2001 suburban and viper 5101

Hi, I have some experience installing this remote starter... I have installed this model on a 99 Crown Vic and a 95 Tahoe...

But I am intimidated by installing on a 2001... I have never installed a bypass kit and never had to mess with factory alarms...

I am not too worried about finding starter wires, but the factory alarm and bypass and some of the other things have me baffled...

I like the fact that dome lights come on when unlocking doors... I don't wanna lose that... I know when I shut off the car with key the radio stays on till I open the door...Don't want that on remote start....

I always get confused on door locks... but you guys have always set me straight...

Can anyone give me insight on the bypass and factory alarms... Or maybe a heads up on what to expect when installing in a 2001 Suburban?

The photos in this Pictorial for a Silverado were from 2000 and 2002 models and should be very similar to your truck :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135786

Shutting down the radio after a R/S time-out is RAP shutdown and usually achieved with a pulse to a Door Trigger wire.  While there were no pictures of the Door Trigger wires in the Pictorial, they are described in later discussion.

The Door Locks are Type A.  They need a +12V signal so a DEI 451M module will be required to convert the R/S (-) outputs.  You could also use relays but the 451M can be found for less than $9 and is a very neat / compact package.

The install is fairly easy, with good access to the BCM right under the steering column.

If you want a real easy bypass module to install, try the Fortin INT-SL+.  It only handles the Passlock2, comes pre-loaded with firmware and has just one connection directly to the truck ( the other necessary wires can piggy back off wires from the Viper ).  Here is a link to the INT-SL+ install guide :  https://fortin.ca/download/3966/int-sl%2B_installation_guide.rev-20120308.pdf  The ADS TBSL PL module used in the Pictorial is another excellent choice.  It comes pre-loaded and install is similar to the Fortin INT-SL+.  Here is a link to the ADS TBSL PL install guide :  https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-PL/ADS-TBSL-PL_20110120.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357,

Thanks you have answered all my questions <for now> I feel confident I will not have any other issues unless something unforeseen comes up...

I tried searching I just guess my Google Fu skills are weak...

Again thanks...

Okay... I lied...

I have totally confused myself on the passlock hookup... I am trying to understand this before I do the install and I just am confusing myself

I have never hooked one up...

Am I to understand instead of the RS controlling functions like IE door locks instead of the Viper?...

And once installed will the truck start with a non resistant key?

There is alot more to the install than I thought... I was under the impression that all the passlock needed and was supposed to do was show resistance for the switch when RS is activated, not control all other functions too...

Basically, the remote start / keyless entry install is the same as others you have done.  The only difference is the additional wiring for the bypass module for the vehicles Passlock2 system.  It's just a few extra wires to connect.  The Viper controls the bypass module and the bypass module does what it has to do when commanded by the Viper.  Don't over think the install.  After making the connections and programming the modules everything happens automatically.

On a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban, the bypass modules mentioned above only perform the Passlock2 bypass function.
There are some bypass modules from XpressKit, like the DB-ALL, that will do other functions.  I am not a DB-ALL user
and am not familiar with that application.  IMHO, the truck is very easy to do, with all the necessary wires available right
under the steering column and BCM, that a less expensive basic Passlock2 bypass module is all I use.  There are two
general type of Passlock2 bypass modules.  The first, older type makes direct wire connections to the vehicles Passlock2
wires.  The newer Data style bypass modules ( mentioned previously ) only require one connection to the Violet wire
at Pin 2 of the OBD2 connector.   With either type of bypass module, the vehicles Passlock2 immobilizer system will still
provide theft protection and the vehicle will still function / start normally with a key.  ( Remember that the actual resistance
is inside the ignition cylinder, not on the key like the VATS system ).

