viper 350 plus, actuators arizona

I'm looking for an opinion.

I have a 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited-X 4-door with Automatic Transmission. It doesn't have power locks or power windows. Heck, it doesn't even have cruise control. I thought I could live without these things but quickly found out I was wrong. I need power locks.

So, I'm ordering 4 door lock actuators and instead of just getting a Keyless Entry unit, I figured I might as well get an alarm with Keyless Entry.

I'm a total newbie when it comes to this level of 12v stuff. My experience has been "Red to battery, black to ground, and stick a fuse somewhere on the red wire". Pretty basic wiring.

I spent 2.5 days installing and wiring heated seats for this Jeep and, for me, that was an accomplishment! I loved that feeling and want to continue on by tackling this project.

So, here are my questions:

1. Viper 350 Plus Is it worth the $70 for this entry level alarm with keyless entry? If not, can you suggest one?

2. I'm considering getting these 2-wire actuators off of EBAY. Can you recommend a more reliable actuator?

3. Lastly I'm going to want a proximity sensor since my Jeep is a soft-top. Found this on EBAYas well.

I figure that I would tackle installing the door actuators first, running the wires to location I want to mount my alarm, then tackle the alarm.

Looking forward to seeing your responses.

Also, if any of you guys are in Arizona and can lend a hand, please speak up. I will pay for my education. I have beer and cash!



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12v newbie

One suggestion would be to make the connections for the doors removable/dis-connectable...I have done some on older wranglers...If your doors come off...You want to be able to easily dis-connect the wiring for removal of doors...! Just a thought...But it is now past my bedtime...! Good luck on the install...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Crud... ebay links didn't come through.

The ebay item number for the door actuator is: 230552134499

The eBay item number for the proximity senor is: 160492441318

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12v newbie

tommy... wrote:

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One suggestion would be to make the connections for the doors removable/dis-connectable...I have done some on older wranglers...If your doors come off...You want to be able to easily dis-connect the wiring for removal of doors...! Just a thought...But it is now past my bedtime...! Good luck on the install...!

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That's a big 10-4 on the removable doors. I found some waterproof 2-wire connectors for that purpose. I may go with a 4-wire connector, just in case I feel the need for power windows, too.


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12v newbie

they're cable locks on that. you'll either have to get creative or order the dei 524cl.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

zerepdivad wrote:

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they're cable locks on that. you'll either have to get creative or order the dei 524cl.

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Seriously!?! Aw, poo. Ok, one more thing to add to my shopping list.

Thanks.

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12v newbie

Ok, so my order has been placed.

I ordered two sets of the DEI524CL cable lock adaptors, 4 door actuators and the alarm. I'm going to order the proximity sensor once I get the alarm in hand. I have to make sure that I can use it. I've been having trouble downloading the Viper install manual from Viper's web site.

I found my wiring info for my jeep and relay wiring info for the actuators on this site, too.

I'm still looking for someone local that may be able to lend a hand. I found the link for local installers but most of the contact information is outdated. Man, that list REALLY needs to be updated!


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12v newbie

Adding actuators to all doors will require relays to activate the actuators via the door lock/unlock harness. It can be done but will take some time and work. Your best bet would be to take the jeep somewhere and have them install the actuators and then just run the wires out the door grommets...leaving the wires loose under the dash to make the connections. I had a place do that for a truck alarm install I did that needed power locks. I didn't want to mess with that part of it. Prox sensors on Ebay average $35 bucks. You might get a cheaper one if you really look hard... just make sure it is brand new and not open. I do have an extra prox sensor but I need to fix or replace the wiring harness on it.

If you use 2 wire actuators, then you will need two relays, or a DEI 451 module.
Alternatively get a Viper 1002, built in relays, you should get the install guide with the alarm.
As for a prox, why not the DEI 508d, it plugs straight into the 1004.
Lastly, I'd never be happy about a FleaBay purchase.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I made the purchase with # and I asked their alarm tech about the 1002 and not needing the 451 module. He said if the car already has power locks then you don't need it. If you're adding actuators then the 451 is still required.

