Bypass lockout on AVIC-N2, AVIC-D1

Just ground the parking brake wire and it should play DVDs or you soldered wrong.  The speed sense has nothing to do with the bypass, only increases the accuracy of the navigation and vehicle dynamics

ltrains wrote:

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hey people, i recently bought avicn2 on ebay for 900 with xm.. but it didn't came with navi cds.. i installed to my jeep but i didnt get a chance to wire the parking nor the speed sensor.. i did do the soldering under the unit.. i think i did the job but it still doesn't play dvds''.. any idea how i could tap into the parking and speed sensor.. thanks

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Yes.  Do a little soldering; and ground the greenish wire.

topspoiler wrote:

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Did anyone try this on the Pioneer N2?

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Thanks algutkin - Can you believe people are trying to sell this info that you just gave us?! Well I finally managed to win a Brand New sealed N2 on Ebay for $1150. I seen some a little cheaper but the sellers feedback ratings kinda made me nervous with something that I gotta pay that much for. Still not bad for $1150 eh?

As mentioned, once I get it and do the mod, I will let everyone know how it turned out.

PCGuy760:

I think I was the guy bidding against you. That is,  if it was the unit being sold by the outfit in Corona, CA.  My next bid had to be $1175.00 so I quit. I'm not into driving up the price for the next guy.  The radio is a good deal at $1150.00.

I personally think the N2s are going up in price as we get closer to Chrismas, so I thought that stocking up would be good for some extra bucks. I wouldn't sell the bypass info, or sell radios that had been bypassed, that is just looking for a future law suit, if not from some damaged person, it might come from Pioneer themselves. Selling bypass info or bypassed radios might put Pioneer in some kind of legal jeopardy. I bet they fix the R197 pins on the future units they manufacture.

good luck with the install, you got a good deal on that radio.

Al

algutkin wrote:

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PCGuy760:

I think I was the guy bidding against you. That is,  if it was the unit being sold by the outfit in Corona, CA.  My next bid had to be $1175.00 so I quit. I'm not into driving up the price for the next guy.  The radio is a good deal at $1150.00.

I personally think the N2s are going up in price as we get closer to Chrismas, so I thought that stocking up would be good for some extra bucks. I wouldn't sell the bypass info, or sell radios that had been bypassed, that is just looking for a future law suit, if not from some damaged person, it might come from Pioneer themselves. Selling bypass info or bypassed radios might put Pioneer in some kind of legal jeopardy. I bet they fix the R197 pins on the future units they manufacture.

good luck with the install, you got a good deal on that radio.

Al

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LOL - this is funny to run into you - yeah I just checked it's the same seller and item hehe :).

Nope

Go4DKil wrote:

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I have a N-1

If I upgrade with the new discs, will this bypass work on the N-1?

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Well, curiousity bit me.

I had an extra n2 lying around that was returned. missing some parts, so you can guess what i did. =)

of course i'm smart enough to figure out the guy was right. Boards are coated =) so.. I scraped away what i could, bought a tracing pen @ radio shack (3.99, better than solder when working on circuit boards) and made me a nice little connection.

get in the car, drive it. get on the road, 25-30-40-50 mph, still works, all the gps features are unlocked. everything. and so far, so good, we're testing it out in one of my guys cars.

you may say another newbie posting good news. but just so you know i am a supervisor @ best buy in virginia. Not trying to pull your chains. You can email me (Ask via private message and i'll tell you what you need to know i.e. real email address or whatever)  

as said, so far, so good. i'll update you if i have ANY problems. the key here is to remember to remove the coating off the board. otherwise, you can drop as much solder there as you want and it'll nEVER make contact.

if you look at the bottom of the n1, and use common sense.. the n1 has no opening as such. no covered up holes, no anything to access the board. Use your common sense, pioneer put this there for a reason. when i get a chance i'll call my pioneer representative and see what they know of this. I probably should have done that before but the avec was going to be sent back so why not put it to use? anyways. good luck you guys

Something tells me that Pioneer is gonna get rid of that R197 hack on the newer models or even newer N2's. 

Does this mean that our (older)  AVIC-N2's will be worth like $5000? LOL.

whtcrxghst wrote:

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Nope

Go4DKil wrote:

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I have a N-1

If I upgrade with the new discs, will this bypass work on the N-1?

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That Sucks. Guess you better keep the old discs ...

Pcguy:

Probably won't be worth 5 grand, but the closer to Christmas it will sure be worth closer to the $ 2200 MSRP.  When it snows perhaps guys will make out in parked cars and try to convince those dumb girls that they are in the drive in.

The other side of the value equasion,  what  good is a unit that only works when it is parked? Can't even put he unit in your boat, the GPS function will kill the Video.  Censorship Sucks!

The worst part of the whole thing, I wouldn't sell a unit that has been soldered. Suppose the buyer screwed up the install and then claimed that you sold a defective used radio? So, it looks like we might be stuck with our soldered units. My motto, once the radio is installed, just sell the car and don't remove the radio. Not worth the trouble.

algutkin wrote:

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Censorship Sucks!

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Auex:

Human beings seem to be unable to accept responsibility for the stupid ,and sometimes, dangerous or  illegal things that they do. When these individuals exceed thier own personal limitations, their defense seems to be to blame thier own stupidity on others and contact an attorney. Consequently, the reactions and results that arise out of the ensueing litigation serves to be nothing more than censorship for the rest of us that know our own personal limitations,and stay within them.  

I am personally angered when somone or some group, that hasn't proved superior intellegence,  suceeds at censoring, or limiting, my life and freedom, as a result of others that cannot be responsible for their own actions.

If we continue to lower everyone's limits to those that make up the weakest link, mankind in general is going backward. Wouldn't it be better to help raise up the weakest link.

For example: You get into an accident while watchin the car video or playing with the GPS. The penalty is that you are personally forbidden from having children, cell phones, makeup, or food in your automobile. You also must attend 40 hours of traffic school with extra courses on mental multitasking. You also must drive with two hands on wheel at all times, keeping the ten and two position. If you cannot pass a eye hand coordination and reaction test, your driving priviledge will be withdrawn.

Censorship says nothing more than "Since stupid uncoordinated weak minded people cannot do something without causing danger to themselves or those around them, we must stop everyone from being able to do that particular something".

That is why I used the word censorship.

My hat it off to those of us that are mentally and pysically able to determine for ourselves when it's time to put down the cell phone, ditch the makeup, close the Avic display, stop hitting the kids in the back seat, and for God's sake, when we should stop trying to drink hot over filled Starbucks.  

Majestyk wrote:

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OK does this really work or not? I can't wait to try but I don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks

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Yes it works.  I just had it done yesterday.  I was skeptical at first when my installer told me about the fix....I had them promise not to mess up my N2.  Took the installer less than 30 mins to do it.  I was still skeptical until I was doing 80 on my way home and tested the system.   

algutkin wrote:

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If we continue to lower everyone's limits to those that make up the weakest link, mankind in general is going backward. Wouldn't it be better to help raise up the weakest link.

---

Back to the discussion on Bypassing the Pioneer AVIC N2s lockout on certain imputs when the vehicle is traveling more than 5 MPH.

The pin soldering method seems to work, I have completed the task on  three of my own radios. I have a vehicle that contains the first radio that I screwed up the bypass soldering, so when I did the others, I simply removed the screwed up radio and inserted the newly bypassed in order to perform my success test. Well, mybe it's coincedence, but I noticed that the bypassed radio seemed to run hotter. The underside of the bypassed radio seemed to be warmer than the radio that was not bypassed. I have not had the opportunity to test the bypassed radios on long trips, or continued long term usage.

Has anyone been able to put some miles and hours on one of the bypassed radios? Anyone experience overheating problems? No need to cause a panic, I just want to make sure it isn't my imagination.

Hello,

Just bought a D1...Forgive me for getting lost in this thread...

I know I cannot watch movies...No need to for me.  Just want to have all the NAV capabilities while driving (maybe my wife uses it while I drive) and also would like not to have try and find the brake wire...Lastly, do I need to connect the reverse (back-up) wire?  I have a good friend that is an electrician.  He'll do the wiring for me.

In short, what is the method for defeating on the D1.

THANKS!!!!!!

Lost in this thread? You must really need navigation because its in the first post:  here ya go

AVIC-D1 lockout bypass:  Find an extra Pioneer wire harness, and pull one of the wires out.  Or, if you do not use the A.ANT lead, pull that out of the harness.  In the AVIC-D1 harness, there is one open spot on the connector (next to the ground wire). Put the wire into the open spot on the connector, connect the other side to ground, then re-connect the plug to the AVIC-D1. Also, you must ground the Parking Brake wire (or connect to a toggle switch if you feel the need).

Just bought a D1...Forgive me for getting lost in this thread...

