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viper 5704 and idatalink ads tb in tacoma


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riverdogg 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2012
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 3:38 AM / IP Logged  
I'm planning out my first install of a Viper 5704 and an iDataLink ADS-TB transponder bypass in my 2005 Toyota Tacoma. I've gathered tons of info from searching several threads on the12volt. I've put together how I'm planning on wiring everything but have a few questions that I could really use some expertise on. Thanks!
Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4-door, V6
Alarm: Viper 5704 with remote start
Transponder Bypass: iDataLink ADS-TB
A) Main harness, 6-pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color        Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
H1/1    Red WHITE/ Blue (+)       Ignition Switch Harness
H1/2    Black Ground  Chassis Ground
H1/3    Brown  NA  Connects with siren
H1/4    WHITE/ Brown      NA
H1/5    White Green (+)  Fuse Box
H1/6    Orange        Blue/White[on bypass]     Bypass
B) Door Lock, 3-Pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color    Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
? 1       Blue Gray (-)        Driver's Kick panel into door
   2       Empty
? 3       Green Blue/White (-) Driver's Kick panel into door
C) Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color   Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
   H2/1    Pink/White       NA
   H2/2    BLACK/ White      Ground
   H2/3    Blue/White       NA
   H2/4    GREEN/ Black      NA
   H2/5    RED / White        NA
? H2/6    Green FL Door: GREEN/ YELLOW (-) ?
 FR Door: RED / Black (-)?
 Rear L&R Doors: Pink/Black (-)       ?
   H2/7    BLACK / YELLOW     Blue (-)  Fusebox
   H2/8    BROWN / Black
   H2/9    Dark Blue
   H2/10   Pink
   H2/11   WHITE/ Black
   H2/12   Violet
   H2/13   WHITE/ Violet
   H2/14   Violet/Black
   H2/15   ORANGE / Black
   H2/16   Brown
   H2/17   Gray
   H2/18   Violet / YELLOW
   H2/19   Blue
   H2/20   Grey/Black
   H2/21   WHITE/ Blue
   H2/22   Orange
   H2/23   Violet/White
   H2/24   GREEN / WHITE
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:28 AM / IP Logged  

A few thoughts...

Unless you have the ADS USB cable and registered iDatalink WEB site access or a source for a flashed Multi Series

ADS TB, use a Solo Series bypass module like the ADS TBSL KO or ADS TBSL TI.  They come pre-loaded with the correct
firmware and are usually easier to find and less expensive.

A few notes on the Lock and Unlock wires from DEI :

Power Lock    blue/white (-)     driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 6

This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running.
All other times just use the factory alarm arm wire.
Power Unlock  gray  -  driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 7
This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running.
All other times just use the factory alarm disarm wire.

Factory Alarm Arm     purple (driver door key cylinder lock)  (-)    driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 4  

Factory Alarm Disarm  GREEN/ black (driver door key cylinder unlock)  double (-)  driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 8

Remember to set the Vipers internal jumper/fuse to (+) if you go with (+) Parking Lights.

H1/6 is not used for the bypass.  Use H2/19 ( or H2/3 ).

   H2/1    Pink/White    NA    (-) Flex

   H2/2    BLACK/ White            Ground   NSS
   H2/3    Blue/White              NA       2nd Status
   H2/4    GREEN/ Black            NA       OEM Disarm
   H2/5    RED / White NA       Trunk
   H2/6    Green         FL Door: GREEN/ YELLOW (-) FR Door: RED / Black (-) Rear L&R Doors: Pink/Black (-) with diode isolation
         or  GREEN/ YELLOW (-)  dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1F), pin 7
   H2/7    BLACK / YELLOW          Blue (-) Fusebox     Dome light
   H2/8    BROWN / Black           ???
   H2/9    Dark Blue   to ADs bypass module GWR
   H2/10   Pink           N.U.
   H2/11   WHITE/ Black           N.U.
   H2/12   Violet         N.U.
   H2/13   WHITE/ Violet           N.U.
   H2/14   Violet/Black N.U.
   H2/15   ORANGE / Black        N.U.
   H2/16   Brown       brake  Blue (+) dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13
   H2/17   Gray           hood pin
   H2/18   Violet / YELLOW          to relay for Starter2
   H2/19   Blue           to ADS GWR
   H2/20   Grey/Black   N.U.
   H2/21   WHITE/ Blue  N.U.
   H2/22   Orange      N.U.
   H2/23   Violet/White           Tach  BLACK/ white (ac)  @ OBD2, white 16 pin plug, pin 9     *** Set Viper to Tach Mode Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4
   H2/24   GREEN / WHITE          N.U.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:40 AM / IP Logged  

