2003 Toyota Corolla Alarm/Remote Start Wiring

Hi

I looking for wiring diagrams for 2003 Toyota Corolla. Wires are different  than 2002 Corolla.

Thanks

Paul

|              12V|white & black       |+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|red                 |+  |ignition harness            |
|   SECOND STARTER|                    |   |                            |
|         IGNITION|BLACK / YELLOW        |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|BLACK/ white         |+  |ignition harness            |
|   THIRD IGNITION|                    |   |                            |
|        ACCESSORY|blue/red            |+  |ignition harness            |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|                    |   |                            |
|       POWER LOCK|green *1            |-  |passenger kick panel        |
|     POWER UNLOCK|blue/black *1       |-  |passenger kick panel        |
|       LOCK MOTOR|blue                |   |driver kick, door harness   |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|red                 |   |driver kick, door harness   |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|red                 |   |driver kick, harness to rear|
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green               |   |driver kick panel           |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|GREEN / WHITE         |   |headlight switch            |
|       HEADLIGHTS|red                 |-  |headlight switch            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|RED / yellow          |-  |driver kick panel           |
| DOME SUPERVISION|comes on with unlock|   |                            |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|RED / white           |-  |light in trunk              |
|         HOOD PIN|                    |   |                            |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|                    |   |                            |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|                    |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|                    |   |                            |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|                    |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|*2                  |   |ignition coils              |
|      SPEED SENSE|                    |   |                            |
|       BRAKE WIRE|GREEN / WHITE         |+  |brake pedal switch          |
|     HORN TRIGGER|GREEN / WHITE         |-  |steering column             |

Notes:
*1 These are the passenger key cylinder wires. Meter the wires while turning the key in the passenger door.  *2 Go to any one of the ignition coils under the black motor cover and use RED / blue, YELLOW /GREEN, gray, or white.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hi Chis !

I want install alarm, remote start and keyless entry with Carbine Start2 - Plus. What triks You now?

Please and Thank You.

Paul

Firstly, https://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000870 here's a writeup I did when these cars first came out, including pictures too.  Now that I've done more, I have a few things to add.

Tachometer:  Remove the one black plastic "screw" from the instrument cluster trim, and then remove the "insert" that the "screw" was in, and then remove the black frame around the cluster.  You'll see a plug at the top of the cluster, with the wires going upward.  Tach is the black wire that's all the way to the left. 

TACH NOTE:  Now that winter's here, I've had a few Camrys (but not Corollas) come back that won't successfully remote start when cold.  The engine hits 2200 RPM when first started during the cold, and this triggers the over-rev protection sometimes.  Just make sure your units overrev protection doesn't kick in too early.  If it does, hold the gas just a tiny bit with your foot, and then reprogram tach at the same time.

DOOR TRIGGER NOTES:  On all models, the RED / yellow in the driver's running board beats the delay, and accepts domelight supervision.  The RED / white at the cluster, just to the right of the tach wire, beats the delay and accepts domelight supervision.  The RED / white at the dash dimmer switch IS affected by the delay, and accepts domelight supervision.  (But, only the upscale LE has factory domelight delay--the stripper models don't.)

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION NOTES:  Notice that the dash dimmer includes a position that disables the domelight altogether.  You can choose to do your domelight supervision either before or after this switch.  The RED / black from the switch will supervise the domelight ALL the time, whether your customer wants it or not.  If you use any of the three door trigger locations mentioned above, your customer can still 100% disable all domelight activity by moving this switch to "off."

All of the domelight wires mentioned are high-current; you'll have to use a relay to power them.  I even found the wire coming from just the driver's doorpin switch, but this is high-current too.

The Corolla LE (the one with woodgrain) has factory domelight supervision, which comes on when the correct unlock wire is energized.  However, it isn't going to come on when the engine is running under remote start, so you may want to add your own aftermarket supervision anyway.

PARKING AND BRAKE WIRES:  The + parking light wire (green) can be found at the dash dimmer switch, or in the driver's running board.  The GREEN / WHITE brake wire is in the running board too. 

 If doing remote start, or alarm/remote start combo, I think it makes sense to bundle your door trigger/park/brake wires together, and run them all to the driver's running board for a simple install.  On the other hand, if you're doing alarm-only on a stripper model, bundle the door trigger/parklamp wires together, and run them both to the dimmer switch and attach there.

REMOTE START NOTE:  The BLACK / YELLOW second accessory wire powers up the climate controls.  The blue/red accessory wire does the radio, and is not necessary for remote start.  Also, the white constant wire is tiny---I always tie all my constant wires into the car's big black constant wire.

DOOR LOCK NOTES:  The green wire in either kick panel, which tests off the door key cylinder, will lock the doors.  If you want two-step unlocking, use the blue / YELLOW in the driver's kick.  If you want single-step unlocking, look for the blue/black in the passenger's kick, although I've never had to.

