Bass Blocker Calculator

Does anyone know of a good website that has a calculator for bass blockers? I know that all a bass blocker consists of is a non-polarized cap. My issue is that I don't know how to calculate the capacitor value for the frequency I'm trying to eliminate. I don't have a problem with calculating it by hand if someone could walk me through it.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

In the charts and diagrams section here there are calculators for high and low pass filters.

-------------
Gary Sather

A "bass blocker" is a first order passive high-pass crossover. Enter your woofer impedance and your desired Xover setting in any on-line calculator for a ball-park figure. By the way, using a non-polarized electrolytic will give adequate results for most people, but if you notice distortion in the speaker try using a metalized poly cap instead.

-edit- see the12volt calculator linked below. :)

-------------
Support the12volt.com

Thanks for the replies! I was looking for the calculators on the website but I couldn't find it til now. That website that you linked me DYohn is awesome. Thanks again! The information given will be very helpful.

-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Here's our calculator... https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc

-------------
the12volt • Support the12volt.com

2 Ohm chart
4 Ohm chart
8 Ohm chart

I hate to say this, but I found all these calculators and charts not only very confusing, but pretty much unhelpful. Yep, I still couldn't figure out exactly which bass blocker to use in my new system. All that 1st order, 2nd order and more overwhelmed me. I'm just looking for the simple answer, not the scientific one.

I've used them before, but that was when I got them from an online company that only sold 2 sizes. Seems these days there are a gazillion sizes.

I posted on Crutchfield's website (I never buy from Crutchfield, only read stuff and look at products) that I had questions about which bass blocker to use. I clearly explained that I know WHAT they are and HOW they work AND that I've used them in the past. But I was flooded with replies explaining what they are and how they work! OMG, do people not read? LOL!

So, my current confusion is that I just want to know which bass blocker to use for my tweeters. I don't want anything at or below mid-range frequencies getting to my tweeters. My tweeters F/R goes up to 30,000Hz (I know, I know, the human ear doesn't hear that high, but I want all the dogs and dear in the area to enjoy my tunes too!) and I only want the highs from them. So, I'm assuming I want to chose bass blockers with the highest (or highER) number of cut-off frequency. Am I correct? Like, say maybe 5,000Hz or so? Would that be a good starting point?

Thanks for any advice you can give me without showing me a chart or graph. I'm not good at figuring those things out.

Oh, I'm running Pioneer TS-100 tweeters off deck power, and it worked awesome in the past. I can adjust the HP filter on the deck, which will be a huge help. But I just feel safer running bass blockers.

Thank you!

Your tweeters should come with a crossover cap soldered to them or in line with the leads. If not, you are likely safe using a 5000 Hz first order crossover - which would consist of a single capacitor in series with the positive lead. What is the rated impedance of the tweeter?

-------------
Support the12volt.com

Thanks! That's exactly what Sonic .suggested. Sure, that level costs twice as much as the others, but probably worth it if I can save my tweeters.

-------------

DYohn] wrote:

---

What is the rated impedance of the tweeter?

---

They're 4-ohm Pioneer TS-110 tweeters.

-------------

realistically its not a good idea to assume anything about a tweeters low end frequency response because if you get it wrong you could still end up with dead tweeters. you should look up the frequency response of those tweeters and size your bass blocker off of the lowest number they give you. you probably are safe at 5000Hz but if the tweeter can play lower than that then you could be robbing yourself.

Makes sense for the most part. But I just don't want or need my tweeters to be producing mid-range frequencies. That's not what I bought them for. I prefer they pump out the highs. The F/R of these is 2500-30,000 Hz. So yes, a 5000 Hz cut-off would be ideal. Sonic is suggesting the PAC #BB-6PR, which have a cut-off frequency of 5600 Hz for 4-ohm tweeters. PERFECT! As most of us know, the human ear only hears frequencies between 20 and 20,000 Hz. So "technically", I wouldn't hear anything from the tweeters anywhere near their 30,000 Hz high note capabilities. But it's also a "coolness factor" to have speakers that go that high, even if only animals will here them. LOL!

I just put in Kenwood 6.5" 3-way speakers in my front doors and rear deck, only to be very unhappy with their high frequencies. In fact, my factory 2-way door speakers that only handled 15 watts max put out better highs than these Kenwoods. It's actually the first time I've been unhappy with any Kenwood speaker. So, I have plans to replace them with Clarion SRG-1622R's, which have a frequency response of 30-30,000 Hz, much broader than the Kenwood KFC-1664S's 35-22,000 Hz. I then plan to buy a pair of Clarion SRQ6933R's for the rear deck. These have a frequency response of 25-35,000 Hz! Unbelievable for a 6x9. I can't find the SRQ series in door speakers.

So, some of you might be scratching your heads and wondering why in the world I even WANT or NEED tweeters. Good question. Simple answer. I just want clearer highs. Anyone can get bone-rattling bass by just throwing a couple cheap subs in a box with an amp. I see it all day long. But when that car is bumpin along or pulls into a parking lot with all the windows down trying to impress everyone, they look awfully ridiculous when you can't hear even the faintest mids or highs because they're running stock speakers off a stock deck, then most likely running some inputs (line level or RCA) into an amp for some subs. I want just the opposite. I want people to walk up and compliment me on how crystal clear my highs sound and ask me what kind of speakers I have (like they did all day with my Stratus stereo).

So, to sum it all up, I don't think I'll worry about reproducing frequencies down between around 2,500 Hz of these tweeters and the 5,600 Hz of the bass blckers out of the tweeters.

Thanks again for everyone's opinion. I might sound crazy but I'm really just crazy for sound. But on THIS car, I have an extremely tight budget, unlike the Stratus. So no subs, no pair of 1,000 watt amps and 1,800 watt sub amp, no optima battery, nothing fancy. Just a simple 4-channel amp powering door and rear deck speakers plus my deck powering some tweeters and I'm going to call it good.

-------------

If they are 4-ohm tweeters, an 8 uf cap in series will crossover at about 5KHz. Use a poly crossover cap, like these. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-82-82uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-426

-------------
Support the12volt.com

What a coincidence... it was from Parts Express that I ordered my last pair of these! Back then, they only offered 2 sizes.

-------------

DYohn] wrote:

---

If they are 4-ohm tweeters, an 8 uf cap in series will crossover at about 5KHz. Use a poly crossover cap, like these.

---

OMG! I just looked at all them they have at Parts Express now and got overwhelmed!!! There's over 230 of just the Polypropylene ones! So you're saying I would be best to go with the 8 uf? What % should I select? Dang, it was a LOT easier to just go with the ones Sonic suggested. At least there weren't a gazillion to chose from.

Thanks!

-------------

Got a reply from Parts Express! They also suggested the 5,000 Hz bass blockers. Between DYohn, Sonic .and Parts Express, I think the verdict is in: I'm going with the 5,000 Hz bass blockers! Now if I can figure out if the other specs are important to worry about. I don't remember some of that in my MECP training manual, but I'll have to look it up.

Thanks everyone for your advice! I knew I could count on THE12VOLT to come through once again when I needed them most!



-------------