2004 WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee, Viper 5704

Hello!

I have a Viper 5704 and DBALL2 module I am installing into my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. To start I am trying the D2D cable between the remote starter and the DBALL2 instead of the W2W approach.

I am using the following diagram from the DBALL2 documentation as a guide. According to this documentation, because I am using the D2D wire, all connections pictured with the dashed lines can be ignored.

DBALL Install Diagram (connection in question in pink):

I have 3 wires related to IGNITION 1:

1. H3/1 PINK: (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT on the 10 pin heavy gague connector for the remote starter
2. 2. 17 PINK: (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT on the 24 pin aux/shutdown/trigger connector for the remote starter
3. 3. 9 PINK: (+) IGNITION INPUT on connector #10 of the DBALL2

The DBALL2 shows #3 above on the DBALL2 connected to "(+) Starter Output" on the remote starter, and that connection T'd off into the heavy gauge ignition wire in the ignition harness on the steering column.

I'm posting here because I'm not sure what connections to make.

1. Am I supposed to connect #1 and #3 from above? If so, this is a heavy 12gauge wire and a small 18 gaugue wire; is something special needed to make this connection? The viper docs specifically state "NEVER connect 200mA low current outputs directly ro a motor or high current device WITHOUT a relay".
2. Where, if anywhere, is #2 above connected into this?

I'm not sure if I'm supposed to

a) connect all 3
b) connect #2 and #3 together and separately connect #1 to the Jeep
c) ignore #2 and connect #1 and #3 somehow
d) something altogether different.

Any help is appreciated. The documentation PDFs are below:

1. DBALL2: https://www.dropbox.com/s/e76livfgzz85t4q/dball-dball2-chrysler2_en_ig_cp20131211%20%281%29.pdf
2. Viper 5704: https://www.dropbox.com/s/n7obxe9enpbu25n/Viper_5704_Installation.pdf
3. null

For ignition, just splice your small gauge pink wire on the dball to the heavy guage pink ignition wire on the remote starter, and run that to the ignition wire in the vehicle. The negative ignition 1 output will not be used.

For starter, just take your purple starter wire on the viper unit and tie it straight to the starter wire in the vehicle. As long as your using d2d of course.

You will be fine using the heavy gauge wires on the lighter ignition wires in the vehicle as long as your connections are solid and secured. Do the same with your heavy gauge orange accessory wire. If your really worried about it you could solder in the some smaller gauge wiring and run that to your ignition switch as well, it does make it look a lot cleaner.

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for, and confirms what kreg357 posted here (I found this since posting)

Glad to help. Hope ya get it going!

I have finished wiring the Viper 5704 and DBALL2 into the Jeep. I then

1. Connected the battery
2. Plugged the D2D into the DBALL2 (the light was solid red)
3. Put the key in the ignition
4. Turned the key to ON. (DBALL2 went through expected light sequence)

I then attempted to remote start the Jeep.

I got 7 flashes from the parking lights. The diagnostic section says this means "Timer mode/Turbo mode/Manual mode error - Timer mode error: Ignition is on or shutdown input is active when activating timer mode. Turbo mode error: Turbo mode is programmed off, engine is not on or shutdown input is active. Manual mode error: MTS mode not enabled"

I don't have a turbo, the transmission is automatic and in park, and the ignition was off (keys in my hand).

What should I check next?

Are you sure its not 8 flashes instead? Sometimes it can be kinda hard to count.

Did you hook up the brake wire? And did you hook up or ground the neutral safety wire?

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I had 7 flashes. I then realized I had to charge the usb remote and use the valet/control button on the antenna to switch the remote start feature from manual to automatic transmission mode.

I am now getting 8 flashes "Neutral safety wire has no ground or he neutral safety switch is off".

The neutral safety switch is plugged in and set to ON. I actually don't have the 24pin H2 connector plugged into the viper 5704 at all as (up until now) it seemed no others were needed for the D2D install.

Should I plug this connector in and ground the "H2/13: (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY / PARKING BRAKE INPUT" wire where I have grounded the "H1/2: (-) CHASSIS GROUND" ?

YES! BLACK/ white on 24 pin needs to be grounded.

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And connect the brown wire on the H2 harness to the brake pedal switch like I said before. Sometimes you dont need to when using a Dball or something similar. But if you look at the install sheet you posted above for the Dball, it doesnt say it picks up the brake pedal wire.

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Often the case with DB-ALL D2D installs, there's nearly always the odd circuit it won't recognise.
I once made the serious mistake of leaving the 24 pin plug at home, you can imagine the fun having to solder the BLACK/ white and the WHITE/ blue (wanted defrost)directly to the DB-ALL board outside in the street.

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Thanks you harryharris and godd dan it.

The BLACK/ white neutral safety is grounded and the brown brake shutdown input is tapped into the brake pedal switch.

I am hopefully in the home stretch now.

When attempting a remote start the following occurs:

1. Remote says it's successfully going to attempt the ignition (no immediate errors like before)
2. After 10 seconds of silence the parking lights flash once.
3. After 10 more seconds of silence the parking lights flash once more.
4. After 15 seconds of silence the remote beeps/buzzes and REMOTE START ERROR appears on the screen.

The remote start's startup diagnostics in the manual only document reasons for 5-8 flashes from the remote start; for 1 flash there is no information.

What should I check next?

Have you learned tach?

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Test before boxing up.

No, that's what I'm trying to do. Since I am doing a D2D install i don't have the tach wire connected to anything. The instructions from the Viper 5704 docs say to remote start the vehicle to initialize the tach.

Also disconnect the brown, you might have gone to the wrong side of the brake switch, LED aftermarket lights if fitted will also give this problem.
I haven't looked but the spec should tell you if the DB-ALL gives the R/S a brake light feed

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Test before boxing up.

I get the same result with or without the brown brake shutdown input wire connected.

The DB-ALL should give you proper tach go back to the programming, Menu 3 item 2 option 4.
Much better than virtual tach especially in the winter.

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I have done the following:

With no wiring changes
1. Changed Engine Checking Mode menu 3, item 2 to option 4 Tachometer
2. Ensured Transmission mode menu 3, item 1 is set to option 2 Automatic
3. Attempted the remote start

With brown brake shutdown input disconnected
1. Double-checked both settings above
2. Attempted the remote start

I get identical behavior - confirmation from the remote, 10 second silence, 1 parking light flash, 10 second silence, 1 parking light flash, 15 second silence, REMOTE START ERROR on the remote.

I think I may hear a relay or something clicking prior to each flash of the parking lights coming from near or in the remote starter.

Try and count the clicks.
Run engine within 5 seconds hold the control centre button until the blue LED comes on. Then you've learned tach.
Then try a remote start.

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Test before boxing up.

Regarding the clicks from the remote start, here is more detail on what happens

1. I attempt the remote start and get confirmation it's gone through
2. The parking lights flash almost immediately
3. I hear 3 clicks 1-2 seconds apart, coming from the remote starter. On the 3rd click I also hear a click from under the steering column by the immobilizer/ignition
4. I then get the flash of parking lights at 10seconds in
5. The same 3 clicks can be heard from the remote start. There is no click from the immobilizer/ignition this time.
6. The flash from the parking lights at 20seconds in
7. The same 3 clicks a final time. Again, no click from the immobilizer/ignition
8. At 35 seconds in the remote displays the generic error message.


To confirm about learning the tach, I should

1. Put key in the ignition and start the jeep
2. within 5 seconds of it starting, push and hold the control center button on the antennae for the remote starter, waiting for the blue LED.
3. Release the control center button
4. Turn off the vehicle
5. Attempt a remote start

Correct?

Yes 3 clicks/flashes = no or low RPM therefore learn tach.

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Test before boxing up.

I have now done the following

1. Put the key in the ignition and start the jeep
2. Quickly pushed and held the control center button on the antennae for the remote starter, waiting for the blue LED. It illuminated solid blue
3. Released the control center button

Immediately after releasing the control center button the parking lights flashed twice. The LED turned off. Does this confirm the tach has been learned?

I then turned the jeep off, and finally attempted a remote start.

The outcome is still the same, identical in every way to the 8 steps described in my previous post.

A bit more information:

I disconnected the purple heavy gauge starter wire from the yellow starter wire on the ignition harness. I connected the positive on the volt meter up to the purple wire, grounded the negative, and triggered the remote starter.

The viper troubleshooting says I should see a voltage jump 2 seconds after the remote start becomes active

I did not see any increase in voltage.

I removed the connector I installed on the end of the wire to rule that out, clamping the volt meter directly onto the purple wire. Same result.

I checked the grey/black wire on the 24pin connector of the remote starter (-) diesel wait to start is not touching anything - apparently if it detects a ground the starter won't crank.

I checked the 30amp fuses. Though there is not one on the purple starter wire, the others appear intact.

I still have no tach wire connected anywhere, and the menu option is set to Option 4 Tachometer.


There are a series of other steps I'm quite unsure about:

5. "Is the vehicle a Chrysler or GM with a multiplexed starter wire? The vehicle will not crank if the resistance is incorrect on the multiplexed accessory/starter wire" I don't know how to check this

8. "Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter/kill/anti-grind relay" I don't know what this is - I've seen no mention of such a relay in any reading/research I've done

9. "Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Yes Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active" Again, no research I've done on people installing the 5704 into a Jeep Grand Cherokee mention such issues

Any other ideas on how to get the voltage to come from the purple starter wire as expected?

How do you have the heavy gauge wires connected from the Viper unit? All the heavy red wires are connected to a 12 volt constant correct? That includes, red, RED / black, and RED / white.

Also, did you plug in the neutral safety toggle killswitch and its set to "ON"?

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Yes, the neutral safety killswitch is plugged in.


Currently I have the following heavy gauge wires from the remote starter's 10pin:


H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT   - DBALL's pink ignition input is T'd into this and plugged into dark blue on the ignition harness

H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - not used

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - plugged into BLACK/ orange on ignition harness

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) - plugged into yellow on ignition harness

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) - not used

H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - not used

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) - not used

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) - not used

H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - not used

H3/10 NC No Connection


> That includes, red, RED / black, and RED / white.

To answer this directly, no, none of those on the 10pin heavy gauge connector are connected to anything.


On the 10pin connector (see above)

- I have the purple starter
- I have the pink ignition
- I have the orange accessory

On the 6pin main connector

- I have the red 12v constant input plugged into red constant 12v on the ignition harness
- I have the black grounded

On the 24pin connector

- I have the pink H2/17 ignition 1 output connected to the heavy gauge ignition H3/1 ignition 1 input/output.
- I have the black white H2/13 neutral safety grounded.
- I have the H2/20 brown connected to the brake pedal switch

And that's your answer!!!
You still need to POWER UP RED, RED / WHITE & RED / BLACK
Tach will be delivered by the DB-ALL as you just proved.

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Test before boxing up.

Also, does the Jeep have a 2nd ignition wire or 2nd accessory wire? If so, you need to hook it up so everything is powered on. I did an alarm/remote starter install on a '04 Grand Cherokee a few years ago and it was a pretty straight forward install.

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IT WORKS!

What an odd sense of embarrassment and happiness at the same. I regret not posting my list of connections from the get go, and am extremely grateful to you guys for helping me through this. I had a fundamental misunderstanding of how the starter expected the 12v power to be routed to it. The additions of the 3 heavy gauge wires into the 12v constant on the Jeep are a no-brainer in retrospect.


I wired the following into the red 12v constant on the ignition harness

H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)

these were in addition to the red 12v constant input I already had connected from the 6pin main connector/harness.


I have a few follow-up questions:

1. Again, the tach setting is Tachometer, Option 4 in Menu 3, Feature 2. I had to hard-wire the tach wire on the 24pin starter connector to the tach wire on the DB-ALL2 in order to get the Jeep to fully start. Without this connection the Jeep would turn over but not fully start. Should I leave this setting and hard-wired tach connection, or undo this and change the tach setting in the Viper menu?

2. godd dan it mentions a 2nd ignition wire or 2nd accessory wire. You can see here that I do have a (+) BLACK/ ORANGE on the Jeep's ignition harness for Accessory 2. What wire on the 10pin heavy gauge harness should be connected to this? Do I need to change any set Options in the Viper menu for this?

3. Rear Defroster: harryharris mentioned connecting the H2/3 WHITE/ BLUE (-) 200mA 2nd STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT wire to the DBALL2. I'm unsure which wire on the DBALL2 I need to connect this to. Any ideas?

2nd. ACC:-
Pink/white heavy gauge harness to ACC 2.
You can program it from IGN 2 to ACC 2, menu 3, feature 8, option 2.
Rear Defrost:
I did it old school on a Liberty.
Find the "hot" wire at the window.Trace back to vehicle front.
At the front of vehicle cut that wire then using a 5 pin automotive cube relay,
WHITE/ blue from the 24 pin plug to 85
Fused 30 amp source to 86 and 87
Front end of cut wire to 87a
Rear (window) end to 30.
Menu 3 feature 11 option 2.


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Test before boxing up.

I'm nearing the end of this project, and then I'll make a final post to this thread outlining everything I've done for other DIY'ers out there.


First I'm hoping for a bit of help troubleshooting. It seems disconnecting the battery causes the remote starter to lose it's selected feature options and learned tach.


Some Quick Facts

- For the last 3 days everything has been working great.

- My driver door for the duration of this project has had no power to it. I lock and unlock this door manually.



The Issue

Yesterday I had the battery disconnected for 5-6 hours while I installed a subwoofer. Since then, the remote starter

1. does flash the parking lights when locking/unlocking the vehicle
2. does not beep the horn once to confirm it's been armed
3. does appear to arm the anti-theft on the starter. The LED on the control center blinks, but the light in the dash for the factory anti-theft does not blink.
4. does not lock or unlock the vehicle. There is no audible attempt by the car to perform either action at each door.
5. does not remote start the car properly. It turns over but then immediately cuts out 3 times before saying REMOTE START ERROR
6. The arm/disarm door lock/unlock works fine with the factory remote (bypassing the remote starter)
7. A few seconds sending a lock/arm command from the remote starter remote, I get a "door open" error that I've never seen before

I went through the menus and changed the following:



I tried learning the tach again:

1. start the car manually
2. quickly press and hold the control center button until LED illuminates
3. turn car off

but the LED never lit up.


The Questions

1. What am I doing wrong to re-learn the tach?
2. What should I check to get my arm/disarm & lock/unlock working again?

The Viper product retains its memory even when power is disconnected.
I really don't know what to think other than what you might have done over the last few days.
Could you check and I mean properly, remove one at a time and check continuity with a DMM.
Has any of your wiring come adrift?
How did you join your wires?

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Test before boxing up.

No tach? Try re-initialising the DB-ALL.

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Test before boxing up.

As harryharris states: Try reprograming the DB-ALL.
Used a DB-ALL in my nieces 2010 Jeep Liberty, did this one D2D. Only one so far.
Had to reprogram the DB-ALL after the Jeeps battery went dead. Don't know if it is a DB-ALL issue or a D2D issue.

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I tried re-initializing the DB-ALL2. This failed with constant blinking orange lights. The docs said this meant it couldn't get a read off the J1850 pin on the ODB2 connector.

I used the DMM on the connector and confirmed it was dead. The Jeep had an older remote starter installed from the previous owner - I originally had just tapped into the same scotchlok T connector already on the wire.

I replaced the connector with a new one and tried re-initializing the DB-ALL2 again.

SUCCESS!

Thanks for the advice guys. I must have bumped the wire one too many times routing all the cables for the subwoofer.

Scotchlok???? That says it all!!
That's why I was wondering how you connected your wires.
Now may I suggest you remove any more of those POS connectors and solder all of your joints.
If you're not sure about soldering read the informative threads in the general section.

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Test before boxing up.

Again as harryharris says, get rid of the scotchlocks

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