Hey Chris !!!

You can write books about installing. Instructions and pictures are the best. I'm sorry. My english is not very well. I try install tommorow.

What about trunk release wire? Positive or negative? What color and where?

Thank You

Paul 

Firstly, https://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000870 here's a writeup I did when these cars first came out, including pictures too.  Now that I've done more, I have a few things to add.

Chris, You're more than welcome to do that for the 2001-2002 Corolla's too if you don't mind... :D You really should think about writing tech books for the install field as your information and the details are quite excellent.

I'll be installing an Alpine alarm in my 2001 Corolla and could use all the help I can get.

Jeff

Jeff, older model Toyota's then 2003 are very simple to install alarm, remote start, keyless entry, etc. It's take me 1 hour. It's easy. What kind of Alpine You put to Your car?  If You have any questions, go ahead.

Paul

Hey

It's done. The alarm, remote starter works very good. I install Carbine Start2-Plus. I recomend to put in. Horn trigger is not GREEN / WHITE at steering column. I can't find this wire.

For open trunk I put motor with relay to release hatch.

Thanks  for Chris and Jeff.

Paul

Hey chris,

I have the 551-t valet remote start that I am installing on my sisters car. Which wire should I tap the Activation wire ?(WHITE/ blue on remote start) The "green" power lock wire? Will I also need a relay since it's a negative circuit? If so, how?

... everything is wired up and the remote does not initialize. Help...

Hi Chris Luongo

I am installing a ProStart Remote Starter/Door lock unit and noticed a discrepency in your previous post.  In your post of December 21, 2002

"REMOTE START NOTE:  The BLACK / YELLOW second accessory wire powers up the climate controls."

but on your web page at https://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000870 you say the black yellow is Ignition 2.

What  is the correct wire to use for the "Accessories output" ie heater fan?

Thanks for your help.

Kevin

Kevin,

The BLACK / YELLOW wire is Ignition 2.

itr 266: 

You probably don't really want to use that 551T, not only because the range of the factory remotes is lousy, but because the factory keyless doesn't work with the motor running----you'll be forced to use your key to get in.  But since you already installed it......

I think that wire on the 551T is programmable in one of the feature menus---I've never installed one of those myself.  But I think you can program it to recognize positive pulses?  If so, tie into the "lock motor" wire in the driver's kick panel---it is a thick wire that will show a positive when locking the doors----program the 551T so that you have to press "Lock" multiple times to activate the remote start; this way the remote start won't trigger every time you lock the car.

apmidura:

If I remember correctly, the horn wire is in a very small plug at the steering column, right up close to the steering wheel, next to the yellow plug for the air bag.

84celica:

Thanks for the compliments!  I'd love to get a job writing technical material, but I don't really know how to go about it, at least without relocating.  The 2001 Corollas seem to be pretty straightforward, and the tech sheets I've seen are fairly accurate.  But fire away with any specific questions you have.

Kevin Rodgers:

Sorry about the mistake.  The car has two ignition wires---the BLACK/ white and the BLACK / YELLOW.  Without seeing the Toyota dealer's service manual, we truly have no way of knowing which is "ignition 1" and which is "ignition 2"-----but since they test the same, we don't care which is which.  One of these wires (I think it's the BLACK / YELLOW) also enables the climate controls.  The blue/red accessory wire powers up the radio, remote mirrors, and maybe some other things, and it's not necessary to activate this wire during remote start.

As always, though, never rely 100% on tech information like this---always use it only as a guide, and test each wire for yourself.  You can often get away with powering up an ignition wire as an accessory, or an accessory wire as an ignition........but it is wise practice to duplicate the factory functions as closely as possible.

Chris,

Are you serious?  I can't use the keyless if my remote start is activated? if that is the case, since I am not done with the install, I will exchange it for the 551-R which comes with a transmiter. If I do this, Will I just need to swap out the Brain? Where there be additional wiring I need to do or wiring I need to take out?

you've been a great help so far..

thanks in advance!

I was also told that I need to have a relay to work this because it gives out a negative pulse. This was the relay info given to me. please confirm..

87= Remote Start (WHITE/ Blue)

86= Car's Power Lock  Wire (Green)

30= Ground

85= Ground

Go ahead and check for yourself.....insert the key and start the car.....press buttons on the Toyota remote....keyless won't work.  As a general rule, most American brands allow the keyless to work at all times; most imports don't.  (A few odd exceptions though:  The Focus is a European Ford, so its keyless doesn't work with the motor on, either.)  But you should still double-check on each car you're working on.

I've never installed a 551T, so I'm not sure if that relay is required or not.  I understand that as a default, the WHITE/ blue wire wants to see a single negative pulse to start........which WOULD require the relay as you mention.......but I thought it had options where you could program it to more easily interface with factory keyless?  And I'm sure most of the wires/plugs are the same as the 551R, but I'm not sure about all of them.