I know I cannot watch movies...No need to for me.  Just want to have all the NAV capabilities while driving (maybe my wife uses it while I drive) and also would like not to have try and find the brake wire...Lastly, do I need to connect the reverse (back-up) wire?  I have a good friend that is an electrician.  He'll do the wiring for me.

In short, what is the method for defeating on the D1.

THANKS!!!!!!

Well, I did the pin changout today on the AVIC-D1 and it works.   I know all the previous replies people have been saying "that user has only has 2 posts or 3 posts"  Well Guess what, so do I.   But i have proof, I took live video of the speedometer and the avic-d1 at the same time.    I was on a empty road and all that jazz so dont start any flaming on driving while doing this.  Its about 9.55 meg     https://home.comcast.net/~skuehner/avic-d1.avi

wacktool wrote:

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Well, I did the pin changout today on the AVIC-D1 and it works.   I know all the previous replies people have been saying "that user has only has 2 posts or 3 posts"  Well Guess what, so do I.   But i have proof, I took live video of the speedometer and the avic-d1 at the same time.    I was on a empty road and all that jazz so dont start any flaming on driving while doing this.  Its about 9.55 meg     https://home.comcast.net/~skuehner/avic-d1.avi

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You installed the unit yourself and you can't bypass it yourself?  Are you sure?  Just pull the deck, if you are not using one of the other wires in the harness, remove it with a molex tool (or a paper clip or something to get it out.)  Then stick it in the open spot in the harness over by the ground (black.)  Take that wire, the light green wire (has a little plastic tag on it that tells you its the brake wire), and the ground in the harness(its black) and connect them to the ground coming from your car.  Shouldn't take more than a couple minutes

chido] wrote:

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ever mind it didn't work. Don't know why I thought it did. Guess I will still have to take it to my installer to get it bypassed. I think the unit was reading the vss as well as the e-brake.

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real quick question. the double din one.....the d1 i believe, can dvd's be played on this unit or does it not have that option at all?

even if the car is parked with the parking brake?

i am a bit confused because through out the thread it said that there is a dvd-rom and not a actual dvd plyer built in......

can someone please clear this up for me?  i have to do a navigation unit on a car  and i was considering that unit untill i read this.

thanks fellas

Yes, it has to optical drives/slots.   Top slot is for the music disc's  ie.. mp3, cd's, etc...    The bottom/2nd slot is for the dvd navigation discs.   The unit DOES not play dvd movies.    You have to purchase a external unit.

sexyvic1 wrote:

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real quick question. the double din one.....the d1 i believe, can dvd's be played on this unit or does it not have that option at all?

even if the car is parked with the parking brake?

i am a bit confused because through out the thread it said that there is a dvd-rom and not a actual dvd plyer built in......

can someone please clear this up for me? i have to do a navigation unit on a car and i was considering that unit untill i read this.

thanks fellas

---

auex][ wrote:

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UOTE=trunknuts]

No, the D1 does not have an onboard DVD drive for DVD movies so you would have to use an external DVD player.  

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So There's no way to use it's current setup to play DVDs? I heard a kid did it, and I'm interested myself. 

Kill

Nope.  That kid must be dreaming of when he gets a car and a stereo

So There's no way to use it's current setup to play DVDs? I heard a kid did it, and I'm interested myself. 

Kill

leenas wrote:

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I know I'm a newbie but I just tried the D1 bypass trick and it worked for me. Also for those that have an Aviator I started a threat for where to locate the VSS wire... https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=64038&PN=1&tpn=1

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hello, everyone, i spoke with my friend who works at a local retail store and he said that he did the bypass for the N2 himself for the display unit and it worked. i saw it work too.

but he said he doesn't know how it will react when the car is in motion. he has not tested that because it is a display unit on the wall.

just figured i would add this to let people know that it does not screw up the unit if u solder like someone mentioned a bit ealier in the thread.

Just got my D1. Returned the Eclipse AVN5435 (outdated maps) and got the D1.  Did the bypass and works like a charm.  I also did it on an N2 and the the DVD option is available during movement. 

Avic-D1 mod works. I took a wire off another harness from an Alpine head unit. You can use any wire from any harness and you must ground that wire along with the parking break wire. Make sure you connect the speed sensor and reverse light wires.

Naviation looks nice ion my mustang but not as accurate as i would like it to be. The antenna needs to be mounted outside for better reception. The problem is it states you arrived about 50 feet from the location. =(

If yall need install help let me know.

laTe

AutoNavguy wrote:

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Hope this is OK to make a clean post of this, but alot of people are asking about this and the multi-page threads are not so clear.  It contains some updated information from the original rec.audio.car post, as well.

Below are instructions on how to bypass the lockouts on the Pioneer AVIC-N2 and AVIC-D1.  It is real simple, and does not require any complex switches or anything.  We figure these are service or testing modes, and were not intended to become public.  Our Pioneer guy claims to not know anything about it, but who knows, that may just be a line.

This bypass will do three things:
1. Makes all nav functions available while driving (just like they should be)
2. Make video playback available while driving
3. No more parking brake warning box!!!

AVIC-N2 lockout bypass:  Underneath the MAIN unit (not the hideaway) is a small silver sticker, peel this back.  There are two contacts with the label "R197".  Drop a bit of solder between these to connect them. Also, you must ground the Parking Brake wire.

AVIC-D1 lockout bypass:  Find an extra Pioneer wire harness, and pull one of the wires out.  Or, if you do not use the A.ANT lead, pull that out of the harness.  In the AVIC-D1 harness, there is one open spot on the connector (next to the ground wire). Put the wire into the open spot on the connector, connect the other side to ground, then re-connect the plug to the AVIC-D1. Also, you must ground the Parking Brake wire (or connect to a toggle switch if you feel the need).

Thats it, all there is to it, and all the lockouts are bypassed.  Easy, give it a try. 

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jsut a quick question. what is teh easies way to ger the "sapre wire" out of the harness, i tried, but i dont want to damage it!!

cheers!

Craig

simon143k wrote:

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Avic-D1 mod works. I took a wire off another harness from an Alpine head unit. You can use any wire from any harness and you must ground that wire along with the parking break wire. Make sure you connect the speed sensor and reverse light wires.

Naviation looks nice ion my mustang but not as accurate as i would like it to be. The antenna needs to be mounted outside for better reception. The problem is it states you arrived about 50 feet from the location. =(

If yall need install help let me know.

laTe

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sorry guys this might be a stupid question that is probably have asked by some ppl many times . i just a got a d1 installed in my audi... the unit is amazing and i did the bypass and it worked it unlocked on the navi features but my real quesiton is will the internal dvd rom drive could play dvds or not... or i have to hook up seperate dvd player no matter what.           and if it will how can i make it happen . because the part that i am confused from this thread is ppl say it has worked like a charm and ... so with bypass they can watch dvd with internal dvd rom too...  or external is required       HOW come i can't .

thanks

thank u...

i am not hijacking the thread but

second question for those who have d1.... can u have a split screen with av and navi for example... can i have a cd playing so that will be av mode can i also have navi showing on split screen like back up camera and navi...

thanks

No, but you can overlay navigation arrows on the bottom right corner of your screen.  At least then you know how long til the next turn

need1234 wrote:

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thank u...

i am not hijacking the thread but

second question for those who have d1.... can u have a split screen with av and navi for example... can i have a cd playing so that will be av mode can i also have navi showing on split screen like back up camera and navi...

thanks

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Yes the N2 bypass does work! I have a newer unit (purchased on 9-12-2005) opened up the N2 (removed the silver sticker) and found two very small solder dots, joined them, grounded the parking break wire and all works excellent. Still get the startup message otherwise all works as promised/hoped. And yes...I know I am a newbie but I promise I do not belong to the Pioneer Sabatage Team! :)

The maps are better, the background images are different but not much better, and there are some improvements to the menus, plus the ability to do NavTraffic

x2nervisx wrote:

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so to those who have the n1 and upgraded to the n2 discs... did you guys notice anything different other than the obvious lock out such as different displays, different graphics, added graphics, new menus or more acurate maps? And are these discs N2 discs that come with the unit or are they specific n1 upgrade discs?   Thanks for any input.

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hey guys, newbie here.. just saying hello and that this forum is too funny for the responses on the avic n2.

just so you all know.

i canadian and we don't lie ;-)

i did the r197 bypass and it worked great.

i am surprised that there is very few people that say so.

the pioneer police thread.. that was too funny!!! LOL

cheers

jjones5 wrote:

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This question got posted a while back but i couldn't see an answer so I will ask it again. On the wiring harness for the D1 the only open slot is the top right. Is this the spot to insert the new wire and ground. I have installed the D1 with the parking brake grounded now I am trying to finish the rest of the bypass. Any help appreciated.