H3 harness

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT      BLACK/ Red @ ignition switch harness
2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2                 WHITE/ Red @ ignition switch harness
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT   WHITE/ Green @ ignition switch harness
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       GREEN/ Black @ ignition switch harness   - cut wire
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)            GREEN/ Black @ ignition switch harness   - cut wire
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT            WHITE/ Blue @ ignition switch harness
7 PINK/WHITE (+) Flex Relay output            Blue / YELLOW @ ignition switch harness
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A    N.U.
9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT        WHITE/ Blue @ ignition switch harness
10 N/C N/C

The vehicle has a Starter2 wire that must be power separately.  Use an external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay

with 20 Amp fuse and wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA Starter Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant with 20 A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma Starter2 BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

Soldering is fun!
riverdogg 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2012
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 7:24 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry guys, I messed up my own first post and hit Post New Topic instead of Preview Post before I was ready to post. (Face-palm) So feel free to take a few jabs at me. And thanks to kreg357 for jumping on this and already helping me out!
I'm planning out my first install of a Viper 5704 and an iDataLink ADS-TB transponder bypass in my 2005 Toyota Tacoma. I've gathered tons of info from searching several threads on the12volt. I've put together a chart on how I'm planning on wiring everything but have a few questions that I could really use some expertise on. Thanks!
Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4-door, V6
Alarm: Viper 5704 with remote start
Transponder Bypass: iDataLink ADS-TB (It’s been flashed with the appropriate firmware)
I put a number before each connection I have a question about. Example: (1). Below the chart are the corresponding questions. I hope this way of doing it isn't too confusing.
If you notice anything else that is wrong or just plain weird, please chime in about that too.
Main harness, 6-pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color        Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
H1/1    Red WHITE/ Blue (+)       Ignition Switch Harness
H1/2    Black Ground  Chassis Ground
H1/3    Brown  NA  Connects with siren
H1/4    WHITE/ Brown      NA
H1/5    White Green (+)  Fuse Box (Viper’s jumper set to +)
H1/6    Orange        NA
Door Lock, 3-Pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color    Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1       Blue GREEN/ Black        Driver's Kick panel into door
2       Empty
3       Green Purple        Driver's Kick panel into door
Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color  Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
   H2/1    Pink/White       NA
   H2/2    BLACK/ White      Ground
   H2/3    Blue/White       NA
   H2/4    GREEN/ Black      NA
   H2/5    RED / White        NA
   H2/6    Green FL Door: GREEN/ YELLOW (-)
   H2/6    Green FR Door: RED / Black (-)
   H2/6    Green Rear L&R Doors: Pink/Black (-)
(1) H2/7    BLACK / YELLOW     Blue (-)        Fusebox
(2) H2/8    BROWN / Black     GREEN/ Red (-)        Fusebox
(3) H2/9    Dark Blue      Blue/White (on bypass) Bypass
   H2/10   Pink NA
   H2/11   WHITE/ Black    NA
   H2/12   Violet NA
   H2/13   WHITE/ Violet   NA
   H2/14   Violet/Black   NA
   H2/15   ORANGE / Black   NA
   H2/16   Brown Blue (+) Brake
   H2/17   Gray  Hood pin switch
   H2/18*   Violet / YELLOW   BLACK/ White (+)        Ignition Switch
   H2/19   Blue  NA
   H2/20   Grey/Black     NA
   H2/21   WHITE/ Blue     NA
   H2/22   Orange        NA
   H2/23   Violet/White   BLACK/ White (AC)        Data Link Connector
   H2/24   GREEN / WHITE    NA
*H2/18. This needs to run through a 30/40A SPDT relay and be wired as follows:
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA Starter Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant with 20 A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma Starter2 BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate
Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
Wire    5704 Color       Tacoma Color  Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
(4) H3/1   Pink        BLACK/ Red (+)        Ignition Switch
(5) H3/2   RED / White        WHITE/ Red(+)        Ignition Switch
   H3/3   Orange        WHITE/ Green (+)        Ignition Switch
(6) H3/4   Violet        GREEN/ Black (+) (car side)        Ignition Switch
(6) H3/5   Green        GREEN/ Black (+) (key side)        Ignition Switch
   H3/6   Red        WHITE/ Blue(+)        Ignition Switch
   H3/7   Pink/White        Blue / YELLOW (+)        Ignition Switch
   H3/8   Pink/Black        NA
   H3/9   RED / Black        WHITE/ Blue (+)        Ignition Switch
   H3/10 Empty
iDataLink ADS-TB Transponder Bypass
Wire    Bypass Color       Tacoma/Viper Color      Tacoma/Viper Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
GWR (-) Input        Blue/White        Dark Blue        Viper, H2/9
Ground        Black        Black        Viper,H1/2
12V (+)        Red        Red        Viper, H1/1
Ignition (+) Input        Pink        Pink        Viper, H3/1
NC        Pink/Black        NA
NC        Orange        NA
NC        Grey / YELLOW        NA
TXCT     Gray/Red    LtGREEN/ Red     Ignition switch, 7-pin, pin 5
NC        GREEN/ YELLOW        NA
Code     GREEN/ Red     Pink/Green    Ignition switch, 7-pin, pin 4
NC        Blue / YELLOW   NA
NC        Blue/Red        NA
----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Questions
(1) Do I need a relay for the Dome Light Supervision wire (H2/7)? If yes, how would I wire that relay?
(2) I’m not sure I need to connect the Horn Honk Output (H2/8). Wouldn’t connecting this just honk the horn in addition to the sounding siren when the alarm is triggered? Should I connect this?
(3) Does the Status Output (H2/9) connect to the GWR of the bypass? Or is the Status Output left empty and GWR of the bypass goes to H2/19?
(4) I'm thinking the Ignition (+) Input on the bypass and the Viper’s Ignition 1 Input/Output (H3/1) both connect to the vehicle’s Ignition 1 wire. Is this correct?
(5) The 12V wire from the bypass as well as H1/1, H3/6, and H3/9 all connect to the same WHITE/ Blue 12 volt constant in the ignition switch harness. I’m assuming the answer is yes, but can I connect these four wires together and then connect them to the WHITE/ Blue 12 volt constant wire?
(6) From what I’ve gathered, I need to cut the Starter 1 wire in the ignition switch harness. Then take the car side of the Starter 1 wire and connect it to H3/4. And then take the key side of the Starter 1 wire and connect it to H3/5. I'm fairly certain this is right. I'm just a little apprehensive about cutting my truck's starter wire. I guess I'd just like conformation that this is right.
Thank you for your help!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 8:15 AM / IP Logged  

