Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 5704 issues with remote start f350 diesel

Hi
everyone. I bought an alarm from amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZHFXKU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And with tilt and glass sensor. I also purchased the PKALL module
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001N7RE44/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This all into my 2008 F350 Diesel.

I've got the alarm working. Now I don't mind the delayed reaction to execute. But I'm having a problem remote starting the vehicle. I have everything wired as follows as I have done this before:

h1/1 red const 12v - tap to a const 12v TN/WH BCM
h1/2 black grnd - chassis ground Bk BCM
h1/3 brown siren out - connect to sirens red (black to ground)
h1/4 WHITE/ brown park light isolation wire - not used
h1/5 white park light out - out to parking light
h1/6 orange ground when armed out - not used

Door lock

1 blue out - tap to neg unlock - Pnk/LG
2 empty
3 green - tap to neg lock- Pnk/YL

Aux/shutdown/trigger harness, 24-pin connector

h2/1 pink/white ign/flex relay out - not used
h2/2 BLACK/ white neutral safety input - Run straight to grnd
h2/3 blue white 2nd stat/rear defog out - not used
h2/4 green black oem alarm disarm out - not used
h2/5 RED / white trunk release out - not used
h2/6 green door trigger in - to my all door trigger underneath seat harness

h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW dome light supv out - Opted to not hook this up

h2/8 BROWN / black horn honk - tap to horn
h2/9 dark/blue status out - not used
h2/10 pink ign out - to my ignition 1 along with the one on remote start harness

h2/11 WHITE/ black aux3 out - not used
h2/12 violet door trigger in - not used
h2/13 WHITE/ violet aux1 out - not used
h2/14 violet/black aux2 out - not used
h2/15 ORANGE / black aux4 out - not used
h2/16 brown brake shutdown in - tap to brake wire

h2/17 grey hood pin - not used
h2/18 violet yellow starter out - not used

h2/19 blue instant trigger in - not used

h2/20 grey/black diesel wait to start - not used
h2/21 WHITE/ blue remote start/tt acvt in - not used
h2/22 orange acc out - not used
h2/23 violet/white tach in - not used
h2/24 oem alarm out - not used

remote start 10 pin heavy gauge connector

h3/1 pink ign in/out - DB/LG ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay in - not used
h3/3 orange accessory out - BK/LG - ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out Rd/LB Engine side of starter wire ignition harness

h3/5 green starter in -- key side of cut starter wire

h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM
h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not used
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM

the module was wired as per 2008 F350

any help would be greatly appreciated. Remote start is my task right now. I get a REMOTE START ERROR with nothing happening.

Thanks

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DenKat

Are you getting any flashes from the parking lights to indicate the issue after you try to remote start?

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Boy, those ignition wire colors sure don't look right to me. All the major sources show different ( and consistent ) color listings for your truck. Did you test and verify them with a Digital Multi Meter?

Additionally, the PKALL needs to have a GWR ( Status Output ) connection from the Viper. You listed both H2/9 and H2/3 as "Not Used"...

Did you program the Viper for Auto Trans? Are you going to try to run in Virtual Tach Mode?

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Soldering is fun!

h2/10 pink ign out - to my ignition 1 along with the one on remote start harness BANG!

Don't use it!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie as usual was rather harsh, the reason if you'll stop to think about it is that pink at H3/1 is giving a POS voltage while pink at H2/10 is going to ground.
At the same time.
Also no mention of the neutral safety switch to the black socket, N.B. I just flash some solder over those connections.

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Test before boxing up.