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Isn't the most crucial part of the bypass on the N2 not melting the wax around the pins?  Well isn't there somw type of conducting paste that doesn't require soldering that could be used instead?  May be a dumb question but somewhere I thought I had heard of such a thing.

bajaclawz71 wrote:

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Isn't the most crucial part of the bypass on the N2 not melting the wax around the pins?  Well isn't there somw type of conducting paste that doesn't require soldering that could be used instead?  May be a dumb question but somewhere I thought I had heard of such a thing.

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hey guys.. i am not sure what the issue is... if anyone knows how to solder is to just apply the heat when needed...

i added a wire to junction the two points and it works great,

all done... no issues.

man.. reading all the threads and discussions on this topic made me nervous... you guys are paranoid... ;-)

avic_canuck wrote:

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bajaclawz71 wrote:

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Isn't the most crucial part of the bypass on the N2 not melting the wax around the pins?  Well isn't there somw type of conducting paste that doesn't require soldering that could be used instead?  May be a dumb question but somewhere I thought I had heard of such a thing.

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hey guys.. i am not sure what the issue is... if anyone knows how to solder is to just apply the heat when needed...

i added a wire to junction the two points and it works great,

all done... no issues.

man.. reading all the threads and discussions on this topic made me nervous... you guys are paranoid... ;-)

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Hell yea I am paranoid, we are talking about $1300+ here.

bajaclawz71 wrote:

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avic_canuck wrote:

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bajaclawz71 wrote:

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Isn't the most crucial part of the bypass on the N2 not melting the wax around the pins?  Well isn't there somw type of conducting paste that doesn't require soldering that could be used instead?  May be a dumb question but somewhere I thought I had heard of such a thing.

---

hey guys.. i am not sure what the issue is... if anyone knows how to solder is to just apply the heat when needed...

i added a wire to junction the two points and it works great,

all done... no issues.

man.. reading all the threads and discussions on this topic made me nervous... you guys are paranoid... ;-)

---

Hell yea I am paranoid, we are talking about $1300+ here.

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i hear ya.. my point is... that the task is trivial, just solder the two points... don't worry about heating.. don't worry about anything... if you know how to solder then you should be fine....

common sense here... don't use a blow torch to solder the connection ;)

drew4188 wrote:

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The N2 bypass does not work.  I tried it and it blanked out my monitor.  I was lucky that I was able to remove the solder and same the system

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dude.. you are mistaken, it works fine...

i have done it to mine.. took me like 5 min to solder the wire... and thats it.

works over 40km works at 180km....

i get full functionality of the nav system.

piece of cake.

make sure you ground your green wire.. the parking brake to the body of the car.

i still didn't hook up my pink wire.. the reverse..

the unit rocks.. so precise!

love it so much i am buying another one for my jeep.. and you guessed it.. doing the bypass again.

drew4188 wrote:

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What could I have done wrong to make it not work for me.   I put solder between the 2 connections, But I did not ground the brake wire.  I do have the speed sensor hooked up.  That shoul dnot have caused the monitor to remain black.  Please assist further

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hi there.

take a 18gauge wire.

solder the ends first... then touch one end of the short 18g wire to one point on the r197 pin.  then touch the wire and it should solder on immediately.

do the same to the other end.

about the parking brake.. you need to have the grounded in order for the bypass to work.

let me know if that helps.

if you just left your soldering gun on the r197 points.. then you could have applied too much heat and who knows what is beneath that..

you might have to take it apart to see what you have melted underneath.

good luck.

Yes, I am a new user.  This as a matter of fact is my first post.  I just purchased a N2.  I was sent to this site for info on bypassing.  I was hoping I would have some info that wouldn't be so confusing.  I'm a girl and have no experience doing anything remotely close to this so I was hoping to get the info and give it to someone who can help me.  Now after reading almost all these posts I get the feeling that it may ruin the N2 that I just paid a f-load of money for.  I know my uncle could make the fix on it but I can't ask him to do it cuz he'll freak out that it's illegal and dangerous so that leaves me sitting next to the dumb boy in the parking lot who thinks he's at the drive in's.  Yes, some of you boy's are pretty stupid too. 

I'm just frusterated that I'm not sure who's info I should trust on here, and who would actually be qualified to make the changes for me.

Its fairly simple, you just have to connect the pins as described hundreds of times in here.  If you know anyone with basic electrical experience, they should know how to solder.  If you don't know anyone, try the wire thing described here.  I have done the solder and its easy but if you don't know anyone qualified, I would stick with the wire because you have less chance of messing up your new deck

adikted wrote:

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Yes, I am a new user.  This as a matter of fact is my first post.  I just purchased a N2.  I was sent to this site for info on bypassing.  I was hoping I would have some info that wouldn't be so confusing.  I'm a girl and have no experience doing anything remotely close to this so I was hoping to get the info and give it to someone who can help me.  Now after reading almost all these posts I get the feeling that it may ruin the N2 that I just paid a f-load of money for.  I know my uncle could make the fix on it but I can't ask him to do it cuz he'll freak out that it's illegal and dangerous so that leaves me sitting next to the dumb boy in the parking lot who thinks he's at the drive in's.  Yes, some of you boy's are pretty stupid too. 

I'm just frusterated that I'm not sure who's info I should trust on here, and who would actually be qualified to make the changes for me.

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Your probably better off buying an N2.  If you get an N1 and decide to upgrade the software now or down the line, you will not be able to bypass it.  The navigation is better than alpine and eclipse, sound quality is dependent on what model you are comparing it to in those lines.  Pioneers best sound quality screen is the 7600DVD so you might consider that if your very concerned about it, but is expensive and you would have seperate nav like the alpine systems

Slammed01 wrote:

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How does the N1 compare to the N2? Would I be better off buying the N2 online since either way by doing the mod will void my warranty? They want 1800+ in stores and 1300 on EBay. How is the sound quality/navigation compared to Eclipse and Alpine?

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You can put the N2 software in their standalone navi for the same mapping and databases, but they will not do navtraffic.  Not sure if they have one for next year

Slammed01 wrote:

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Will Pioneer have a Navi unit seperate for the 7500 and 7600 series that has navtraffic and compares to the n2 software?

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Not sure if you know this but, the 7500 and standalone navi are not affected by the lockout.  I think most people on here are asking about the units with built-in navi, which is why there are like 11 pages on the topic.  So why would you not do it if it was your own unit?  Would you still like yours if you couldn't access the vicinity search and poi search while moving?  If you hadn't  bypassed your "far better" system, you wouldn't be able to do that either, right?  So you would probably bypass it just like everyone else.  Good thing there are forums like this to teach you how to do it. 

3forty7 wrote:

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There has been tons of prople on this board saying it work it doesnt work, blah, blah, blah. It works if you do it right. Have done 10 units without a problem. If it was me and my own unit I dont think I would do it. One I have a avh-7500dvd wich is far better, but I think I have only watched a dvd once while driving and that was one I got the unit 2 years ago. The only thing pioneer needs to improve on is the access of all the navigation features while driving. Most people want this rather than the ability to watch a dvd.

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The lockout bypass  sounds like a solution to a lot of peoples problems including my own hopefully.

I just bought an Avic-X1R. Is there a known bypass for this model or is it the same as the US model with a different model number?

Please Help!

I thought the X1 was the European version of the N1, which only required the parking brake wire to be grounded.  Not sure about the X1R though. 

badboyozz wrote:

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The lockout bypass  sounds like a solution to a lot of peoples problems including my own hopefully.

I just bought an Avic-X1R. Is there a known bypass for this model or is it the same as the US model with a different model number?

Please Help!

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bajaclawz71 wrote:

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avic_canuck wrote:

---

bajaclawz71 wrote:

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Isn't the most crucial part of the bypass on the N2 not melting the wax around the pins?  Well isn't there somw type of conducting paste that doesn't require soldering that could be used instead?  May be a dumb question but somewhere I thought I had heard of such a thing.

---

hey guys.. i am not sure what the issue is... if anyone knows how to solder is to just apply the heat when needed...

i added a wire to junction the two points and it works great,

all done... no issues.

man.. reading all the threads and discussions on this topic made me nervous... you guys are paranoid... ;-)

---

Hell yea I am paranoid, we are talking about $1300+ here.

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I think your right to be para. Let's face it if something does go wrong with yout unit you will miss that warranty.

My advice - use wires not solder. Although I hear there is a metal filler available so you could put some of that stuff on a piece of bare metal and then test it with a circuit tester to make sure you still get a circuit.

whtcrxghst wrote:

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I thought the X1 was the European version of the N1, which only required the parking brake wire to be grounded.  Not sure about the X1R though. 

---

I have not yet attached the speed pulse wire but I have grounded the handbrake wire. I'll post a comment when I get the speed pulse connected - going to mitsubishi garage on Saturday so they can locate it for me. I was shocked when I called them and they tols me they can't be sure without having access to the car - so much for buying service and repair manuals.

ok guys, I know we all have read and posted about Watching Video while you drive.  I'm an installer at a shop and most of you will think i'm full of b.s. but I'm not.  I had a customer come in yesterday with an 02 Suburban.  Well, needless to say, they have an Avic-N1 in the dash and also another Avic-N1 mounted in the center console where the rear A/C-Radio Controls go for rear seat TV.  Well, they also hooked up the nav back there and we all know how to do do the video bypass on the N2 & D1 but is there any type of work around with the AVIC-N1 with video while you drive.  The guy who had the dual nav units in his truck wants it for his kids to play with so they can hear it on their headphones or play with the nav system and also use the phonebook directory under the address search.  Now with his new NAV upgrade, the avic-n1 in the back seat can't watch video any more.... 

Does anyone have a work around for the AVIC-N1 as far as video while you drive like the N2 & D1 ???

Steve

I tried this mod out and it worked perfectly.

I strongly suggest using a circuit tracing pen instead of solder.  The contacts are really small and delicate.  If you are not very skilled with a soldering iron, or have a cheap iron that doesn't get hot enough, you run the risk of damaging the circuit board.

A circuit tracing pen can be purchased at Radio Shack for about $12.99.  It uses a conductive ink.  Clean the two solder points and then draw a line between them with the pen....and Done!

That's all it took for me.  It was super easy and works perfect.  I didn't have to worry about over heating the contact and breaking something on the unit.

Good luck everyone!

Yes it will lock out video while you drive.  There is not a fix for it yet like on the N2 because those pins do not exist on the N1.  You might suggest to the owner to just not upgrade the software on the rear N1.  Its not like they need the newer mapping and other features if its just a slave for the kids to play with

ellasman wrote:

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we have not upgraded the software yet, but when we do, we're upgrading to the AVIC-N2 software the CNDV-50 , won't it lock out video while you drive???? That is the question at issue. When you upgrade the AVIC-N1 to the new software, won't it lock out video while you drive, and is there a fix for it like the jumper pins in the AVIC-N2 ?????

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johnnysinn wrote:

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I tried this mod out and it worked perfectly.

I strongly suggest using a circuit tracing pen instead of solder.  The contacts are really small and delicate.  If you are not very skilled with a soldering iron, or have a cheap iron that doesn't get hot enough, you run the risk of damaging the circuit board.

A circuit tracing pen can be purchased at Radio Shack for about $12.99.  It uses a conductive ink.  Clean the two solder points and then draw a line between them with the pen....and Done!

That's all it took for me.  It was super easy and works perfect.  I didn't have to worry about over heating the contact and breaking something on the unit.

Good luck everyone!

---

Hey Guys, well I am about 2 seconds from buying the N2. THe bypass on the board has worked for a bunch of installers down here.

Here is my only question though, Will all of the vehicle dynamics still work? Such as the Gforce meter, side G meter and such. I am sure the speed signal will, because I am going to hook up the pink wire to my speed signal from my SRT4.

any ideas?

Yes, everything works

srt4police wrote:

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Hey Guys, well I am about 2 seconds from buying the N2. THe bypass on the board has worked for a bunch of installers down here.

Here is my only question though, Will all of the vehicle dynamics still work? Such as the Gforce meter, side G meter and such. I am sure the speed signal will, because I am going to hook up the pink wire to my speed signal from my SRT4.

any ideas?

---

Does anyone have a picture of the two pins that need to be connected on the n2?

• Put a toggle switch on the parking brake. The software will ask you to turn it on, then off, then on again, so you need this.
• Put another toggle switch on the speed sensor wire. If the AVIC receives any speed pulses, everything shuts off.
• Finally, put a toggle on the GPS wire. This is a coax wire, so you'll need a switch with two leads.

i tried the bypass on my avic n-2 and just got a black screen and nothing else.  so i scraped off the soder and it went back to original.  got any ideas?

please help

footer

I have completed the bypass and it works like a charm.....For anyone who will be using solder to complete the bypass be careful first of all.  Second you need to clean the points and area between because there is a protective wax on the board.   Also in order to not get the black screen you need to make sure that when you do solder the points together that the solder is not touching the metal piece close by on the end of the board.  If it is touching it will ground out the pins and you will not complete the circuit.  If you do it correctly and the solder is not touching the metal and only touching the 2 pins you have a working unit.

p_gcustomerservice@yahoo.com is my e-mail address if you have any questions.

i been here for years but i never posted nothing had another account but lost the pasword and the email i was using was paid and canceled. anyway my fist posts ,i had an n2 and i did this modification long time ago when the instructions first came out in the newsgroups ,worked fine but my radio failed from the mecanism wont open or close , so i had to returned for warranty ,what i did , i reverted the mod ,desolder the jumper ,get wax from another radio put it in place
,clean the solder and i found a look alike sticker from another radio and remove d it with aheat gun.   i sent it for service and it returned back flawless no problems so i did the mod again and its working like a charm.   so think that you might need warranty for a non mod related issue in the future and make a clean job so you can revert it anytime if you can take the sticker with a heat gun and save it just in case.   after i reverted the mod , i really coulnt tell it was modded.  hope it helps.

Hello all,

I just wanted to say that the instructions on how to bypass the lock feature of the N2 works wonderfully.  I just bought might on 11/22/2005 and i dropped a piece of solder on two the two connections and grounded the light green wire and it works.  DO BELIEVE THE POST THAT SAYS IT DOESN'T WORK. 

Did you check in the menu(i think its in initial or setup) to make sure the camera input is turned on?  Maybe it defaulted to 'off' when you pulled it out of the car to do the bypass.  Then you should just run the camera through the camera input and put the dvd in the N2 and switch the source to dvd.  You should have both with no problems

bdeppen wrote:

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I just did the bypass and it works perfectly except for one thing, my rear camera no longer works.  I read the DVD is piped through the rear camera which allows it to play while driving.  I was just wondering if there is anyway I can have the bypass work, and my rear camera.  If all else fails I was thinking about putting my rear camera in my AUX IN, but I would like it to be available when I put my truck in reverse or easily access from the NAV menu when driving.  If anyone has the same problem or an idea to solve my problem, please share. thanks

---

Ok I have recieved quite a few e-mails from people wanting better instructions on how to complete this bypass for the AVIC-N2.  Well here they are with some solutions for problems that you may run into:

Yes......Well first of all, you should have experience soldering if you are going to do it, and I'm not trying to make fun of you but this is exactly why.  You didn't solder the points in the correct way, there should have been no reason to cut the wire.  You should just drip a small ball, (keyword being "drip") between the points. 

If you do it correctly you can heat up the solder enough to make it fall down into the recessed areas where the pins were.  It will still complete the circuit without the pins being there as long as you heat it up enough to get it down in the holes. 

Any questions p_gcustomerservice@yahoo.com

Rick

Yes, That is what I was saying.  You shouldn't have to cut away the peice.  Just use standard iron solder, and let a small ball of solder drip between the two points and into the holes where the pins are missing.  There should be no cutting involved.  You should be able to heat up the solder enough that it breaks away from the wire and drips into the spot that you want it to. 

Basically just get the solder to sit into the holes where the pins were and then connect the two points, the pins don't need to be there.

Any questions p_gcustomerservice@yahoo.com

Rick

[QUOTE=heavy02gt]has anyone else tried the circuit tracing pen? it seems like this would be the easiest way and most accurate to use.. any input?[/QUO

Here's one for you. I bought a n2 on ebay. Put it in my car monday. Found this site and was reading the threads and decided to 'unlock' my unit. I took it out and behold, the tape was gone and on further looking found that someone had tried to do the bypass and did not succeed. he left a hole on one side that could not be soldered again. I read about the trace pen and decided to try it.

I went to Rat Shack today 12/2  and bought part number 6404341 contact cleaner pen and Part number 6404339 circuit writer pen.

Cleaned the area good with the cleaner pen and wiped it with a qtip. Took the circuitwriter pen and followed the directions to a t, and put down a line and filled the hole at the same time. took it out to the car and it works   GREAT . A big thankyou to the person who suggested it and I will always use the pen on boards from now on......

I'm very new when it comes to modifying boards.  I have experience installing stereos but not messing with boards. 

Thats why I would like to know if anyone has pictures of the actual pins?  Can you post them?

Also, the CircuitWriter seems easy, but will it create any problems because the actual conductive ink lays on the board?  Will it heat, will it create a short, etc?  Any help with this question will be greatly appreciated.

Please remember, I'm very new to this and just want some help and information.

