I thought I'd only have a couple of questions, but it seems I have more than I planned. ;) Instead of making a lot of posts, I thought I'd create this one to encompass all of my remaining questions.
Parking lights - I have the choice of a "+" or "-" output - I've switched the jumper on the RS to "-" and spliced into the pink/red wire. Is this OK, or am I overdriving the unit and should I be using a relay? Seems to be working just fine, but now I am second guessing myself. I also notice that the headlights come on, but I think this may be a setting in the BCM of the Jeep - if the lights are on when the ignition is turned off, they stay on for a few mins. I can diable that, and hopefully keep the headlights from running with the RS.
2nd status wire (WHITE/ blue) - I'd like to hook this to the rear defroster...I assume I'd be OK to splice into the wire near the rear defrost switch as this would (I'd assume) be a low-current portion of the circuit?
Door locks - I have the 456L learning module and am having a heck of a time programming it. I'll give it another go tomorrow, and if it doesn't work I'll end up using relays and resistors. Is there any (fairly easy) way to maintain the progressive door locks (driver unlocks on first button hit, the rest on 2nd)? I see that there is an output in the starter for this, just didn't know how/where to hook this up in the Jeep. I'd like to keep this feature if possible.
Rear glass release - same as the lights question - can I power the light GREEN / WHITE wire directly, or do I need to wire in a relay? I haven't confirmed yet, but I do believe the system in the Jeep is "-", and I know the RS will output "-".
I think (HOPE!) that's all of the remaining questions I have. Thanks so much for all of your help thus far, I feel great that I am almost there!
1)connecting it to the unit is fine, but i suggest you use a relay and isolate the parking lights so they dont switch on the headlights while flashing. THe resistor is a 910 ohms. wire it through a relay like so, and this should stop the headlights to flash or comming on.
85 - constant 12v
86 - parking light output from starter (-)
87 - Ground (high current) with 910ohm resistor.
87a - cut parking light wire, connect from Lamp Switch Side.
30 - to parking light wire (end that is cut)
Place a diode across terminal 85 and 86. Canthode to 85 and anode to 86.
2) you will wire the 2nd status wire WHITE/ blue to a relay. the unit only sends out 200 - 250mA (-) output and that is not sufficiant for the rear defrost; and the rear defrost is a positive latched
85 - constant 12volts
86 - 2nd status output (rear defrost)
87 - high current 12volts
30 - to rear defrost wire.
3) i never use modules for door locks. i just use the resistors. if you wish to do priority unlock for driver, you will need to go straight to the door motor and wire up a few relays.
4) trunk solenoids draw alot to pop open a trunk. go through a relay. the polarity is (-), but as i said, it draws quite abit so wire it through a relay.
85 - constant 12
86 - trunk output from unit (-)
87 - high current ground
30 - to trunk release wire.
Trunk Release: Light GREEN / WHITE @ Drivers Kick Panel or Pin 17 @ BCM in a 26 Pin Plug.
Excellent, thanks for the info, it's very much appreciated. I'm heading out to the garage now to hopefully finish it all up.
Back again...I cannot get this stupid lock module to work. Can anyone point me to a diagram of how to wire up the relays? I can't seem to find anything for a liberty here.
And, stupid question time...why couldn't I just use a 470 and 1425 ohm resistor in the RS's lock and unlock wires and just hook them up to the single wire in the vehicle? My brain is turning to mush after fighting with this thing for so long...is one a + feed and one a - feed or something? Or is that too much for the RS to drive?
Additionally, if I were to just supply a ground with the correct 470 and 1425 ohm resistance, shouldn't that trigger a lock/unlock?
Lastly, I see that there are various lock pulse durations that I can program. Defauly it .8s...I thought I remembered reading somewhere that some new chryslers use .4s? Could this be part of my issue? Anyone know what it should be programmed for?
darnit, nevermind. As soon as I posted this, I found it...back to the garage...
...and, back again - I used THIS schematic. As I couldn't find exactly 440 and 1.4K Ohm resistors, I used 470's wired in series....I put (3) 470's together for the 1.4K Ohm, and I put a single 470 for the 440. I figured this should be close enough...am I wrong?
I am getting nothing..the relays click and I have verified that I hooked them up correctly via the diagram. I am sure I have the correct wire as I had cut it and it definitely controls the door locks. When cut, the locks do not work. I've spliced it together with the output wires from the relays and I still get nothing from the remote starter. The door swich and stock fobs work just fine.
Any ideas?