Hi Smokeman..
No I'm not getting any flashes

And to Howie
the pink on the auxilliary harness is negative and obviously other is positive. I`m an did electrical engineering in school and now I'm a General Contractor. So I should know that. LOL. Good call though

AND KREY
I do know how to program the remote to go to automatic. This remote seems
1 have a delayed reaction when arming
and
2 delayed reaction when entering commands in options
Either way. How do you change to automatic

That particular pink is not being used in reference to Howie's comment. The issue here is I had copied and pasted someones listing and edited to make mine. I apologize. But here is exactly what I have happening:

h1/1 red const 12v - tap to a const 12v which is in ignition harness
h1/2 black grnd - chassis ground Bk BCM
h1/3 brown siren out - connect to sirens red (black to ground)
h1/4 WHITE/ brown park light isolation wire - not used
h1/5 white park light out - out to parking light
h1/6 orange ground when armed out - not used

Door lock (THESE ARE TESTED AND WORK)

1 blue out - tap to neg unlock - Pnk/LG
2 empty
3 green - tap to neg lock- Pnk/YL

Aux/shutdown/trigger harness, 24-pin connector

h2/1 pink/white ign/flex relay out - not used
h2/2 BLACK/ white neutral safety input - Run straight to grnd
h2/3 blue white 2nd stat/rear defog out - not used
h2/4 green black oem alarm disarm out - TO my disarm on truck
h2/5 RED / white trunk release out - not used
h2/6 green door trigger in - NOT used. I have a + door trigger in F350 as used below

h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW dome light supv out - to my dome light which is GR/BLUE

h2/8 BROWN / black horn honk - tap to horn
h2/9 dark/blue status out - not used
h2/10 pink ign out - not used

h2/11 WHITE/ black aux3 out - not used
h2/12 violet door trigger in - to door trigger drivers kick panel (I have + in my truck)
h2/13 WHITE/ violet aux1 out - not used
h2/14 violet/black aux2 out - not used
h2/15 ORANGE / black aux4 out - not used
h2/16 brown brake shutdown in - tap to brake wire

h2/17 grey hood pin - not used
h2/18 violet yellow starter out - not used

h2/19 blue instant trigger in - not used

h2/20 grey/black diesel wait to start - not used
h2/21 WHITE/ blue remote start/tt acvt in - not used
h2/22 orange acc out - not used
h2/23 violet/white tach in - to my tach in drivers side above kick panel
h2/24 oem alarm out - not used

remote start 10 pin heavy gauge connector

h3/1 pink ign in/out - DB/LG ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay in - not used
h3/3 orange accessory out - BK/LG - ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out Rd/LB Engine side of starter wire ignition harness

h3/5 green starter in -- key side of cut starter wire

h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM
h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not used
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM

AS FOR PKALL (These I connected to same harness in ignition . ie ones going through transponder or PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM)

RX (PURPLE / WHite) - To my RX (VIOLET/GREY)
TX (Yellow/Black) - To my TX (Yellow/Orange)
Ground while running (BLACK/ White) - To my ground black in ignition
Ignition (Pink) - to my ignition wire (Blue gray)

MY CONFUSION is here too. Apparently RX and TX could be reversed and second some people are saying this Ignition and ground should not go to this harness. Is this true

I hope this explains well. Thanks folks alot for your help

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DenKat

Sorry for typos I quickly typed this.. eg. KREG instead of KREY
thanks guys

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DenKat

The Blue/White wire from the PKALL should be connected to the Vipers' H2/9 Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire.
The PKALL Pink wire can go to the Viper H3/1 Pink wire, which continues on to the truck ignition harness.

Here is your listing :
h3/1 pink ign in/out - DB/LG ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay in - not used
h3/3 orange accessory out - BK/LG - ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out Rd/LB Engine side of starter wire ignition harness
h3/5 green starter in -- key side of cut starter wire
h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM
h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not used
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM

I think we are talking about a 2008 Ford F350. Here is how it should go according to ReadyRemote :
(https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Ford&model=F350 )
h3/1 pink ign in/out -         WHITE/ Orange @ ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay       Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/3 orange accessory out -       BROWN / Yellow or Yellow/Orange + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7 ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out        Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    Engine side of cut starter wire
h3/5 green starter in -- Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    key side of cut starter wire
h3/6 red ign in -              Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/7 pink/white ign2 - set to ACC2        PURPLE / Green @ ignition harness
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in -      not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in -     Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1

Definitely want to test / verify these wires.

