confused with zenesis z202 starter

I purchased a Zenesis ZN202-S remote starter since it was on sale for $50. I am a bit confused about the instructions.

On MAIN HARNESS CONNECTOR1-6PIN, here are the instructions:

PIN1 - RED - +BATT 12V input

PIN2 - VIOLET - + IGNITION 1 output

PIN3 - WHITE - + IGNITION 2 output

PIN4 - ORANGE - + BATT 12V input for starter and ACC

PIN5 - BLUE - + ACC (IG/STARTER) output

PIN6 - YELLOW - + STARTER output

How would I connect these wires to my 2004 Mazda6? The wiring on my mazda6 are:

+ 12V CONSTANT WIRE  - BLACK AND BLACK / YELLOW

+ STARTER WIRE - BLACK/ BLUE

+ IGNITION WIRE - BLUE

+ ACCESSORY WIRE - BLACK/ RED

+ SECOND ACCESSORY WIRE - BLACK/ WHITE

+ KEY SENSE WIRE - WHITE/ BLUE

I want to make sure  which wires goes to which so that I wont mess up something. Also can I access the TACHometer wire from the back of the cluster display?

Thanks

Please note that the Zenesis ZN202-S was probably on-sale for a reason... Believe they went out of business.

PIN1 - RED - +BATT 12V input  Black +12V

PIN2 - VIOLET - + IGNITION 1 output   Blue

PIN3 - WHITE - + IGNITION 2 output not used *** could connect to Keysense if the 6 has Factory Alarm

PIN4 - ORANGE - + BATT 12V input 4 starter & ACC      BLACK / YELLOW +12V

PIN5 - BLUE - + ACC (IG/STARTER) output       BLACK/ Red    *** Factory Default is ACC

PIN6 - YELLOW - + STARTER output   BLACK/ Blue

All that still leaves the Mazda's BLACK/ White Accessory2 wire with no power during a remote start.   You
could try it this way ( without the BLACK/ White wire powered during a remote start ) and see if the heater
and A/C work properly during a remote start. If you need the ACC2 wire powered...

The ZN2002-S does not have any easy way to add this support. (You will need the GWR output for the bypass
module.) The best way to power both the Accessory circuits is by using two 30/40 Amp SPDT relays and wiring
them up as per the diagram on Page 18 of this install guide :
Search on "24923" in the Downloads Section
Please note that the ACC output wire in the diagram is Orange but your ZN202-S system has a Blue wire as
the ACC output wire that you will use instead.

For the Tach wire, most wiring guides list the ignition coil wire at the engine. Audiovox has this Tach wire
listed for your car : Tachometer        LIGHT GREEN/ RED (AC)        IN HARNESS AT REAR OF GAUGES

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What do you mean by GWR? I'll be installing the starter without a bypass module by using a spare key. The dealer charges $100 for the bypass immobilzers :(.

The starter kit comes with a relay, do I need just to add 1 extra relay to wire the ACC2 incase I need it?

What will be the easiest way to wire the power doors lock and unlock? Do I need relays too or I can wire it direct? My factory power doors unlock the driver side first on a single press of the button then to open the rest of the doors, I have to press the button twice.

Thanks for your time posting and helping me out.

GWR stands for the R/S signal Ground When Running. Depending on the R/S manufacturer it is also known
as 2nd Status Output and (-) 3rd Ignition. There are many bypass modules available for your car and some
of them are very inexpensive. My favorite is the Directed 1100F which can be found for under $20. Using
a bypass module is much better than leaving a key under the dash.

Never used or seen a Zenesis unit so I don't know what the included relay is for. ( The only install guide I
could find was for the ZN502 system.) Perhaps the relay is for Starter Kill / Anti-Grind. How many pins / wires
does it have?

As for the locks, your car has a one-wire system. I don't believe the Zenesis has built-in lock relays so your
best bet is to get a DEI 451M door lock module. It includes the resistor you will need and will make the install
that much easier. They go for under $10. Installed this way the remote start system will unlock all the doors
with one button push.

The Mazda 6 is not a typical basic install.   You will need to do a lot of reading, research, learning and testing
to get this done without damaging anything.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

GWR stands for the R/S signal Ground When Running. Depending on the R/S manufacturer it is also known
as 2nd Status Output and (-) 3rd Ignition. There are many bypass modules available for your car and some
of them are very inexpensive. My favorite is the Directed 1100F which can be found for under $20. Using
a bypass module is much better than leaving a key under the dash.

Never used or seen a Zenesis unit so I don't know what the included relay is for. ( The only install guide I
could find was for the ZN502 system.) Perhaps the relay is for Starter Kill / Anti-Grind. How many pins / wires
does it have?