If you get something like the 551R you should be all set.  The 551R only has a low-current, negative-trigger parking light output....but you're in luck because you can get negative parking lights on a Corolla.  It's in a large plug right at the headlight/turn signal switch, a green wire with a tiny white stripe......just hook up your negative parking light output directly to this.  Also, those do-it-yourself Rattler remote starts at Best Buy and Circuit City, the ones going for $80, are a rebadged 551R.

The 551R will also operate your door locks; you do lose the two-step unlocking though.  For unlocking, there are a few options:  1.  Get the unlock wire in the passenger kick; it'll unlock all doors on a single pulse.  2.  Get the unlock wire in the driver's kick, and the 551R will unlock the driver's door ONLY; you'll have to unlock the others by yourself.  3.  Get the unlock wire in the driver's kick, and set the 551R for a double-pulse unlock----it'll unlock the driver's door first, and all the others immediately afterward.

Also, do you need to have two remotes?  The 552T only costs a little more than the 551R, and it comes with two remotes as well as a few other features----if you're going to buy a second remote anyway, it's a better deal to just buy the 552T now.  (The 552T may also support two-step unlocking, but I'm not sure.)

To Chris Luongo

Thanks for all your help and writeup you posted on the 2003 Corolla.  I just finished installing a ProStart unit (remote start and door lock) with your help.  Everything worked the first time. 

I have two final questions.  Why all the talk about "Dome Light Supervision"?  I don't see were that comes into play at all when installing a remote starter.   Did I do something wrong?

Were did you install the safety switch under the hood when you did the install?  I can't see a good location.

Domelight supervision:  Firstly, I figure that months or years down the road, someone might find this thread by doing a search-----the more information, the better it will be for them.

Furthermore, a typical remote start installation would include keyless entry too, so that the user can operate everything with one remote.

On the LE models, factory domelight supervision is included, which turns on automatically when using the factory keyless entry------it can also be activated by twisting the key in the door, or by using your aftermarket remote to trip the same wire.

But with virtually all cars, any type of factory domelight supervision is rendered inoperative with the engine running-------if the customer remote starts the car, and then unlocks it whatever way he wants------the domelight's still going to go out the instant he closes the car door.  If you hook up the domelight supervision from the remote start, it still won't work exactly like the factory stuff did, but at least the light will still stay on until the driver inserts the key and steps on the brake, which was how the car was intended to operate from the factory.

Chris,

Concerning the 551-R. I will be exchanging the 551-T for the 551-R. I just have a couple of questions before I receive the unit..

What will be the activation point on the Remote Start? Will it be coming from the pulses on the wires of the powerlock and un-lock wires ?.... thus on most 2 button transmitters , both buttons are needed to be pressed for the remote start to initiate... can you confirm?

Also, as far as I've been told.. there is no disarm and arm wire on the Factory Alarm of the Corolla. With this in mind, how would I disarm the alarm before initiating the remote start and re-arming th car after it had been started?

thanks again.

Chris,

As per my questions above....I was thinking...Since I don't know of any factory disarm wire..... Can I tap in the factory disarm wire to the "power-unlock" wire of the car, since unlocking the car disarms the factory alarm?  Will it work? Is it a good idea or not?

JWorm has it right.  Like him, I've never seen a factory alarm in a Corolla.  Are you sure you have an alarm, not just plain ol' keyless entry?  It could be an aftermarket unit installed at the car dealer, or a Toyota (VIP) alarm installed by the dealer or distributor.

In any event, the "factory alarm disarm wire" is not needed.

Locking the door with the proper lock wire arms the alarm.  (The proper wire is the one that tests by twisting the key in the door, NOT the wire that tests off the lock/unlock switch.)

Unlocking the door with the proper wire disarms the alarm. 

Sending a steady ground to the key sense wire during remote start disarms the alarm.  Use the DEI's blue "status" or blue/black "third ignition" wire for this.  No relay needed. 

I probably do have the Dealer installed Alarm...

What exactly is the key sense wire??... Since I have all the connections from the 551-T, what wires will I need exactly to wire, add or alter?

I know i have to tap on the blue and green wires to the power door locks and take out the WHITE/ blue activation wire off the "green" power lock wire..

Also, if i use the 12+ power locks in the driver kick panel with the proper 12+ relay to hook up to the negative output of the remote start power locks, would I have problems remote starting the car when simultaneously pressing the 2 buttons off the transmitter ?

You guys have been such great help. I just need this to be done asap....

This is a little off topic, but can anyone tell me how to program a keyless entry remote using an existing working remote? If it helps the FCC ID for both remotes is ELVAT5G. These are for a 2000 Sienna.

Thanks!