Additionally, I would strongly recommend using the H2/17 grey hood pin wire with the hood pin supplied in the Viper kit.
It is a very good safety measure.

Can't help with the Viper programming via the remotes. I took the easy way out and purchased a BitWriter.

Think that truck has Ford's infamous N.C. Door Triggers...

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Soldering is fun!

KREG
man you are smart i can tell. Even the info you`ve given me just gives me. Its too bad we don`t have the wiring available to some of us who can actually attack this project. I`m in the business of time and I appreciate your time a lot.

Now the BitWriter would have been good to have. I`ll get my buddy who works at alarm shop to bring that with him.

Question, should I be able to remote start the vehicle with key in assuming pkall is not programmed? I'm definitely going to try your suggestions and see how the go.

As far as the main harness and aux harness of 5704, did they seem familiar to you?

Thanks a lot man

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DenKat

One other thing is why isn't there any place to tell us where the TX and RX wires are on our cars. In my case the 2008 Ford F350. I had to ask someone on one of the forums for that. Or is that a secret for dealers and security folks. LOL.

I actually saw those wires going into the anti theft system and presumed that they were along with a ground and ignition (4 pin harness)

This I'm just curious

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DenKat

DenKat, as per your last question, look up Xpresskit and go to your vehicle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am not a big Viper person. The 570x series has had some connector changes over the years. Here is a link to the full 5704
install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1204 Compare it to your unit. Basically the wire name,
function and color remain the same, even if they changed the pin location.

While the transponder wire info isn't a secret, they just don't try to make it easy for people to find. Your best bet is
becoming familiar with the three major companies ( Fortin, iDatalink and Directed XpressKit ) and their bypass offerings.
Each has a WEB site where anyone can look up your vehicle and then download the specific recommended bypass
module's install guide. It is amazing all the info you can get that way. I have found that the guides from iDatalink are
the most accurate / helpful. While the wiring diagrams contained are specific to their bypass module, the vehicle wire
info / diagrams ( and sometimes photo's ) can be used with any bypass module needing the same vehicle connections.

Here is a link to XpressKit : https://www.xpresskit.com/
Here is a link to Fortin : https://ifar.ca/en/
Here is a link to ADS iDatalink : https://www.idatalink.com/support

While it is a big learning curve at first, if you want to gain knowledge and be prepared, the time spent researching
your vehicle will pay big dividends. Nothing like a smooth, no surprises, clean install that works right the first time.

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Soldering is fun!

Here is the transponder info from iDatalink :
F-Series Super Duty 2008-10 TX Pin 3 Yellow/Orange RX Pin 4 Violet/Gray
Should be a Black 4 Pin Plug found at the ignition switch.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks howie II and Kreg

it worked. Damn vehicle wiring. And ford double wires. What I mean is in the same area putting two different wires same colour different purpose. Now once again obviously my fault, I should have seen where where wire was going and determined. But all in all it works.

Actually PKALL works farely well with 5704 and Ford F350 for that matter. Just need to know the truck wire situation

I wish i had spoken to you guys before purchasing. In your opinion guys which are your favourite or what you think are your favourite combinations for ALARM Security Remote Manufactures with features ofcourse? Also favourite Bypass module brand

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DenKat

Looking at some modules apparently Evo-ALL from Fortin looks good. What do you think

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DenKat

All the above modules are good, I stick with DB-ALL 'cause it's all we have in the UK.
"And ford double wires."
Try a UK model early Transit Connect (you got the Mk ll) driver side floor loom all door triggers blue/black, there are 4 and one of them is the one you want.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I like Compustar and iDatalink. In bypass modules, Fortin is a very close second, almost neck and neck with iDatalink.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi guys sorry to bother you again. So I was half way there

Everything with the alarm works but the remote start is still weird.