1.  You may not need Dome Light Supervision.  Does the dome light come on with an Unlock from

     the Factory FOB's?

2.  Horn Honk output is optional.  You do have an alarm siren.

3.  Sorry about that, I saw Blue with no label and thought GWR.  ADS GWR goes to Viper (-) Status Output H2/9

     only.  H2/19 is optional / N.U.

4.  Yes, you can connect the bypass's Pink Ignition wire to the Vipers thick Pink Ignition which then continues on

     to the vehicle.  Same for the Power and Ground, as you have shown.

5.  All four Viper Power wires need to be connected to an adequate +12V source.  There are two +12V constant

     wires at the ignition switch harness.  You can connect them there or there should be a very thick wire
     at the fuse box ( 140 Amps ) that you can use also.  Combining the wires and/or fusing them down is
     possible depending on the vehicles ignition wires needs, siren, parking lights, etc.

6.  Yes, for Viper Starter Kill, you must cut the vehicles starter wire.  However if you don't want this

     starter kill feature or don't want to cut the Starter wire at all, you can omit Starter Kill and only
     connect the Vipers H3/4 Violet wire to the intact vehicle Starter wire.

Soldering is fun!
riverdogg 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2012
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 1:30 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all the info!
1. Yes, the dome light comes on with the factory FOBs. Because of this, I shouldn't need to connect the Dome Light Supervision, right?
5. Is it possible to connect two wires to one of the 12V constant wires at the ignition and the other two wires to the 12V constant at the fuse box? I'm thinking this might reduce the overall power draw on one wire (i.e. it might be safer). If this is possible, does it make a difference on which wires go to each of the 12V constant wires?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 2:59 PM / IP Logged  

1.  Yes, Domelight Supervision shouldn't be necessary.

5.  Definitely, split the Viper power wires between vehicle +12V constants to distribute the load and make for an easier install.

The ADS TB is a good choice.  Easy to program and very reliable.

Good luck with the install!

Soldering is fun!
riverdogg 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2012
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
Great! Thanks for the info kreg. You've been invaluable! I'll hopefully start on all of this tomorrow morning and have it up and running tomorrow afternoon.
riverdogg 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2012
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged  
One more quick question before I go to Radio Shack and get my supplies. Are 1 amp diodes good enough for the H2/6 connections to each of the door triggers? I'm thinking a 1 amp like THIS should work. Or do I need a larger diode? Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2012 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, they ( 1N4005 ) will work.  Actually any 1N400x diode should be OK.
Soldering is fun!
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