2003 Chevy TrailBlazer

I have found the links on this wonderful forum for the wiring diagram. It has helped TREMENDOUSLY, THANKS!!!

I am installing an autopage 750 remote starter. I have the remote start working and the locks, thanks to a GMDL1 and the Passlock is bypasses with a PLDATA, bot from bypasskit.com. They work great, one note about the GMDL1, if you install it on a vehicle with 2 step unlocking and your remote start does 2 step unlock, make sure you connect the driver's priority unlock to the first unlock wire on the remote start, and the unlock all wire on the GDML1 to the second unlock wire of the remote start, otherwise getting the unlock working for all the doors is very difficult. I still have 2 step unlock and it works great, actually everything works great. Please feel free to contact me if want my notes on this install.

I am having a problem getting the parking lights to work. I see the gray/black wire at the switch, but am unable to make it work. So I decided to just tap into the power wire for the parking lights. According to the diagram I found on this site, it should be a brown wire on the driver kick panel. I am wonderful if this location is the main wire bundle that runs through the firewall. If so, there are LOTS of brown wires, all of them appear to 16 or 18 gauge, hardly what I would think would be the power wire for the parking lights. Can anyone give me some tips to make this work? My remote start has a 12V 10A + lead for parking lights.

Thanks!

You should be able to find the BROWN wire along with the other IGNITION wires coming down the steering column.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I have found a brown wire, it's in the bundle that goes to the ignition harness. But, it's at 12 volts whenever the ignition is on, no matter where what the light switch is set to. I have triple checked and this particular brown wire doesn't appear to have anything to do with the parking lights. I have tested the voltge on the wire with the ignition on and off, also with the parking lights on and off. I even tried all the possible combinations of the two. The voltage is always at 12 volts when the ignition is on. From everything I can see, this is not the correct wire.

Any further help would be appreciated. :)

PS: If anyone knows the location of the door sense wire, that would help too. I would connect to the interior lights, but they can be switched off, and I want a more reliable method of determing if the doors are open for the alarm.

Thanks!

If i remember correctly the last 2003 Envoy I did, I had to check about 3 or 4 of those BROWN wires before I found the right one. It's near the middle of the bunch if that helps, but it's better than going to the engine for the wire. The trigger for all the doors is a BLACK wire (-) found in the passenger door door switch.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

THANK YOU!!

I FOUND IT!!! The brown wire was in the main bundle that runs from the engine through the firewall, underneath the steering column, and behind the center console. The one I needed was in the buried. I have it soldered up and it's work very well. Thank you.

I also found the horn wire, although mine was BLACK / YELLOW. It sat below and left off the white wire, which I believe is ignition 2.

I also fought and won a battle getting a tach wire and hood pin installed. Now only need to find a suitable door open wire. I found a green wire one the light switch that seems to be the power for interior lights and works even when they are switched off using the push button. However, the power is supplied to it for 30 seconds or so after the door is shut, presumable for an entry light. I don't have any courtesy lights on the floor/under the dash, so all references to that, haven't helped me much. I saw your note about the black wire on the passenger door switch. I assume that's in the door. I am a little reluctant to rip the door apart, or put a wire through to the door. I am concerned I more do damage to the door, and worried that any wire I install may interfer with the hinge or get pinched and cause a unwanted ground. My father works for a GM dealership, he had originally faxed me the wiring diagram. But it didn't come through clean enough to read. I may him punch this one up on the computer and see if I can track down a trigger wire inside the cabin. If I do, I will post it here.

A more note, I know the car won't start when it's not in neutral or park. But I have a neutral safety wire, and would like to install it anyway, just in case. Have you done this? If so, how do I get the center console off... I found the screws under the rubber cup holders and change holder, what else am I missing? It appears to be in multiple pieces, which should make this fairly easy to do.

Thanks again. Your help has been tremendous! Thank you!

Chris

Actually, to take the door panel off to fish a wire through isn't that bad. Just make sure you that when you take off the speaker off the door that you pry it with care. It will not want to come off so you will need a little bit of force. As far as the interior light I found that the one along the driver's side door sill leading to the light between the driver door and the rear passenger door ( driver side ). The one's that I worked on also did not have the lower dash light to tap into for the GMDL1 bypass module so that's where I grabbed it. I never have used the nuetral safety wire for any of the installs that I have done for the 2003's, no real need to .

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thanks Jeff for all your help. I have everything done except for the door trigger. It was fairly easy to get the door panel off, take out two bolts, the black piece around the door handle, popup the door switch panel then the panel itself comes off easy. I put a DMM to the wires coming off of the passenger door lock and window switches. I tested all the ground wires, including the black ones. There was only one wire that went to ground when the door was opened, I belive it was blue or blue/white. The rest where already grounded or may have been positive. Is this the right location? Or do I need to pull the liner off and find something underneath?

I am going to take a look at the GM wire diagram tomorrow and see what I am doing wrong.

I will get to that when I can. For now, I just have to be aware of it. I just wanted to say "Thank you" again. The whole project has taken me somewhere around 20 hours, mainly due to this being the first one I have done. Everything works well, apart from a few programming changes I am going to make when I finish the door trigger.

I am curious, what exactly is the interior light bypass thing for on the GMDL1? I didn't bother to connect it, since I could not figure out what it's purpose was.

One last thing, can you send me an email at chris@roadfeldt.com. I would like to show you my appreciation for your help.

Thanks again.

Sorry, I see I left part of a paragraph that I removed. Ignore the "I will get to that when I can. For now, I just have to be aware of it."
....

OK, so I connected my GMDL1 to the gray/black wire running to the driver's courtesy light. I also connected the GMDL1 through a relay to my car start/alarm, an Autopage 750. I don't like this setup as the light can be shut off at the switch, even for open doors. Plus the light can come on and stay on for various other reasons, but I was unable to locate any other suitable wire. I had some wire diagrams from GM, but they were nothing more than grounding diagrams. I may continue down that path, but the problem I have now, is that the alarm goes off anytime your use the remote start after the system is armed and sits for a while. I can sit in the car, arm it and then use the remote start and everything works as expected. But if the TrailBlazer is armed and then sits for a while, and you use the remote start. The alarm will go off, and the two way remote says the door triggered. It's bad enough I may just remove the door trigger all together, except it keeps locking the doors half way through loading up the kids. I have double checked the wiring of the relay, it's correct according to the GMDL1 diagram. Anyone have any thoughts?

Did you have the relay set up like this:

• 87: NOT USED
• 85 : PINK/WHITE wire on GMDL
• 30 : GRAY/BLACK wire along side the driver's door sill & also connect the PINK wire from the GMDL1 to terminal
• 86 : 12 volt +
• 87a: Door pin input on alarm system.

Also, make sure that your jumper switches are correct.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA