2012 tacoma viper 5704 and pkall

I need some help, I installed the viper 5704 and used the pkall it came flashed to version 4.0. I used this post to help with the install https://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/252032-how-install-viper-5704-alarm-remote-start.html I located all my wires with my power probe and double checked my connections. My question is I have all my alarm functions, lock, unlock,door triggers, hood pin and shock sensor. I don't have remote start, I downloaded the instruction from the xpresskit website and used the G key installation. I hit my remote start button and all I get is ACC, IGN ON and it shuts off "so no crank at all" and cycles again and shuts off. I'm not sure if its the bypass module or the viper need needs to be programmed.

Does your key have a "G" stamp on it?

Here is a link to the install guide you should use for the PKALL portion of the install :
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7017&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

I can't open your link for any additional info to assist but there are some things you might need to do with the Viper.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I do have a G Key and I use the connections on the passenger side behind my glove box and used GWR wire to the dark blue wire from my viper alarm "status out". I programmed the bypass and it flashed 10 times confirming it took.

Then the PKALL bypass should be OK.  You can test your remote start portion of the install by unplugging the PKALL's
Black CONN1 D2D / power connector, inserting a working key into the ignition switch ( but not turned ) and trying a Viper
remote start.  This will verify all the Viper's H3 ignition / power connections.

Did you program the Viper to Tach Mode and perform the Viper Tach Learn?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the link.  I think I remember Riverdog asking a few questions on this site during his prep work.  His
write-up is excellent and very complete.  He had an earlier version Tacoma, so some of the info won't apply to your
truck.  Here is a link to better wiring info ( as Bulldog seems to have omitted the IGN1 and IGN2 wires in their listing ) :
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Toyota&model=Tacoma

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg for your help, I will trying to isolate the bypass tomorrow. I did do the Tach learn and automatic mode. I also went into the Viper menu and selected menu 3 option 4 for Tachometer yesterday after i looked at the Viper install sheet trying to program it. So if disconnect the D2D wire on the Bypass and insert my key and try to remote start the vehicle it should start b/c the bypass wouldn't matter if the key is in the ignition? I also read somewhere some Toyotas need 2 keys to program the PKALL?

Yes, the above test will eliminate the PKALL from the picture ( assuming the truck still starts normally with the key ) and use the key as the transponders signal source.  You can also get some validation from doing a PitStop.  This is where you start the truck with a key and then enter PitStop mode & remove the key.  The engine should continue to idle for the normal run time.  At this point the Viper is supplying the power to the ignition circuits. 

You can also use try the Vipers "Shutdown Diagnostics" to see if it logged a failure code.

The PKALL does need two working keys to allow programming on certain vehicles.  On your Tacoma with the "G" key, you connect to the IMI / IMO wires and only need one key to program.  The PKALL is actually a KeyOverRideAll module made by Fortin for XPressKit.  While the connector wire colors might be different, everything else is similar.  Here is a link to the KeyOverRideAll install guide ( see Connection 19 and Program 3 for your truck ) :

https://fortin.ca/download/7551/key-override-all_installation_guide_(new_look).rev-20130219.pdf

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I checked the diagnostic and it blinked 3 and 4, 3 ( indicated Low or No RPM )so, I checked my tach connection which is black and white at my DLC it was ok. The 4 blinks (indicated transmitter shutdown) ? So I'm still wondering whats going on with the remote start? Thanks again for all your advice !

Even if the bypass is wired wrong, the starter should crank. How did you wire the 2 starter circuits?

I Followed this

Starter 2, I used relay with the diode In Riverdog's guide.

I'm gonna try this tomorrow

The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages.
1. Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If
there is voltage present, skip to Step 8. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. If the gray/black wait-to-start wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4. Is the tach wire connected? If so disconnect it and remote start the vehicle to see if the purple wire
sends out voltage. If you get voltage you will need to go to an alternate tach source, the tach wire
you are currently on has a voltage spike upon ignition power up which can cause the remote start to
not send out the crank voltage.
5. Is the vehicle a Chrysler or GM with a multiplexed starter wire? The vehicle will not crank if the resistance
is incorrect on the multiplexed accessory/starter wire.
6. Is the vehicle a GM? If so the Brown 2nd accessory needs to be powered up on some of the vehicles
for the vehicle to crank.
7. If this is a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch will need to be bypassed (see tech tip # 10000 at
www.directechs.com)
8. Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind
relay.
9. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank
if active.
10. Check connections. The heavy gauge remote start input wires on the heavy gauge 10-pin connector
should have a solid connection. “T-taps” or “scotch locks”.

Riverdogs guide is correct.  The info is from this Site in two posts.
( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132753 )
( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133970 )

Here is the H3 wiring for a Viper 5704 to 2012 Tacoma

Viper H3        2012 Tacoma
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT BLACK/ Red (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6  
2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2          WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT     WHITE/ Green (+)   @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2         
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT    (CAR SIDE)          GREEN/ Black (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   \
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT    (KEY SIDE) GREEN/ Black (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   /  cut wire
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT     WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5          
7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY       *      Blue / YELLOW (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1          
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A         not used   
9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT   WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 

Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay for Starter2
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Tacoma WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 thru 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma BLACK/ White (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate
Add 1N4004 diode across Relay Pin 85 to 86 with stripe towards Pin 86 as shown.

* Viper factory default for H3/7 Pink/White is IGN2 and correct for your application.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I'm gonna check my ignition wiring again tomorrow, I know I'm close and it has to be something simple. Thanks again for confirming my wires are correct.

Additional thoughts on the 10 point check list.

1. OK
2. OK. 
3. OK.   As per Riverdogs guide, this wire should have been cut short and taped off.   Same goes for the Hood Pin Input,
    if it sees a ground it will prevent a remote start and give a six flash error code.  ( Always install & use the Hood Pin. )
4. OK.  Thought the Tach Learn was successful but you could re-program for Virtual Tach and try that.
5. Not applicable.
6. Not Applicable.
7. Hopefully not applicable.  You mentioned you programmed to Auto Trans Mode.  If your truck has a manual trans,
    you must re-program to Manual Trans Mode, run in Tach Mode and bypass the clutch interlock switch.
8. OK - mentioned in Riverdogs write-up.
9. OK but it looks like the PKALL programmed properly and you did try a R/S without the bypass and just the key.
10.  Never use T-Taps or Scotch Locks.    Solder everything. 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Glad the time difference allowed you to notice that first Kreg. I would follow up by guessing that if the OP removes the t-taps, AKA IDC, Scotchloks or rubbish and solder those joints half the problems will immediately vanish.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie, but I need help and not you piggy backing off of Kreg. I dont have scotch locks or t-taps. If you give me some info I can actually use instead of "following up on what some says" and give good info I can use to help, I would appreciate it. Thanks again Kreg for helping me without trying to make me feel stupid.

You're right I looked again it was a generalisation not applicable to what you'd done or said.
Out of interest do you have LED tail lights?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes I have LED tail lights

Are these aftermarket? If so here's a guess based on the fact that I'm the best diagnostics person this side of the pond is that there's a residual voltage in those lights and it's shutting down the R/S action assuming you've done everything right.
Look at the brake wire part on this diagram:-


brake_and_reverse,_diode_isolation.bmp
Use the left hand brake lights part.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

They aren't aftermarket the lights come LED from the factory. So your saying my brake lights are back feeding to the vipers brain and shutting down the remote start.

I just got finished checking my starter and ignition wires based on the trouble shooting checklist from the viper manual. When I checked the violet wire on the starter side with the remote start i don't get any voltage, all my 30A fuses are good. When i use my key in the ignition and crank I see cranking voltage on starter side and key side. All my other ignition wires checked out.

Have you checked remote start shutdown/startup diagnostics, after failure the unit will click and flash your lights a number of times telling you why it's misbehaving.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, I pulled the codes yesterday and I have #3 Low or No RPM and #4 Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)

Disconnect the tach wire and reprogram as virtual tach.
The current car had a Clifford with Intellistart lV, then a 5904, now a month ago a 5906.
Earlier this week the R/S decided it wasn't working, 10 day old battery,
yet first low revs then low voltage. That's what I did and now we are happy again.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok I'll try that. When you do virtual tach the violet/white wire just needs to clipped and taped off? Or do I have to find another tach source I have my tach source from the OBDII connector.

Yes and AFAIK tach wire, pin 9 on the OBD ll Toyotas, BMW is the best place to pick up tach.
Please don't tell me that with a 1 week old new battery my 5906 from out of the blue suddenly doesn't recognise tach?
Methinks something spiked it.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie for your help I will try that this weekend.

I think may have found my problem, while doing some research at work I went the xpresskit website and found out I need 2 keys to program my bypass module. My question is If I already programmed it with 1 key do I just disconnect the module and repeat the steps for the second key?Xpress Kit

That is the problem with XpressKit, their WEB site and manuals are very confusing. You really have to be reading the fine print with this
vehicle. If you open the PKALL Install Guide you linked to, you will see that for Connection Type and Programming Type it points you
back to the XpressKit WEB site and the generic PKALL info. From that point you should click on the Download Manual tab at the middle of
the page and then click on PKALL and then scroll down to Toyota Tacoma G Key 2010 - 2011. That will allow you to click on the actual
Install Guide ( https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7017&productid=196&firmwareid=1636 ). I believe
that this guide also applies to the 2012 Tacoma. Page 1 details the needed wire connections and Page 2 shows the module programming.
It looks like you only need one key.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

That's the installation manual I went by. Now I'm confused I only need 1 key? So here's where I am, I checked all my connections again this morning they all were ok. I took Howie's advice and disconnected my tach wire and tried the virtual tach and still no crank. I did a search about 20 min ago and found a xpress kit trouble shooting guide to find out if my bypass is working. But this morning when I had everything down I tried my R/S and the bypass module lit up solid. So I'm assuming its working fine. Other side not while trying to diagnose I found when the R/S clicks and restarts, the Viper is clicking internally like how a relay clicks.

Also when I try to remote start my immobilizer light keeps flashing it never goes off.

Just some random thoughts...

Have you tried a PitStop?

Have you tried a remote start with the PKALL's 4 pin power harness disconnected and a working key in the ignition switch?

Have you removed all the Vipers fuses and static checked them with a DMM?

Have you used a DMM to check the Vipers +12V constant input wires for proper voltage right at the Viper plug?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

What's a PitStop?

I have tried to remote start with the PKALL's 4 pin connector disconnected with a working key in the ignition and still no change.

No I haven't static checked the fuses with a multi meter

And no to the third question, but I checked at all my spliced connections.

Define spliced please.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If the truck did not remote start when the PKALL was un-powered and with a key in the ignition, the problem is the Viper and / or
it's connections / programming. Just verify that the truck will still start with the key while the PKALL's 4 Pin power harness is unplugged.

There is a possibility that a fuse is bad even if it looks good. A static test with the fuse removed from the circuit using a DMM set to
resistance is the best way. If you have 3 spare 30 amp fuses, test them and use them.

There is a chance that a fuse holder is bad ( or a fuse is mis-inserted ), so testing for voltage after the fuse holder and right at the Viper
plug is a good idea.

Here is a link to the 5704 User Manual : https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Viper/G5704V%202011-08%20web2.pdf
PitStop info is on Page 34.   If the truck stays running in PitStop Mode, most of the Viper H3 ignition circuits are working OK. This
won't verify the Vipers Starter outputs, which appear to be your main issue. If PitStop Mode works, you can put a DMM on the
Vipers IGN1, IGN2 and ACC outputs to verify they are all good.

Unless you do it everyday, I have found that programming the Viper options with the remotes challenging. I took the easy way out
and bought a BitWriter. Having a visual confirmation of the current settings is nice. For your issue, the Menu 3 options need to be
checked.
Menu 3, Item 1 set to Automatic ( still assuming your truck is an Automatic Transmission )
Menu 3, Item 2 set to Tach Mode and a successful Tach Learn or Virtual Tach and a remote start/remote shutdown.
Menu 3, Item 8 set to Ignition2 ( default )

-------------
Soldering is fun!