Hi
When wiring the Direct electronics universal bypass module # 20402 or 29402. Does it matter which of the two wires from the key are cut and which is spliced ie the Prpl/blk or Wht/blk? There is no indication in the schematic indicating so. Is this because the circuit is basically a loop?
P.S What is a good 12 volt source for the grn/wht wire? Shouldn't it be connected to a fused source? How many amps if so?
Thanks in advance
Have you located your VATS wires in the Century yet? It's been a while since I did one of these, but I
remember them being very thin, delicate, White wires in an Orange tube. You can cut and splice into either
one. They are a real PITA to solder, so try to use a 25W or 40W pencil iron.
As for the +12V power, I usually just connect that to the R/S's main power input wires, after the fuse. The
bypass module does not use very much power. If you want to fuse it, go for 3 or 5 Amps.
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Soldering is fun!
VATS is a fairly simplex system. Those two wires go up into the ignition switch and make contact with the resistor in
the inserted key. I have always used those two thin VATS wires and connected close to the switch itself. Your 29402
bypass module is nothing more than a relay and the correct "dip switch selected" resistor, similar to this Audiovox VATS
bypass diagram : https://documents.audiovox.com/700052.pdf If I remember correctly, there is a security or theft light
on the dash that goes out when the key is inserted and turned to START. The same thing should happen when you
apply chassis ground to the bypass modules' GWR wire and a R/S is initiated & cranks the starter.
If the security light is blinking, the car will not start-up, even with the problem corrected. It's a 4 minute time out.
Directed has a kit ( 652T ) that has the 15 correct resistor values ( ~ $5 ) that you could use with a relay to do the bypass.
If you were installing an alarm system or having issues with the ignition cylinder going bad and putting the car in Tamper
Mode, you could do as the local shop said, just solder in the correct resistor and no more VATS.
Here is a link to more info on the VATS system : https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
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Soldering is fun!
Thanks Kreg
The light bulb just came on
That must be where i have made a mistake by connecting it to the wires past the ignition cylinder vats wires. (where they plug into the harness).
Hopefully the weather will hold out so i can make the necessary changes this weekend.
Thanks again !!!!!!!