So now when I click remote start it goes to ignition and doesn't start. I wired it as we spoke about in the previous posts. Secondly I tried even with the key in and it indicates that it goes to ignition but it doesn't crank

Kreg here is our previous post

Here is your listing :
h3/1 pink ign in/out - DB/LG ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay in - not used
h3/3 orange accessory out - BK/LG - ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out Rd/LB Engine side of starter wire ignition harness
h3/5 green starter in -- key side of cut starter wire
h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM
h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not used
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM

I think we are talking about a 2008 Ford F350. Here is how it should go according to ReadyRemote :
( https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Ford&model=F350 )
h3/1 pink ign in/out -    WHITE/ Orange @ ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay       Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/3 orange accessory out -    BROWN / Yellow or Yellow/Orange + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7 ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out   Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    Engine side of cut starter wire
h3/5 green starter in -- Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    key side of cut starter wire
h3/6 red ign in -        Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/7 pink/white ign2 - set to ACC2        PURPLE / Green @ ignition harness
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in -   not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1

Definitely want to test / verify these wires.

Additionally, I would strongly recommend using the H2/17 grey hood pin wire with the hood pin supplied in the Viper kit.
It is a very good safety measure.

Can't help with the Viper programming via the remotes. I took the easy way out and purchased a BitWriter.

Think that truck has Ford's infamous N.C. Door Triggers...

Like I said even with key in it doesn't crank. I do know I got the right blue/white wire in the ignition and I tested it cause when I disconnect the alarm the car doesn't start. What is stopping it from not cranking

Please help

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DenKat

Also I did change remote to work on automatic transmission and not manual

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DenKat

Does the Viper give any type of error code? ( See Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics in the install guide.)

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Soldering is fun!

Have you got or shorted across that stupid two wire flick switch with the black plug, goes between H1 and door lock white plug?
Also BLACK/ white H2? Gone to ground with that one?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

On viper remote it says it has started. No error code.
Other thing is when I physically start truck with key and click remote start. It works fine and assumes it has started. I remove key and it stays on. Obviously at this point I can shut down truck from remote. Or it times out after the 12 minutes

Its just not going into cranking position

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DenKat

Howie II. The BLACK/ White H2/2 is neutral safety which I have going to chassis ground. and if its it the black on the 6pin harness you are talking aboiut H1/2, it also is going to chassis ground.

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DenKat

I'm just assuming there's an error in my remote start harness 10pin. What do you think

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DenKat

one more thing. I set the time delay for 15 seconds. So it gets into the ignition on stage waits 15 seconds obliviously for glow light to go off. then sits quietly doing nothing. After the 15seconds is complete and shuts off and tries again.

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DenKat

Probably a silly question but have you programmed for and set tach?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

h3/1 pink ign in/out -      WHITE/ Orange @ ignition harness
h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay        Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/3 orange accessory out -      BROWN / Yellow or Yellow/Orange + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7 ignition harness
h3/4 violet start out        Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    Engine side of cut starter wire
h3/5 green starter in -- Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    key side of cut starter wire
h3/6 red ign in - Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1
h3/7 pink/white ign2 - set to ACC2        PURPLE / Green @ ignition harness
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in -     not used
h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in -    Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1

Well, we could breakout the trusty DMM and do some checking. On the H3 harness, the three fused wires, Red, RED / White
and RED / Black should all show constant +12v power. Verify that you see this voltage on both side of the fuse or right at the
H3 connector.

While you have already done this, connect the DMM to the Viper H3/1 Pink wire. Insert the ignition key and turn to ON. Verify
+12V. Move the DMM Red probe to the H3/3 Orange wire and verify +12V. Rotate the key briefly to START and verify that the
voltage drops. Do the same with the H3/7 Pink/White wire. Also double check that the Viper Flex Relay is programmed to
ACC2. Finally move the DMM Red test lead to the Violet and verify that is only shows +12V when the ignition key is at the
START position. All of this will verify the trucks ignition wires and the Vipers connections to those wires.

Next verify the Vipers Tach signal input. Also, perform the Viper Tach Learn process and verify proper results.

If you have the Viper set to a Fixed 15 second Diesel delay, use the DMM to verify the Vipers outputs. Press remote start
and after a few seconds the Viper should supply power to the IGN, ACC1 and ACC2 output wires. Check with the DMM. At
the end of the 15 second delay, have the DMM Red test lead on the Viper H3/4 Violet wire to see if the Viper outputs +12V.

Viper programming :
Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2       Automatic Transmission
Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4       Tach Mode
Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2        Flex Relay = ACC2
Menu 3, Item 9, Option 2        Fixed 15 Second Diesel Delay

While we haven't spent too much time on the PKALL bypass module, now would be a good time to review those connections.
PKALL Destination
PURPLE / White   RX            F350 transponder plug, Pin 4 Violet/Gray
Yellow/Black   TX             F350 transponder plug, Pin 3 Yellow/Orange
Blue/White      GWR        Viper, H2/9 dark/blue status out         *** Very Important
Pink     IGN           Viper, H3/1 Pink ( which also goes to F350 Ignition WHITE/ Orange )

Red +12V Viper, H1/1 Red
Black Ground Viper, H1/2 Black

If you already preformed the PKALL programming procedure successfully, you don't want to do it again.

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Soldering is fun!

Just as u sent this message I was ony way to parts store. I brought out dmm and it turned out black red wire fuse was out. Haven't got pkall programmed yet. So it'll get back to u when I get fuse. Thanks Kreg

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DenKat

Hey Kreg. So yws it was fuse. Ok. That's fixed. So when I keep key in ignition and remote start it starts after my wait to start setup.
Now onto programming. Wires are hooked up as we spoke before and still same. But pkall light still stays full red.

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DenKat

So on the pkall should I not hook up the green and black . Ie key sense and ground respectively?

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DenKat

This is the PKALL install guide I'm going by for your 2008 Ford F350 :
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6065&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

Re : PLALL Green and Black wires. They are not shown on the diagram so I would not connect them.

Remember that you will need two Factory ignition keys to program the PKALL. If one of the two keys is a copy / clone
of the other, it won't work. ( Be like using the same key twice. )

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Soldering is fun!

Yes I have been through that process so many times. .I also switched the RX and TX as apparently they r reversed. Didn't work either. Hmmm wonder what it could be
.

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DenKat

and yes I have two separate keys. Just gpt a new key programmed from ford that I paid $140 for last week
So they r not clones

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DenKat

What wires are you using for the 12 volt and ground on the PKALL?

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I'm using pink and blue/white respectively. they are going to my viper 5704 Pink and Dark blue status output wires

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DenKat

And its a D2D connection I'm doing btw.. Thanks

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DenKat

Is the D2D plugged into the correct port on the 5704? Does the LED light up as described in step 3 of the programming?

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Yes sir it does. I went through that entire process 1000 or maybe less times. LOL and no.

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DenKat

I'm contemplating getting a new module like Fortin Evo-all

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DenKat

It has been my experience with Fords, that I have found and connected to the wrong set of wires for TX and RX. Are your using the wires in the bundle along the steering column? There might be a different set of wires the same color as the TX and RX. See if that might be the case.
I have made that mistake. Would have sworn I had the right wires, tried to program the module a million times,(not really). Discovered my mistake, connected to the correct wires, programmed correctly on the attempt.
Just a thought.

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Hmmm. I'll double check. I respect your experience. But as far as I remember. The 4 pin black plug going into the transponder. And you are right I do remember seeing some other wires very similar going into the steering wheel.

I'll check and keep you posted tomorrow morning

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DenKat

Assuming that you are following the programming steps shown in the PKALL installation guide and everything is
responding correctly through Step 7, try doing Step 8b for a manual transmission. This sometimes works for me.

Timing is critical throughout this process. Steps 1 - 3 prepare the PKALL for programming. Steps 4 - 7 set-up the Ford
PATS system to accept another transponder key. If you had purchased a blank transponder key & had it cut for your
ignition switch cylinder, Step 8 would be insert new key and turn it to ON. The Security Light should come on for three
seconds and go off, indicating successful programming.

As far as another bypass module, all of them are pretty much similar in programming ( with the exception of some that
do a clone process using only one Factory key ). My favorite is the Directed 1100F bypass module. They are OEM'd by
ADS iDatalink for Directed, very reliable and can usually be found for under $20. The ADS TBSL KO is another good
module and it will indicate reversed RX / TX wires during programming.