Thank you all.

hey guys,

newbie to the site, but not to car audio.

I have an avic-n2 and i did the soldering bypass and it works great.

to the guys who say it blanks out the screen, you dripped solder on the board which created a connection between one or both of the pins and the board. This shorts out the radio, but does not kill the radio.  just scrape the solder off and try again.

I personally took a piece of 18 gauge speaker wire, split it into the two seperate pieces and only used one piece.

I cut it about an inch long and sliced off about 2mm of the rubber coating from both sides.

i then wrapped some solder around the exposed copper wire and tapped it with my soldering iron untill it melted to the wire.

Then I touched the wire to one pin at a time and tapped the WIRE with the soldering iron until the solder made a conection to the pins. 

I then stuffed the rest of the wire into the unit and replaced the silver sticker.

The bypass is complete and it works.

Just as some aditional info, (not sure if this has to do with the bypass) but I have xm radio hooked up and when in the navigation view, rear view, and driver view I keep getting a pop up saying, "XM Updating, Please Wait."  I press OK on the screenand it goes away briefly but then pops up again. Is anyone else having this problem?  I have had the XM hooked up now for going on three months.  I doubt it takes that long to update.  Any info regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Alan Adams

lukeforce wrote:

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So....Connecting the two pins allows unlimited access to the navi features while mobile...?   Or just allows u to watch dvd while mobile...?

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For the AVIC-N2 of course....

Both

lukeforce wrote:

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So....Connecting the two pins allows unlimited access to the navi features while mobile...?   Or just allows u to watch dvd while mobile...?

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For the AVIC-N2 of course....

This is the first time I have ever posted anything in a forum.  I waited awhile to decide whther or not to do the r-197 pin mod because I wanted to see if something else was discovered.  I finally gave in despite those "pioneer sabatoge team" posts.  We followed the directions by removing the silver sticker from the bottom, using an alcohol pen from radio shack and a Q-Tip to remove the wax.  Then we used the curcuit writer to connect the pins.  Everything works great.  No problem.  We took the silver sticker off with a razor and applied it to a wax paper for reuse.  If anything goes wrong I think I should be able to use the alcohol pen to "erase" the bridge and apply wax then reuse the sticker.  That way I still have my warranty.  Here are the links for the products that I used.  I am in no way an expert in soldering or electronics but I did this with no problem at all.

CurcuitWriter:  https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2104395&cp

ContactCleaner:  https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2103701&cp

Does anybody know how to do the Tri-Zone capability of the AVIC-N2?  I thought that the NAVI can be on the main screen, while dvd is on the external screens, and listen to the radio all at the same time.

The installer is an idiot.  Hope you didn't let him install your unit.  The sticker only indicates what version of software it was shipped with. 

mxmfr] wrote:

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just purchased one of these and it had a red sticker dot about the size of a penny on the box. I asked the installer if he knew about the bypass by soldering the two r-197 pins. he did and he told me the red dot sticker on the box meant it was a newer version and could not be bypassed like that. is this true? anyone know what the sticker means?

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Yes

scarface78 wrote:

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Question about AVIC-N2. I did the BYPASS on my Unit and it works prefect. My question is: I'm running software VERSION 1.1 if I upgrade my AVIC-N2 to software version 1.2 will the BYPASS still work? Please let me know.

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as stated here for the AVIC-N2 lockout bypass:  Underneath the MAIN unit (not the hideaway) is a small silver sticker, peel this back.  There are two contacts with the label "R197".  Drop a bit of solder between these to connect them. Also, you must ground the Parking Brake wire.

my installer told me you dont ground the brake wire anymore that was for the N1. he said it needs resistance.

so do you ground or do you add resistance to the wire?

Register your product on their website.  It fixes a few bugs (like the updating message from the navtraffic xm tuner.)  It does not affect the bypass

jester10305 wrote:

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I have the AVIC-N2.  How do I get the software version 1.2 and what are the updates?  I have version 1.1.  Is it worth upgrading?  I hope it does not interfere with my bypass.

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whtcrxghst wrote:

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Register your product on their website.  It fixes a few bugs (like the updating message from the navtraffic xm tuner.)  It does not affect the bypass

jester10305 wrote:

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I have the AVIC-N2.  How do I get the software version 1.2 and what are the updates?  I have version 1.1.  Is it worth upgrading?  I hope it does not interfere with my bypass.

---

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I registered a few months ago and still have not received any new software.

Try calling then.  They may have only sent it to people that complained of the NavTraffic issue

bajaclawz71 wrote:

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whtcrxghst wrote:

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Register your product on their website.  It fixes a few bugs (like the updating message from the navtraffic xm tuner.)  It does not affect the bypass

jester10305 wrote:

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I have the AVIC-N2.  How do I get the software version 1.2 and what are the updates?  I have version 1.1.  Is it worth upgrading?  I hope it does not interfere with my bypass.

---

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I registered a few months ago and still have not received any new software.

---

everyone is saying ground the parking brake wire when the instructions are telling you to connect it to the POWER side of the Parking brake wire.  Does applying the bypass to the R197 pins change that?.. It says it in plain text on page 11. Light Green - Used to detect the ON/OFF status of the parking brake.  This lead must be connected to the power supply side of the parking brake switch. If this connection is made incorrectly or omitted, certain functions of your navigation system will be unusable.

Ground the wire.  Its been posted here a dozen times.  The manual states that because it is instructing you how to install the unit "properly" but when you install it properly, it locks you out, so don't follow the manual.  Do the R197 bypass and ground the light green parking brake wire.  End of story

onesicks10 wrote:

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everyone is saying ground the parking brake wire when the instructions are telling you to connect it to the POWER side of the Parking brake wire.  Does applying the bypass to the R197 pins change that?.. It says it in plain text on page 11. Light Green - Used to detect the ON/OFF status of the parking brake.  This lead must be connected to the power supply side of the parking brake switch. If this connection is made incorrectly or omitted, certain functions of your navigation system will be unusable.

---

That message went away on mine after a couple hundred miles.  As for your amps, I responded to your other post but there is no real reason to turn your amps off while the car is running.  If no music is playing, it is very very little draw on your electrical system and it is charging anyway.  It would only be a problem if your amps were staying on while the car was off

options20002001 wrote:

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Am I doing something wrong?

I installed my AVIC-D1 today. Did the mod by inserting a pin into the empty slot (next to the ground wire). Attached this wire to the green brake wire and grounded them both. Turned the car on. Immediately the NAV unit turns on and a warning comes....something like "CAUTION: System detected improper connection of parking brake lead........Please check manual for safe operation. OK." I press OK and it then goes into regular operation. Is this normal? Do others (who have successfully done AVIC-D1 mod) see this warning? How do you get rid of it?

I haven't tried anything else yet....except the built-in CD player. Sounds fantastic.

Is there a way to turn the unit completely off? My amps are connected to it and I don't want them to be on all the time when the car is running!!

Thanks for helping this newbie.

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mxmfr] wrote:

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orked on my avic-n2. very easy and no problems.

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Also Worked On My AVIC N-2,I Grabbed my soldering iron,went and purchased some new electrical solder since i do value my $1500+ Pioneer Unit.Broke down my dash and pulled my unit out my cadilac,unpluged everything,took my unit in the house,un-screwed those tiny four screws on the front someone forgot to mention! slide my unit out the sleeve,found that lil silver sticker,peeled it back and revealed the two diods,put my solder line on the two diods and carefully melted a small bead and worked with it between the two contacts where it eventually settled evenly.and to finish it off,i took my glue gun and dropped a bead of hot glue on top to make sure that for future reference nothing goes anywhere.i nervously put my unit back together.losing that silver sticker somehow,anyway i plugged all my connections back up,put my dash back together,loaded my software dvd again and set everything,took a drive to get something to eat,and pumped my four 12" HX2's and two 15" solobarics driven by my PPI's and began smilling all the way there! no prohibitted screen! Yessss!Then ofcourse i had to check my navigation ,it  works perfectlly! Yesssss! It Worked! Thank You! Now its the radio i allways wanted. (except the fact it doesnt play WMA).Not a problem i just converted all my audio that was in WMA to MP3 with a converter off the net.

i just got one ... going to install in my cadillac CTS... 2005, anyone else install this unit in a CTS?  dont know how it's gonna be because of the info center in my car.

acdgotcurb you get mad props!! Aluminum foil with small packing peanut works soooo well!!

The only thing you want to still really be carefull on is removing the silver sticker. Make sure you get that bad boy heated up good, or else it will loose the glue on it. I guess you could always apply more if you had to send the unit in for some reason.

Got mine in today. Looks like the NAV and DVD work, well and I'm not hooked up to the reverse light indicator or VCM (Vehicle control module). Can someone explain to me the advantage of hooking up these two things?

