VW Polo 2005 alarm wiring info

Good day.does anyone have the alarm wiring info on this car.can't find it anywhere on the net.Howie what is this vehicle called in the UK?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

From memory:-
12V+ Red Body control under dash, driver side, look up and slide out for access.
Ign. Black steering column. Secondary at body control for ign. sense.
Starter, RED / black same position
Earth/Ground adjacent grounding point, 10mm bolt, brown wire on steering column. Top cowl pulls off.
Hatch trigger BROWN / black body control.
Hood trigger BROWN / red at above OR loom suspension top right hand side BLACK/ green, don't confuse it with same colour right hand indicator wire in same loom.
Door triggers, either two or 4 at body control, can't remember the colours so test.
Use a test light, clip to 12V+ probe end to each wire, light will go out as soon as door is shut.
Problem:- Look at DEI 1076 diagram on this site you need to block diode as well as diode separate the door lights. Alternative, go to switched ground at dome(courtesy ) light will go to earth and stay NEG for 1 min after door shut or until vehicle is locked.
Indicators, left = BLACK/ white, right = BLACK/ green at body control.
Lock unlock, thin blue/white in fabric loom at top of driver kick panel going into door.
NEG to lock, NEG to unlock via a 1k ohm resistor. NOTE:- If you have internal relay control of locks, i.e. 5 or 6 wires then do as above. If only 2 you'll need a relay on the unlock (resistor) wire to overcome the resistor (2 wire outputs don't have the current capacity). Extending lock time will bring up the windows (comfort or total close). If that doesn't work you have to go into the driver's door and find the same colour wire.
Above is also known as 1 (or single) wire multiplex.
Remember to test everything before hand.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Notes if 1K ohm resistor fails, try 180 ohm, it varied.
Also Directechs says BROWN / grey for hatch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Look at this:-
vw_polo_03_on..png
To test lock/unlock, ground the wire (with the door's rear latch pulled over, this will lock the vehicle.
Then, ground same wire via 180 ohm. This should unlock, if not try a 1 K ohm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks a lot Howie!just something I would like to know,the resistors do it have to be exactly 1K or 180K resistors.and what could happen if the resistor was not on the unlock wire,just for my own interest.yes I do have on board relays 6wires,so that's also a bonus for me.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

20% error but those are standard values, any electronics store/TV repair will have them, 1/4 watt.
If not on unlock wire it won't unlock.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have both resistors and I will use it. so its not that the module can get damaged due to using no resistors for unlock?don't wory I will use it,I always just like to know the other side.thanks again.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

No, no damage, it just won't unlock.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do you perhaps know the the park wire color?my alarm has a park output wire instead of indicators.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Grey etc. look and test at the light switch....BUT if POS output use 2 X 1N5404 diodes, band away from alarm,....again but single light output says piece of rubbish alarm!
Quicker and easier to diode to existing indicators than remove the lighting switch.
Doing the p/lights is cheating and frankly not acceptable.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ill tackle the indictors with diodes then lol.you say indicators are the way to go,ill remember that.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

We are behind here with high quality alarm systems.the ones we use here is autowatch,there is a lot others that has indicator outputs,but without onboard relays.stuff such as remote start is also not popular here in SA.I wish we could have Viper,Clifford and other high quality systems here,but ya.I appreciate your information,effort and time sharing the info on this vehicle.thanks again.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Hi Howie.tell me,isit safe to use a DMM to check for contuinty in a wire eg.I want to make most of my connections at the fuse box,touching one prob where I have tested and one probe where I will be connecting,using the beep sound to see if I have the same wire.if I put the DMM to beep mode and test its leads with a other DMM it gives me 3V.that's the reason why I am asking if its safe,I don't want to damage any Microprocessors I am trieng Techniques to make my installtions Quicker,and using less wires.the question is not specific for the above vehicle,I didn't want to open another thread as we already had a conversation with testing equipment.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Yes but not airbag wiring which is usually in a yellow clad loom.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok,so its so sensitive that the airbag activates?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Can be, NEVER take the chance.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

NO,ill never,just wanted to know.Thanks a lot,enjoy the rest of your day.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Good day Howie! Hope you doing well.so I got time today to do the installation,got everything right,thanks a lot for the info.just 2 problems now.My friend is telling me the alarm gives false alarms and after he arms and goes back later the doors are still locked but leds are not flashing.I have never had such problem before.but when he opens the door and arms it again,it works fine.

This is where I got my wires
12V constant there's 2 at ignition barrel,I used one,test 12V when everything is off.
Ignition (your info)
I've mounted a Bonnet switch as there was no switch.
Hatch (your info)
Lock/unlock wire (your info exactly as you explained,it worked with a 1k resistor)
Drivers switch does not work with latch,it only works with c/locking.when you unlock with with key in drivers door switch,it sends a neg pulse to a wire at loom coming from drivers door.other3 passenger doors I got at the bcm.the dome light has a delay,think its like 30sec.the door wires at bcm I tested with a test light,clamp on 12V and probe each wire.With the multimeter I have done the same with black probe on the wire I'm testing.with door closed it gives me 8,5V when door is opend 12V.it doesn't go to 0 when the door is closed even if the light goes of.that's the only wires at the bcm that I got that's working with the doors.before he left evrything worked properly with no false alarms.any advice,I will check the bonnet switch tomorrow.the domelight doesn't come on with door on drivers side,only with unlock.the rest comes on with doors.I have diode the driver door switch wire seperate from the others,the other 3 doors I have put together as there's no light for doors on the instrument panel.thanks in advance.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Look at DEI 1076 diagram, on this site under Downloads/Manuals section.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Cut wires going to BCM with anode of diode facing BCM to keep away negative backfeed,then door wire from alarm diodes with cathode facing to BCM wires.thanks.so there's no power at ignition that disapears after a while?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

No, but I take power from red at BCM, also you need to find those individual door triggers at the BCM and apply 1076 to ALL of them. The BCM wakes up every 20-30 minutes and sends out a testing spike triggering your alarm. Do All of the door triggers, boot and bonnet, not the courtesy lights.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie! Thanks a lot,I have done what you said,everything works superior now.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.