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Soldering is fun!

apparently it says when the light stays on in the beginning of the process it hasn't been programmed. It has a software number 4. something and hardaware number of 2. something.

And it also said if light stays on at end. Start again.
The crazy thing here in canada, I just can't go buy a bypass module some where. everything is impossible to get, no offence to anyone. It's frustrating.

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DenKat

You know what's funny Kreg. After step 7 on the actual manual that came with the module. It says hold programming button till light flashes 10 times and then remote start

But on the link from website, after step 7 you go to 8b like you said and then it flashes on it own. Wow. I missed that. I'm going to try that now. I assumed that the programming in my manual was identical to the one on the website for the 2008 F350. WOw. I'll let you know shortly

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DenKat

Think HW Ver 2 and Firmware Ver 4.09 is current.
Yes, follow the newer install guide and see if that helps.

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Soldering is fun!

Hey Kreg.

So I followed the new install guide and no. also switched my tx and rx with the same process.

if you look at the newer guide online it seems that step 2 and 3 are reversed cause the led does not come on till you insert 4 pin connector 1 as they call it. I`m completely stumped now

Total confusion. I posted something online here to see if people with transponders on F350 were having similar issue with PKall. Most people seem to be doing pkall with other cars but not an F350. I wonder if it really works for that truck

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DenKat

Maybe I should go with your previous advice and go with the bypass modules you suggested.

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DenKat

Any luck on seeing a different pair of wires, same color?

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The only other thing I can think of ( besides Mr. Smoke's suggestion about the transponder connector / wires ) is that you are going with the D2D cable between the PKALL and the Viper. I would cut the harness and just connect the Blue* to +12V and the Black to Chassis Ground as shown in the W2W diagram. Probably won't change anything but it will eliminate any possible issues. I always cut that harness and hardwire the power and ground.

* The wire colors on the 4 Pin harness can vary, go by connector pin position. Thanks, Mr. Smoke! posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

I check smokeman. Just like Kreg was saying the 4 pin black harness that's connected to the transponder is the one I fed off of. This is all strange

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DenKat

It can be frustrating. Ford's are finicky. It's nice to have the luxury of spare bypass modules. Recently I've enjoyed using iDatalink's KLON process with some Ford's that the owner only had one key. Quick and painless. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Most definetly agree. Not having spare bypass to see what is happening
I might go for the fortin evo all and get its link updater too

Or the idatalinks you have mentioned
Or im considering the new ones with cards.
Having said that I probably should have got an excalibur 1950 or 2050 and used the card system.
I called Dei and the lady said we don't do suppport for viper. I was like wth. Just a joke.
Returning this cheap pkall bypass is actually going to be more of a pain in the ass than anything else. Just can't stand bad service

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DenKat

But im stuck wirh the viper 5704 so I will just get q generic module thwt works. . Tha alarm stores here carry evo all and dball. But I need something consumer friendly and evo all might be it

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DenKat

The Viper 5704 is a good system. The PKALL should work as a bypass to the Ford PATS3 immobilizer system. While it is a very remote possibility, the Ford PATS3 immobilizer system has a limit on the number of transponder chips that can be programmed to the system. It is either 8 or 10. When you reach that limit, you can no longer add any more keys ( or a typical bypass module ). If you just had the dealer add another key for $140, they should have mentioned if you were at or near the limit so this is probably not the case.

The Fortin EVO-ALL is a nice module, albeit slightly over-kill for your application. Vehicle programming is more involved than a basic PATS3 bypass module, like the ADS TBSL KO. Having the Fortin FlashLink USB programming cable is a nice $65 luxury but not necessary if you get the module flashed with the recommended firmware and have two working, non-clone keys. Having the FlashLink cable will allow bypass to vehicle programming using only one key and their DCryptor process. If you plan on more R/S installs, the FlashLink cable could be a wise investment.