It got to dark to finnish, but I do plan on doing it with a really bad hangover tomorrow!!

It is true.  No bypass for N1s with the cndv50 software

abadgti wrote:

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Just so im clear. Is it true that if you have the N1 with updated software the bypass wont work? Cause I have the N1 and grounded the ebrake wire and I can't watch DVDs while driving. When I get over 5mph the warning screen pops up. Can anyone help? THanks.

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Look at your nav disk.  Tealish is CNDV50, Yellow is the one CNDV40

abadgti wrote:

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Im not even sure what software is on it. Im guessing its the update since the bypass didn't work. Is it possible to reinstall the old software??

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Did you take the cage off?

akyyyy wrote:

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i cannot find this sticker, i have no silver sticker on the bottom of my N2, can someone help me or should me a pic.. i will take a pic of my unit in a few hrs, pls let me know

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Unscrew the four little screws and slide off the cage.  The silver sticker should be obvious once you do that. 

akyyyy wrote:

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sticker is yellow and no i did not take anything off... was i suppose to? if so, please advise on how to take this 'cage' off... i think i know what you're refering to, but i might be mistaken, can u explain on the cage. i think you're talking about that sleeve that goes over the unit, slides on... i tried sliding it off but it's screwed onto the from back of the face (on the black part) do i remove any screws?

thanks

---

Yes, you will have to revert back to that software version though.  You can probably find out how on this board or there are people selling it on ebay

abadgti wrote:

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So if I get the yellow disc would I be able to bypass the DVD safeguard?

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thanks ill do this... just wondering, what is that cage used for anyway?

whtcrxghst wrote:

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Unscrew the four little screws and slide off the cage.  The silver sticker should be obvious once you do that. 

akyyyy wrote:

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sticker is yellow and no i did not take anything off... was i suppose to? if so, please advise on how to take this 'cage' off... i think i know what you're refering to, but i might be mistaken, can u explain on the cage. i think you're talking about that sleeve that goes over the unit, slides on... i tried sliding it off but it's screwed onto the from back of the face (on the black part) do i remove any screws?

thanks

---

---

thanks ill do this... just wondering, what is that cage used for anyway?

whtcrxghst wrote:

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Unscrew the four little screws and slide off the cage.  The silver sticker should be obvious once you do that. 

akyyyy wrote:

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sticker is yellow and no i did not take anything off... was i suppose to? if so, please advise on how to take this 'cage' off... i think i know what you're refering to, but i might be mistaken, can u explain on the cage. i think you're talking about that sleeve that goes over the unit, slides on... i tried sliding it off but it's screwed onto the from back of the face (on the black part) do i remove any screws?

thanks

---

---

thanks ill do this... just wondering, what is that cage used for anyway?

[QUOTE=whtcrxghst]

You put the cage in first (unscrewed from the AVIC-N2) you can then bend the brackets on the top and bottom of the cage to secure it to the opening where you will be installing the in-dash.  Then slide the AVIC-N2 back into the cage and screw the four small screws back into the cage to keep the in-dash from moving.  You can also adjust the black brackets on the sides of the in-dash according to how much you need the unit to come out from the dash.

Please tell me why I cant just use conductive pen?

jester10305 wrote:

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You can use the conductive pen.  I used it and it worked.  Just use an alcohol based contact cleaner pen first to ensure good contact.

---

I used both pens mentioned above when I got my AVIC-N2 before new years and it was a complete success.  Fully bypassed.  Thanks again.

when every1 on the board seems to be worried about melting wax on the board this seems a very logical alternative does it not? Are there any disadvantages to this method?

-thanx

Scott

dreaddi wrote:

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< language=>postamble(); I have the done the N2 bypass and eveything seemed okay but when i begin to drive the functions lockout again. What is the problem with my system?

---

Did you ground the parking brake wire?  No toggle switch needed.

I have ground it to the same ground wire as the radio. I know i soldered correctly for after i have done that and touched the parking wire to ground everything came up except my traffic nav. When i connect everything and begin to pull off it locked up again.

Now one more question, i had a N1 and it was stolen then i got a N2 but i use the same antenna would this give me the no traffic funtion for i have paid for the service already?

Hello Peeps: I have a question and a comment for you all:

Back in June of 2005 i bought a AVIC-D1 with the 1.2 version map disc. I did the harness wire mod and it worked fine for a month or so and then the unit started giveing me problems. I dont think they are related to the mod however. THe navi is freezing contantly .  i can go for mile and the map freezes then it will come back to where i am located. Anyways it keps gettign worse and worse well finally last week i decided to exchange it from where i bought it. I get it home today and swap the unit out of the dash : check the map disc to make sure i didnt have a different version and everythign looks good. I boot the unit up and the first thing i notice that is difference is a screen the states teh the parking break wire is not properly installed or the navi is inilizing upon initialization or fix of the parking breakl wire the message will go away. you press ok and then the normal navio map agreement window is there. you click ok and everythign seems to be normal. all functions and movies even play via input. Now this is where things relaly change. sitting still in the car everythign is fine however when you move past 10 mph or so a attention screen appears in the screen and states that watching a movie is not permitted while driving. HMMM i have neever seem this one before and have done the mods on many D1's..... now it seems as though the D1 now is gyro driven and shuts out at 10mph or so. I didnt check the harware revision on the old unit however if my memory serves me correctly i think it is diffferent. ....

So any help is great...................thanks guys (and some girls) 

dreaddi wrote:

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< language=>postamble(); I have ground it to the same ground wire as the radio. I know i soldered correctly for after i have done that and touched the parking wire to ground everything came up except my traffic nav. When i connect everything and begin to pull off it locked up again.

Now one more question, i had a N1 and it was stolen then i got a N2 but i use the same antenna would this give me the no traffic funtion for i have paid for the service already?

---

Ok, every ground wire should have it's own ground.  Don't use the same one, just ground the parking brake wire somewhere else.  Also, once you connect the AVIC and ground, try resetting it, sometimes the system just needs to be reset so that the NavTraffic info works again.

The parking brake message will go away with time, or at least mine did.  As for the other one, maybe your "extra" ground wire came loose in the swap.  Make sure that pin is snapped in all the way

amb4life wrote:

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Hello Peeps: I have a question and a comment for you all:

Back in June of 2005 i bought a AVIC-D1 with the 1.2 version map disc. I did the harness wire mod and it worked fine for a month or so and then the unit started giveing me problems. I dont think they are related to the mod however. THe navi is freezing contantly .  i can go for mile and the map freezes then it will come back to where i am located. Anyways it keps gettign worse and worse well finally last week i decided to exchange it from where i bought it. I get it home today and swap the unit out of the dash : check the map disc to make sure i didnt have a different version and everythign looks good. I boot the unit up and the first thing i notice that is difference is a screen the states teh the parking break wire is not properly installed or the navi is inilizing upon initialization or fix of the parking breakl wire the message will go away. you press ok and then the normal navio map agreement window is there. you click ok and everythign seems to be normal. all functions and movies even play via input. Now this is where things relaly change. sitting still in the car everythign is fine however when you move past 10 mph or so a attention screen appears in the screen and states that watching a movie is not permitted while driving. HMMM i have neever seem this one before and have done the mods on many D1's..... now it seems as though the D1 now is gyro driven and shuts out at 10mph or so. I didnt check the harware revision on the old unit however if my memory serves me correctly i think it is diffferent. ....

So any help is great...................thanks guys (and some girls) 

---

full_flex wrote:

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dreaddi wrote:

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< language=>postamble(); I have ground it to the same ground wire as the radio. I know i soldered correctly for after i have done that and touched the parking wire to ground everything came up except my traffic nav. When i connect everything and begin to pull off it locked up again.

Now one more question, i had a N1 and it was stolen then i got a N2 but i use the same antenna would this give me the no traffic funtion for i have paid for the service already?

---

Ok, every ground wire should have it's own ground.  Don't use the same one, just ground the parking brake wire somewhere else.  Also, once you connect the AVIC and ground, try resetting it, sometimes the system just needs to be reset so that the NavTraffic info works again.

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I will do this for i have done the reset before on both the head and brain. This did get it to work for a few lapse in the parking lot but the NavTraffic didn't work but when shutting down then powering back up...the system locked out again when driving off as before. I will do another installation of the radio to have a complete clean install with advice from you in here. Now when i add the Xpv dvd changer; how would i install the parking brake wire?

To ground

dreaddi wrote:

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I will do this for i have done the reset before on both the head and brain. This did get it to work for a few lapse in the parking lot but the NavTraffic didn't work but when shutting down then powering back up...the system locked out again when driving off as before. I will do another installation of the radio to have a complete clean install with advice from you in here. Now when i add the Xpv dvd changer; how would i install the parking brake wire?

