do i need relay for door/trunk w/ ns 1074

I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima (automatic + factory alarm).
I would like to install a Nordic Start NS-1074 remote starter.

The door lock/unlock/trunk wires in the car all are (-) inputs and the remote starter unit outputs (-) so I don't need it for reversing polarity (unlock requires double pulse which can be programmed in the starter unit).

After quite some research I'm still unsure about whether or not I need relays for lock/unlock/trunk release. Does the NS-1074 have onboard relays for these features?

Link for the Remote Starter Install Guide + Wiring Diagram (Nordic doesn't have the guide online but the AS-1455 I've read is the same).
Link for the Remote Starter User Guide
Link for the 96 Maxima Wiring Diagram
Link for the Double Pulse Unlock Relay Diagram

Any help will be appreciated.

you don't need any relay in your door locks,as long as you can program the alarm for double pulse, but you will need it for the trunk release, the wire color its purple / YELLOW - pulse, you'll find it in the low driver kick panel.

hope this helps.

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im ( J ) and car audio is my thang.. and if i can help i will.

Thanks, it does help.

Just so I know in the future, can you please tell me why I need a relay just for the trunk release in this case.

sure, its because most of the times the original system comes with a relay itself, so when you send the signal most of the times it will produce a feed back and will leave the trunk release stuck, and with the separate relay you'll prevent that from happening.

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im ( J ) and car audio is my thang.. and if i can help i will.

The reason is that whilst your door locks require low current around 100milliamps to activate or trigger the lock and unlock relays, the trunk release is probably directly grounding a pos fed release motor and thus requires 8-15amps, so the current available has to be amplified or boosted by a relay.
Your trunk release aux won't handle this so wire to a relay thus. There are two ways and this method (to me ) is better.
Cut original release wire.
Switch side to 87a.
Trunk side to 30.
Aux via an inline 1N4004 diode*, band towards the RS to 85.
12v+ constant fused at 3amps to 86.
Very good ground to 87.
*Prevents relay coil feed back which will otherwise damage the RS.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Is it suitable to use a 1N4001 diode instead? I ask because I already have some on hand.
Just to double check, is the 12v wire fused at 30 or 3 amps?

So this is what the relay should look like, correct?


Again, thanks for the help Howie and J.

Yes and your diagram is spot on.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry to bug you once more. You mentioned to fuse the 12v wire at 3amps. Is it 3 or 30amps?

3, you're only powering the coil which is about 1.2 amps, it's the switching side, 87 and 30 which handles the power and they are rated at 30 amps.
Also as you are switching to ground, a fuse is not really necessary since it's on the solenoid's output not input, there's probably already a fuse of 10-20 amps in the fuse box covering the constant power to the solenoid.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Question folks.
I see you recommend he puts the Diode on the 85 side.
Ive seen some people recommend Soldering it across from 86 to 85.
Will this serve the same function, or it more for suppressing Voltage Spikes and less for blocking 12V (+) going into the brain of the RS?

Or is all the same thing?

Exactly the same, do whatever you find easiest.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I just came across some 4 pin relays that don't have the middle 87a pin.

Will it do the same job if I wire it like this:
86 - 12v fused at 3amps
85 - RS trunk output diode stripe towards RS side
87 - Ground
30 - Vehicle trunk wire
So in this case I would not need to cut the trunk wire as in the diagram I posted earlier, correct?

You mentioned the way you showed earlier as better. Is there a reason for that or just preference.

Thanks for the help so far!

It may be, normally I use the 5 pin when that feed is pos, it's just that the line back to the vehicle ECU might be sitting on pos, the 5 pin separates, the 4 pin doesn't so the 5 pin is inherently safer.
For the price difference and remember I'm usually buying about 20+ at a time, I always buy 5 pin, more versatile.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.