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Soldering is fun!

does this ADS TBSL KO come preprogrammed or I have to ask them to do it. And you are right. The reviews on the 5704 are quite good. I just need to bypass the PATS

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DenKat

Yes. The ADS TBSL KO is in the Solo series and should come already flashed. You will have to go W2W between the Viper and the bypass module as the ADS TBSL KO does not come flashed for Vipers ( DBI ) D2D comm protocol. Just run the three dashed lines in the install diagram.

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Soldering is fun!

Never had an 04 or DB-ALL go wrong when it's correctly flashed and programmed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey guys, I'm still not giving up. Some other people are programming Fords with it.
So 1 thing I'm thinking is the 2 keys I have need to be erased maybe? I heard it worked for someone
Kreg you also mentioned going the hard wire way

On the site and instructions.
https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=null&year=2008&make=Ford&model=F350&ps=1&s=0&c=0

If you click on install guide, it says cut off entire plug. And connect Blue to 12V and Black to ground. What about the white and red and other wires on the 6 pin plug

I'm assuming the white and red continue between alarm and pkall, but what what of 6 pin plug. is it same?

Thanks

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DenKat

I was told by directed that my pkall since light is still is not flashing in the beginning of installation, it has not been programmed at all. That's why I'm not giving up on it. I'll confirm with Ford about if those are the last keys

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DenKat

Going W2W with the PKALL is pretty straight forward. The 6 Pin plug and its' four wire connections remain the same. You will cut the
4 Pin D2D harness and make two connections, one to constant +12V DC power and the other to Chassis Ground. As previously mentioned,
the wire colors inside the D2D harness can vary. If your harness is the same a the illustration, great. If not, go by the pin location. I
typically make these connections to the R/S's power and ground wires.

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Soldering is fun!

Hey Kreg,
One question for you. when I bought the truck. I received a key with an S on it which apparently is 40 bit key

Before installing this new system,like I told you before I picked up a new key from Ford. the key had an SA on it which is apparently a 80 bit key.

Now both keys work fine. Both start truck fine. Do you think that this could be an issue with the pkall programming?

Thanks

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DenKat

Or if anyone has a sure answer please let me know

Thanks

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DenKat

The "SA" is thought of as an "80" bit key and will work as an "80" bit key, however it can be programmed as a "40" bit key to an older "40" bit system and will work correctly ( downward compatible ). Not sure how the PKALL will respond to this situation, never came across it before. I believe it will respond and program normally because the PKALL is "watching" the RX & TX wires. Too bad you're not closer. I'd love to try an iDatalink module on your truck.

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Soldering is fun!

Once again thanks a lot man. It was fine... Here is a blog I found to test for 40 bit or 80 bit

Understanding the Difference Between a Ford 80 Bit & a 40 Bit

Ford introduced an 80-bit encryption in late 2009 and this caused a lot of confusion as to which models it was available
on. The main question is which models use the 80 and which use the old 40 bit?
Contrary to popular belief, the SA marking on the key does NOT indicate a vehicle uses 80-bit encryption. In reality, the
SA marking indicates that the key is 80-bit compatible, but the vehicle itself could still be using 40-bit encryption.
What does it mean?
It means that Ford did in fact release SA keys equipped with an 80-bit transponder, but the reality is that the same
transponder can also be used in 40-bit vehicle, making it backward compatible with older vehicles. Consequently, if you
see an SA key it is important that you do not automatically assume it is an 80-bit type. It all depends on the vehicle, not
the key.
How do I Differentiate Between the 40 & 80 Bit?
To determine which encryption type you are dealing with, you must test pin 1 at the 4-pin IMMO connector on the key
barrel for the following conditions to determine if it is 40 or 80-bit type.

An
80-bit vehicle should provide the following values:
§

NO key in barrel: 0v
§

Key in barrel with IGN OFF: (+) 12v
§

Key in barrel with IGN ON: (+) 12v
An

40-bit vehicle should provide the following values:
§

NO key in barrel: 0v
§

Key in barrel with IGN OFF: 0v
§Key in barrel with IGN ON: (+) 12v

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DenKat