Just in case, I went ahead and upgraded to the 1002 AND purchased the 451 module. I can always return it/resell it later, I guess.

I will be adding the 508b prox unit. I found one for $20. :)

As for ebay, I've only been failed three times in my 12 years of using ebay. The key is to shop smart, buy form people who is willing to take your phone call, and always pay with Paypal.

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12v newbie

Fair enough and you made some good comments at the end.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Alright. So I have the Viper 1002 alarm, the 508d proximity sensor, the cable lock brackets, and aftermarket actuators. I will be starting my install soon. Question: When wiring up the alarm module, If I am NOT doing a remote start will I just be tapping into wires? Or, will I need to "cut" any of them? Anyone know?

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12v newbie

If you bought a 1002, you won't need a 451 relay.
There will be no need for cuts unless it's a starter cut, everything else can be soldered in.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Should have been nasty about shopping smart, I did say the 1002 (not 1004 as I said at one point) didn't need a 451, their tech obviously DOESN'T know because unlike the 350, the 1002 has in-built relays, more than powerful enough to power your actuators. Is this 2 or 4 door vehicle?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

How big of a deal is it to solder in? I mean, I was thinking of using Posi-Taps because it would allow me to yank out the system without damaging the original factory wires. It would also save me a LOT of time. I've heard good things about them.

If I do go the way of soldering in a splice, should I use liquid electrical tap to seal it? What else would you all recommend?

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12v newbie

howie ll wrote:

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1002 has in-built relays, more than powerful enough to power your actuators. Is this 2 or 4 door vehicle?

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It's a 4-door.

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12v newbie

2ndchance wrote:

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How big of a deal is it to solder in? I mean, I was thinking of using Posi-Taps because it would allow me to yank out the system without damaging the original factory wires. It would also save me a LOT of time. I've heard good things about them.

If I do go the way of soldering in a splice, should I use liquid electrical tap to seal it? What else would you all recommend?

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Anybody who does this for a living will tell you NOT TO USE THOSE. solder is all that should be used on a security system/remote start. t-taps, posilocks and all of that crap make horrible connections, and end up causing more problems than the time they save is worth.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Ok, so what's the best way to seal/protect the connection? I can't shrink tube it. Liquid electrical tape?

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12v newbie

i use 3m super33 and also put a small ziptie around each connection in the oddball chance the tape decides to unravel.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

zerepdivad wrote:

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i use 3m super33 and also put a small ziptie around each connection in the oddball chance the tape decides to unravel.

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x2...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

X3!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, so I was speaking to an installer and asked about how he does his connections. He said that he used the Poke and Wrap Technique(PWT). He said that it was the industry preferred method for making connections. He continued to say that he then wraps it with tape and zip-ties the connection.

I did a search online and found a verbage on VehicleInstallers.com which reads, "The poke and wrap technique (PWT) is the industry preferred method of connecting GPS vehicle tracking systems to a vehicles wiring harness. It can be used to connect just about any electronic component but generally going to be used on commercial service and delivery vehicles with a high turnover rate. Installation of custom sound, audio, video or satellite radio is best done by soldering all connections. The PWT technique ensures a constant and secure connection for the life of the vehicles while still offering a fairly quick removal."

This verbage was referencing installation of commercial GPS tracking devices in work trucks, which allows them to quickly replace damaged GPS units or move GPS units when a vehicle is replaced.

My search has determined that he is being truthful. With that said, am I being stupid in considering it?


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12v newbie

i do that method in addition to solder. any less in my opinion is just being lazy.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Actually we DON'T solder to any CAN wiring on the main OBD because it will affect the diagnostics, apart from that X 2 with Z.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

In fact DEI do CAN dedicated alarms for European vehicles and they recommend the same point, that we go to the BCM CAN wires rather than the OBD CAN. ALWAYS SOLDER.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well, this project is over. I finally had the alarm installed tonight. We soldered some connections, crimped with waterproof butt connectors, and t-tapped some smaller wires that are well hidden and up high. Man, what a pain in the ass!

Thanks to everyone for their help!

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12v newbie