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tritop wrote:

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I normally don't repond to forums but in this case I feel obligated.  I recently bought a new N2 on the internet new for $1,110.00.  I had it installed and made the modification as outlined in the instructions.  It work like a champ.  I have had no problems what so ever.  Additionally, I had a switch put in that allows the system to work as designed in case I need to shut it off.  This really works.

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What switch did you installed?

Regarding the AVIC-N2 bypass!  I have an electronic background on both theory and hands-on.  I read in one comment that there would be a connector on the pins if pioneer wanted to use R-197.  Not true if they wanted to bridge two processors or circuits they would just put in a jumper bar.  I did the bypass on the back of the unit and everything is opened up.  If you do not have soldering skills though I recommend that you get a professional to do it for you.  You need a low powered solder iron and a steady hand.

o0odvs1o0o wrote:

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Well, as promised, I have returned to let you all know the results of my AVIC-N2 install... I went today to have my installer do the 'solder trick' to the AVIC-N2, and it took him about 2 minutes to do it! Just peeled back the silver tape and then put a bit of solder between the 2 points, oila!! works like a charm! just the way it SHOULD! It should be shipped this way with a disclaimer and option to change it... anyway, I can now watch movies and perform all nav functions while driving! My camera, voice module, remote and every other function works PERFECT, exactly how it used to and it even works better now! I have a 2004 Mercedes CLK 500 AMG , so if it works with my car, it will work on yours!! Do be warned, the only 'problem' is that it will void your Pioneer warranty... big whoop! Id rather have these features and worry about the warranty later!! I do recommend having a professional do the install and especially this mod, unless you really know what you are doing... It was like pulling teeth just getting a person to do the install in my car, noone is able to do it on this particular car due to the fiber optic connections it has, so I had to go through my Mercedes rep who knew of one person in the area that works on these cars all the time, he was great and did a fantastic job with everything!! It is worth getting someone who knows what they are doing, as the install gets done very cleanly... my camera is located BEHIND my license plate and all you see is a small hole! not the cam... nice!... remember we are talking about a $1,000+ piece of equipment, and you wouldnt really want to have a $1,000 paper weight would you? ***Those people who say it does not work, either 1: Are lying or 2: dont know what the hell they are doing, tried it and screwed their unit up!*** BOTTOM LINE- THE SOLDER MOD WORKS 100% PEFFECT!!!

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Hey you should post a pic of the car and a close shoot of the tag showing the camera. I love that car and is one of the next things on my list to buy. My Agusta is next but thanks for the info and feedback as promised....

I attempted to bypass trick on the avic n2 I soldered the two leads under the silver sticker and grounded the brake wire and it DID NOT WORK I was told that it may be because my unit was manufactured in 2005. I believe that it may have worked on the 2004 avic n2 units and pioneer made a change in 2005 and now the solder trick no longer works.

What did work to bypass on the N2. Well here it is.

I installed a toggle switch to shut off the speed sensor wire and a 2nd toggle on the brake wire.

The only way to bypass the N2 is shut off the speed sensor switch, then turn on the brake switch and disconnect the GPS antenna from the hideaway.  My hideaway is mounted under the console with easy access by removing the cup holder. I removed the small plastic clip from the grey tip of the GPS antenna plug, this allows me to plug and unplug the antenna much easier. This allows me to watch dvd while driving, without using the rear camera input.

Also shutting off the speed sens switch while the GPS antenna is plugged in allows me to use all of the Navigation features while moving, such as simply hitting the return home feature, and address lookup.

Does anyone know if it would be possible to install a toggle switch on the GPS antenna? If this is possible please let me know.

I do not want to cut the wire as it may interupt the impedance. How would I add a switch to the antenna, I went to radio shack and the sales rep scratched his head and couldn't help. The closest i got to a solution was at Fryes where I found a Garmin GPS antenna connector that will convert the avic antenna conection to a RCA cable. I would have costed about 40 bucks for the parts to even attempt to install a switch on the GPS antenna without cutting the wire.

Pioneer did not change anything during production.  We did one that was manu. Sept. 2005 and it took all of 30 seconds to bypass just like the rest.  Maybe the protective wax around the leads was your problem, or a bad ground

n2tahoe wrote:

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I attempted to bypass trick on the avic n2 I soldered the two leads under the silver sticker and grounded the brake wire and it DID NOT WORK I was told that it may be because my unit was manufactured in 2005. I believe that it may have worked on the 2004 avic n2 units and pioneer made a change in 2005 and now the solder trick no longer works.

What did work to bypass on the N2. Well here it is.

I installed a toggle switch to shut off the speed sensor wire and a 2nd toggle on the brake wire.

The only way to bypass the N2 is shut off the speed sensor switch, then turn on the brake switch and disconnect the GPS antenna from the hideaway.  My hideaway is mounted under the console with easy access by removing the cup holder. I removed the small plastic clip from the grey tip of the GPS antenna plug, this allows me to plug and unplug the antenna much easier. This allows me to watch dvd while driving, without using the rear camera input.

Also shutting off the speed sens switch while the GPS antenna is plugged in allows me to use all of the Navigation features while moving, such as simply hitting the return home feature, and address lookup.

Does anyone know if it would be possible to install a toggle switch on the GPS antenna? If this is possible please let me know.

I do not want to cut the wire as it may interupt the impedance. How would I add a switch to the antenna, I went to radio shack and the sales rep scratched his head and couldn't help. The closest i got to a solution was at Fryes where I found a Garmin GPS antenna connector that will convert the avic antenna conection to a RCA cable. I would have costed about 40 bucks for the parts to even attempt to install a switch on the GPS antenna without cutting the wire.

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It does seem too simple, but its simple for a reason.  Pioneer uses the same exact hardware (with different software) for the units they sell in Europe (see the AVIC-X1) and Asia.  Watching front seat video is legal there so Pioneer had to build in an easy way to make it work.  Not sure why they thought a sticker would keep people out, but it makes sense if you think about it--All they do is leave the sticker off and solder in something between the points for overseas units.

[/QUOTE]
Also- I believe Pioneer definitly put these leads there for this trick to work, they want to sell these units but are stuck behind 'laws' telling them they need to have warning signs, etc... unfortunately, we live in a very litiguous world, people always want to sue someone and not take ownership for their mistakes!! so companies need to protect themselves by putting up warnings, etc... but Pioneer definitly put these leads there and then 'leaked' the info, they wont admit it, but they did it. Its just too simple, these TWO leads are sitting there for you to mod so these functions become active... comon!! But we know! [/QUOTE]

n2tahoe wrote:

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Does anyone know if it would be possible to install a toggle switch on the GPS antenna? If this is possible please let me know.

I do not want to cut the wire as it may interupt the impedance. How would I add a switch to the antenna, I went to radio shack and the sales rep scratched his head and couldn't help. The closest i got to a solution was at Fryes where I found a Garmin GPS antenna connector that will convert the avic antenna conection to a RCA cable. I would have costed about 40 bucks for the parts to even attempt to install a switch on the GPS antenna without cutting the wire.

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No it is not possible to install a switch on the GPS wire. It is coax and carries very high frequencies 'Microwave". I even doubt that you could find a relay to handle that frequency at a reasonable cost.

Now The R-197 mod does work, if it did not work for you then you have other issues such as wax insulating the connection, or you added so much solder that you grounded it out.

Now everyone has there own ways of doing this mod. I used a 0-ohm 0603 resistor in that location because it was availible to me, but I will comment on those radio shack pens. Those pens were designed to repair a trace and after that trace is repaired your supposed to tin it with solder.

What I am saying here is that in the future some if not all of you that used these radio shack pens will end up with intermittants.

For all the ppl searching this website and this post going 'wtf does this bypass for the n2 work or not?' && are scared to try it because they dont want to f*kk up there n2. IT DOES WORK . Got my audio installer to do it, and it works perfectly. The story about it being there for benchmarking purposes while testing is TRUE...im only posting this because i was one of those ppl who were skeptic about trying it but now i know..so ya...its Works. :D

-triz

If you have an N2, you might consider getting the voice activation mic.  I just say OK and the screen goes away.  The bypass will fix the navi lockout

kf6kmx wrote:

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2) kill that %$&^# white warning that comes up EVERY time the radio powers on.. Ok, I get the point, THEY arent responsible if I'm an idiot, I am.. enough already..
Garmin units at least time out on their own after about a minute and it goes to the nav screen.. in some vehicles (large RV's for instance) that radio isnt always close to the driver and convienient to keep having to hit the screen to clear that msg.. if they want the msg there, they should have a timer in it like Garmin to clear after a certain time or distance has elapsed..

My question is, does that mod do both of those? From reading, it appears it does do the nav functions, but will it clear the annoy screen?