Lets assume an install using the Viper 5101 and a Fortin INT-SL+ bypass module. 
The Viper 5101 is a remote start with keyless entry system.  It uses 5 button, one way remotes.  With a basic install you
will control the vehicles power door locks, Factory alarm and be able to remote start the engine.
The Viper 5101 will be directly connected to the vehicles BCM wires to control the Parking Lights, horn and Factory alarm.
The Viper 5101 will be directly connected to the vehicles Tach wire at the back of the instrument panel and the Brake wire
at the pedal switch connector.
The Viper 5101 will control the power door locks through a DEI 451M door lock module that is connected to the correct
wires at the BCM.
The Viper 5101 will be connected to the vehicles thick ignition wires at the steering column to allow a remote start.
The Viper will control the Fortin INT-SL+ bypass module ( using the Dark Blue (-) Status Output wire ) to bypass the
Passlock2 immobilizer system during a remote start.
The Fortin INT-SL+ will be connected to the vehicles Purple J1850 Data wire at Pin 2 of the OBD2 connector to perform
the Passlock2 bypass function. 
The Fortin INT-SL+ has some other wire connections that are made directly to the Viper 5101.

Rather that spend a lot of time on "what-ifs", you should decide on the exact modules / equipment that you want to use
and make up a wire connection chart like the one in the Pictorial.  The Pictorial used a Avital 4101 and it's wire names /
terminology is similar to the Viper 5101.  Post the chart and the Forum members can look it over and provide some sage
input.

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Soldering is fun!

Well after many months of procrastination I went ahead and bought a viper 4105v and a ads tbsl pl bypass

Now my problem... it won't start.. my battery is dead and the horn won't honk when I lock or unlock the doors... I have the tach hooked up to the white wire on cluster and I am just lost.

I don't have the hood shut off pin connected.

The truck turns over but doesn't crank...

What should I check?

First, put your battery on a nice over-night charge to get it ready for tomorrow.  It's not unusual to have a weak battery go low during an extended install.

Next, please list you wire connections.  Forum members will look it over and give you corrections if errors are seen.  To make it easy, here is a connector pin out of your Viper 4105 unit.  Any wire not used, just list as N.U.

Main Harness, 9-pin connector
1 LIGHT GREEN BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM
2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM
3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
5 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN LOCKED/ANTI-GRIND OUTPUT
6 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUT
7 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
8 BLACK GROUND
9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT

Remote start, 6-pin connector
1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
2 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION/ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
5 PURPLE OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT
6 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT

Satellite harness, 4-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT

Remote Start harness, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE
4 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK

Also list your ADS TBSL PL connections, to both the truck and the Viper.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks guys after a good nights recharge of me and battery I was able to find the issue...

I hadd to reset the ADS TBSL PL and re program... now it starts up fine...

Now I need to get the horn to honk on lock and unlock...

I didnt do a RAP shutdown on the radio...couldnt figure out... this starter doesnt seem to have a RAP signal...( I may have missed)

Okay got horn to work

I really don't for see any issues with the radio not shutting down...

For RAP, you could try connecting the Vipers GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM wire to this wire :
Driver Door Trigger     Tan (-)       @ BCM, Purple plug, Pin B4

Here is Vipers' description of the GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM  : 
This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start shuts down or the doors are locked. 

This pulse would make the Suburban think a door was opened for 1 second every time the Viper output this Rearm signal.

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Soldering is fun!

Awesome. ..I will have to try that when I get a chance...done ran out of time and off days :)

Thanks worked like a charm... :)

Alright... I have a question or an issue?

I remote start my truck and let it run... but when I shut it off the radio does not turn off until I unlock and relock the doors...

I though it would shut off when I turned off remote start too....

When I first hooked the wire to the the tan B4 on purple plug I thought it worked...

Sorry this is what I did

GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM wire to this wire :
Driver Door Trigger Tan (-) @ BCM, Purple plug, Pin B4

Probably should test the Viper to ensure it is outputting the Rearm signal after a manual remote start shutdown.  Also, test / verify that Tan wire is the driver's door pin. 

Test that the radio shuts off after a manual remote start shutdown by quickly opening the drivers door and closing it.  Then you could manually try applying a chassis ground via a jumper cable to the Tan wire after a manual remote start shutdown to see if it turns off the radio.

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Soldering is fun!

I've used the grn/wht FAR to deactivate RAP the way Kreg describes. It works on a manual RS shutdown as well as a time-out shutdown.

Another option is to just let the RAP timeout and shut off on its own. Which it should after 10 minutes or so.