As for the locks, your car has a one-wire system. I don't believe the Zenesis has built-in lock relays so your
best bet is to get a DEI 451M door lock module. It includes the resistor you will need and will make the install
that much easier. They go for under $10. Installed this way the remote start system will unlock all the doors
with one button push.

The Mazda 6 is not a typical basic install.   You will need to do a lot of reading, research, learning and testing
to get this done without damaging anything.

---

According to the instructions manual and diagram the relay that comes with the kit indicates START KILL RELAY.

The YELLOW wire comming from the relay socket seat  (PIN 30 of the relay) provided is tapped to mazda6 harness START switch. Is it the STARTER OUTPUT wire BLACK/ BLUE  from my MAzda6?

+ IGNITION 1 OUTPUT VIOLET PIN2 wire goes to PIN 86 of the relay

PIN 6 YELLOW +STARTER OUTPUT wire goes to PIN 87A of the relay

PIN 85 of the relay goes to - START KILL OUTPUT pin of the remote start connector 7

Where is the cheapest store to order DIRECTED 1100F module and DEI 451M? Do I need just 1x DEI 451M to get all the doors to lock and unlock? My mazda6 doesn't factory alarm but it does have a PANIC button on my factory remote.

Thanks again for a very helpfull suggestions and info's.

Yes, only one 451M module needed.

Here in the States, EBay is a good source for those items. Never used EBay.CA, so not sure about listings there. You can also get the 30/40 Amp SPDT Bosch style relay with harness on EBay. Just make sure the item description is "New In Box", "Never opened or used", etc and the seller has a good rating.

The Directed 1100F has been discontinued but is a very good bypass module, OEM'd for Directed by iDatalink. Other good bypass modules for your car are the Key-Override-ALL from Fortin and it's cousin the PKALL from XpressKit and the ADS TBSL KO from iDatalink.

The included relay is a 5 pin relay only if it has Pin 87, too. Not sure if it comes pre-wired. You can use it for the Starter Kill if you want.

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I have 2 12V spare relays and 1.4K resistors, Im thinking of just wiring and soldering 1.4K resistor in between to hook up the DOORS LOCK and UNLOCK. I found this diagram on another Mazda protege forums, I believe this is the same 1 wire door lock system like my 2004 mazda6. I just want you to verify if this diagram will work just fine.

Also, im still confused about the instructions on the Zenesis booklet. On the diagram NEGATIVE ONE-WAY system DOOR LOCKS, It was shown that I have to cut a wire between the FACTORY SWITCH and FACTORY LOCK MODULE. That is also between the RELAY PIN30 and  PIN87A. I am not sure which wire needs to be cut and what colour is it on the module harness. The NEGATIVE ONE-WAY system door locks on Zenesis booklet only showed 1 relay instead of 2 relays like the diagram I posted above. Which one should I follow?

On the STARTER KILL RELAY diagram of Zenesis booklet, I also see another cut the wire instruction. The wire located from the factory harness START going to the MOTOR STARTER needs to be cut. Is it the FACTORY BLACK/ BLUE + STARTER wire from the IGNITION harness?

About DOOR TRIGGERS INPUT, is it important to wire it or I can just ignore wiring it to my stock wires? My install plans are only basic remote start and power doors using just the remote provided by Zenesis. Will the DOOR lights still functions like before If I open the doors?

Again thanks for taking time to help me out here. I really appriciate it.

Sorry for bad scalling of the image.

If you have two relays, you can use them. No need for the 451M module. Yes that relay diagram will work.
Here is a link to another diagram from Bulldog Security ( use the top diagram ) :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/25200__MAZDA%206%20%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf
Your diagram shows a 1.5K resistor but you mentioned the correct 1.4K value. The Zenesis Install guide
is very confusing about door lock circuits. Depending on whether the outputs are (+) or (-) you can wire
up the relays accordingly following the above diagrams.

Yes, if you want Starter Kill, you will cut the car BLACK/ Blue Starter wire at the ignition switch harness and wire
in the relay's two wires. Ignition Switch ( key ) side and Starter Motor ( car ) side is important.

I believe you can leave the door trigger wires not connected as long as your car has an automatic
transmission.   There is an "All door trigger wire" that would make connection easy.
All Door Trigger GREEN/ ORANGE (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL
Door Trigger     GREEN/ Orange (-)    driver kick or door lock module ***
*** The door lock control module is located above the passenger kick panel

Properly installed, everything should work normally with the Factory remotes, etc. The Zenesis system
will give you lock, unlock (all doors) and remote start. Trunk release would require a relay to change
the (+) polarity output to a (-) pulse the car needs.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

If you have two relays, you can use them. No need for the 451M module. Yes that relay diagram will work.
Here is a link to another diagram from Bulldog Security ( use the top diagram ) :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/25200__MAZDA%206%20%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf
Your diagram shows a 1.5K resistor but you mentioned the correct 1.4K value. The Zenesis Install guide
is very confusing about door lock circuits. Depending on whether the outputs are (+) or (-) you can wire
up the relays accordingly following the above diagrams.