Thanks

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Serious problem here guys--I disconnected the unit, tried to perform the bypass, reconnected the unit, and I've got nothing. As in, the security light on the front comes on and is flashing, but the unit won't turn on.

I removed the solder, and the same result--flashing security light, no operation of the unit. Pressed the reset button multiple times, and it looks like nothing is helping out...

Hello All,

The new software will not lock-out the bypass.  The whole purpose of the bypass is actually to allow pioneer to use the same unit for both the US and Europe.  The bypass is exactly the same thing that pioneer actually does to produce the unit for Europe. 

As far as for the member about 4 posts up that said his unit wouldn't work but the security light is on......You are best off to redo your solder.  Make sure that the solder is only touching the 2 points and not the metal frame nearby.  If you redo it a couple times it should work.  Sometimes it only makes just enough connection to screw with the unit.  So the screen goes black because it is confused or the connection is grounded out.  Make sure also to clean the area around the pins with some rubbing alcohol so that it makes a good connection. 

Thanks,

Rick

p_gcustomerservice@yahoo.com

Does anyone, say someone that has the inside scoop on Pioneer, know if there will be a way to bypass the lockout feature in the new soon to be released Avic-N3?  I'm assuming there will be one and I'm thinking Pioneer will make it more difficult to bypass this safety feature.  I wish someone, Pioneer in particular, would come up with a way for the front or rear passenger to control the features the full features of the Avic while the car is in motion without us having to do this bypass.  Maybe another touchscreen monitor for the passenger side that has all the full features while in motion while the actual Avic has the limited features while in motion, but does have all the features when not in motion.  I don't know what do you think out there?  Can this be done?  Is there a better way then the present way of doing this?

The unit will operate just fine but you will have to go back in and ground the parking brake wire (light green) to either the black wire or the car chasis.  Otherwise you will have to put on your parking brake every time you want to use it.

Rick

Hello people,

I'm new to the forum and I ran into this forum in the search of a way to modified my one week old AVIC N2.  I don't watch DVD when I drive but not having the full access to nav function is most ridiculous thing I ever seen.  I have no background on installation and I don't even know how to remove the unit out from the dash.  Anyone in NYC area willing to help out?  I am more than willing to pay for the service rendered.  Thank you guys in advance.

mdxer] wrote:

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P>Hello people,

I'm new to the forum and I ran into this forum in the search of a way to modified my one week old AVIC N2.  I don't watch DVD when I drive but not having the full access to nav function is most ridiculous thing I ever seen.  I have no background on installation and I don't even know how to remove the unit out from the dash.  Anyone in NYC area willing to help out?  I am more than willing to pay for the service rendered.  Thank you guys in advance.

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What town are you located in, when you say NYC?

Well, I am sold.  I haven't taken her for a test drive yet, but I just did the bypass on my 2003 Cobra vert and everything seems to work.  I won't know for sure until I take her for a test drive.  I will do that shortly, I just got done putting the dash back together.

I know I am  a newbie, but I did this bypass in about 10 minutes.  It took me about 30 minutes to get the dash out and about 15 minutes to get it back in so all in all the entire evolution from start to finish was about an hour.  Results are great.  I have  a 6 disc DVD changer that works perfectly now REGARDLESS of whether or not the parking brake is up.  I, like most people, do not intend on driving with a movie on, but it will be so nice now not to have to pull over to change my route on the NAV system!

3forty7 wrote:

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I didnt need the forum to learn how to bypass the n2 or the d1,I do this every day!! This forum is extremely helpful to people like you and others on this board,but as for me I am a certified tech and do this for a living. I have the tech information and provide tech information to others when I stumble upon it. I said I would not bypass the unit if it was my own simply because it will void your warranty. I install these units on a daily basis and the failure rate within a few years is too high to go without a warranty. Thats just my 2 cents.

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I don't think it would void the warranty on the D1 since no soldering is involved.  It's just grounding some wires on the harness.  If you sent it in for repairs they wouldn't know.

Pleast someone correct me if i'm wrong.

So the Pioneer website shows the new D2, looks just like the D1 with the same exact features. Anyway,  I checked out the page for the D1 and it states that the update software is available for the D1 now to version 1.2  Anyone think this will mess with the bypass?

Here's the quote from the pioneer page

"Q:  What is the latest available software version for the AVIC-D1?
A:  The latest version is AVIC-D1 Application v1.2, and is available to registered customers (please make sure to register your AVIC-D1 here).  This update fixes several minor issues, including the 24 hour clock display, "XM Updating" screen, and general XM NavTraffic improvements."

It does not affect the bypass

trdtim wrote:

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So the Pioneer website shows the new D2, looks just like the D1 with the same exact features. Anyway,  I checked out the page for the D1 and it states that the update software is available for the D1 now to version 1.2  Anyone think this will mess with the bypass?

Here's the quote from the pioneer page

"Q:  What is the latest available software version for the AVIC-D1?
A:  The latest version is AVIC-D1 Application v1.2, and is available to registered customers (please make sure to register your AVIC-D1 here).  This update fixes several minor issues, including the 24 hour clock display, "XM Updating" screen, and general XM NavTraffic improvements."

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[QUOTE=o0odvs1o0o]
Detailed City Map: N2= 12 N3= 23
Whatever that means??

**If you live in one of the detailed metro areas, you can zoom in to the point of seeing the buildings, parks, stadiums, etc. mapped out exactly to how they are blueprinted.  Very cool, looks almost three dimensional.  Some are done to the point of seeing the fairways on a golf course.

Ipod Adapter Ready: N2= Yes (External) N3= Yes (Full Control)
Looks like the controls are on the unit itself?!

**The ipod display takes up the entire touchscreen, meaning you can see all the song information at once, browse through playlists, genres, albums, ect. with six lines showing up on screen instead of one like the n2.  It is also much, much, much faster.  The N2 is terribly slow when using the ipod adaptor, much improved now.

**One other thing you forgot is the full screen XM display.  Just like they had on the D1--gives you channel lists, logos, and much more song information.  Sirius is similar on the N3 but no logos

 Also, the XM traffic option shouldnt be so much per month, its a nice option to have, but big deal, how often would you REALLY use it?! It should be like $50/year or something... well, enough of me ranting... I got things to do... hehehe... [QUOTE]

**If you already have XM for audio, the traffic service is $3.99 ($47.88 per year.)

In summary, the N2 is great, the N3 is better.  And cheaper. 

At CES, they said a very small amount of Z1s will ship in March, but more readily available in April.  Probably won't know anything about a bypass until then

o0odvs1o0o wrote:

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I did a search on the Z1- it looks like it is currently available! I wish I would've been able to get the Z1 at the time, instead of my N2!! oh well, next time... the hdd instead of a dvd is SO MUCH BETTER! DVD nav sucks... Im going to be getting the BMW X5 within the next year or so, I never buy brand new, I get my cars at 1 year old, so a majority of the cost comes off but the car is still brand new with a warranty... SO, if this X5 does not have any nav, I will definitly be getting the Z1, BUT ONLY if there is a bypass mod for the nav functions and watching movies (for passengers) while driving.. anyone know what the deal is with the Z1 nav? is there a mod for this? Thanks!

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I did the bypass on the D1 Friday. the empty space for the wire was above the ground wire and next to the yellow wire. make sure you hit the reset button when you power up the D1.  very easy and it works!

I haven't been here for awhile but still read the emails and yes it works...the message will popup but just hit ok or thru voice say ok and its gone until next car startup.  I have all my Nav function as it should have been from the start and dvd while i drive. No toggles or switches but i read a post to remove control when letting a friend drive your vehicle. I am going to instal such safety feature in my setup for my insurance will not be the backbone allowing them the free will to be careless in my monthly payments or paid vehicle. It just simple works so find someone to do it for you and lets move on to the next issue...

Is the N3 bypassable or not? Are the new models going to have a blockout for us folks wanting total control over our products?

scarface78 wrote:

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You can still fix it ... just drop tiny pieces of SOLDER where two PINS use to be and then connect them ... YOU HAVE TO BE REALLY CAREFULL

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i did that and it didnt work, where the pins used to be is like an orange color now and just looks like the board.  i think i just screwed myself out of a bypass. :(

I just used the trace-writer pen from radioshack, worked perfect and took less than 5 minutes.  Plus, I even erased it once with alochol to see how easy it would be to "unmod" it, worked perfect. 

Personally, I would recommend the trace writer as a extremely easy way to do it, that is easily reversable. ;)

By the way, will the new AVIC-N3 software (CNDV-60MP) work on the N2?  I'm curious as to if it would enable the newer icon style XM tuner control with better text display capabillity, since my current v1.2 N2 software is sorta lame the way it handles the XM Tuner.

And while were at it, is the AVIC-N3 even by-passable I wonder?