I am developing an automatic door lock circuit for my Mazda6. My wife’s VW will automatically lock the doors at 8 mph and I would like the same functionality in my Mazda. A coworker and I have developed a simple circuit that will lock the doors “n” number of seconds after an event. This event is currently planed to be using the reverse gear, or simply passing through the reverse position on the way to drive. An alternate event would be releasing the break petal. The circuit will only lock once, (i.e. not multiple times when ever you press the breaks or shift past reverse). The circuit will work for both Automatic and Standard transmissions. Power draw will be minimal, as we are not planning on switching the current to the door solenoids, only the control signal.
An alternate idea is to use a PIC and actually lock the doors based on a RMPs value, but we want to keep the circuit simple, easy to build and cheep.
If you are able to help me with the following information I will be happy to send you a prototype for testing. The prototype will be complete and mounted on an etched and tinned circuit board. (It will have a variable resistor, to adjust the lock time to your preference).
I am asking for the following information for the 2003 Mazda 6s:
Color Code and Location of:
the door lock circuit (all wires and best location to tap),
reverse lamp circuit from the auto transmission (and standard),
tachometer lead (for the alternate version),
a power lead that is only hot when the key is in the on position.
Serious replies and inquiries only please. I have already seen someone post the old 626 information for the 2003 Mazda 6.
Thank you,
Andy-
zebadoba -- at -- hotmail -- dot-- com
thats a cool idea, I would probably go with the PIC although thats a good amount of work with the programming and such but really cuts down on discrete components. I cant really help with the 2003 mazda, but i wouldent mind looking at the circuit just cause it sounds interesting. The PCB is a good idea, really cuts down those point to point connections. figured i would post a pic of the most recent board i made just because i found the pic on this computer 
Ohhhh double sided! Do you use a photofab or iron on resist method? I discovered how wonderful the photofab is.
The PIC way would only reduce the count parts by 2 or 3 items, but then the PIC will cost more and even with free code, you have to program it. I am aiming for the board to be no bigger than 2" by 2". We shall see.
Andy-
That one was done with iron-on, i was really impressed at how well it turned out, first time i ever used the stuff. I have never tried photo resist methods, i was going to but i figured i would give the iron-on a try, i think im stickin with the iron on just because i dont have to buy all the resists and developers and such, plus i have a whole bunch of double sided copper clad that isnt pre-sensitized.
Yea you might be better off without the PIC if its only gonna save 2 to 3 parts, you gonna make it doule sided?