08 tacoma, remote starter, immobilizer

Hello. 

I ordered a Valet 561T remote starter and XK05 PKT 2 Bypass Immobilizer for my 2008 Toyota Tacoma V6 5AT Double Cab from autotechs.com

This is what I received loose in a plain box with no instructions:

- Valet 561R module with wire harnesses and hood switch.

- IM05 PKT2 Omega Integration Module with wire harness and instructions

1) Did I get what I paid for? Does a 561T mean I get a 561R without a remote?  I plan on using my Toyota remote to activate remote starter by pushing 3 times.  The diagram for the IM05 and XK05 look like they are equivalent.

I have found installation instructions and owners guide for the 561T.  I'm assuming 08 is same as 06 Tacoma wiring which I've found in the12volts forum https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=83234&KW=2006+Toyota+Tacoma

2)  Can you confirm the brown wire used to activate the IM05 goes to "Remote Start Harness H2/5 Blue/White (-) 2nd status" on the 561?  Also, that the "4-Pin Satellite Harness" is not used?  I've read this here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=56456&KW=valet+561.

3) The Tacoma wiring for tachometer shows BLACK/ white at "data-link connector Pin 9."   Can you please tell me where this connector is located?  Is this the OBDII connector?

4) Finally, the Tacoma wiring doesn't have anything for Neutral Safety Switch input.  Page 17 of 561T instructions says vehicle might have factory starter lock-out so just connect toggle switch wire to ground.  Is this the way to go?  Why do you need this toggle (override) switch at all since you wouldn't be starting the truck if not in park or neutral?

Thanks for any advice!  Yes, I'm new to all of this other than doing Alpine alarms in a 65 Mustang and 64 Thunderbird many years ago.

/david

Thanks for changing the Topic.  I thought I had run out of room to add more detail.

After searching some more in the forums, I think I've found the answers:

1) I'll just hook up the 561R using 561T  instructions.

2) immmobilizer wire will go to blue/white on remote start harness (H2) or blue on 4pin satellite harness.

I'll have to go out and buy some relays and use the 4pin satellite harness since I've got second starter, second ignition, and for accessory (defrost). I should have got a valet model with the satellite included.

3) found location

4) will ground it

Sorry for the multiple question post.    Installers up here want $600-650  for a basic remote starter with installation.  Hope it's ok to post more questions once I go out and get a nice butane soldering iron and start the project. /david

I ordered a 561T kit but received this:

- 561R module

- connectors for all except 4-pin on LED side, toggle switch, and hood switch.

- no instructions, all loose in a plain white box.

Can someone please confirm if I should be returning this as a screwed up order?   

Twelvoltz, you are the King for replying so fast.  

And yes, I've even read some of your other posts where you declare that you are not related to the12V mastermind.

Cheers!

- Valet 561T in 08 Tacoma

Door lock pulse (purple wire) is way too short for the RS to activate (activation wire (-) WHITE/ blue).

Any suggestions?   

Also, any workaround to getting the factory remote to work when engine running?

Thanks!

Everything else regarding the RS works fine.  I can activate by manually grounding activation wire (I've got it set to start after 3 pulses) or by using the key in the lock and locking 3 times because the DMM shows a long pulse.   I tried the blue/red power lock motor and it seems too short as well.    Do you guys usually resort to using a relay?  I'll try that this afternoon.

Hmmm..   I want to start with 3 lock pushes on the factory fob.  I don't understand why you mention the need for 2 pulses.

Has anyone out there who has done a Tacoma run into problems with the purple door lock wire?

Like I say, if I ground the (-) WHITE/ blue activation wire 3 times myself, the RS starts the truck up.   Also, if I use the key in the door to lock 3 times, the RS works also since my multimeter reads the purple going down to 0V.  However, if I use the factory fob my multimeter shows only a brief drop of a few volts and the RS doesn't start up the truck.   

Anyone?

alright, do what techman said. use a relay, but no need for the capacitor because u dont need a double pulse. wire like so

Relay terminal

85 - Constant 12v fused @ 5 amps
86 - Splice into your door lock wire and run a wire to this terminal
87 - High Current/durable GROUND
30 - To (-) activatiojn wire on 561t.

Thanks for the advice fellas.

I'll try the relay this afternoon on the negative door lock purple wire using the 561T WHITE/ blue activation wire.  If that fails, I'll try the positive door lock motor wire using the 561T WHITE/ red activation wire. 

Yeah, I agree.  I should have spent more money on a system with a remote for the range and the unlocking :(

I'll have it all figured out by the time our first big cold spell goes away up here in Alberta.

My valet 561T install was progressing nicely except for a problem with getting factory fob lock to activate RS.

To test the 561T I was grounding the WHITE/ blue negative activation wire.  The truck would start up no problem.  Tested shutdowns, changed some features, started it several times.  End of day, left it that way.

Now a few days later (didn't drive truck in-between) the RS won't work at all.  I don't hear any clicking at all from the relays inside when I ground the activation wire to start.  Tried positive pulses to WHITE/ red activation wire but nothing either.

The neutral switch is grounded when on and BLACK/ white tests ok, not using hood pin so thats left open, power to 2 reds ok, black ground ok, brake press gives high.

I can enter programming mode and see the LED's flash the feature number.   I have never been able to get into diagnostic mode.  This is even when RS was working fine and I'd test shutdown eg. with brake  (ign off, hold program, ign on then off, release program, press and release program again).

 I am using a seperate relay for the second starter wire.  No diode across coil.  Think that could be a factor?

Opened it up and nothing looks unusual and I use to do failure analysis at IBM.    No tools to debug now (other than a fluke) nor the time.

What do you think?     Without the relays clicking what can a guy do?

 Thanks in advance for your time!

Anyone?  Any chance I've inadvertently changed a programming feature or something??

Oh well, I've given up until I get another 561 :(

Happy New Year everyone.

Just to close out the topic... here is an update.

Got a new "brain" but instead of a 561T replacement I put in a 561R for the reasons everybody mentioned (range of RS, power locks). 

Of course the 561T and 561R are the same less the remote so it plugged right into my existing wiring work.

Started first time :)

So,  I definitely ruined the 561T brain somehow when I was trying to get it to start using factory fob / door lock wire and playing around with blue (-) and red (+) activation wires.

Thanks to those who helped me out!  Next project is the same 561R into a 2005 CR-V.  Don't worry, I'll search for the wiring diagram before starting a new thread to ask what has probably already been asked before.

Cheers!