Yes, if you want Starter Kill, you will cut the car BLACK/ Blue Starter wire at the ignition switch harness and wire
in the relay's two wires. Ignition Switch ( key ) side and Starter Motor ( car ) side is important.

I believe you can leave the door trigger wires not connected as long as your car has an automatic
transmission.   There is an "All door trigger wire" that would make connection easy.
All Door Trigger GREEN/ ORANGE (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL
Door Trigger     GREEN/ Orange (-)    driver kick or door lock module ***
*** The door lock control module is located above the passenger kick panel

Properly installed, everything should work normally with the Factory remotes, etc. The Zenesis system
will give you lock, unlock (all doors) and remote start. Trunk release would require a relay to change
the (+) polarity output to a (-) pulse the car needs.

---

The Zenesis module has + DOOR TRIGGER INPUT and - DOOR TRIGGER INPUT wires. If I wire directly the mazda6 - GREEN/ ORANGE wire to the - DOOR TRIGGER input of he Zenesis, Do I still have to use those 2 relays  with 1.4K resistor? Just trying to make the install as simple as possible. I don't like the factory double pulse to open all the doors. If I can just use single pulse to open all doors that will be better. I just noticed that the BULDOG diagram you provided the relay PIN 87A is not used but on the Mazda diagram I posted PIN 87A is wired to the 1.4K resistor. Either of these 2 diagrams will work fine? I would also like to verify if theres any wires that I need to cut between the FACTORY DOOR LOCK MODULES and FACTORY DOOR LOCK SWITCH according to the Zenesis instruction diagram.

Thanks

There is a difference between a Door Trigger and a Door Lock . Door triggers are used for monitoring the doors for the alarm portion of the Zenesis system. It has inputs
for either a (+) or (-) trigger, you only need to connect one. Your car has a (-) trigger signal wire so you will use that.

The Door Lock system is a one-wire system. It needs a straight ground for a Unlock and a ground through a 1.4k ohm resistor for a Lock. You will need to use relays and
follow the diagrams posted above. My comment was about not understanding the Zenesis install guide and it's write up concerning the Blue and Green door lock output wires.

The diagram you posted is kinda blurry / sloppy and it does not use Pin 87a either. It just appears that way.

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Soldering is fun!

We had problem after our install. The remote start shuts off after 3-4 secs. We wired the tachometer directly at the sparkplug ignition wire. We didnt install the remote starter kill. Could this be the problem? We also havent hooked up the door locks and unlock because we ran out of time today. We couldnt find the tachometer signal behind the gauge cluster. We checked all pins behind he gauge cluster via multimeter using AC mode. My friend used to measure the tachometer signal voltage on his car by measuring +-5-6 volts.

Did you do the TACH learning procedure? And what about the BYPASS module?  Could you list all of your wiring connections from the Zenesis to the car so we can get a picture of what was done?  Connections soldered, crimped, or t-taps?

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Also, what did you use for a transponder bypass? Any "security" type lights on the dash?

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We did the tach learning procedure several times but we didnt noticed any recognition signal returned by the remote starter. I also noticed that when the engine starts via remote, theres a high pitch whinning sounds comming from the engine. Normal ignition starts doesnt sound like that when we use the keys. Could it be the starter is still engage and spinning with the motor during remote start? We dont have a bypass module yet we used 1 spare key for now. Is the Starter kill really neccessary for this to work? Also we havent wires the doors lock and unlock yet. Ill post later today after we looked at and reviewed our wirings again. Thanks guys.

If you are not getting the confirmation of TACH learn, then something is not connected correctly. What are you connected to?

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx 

Bulldog Security lists TACH wire as   "ANY wire NOT BLACK/ WHITE or any wire with a GREEN/ STRIPE (AC)"

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Its working now. We used another tach source wire. We use a wire that reads 3-4 volts AC. Now time to tidy things up. Thanks for the help guys. It really made the install easier. We just got confused with the tach wire guide.

Anyone knows how to disable the auto start every hour? I noticed that it starts itself every hour and turns off after 10 mins. Theres no instructions in the manual about the auto start timer. Should i connect a thermistor sensor for the temperature or reset to factory default?