2007 Dball2/Viper5301 MTS requirements

Just for fun, try checking the ebake status in d2d.

mscguy wrote:

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Just for fun, try checking the ebake status in d2d.

---

I just set
ST-Hand brake to
- Checked

Unfortunately, just the same disapproving buzz from the remote and a red LED next to the F-key

I had unchecked it since I was using the E-Brake to supply the ground for the BLK/WHT Neutral Safety input.

I have been trying to be methodical about not have multiple sources for the same inputs, but that was a good thought.


-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Does the vehicle stay running when you go through the manual trans steps?

If so, does it only give the error when you try to restart it?

mscguy wrote:

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Does the vehicle stay running when you go through the manual trans steps?

If so, does it only give the error when you try to restart it?

---

No.... it does not stay running and it gives the same error while trying to set MTS or attempting to start without the sequences. Just the negative tone and red LED next to the function key.

The steps I have taken to test.

Testing in A/T Mode
Understand, that when I tested this in A/T mode I thought I was in MTS mode. The testing had me thinking I was in MTS because the resulting feedback while performing the sequence made sense for being in MTS. I had been working on it for most of the day and had forgotten that earlier I switched modes to test that the RS was functional.

(1) Started the vehicle with the key in neutral with parking break on.
(2) Applied brake
(3) within 20 seconds I hit the start button on the remote.
   (a) Remote feedback - a positive sequence of tones and green LED
   (b) relays clicks(parking light flashes)
(4) Turned key to off and removed the key.
   (a) engine remained running.
(5) Opened and shut door.
(6) Pressed start button on remote a second time.
   (a) Engine Shutdown.
(7) Pressed start button on remote a third time.
   (a) Green LED and positive tones.
   (b) Instrument cluster test and Ignition Sequence.
   (c) Engine starts
(8) Tried to start again without going through the sequence.
   (a) Then engine started anyway.. oops I'm not in MTS mode

Testing after switching back to MTS mode.

(1) Started engine with key.
(2) Just for good measure pressed and held the command button within five seconds to relearn the tach signal(now moved to injector signal wire.)
   (a) After about 1-2 seconds I get a solid blue light..(A Successful Tach Learning Sequence)
(3) Applied brake
(4) Within 20 seconds hit the start button on remote.
   (a) Remote Feedback - Negative tone with red LED next to F button.
(5) Turn Key to off position and remove key.
   (a)Engine shuts down
   (b)Last shutdown - caused by MTS (7 blinks)
(6) Verified that programming (3/2) was set to tach only.
(7) Verified N/O contacts and left hood wire isolated from ground.
(8) Verified that brake shutdown does work while RS in A/T mode.
(9) Verified a (W2W) E-brake ground signal for Neutral Safety
(10)Scratched head for a bit...Then complied list of current connections and sent to forum for review.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

When you say "apply brake". I assume you mean the parking brake. After applying parking brake, press and release the brake pedal. Then press the button on the remote.

mscguy wrote:

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When you say "apply brake". I assume you mean the parking brake. After applying parking brake, press and release the brake pedal. Then press the button on the remote.

---

I actually meant step on the brake. Does it matter when the parking brake is applied or just that it is engaged during the sequence.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

If the vehicle has a manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the engine is running and the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash 5-times confirming that the remote start is active.
If the parking lights do not flash 5-times, then repeat steps 1 - 6.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car stays running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Lock the system. (the vehicle shuts off when locking the system).
You can now remote start the vehicle. If a door is opened before the next remote
start activation the system will not remote start.

Maybe that's why. You're starting the sequence with the parking brake engaged.

I will try the exact sequence including applying the parking brake after the sequence begins. I assume when they say lock the system that they are referring to the car doors not some special key combination on the remote.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I will try the exact sequence including applying the parking brake after the sequence begins. I assume when they say lock the system that they are referring to the car doors not some special key combination on the remote.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

The DEI products MTS Reservation Mode is a PITA.  That's why I prefer Compustar products.  Here are their steps to
enter into Reservation Mode :

Activating Reservation Mode
STEP 1: Start the vehicle with the key. Place the transmission in neutral, remove pressure from the foot
  brake, and set the emergency/parking brake.
STEP 2: Remove the key from the vehicle’s ignition. The vehicles engine should remain running even
  after the key has been removed.
STEP 3: Exit the vehicle and close the door. The vehicle’s engine should shut off upon closing the door
  and the doors will lock.

The Firstech Compustar system is in reservation mode and the vehicle is ready to safely remote start.

Pretty straight forward.  Of course, everything must be connected and wired properly.  At Step 1, when you step on the
brake pedal, release and set the EBrake, the Parking Lights come on and the car is kinda in PitStop Mode.  At Step 3,
the engine will continue running until it sees a door open then and all the doors close.  You can program a 10 second
delay between the last door closed and the door lock.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Ok, well that initially did not work.
1)However, while I thought I had verified that everything was working I was assuming that because the door locks functioned ok in D2D that the trunk status would also be ok. But manually popping the trunk when the alarm was set did not cause it to alert. So, I removed it from D2D and added it back to the DBALL2 W2W inputs. This fixed the problem with the alarm detecting the trunk opening. I was then able to set MTS, and I can confirm that it does require the exact sequence. For example, simply the fact that the handbrake set is not good enough.

2) Unfortunately, while this allowed the Viper to enter MTS mode I noticed that the door locks were not functioning while in this mode. So, I did the same thing as I did with the trunk and wired W2W to the DBALL2 for lock/unlock, as well as status and removed The D2D checkboxes. While this corrected the problem with the door not locking I had to move the status of the doors back to D2D to get it to enter MTS.

Currently, The following is where I am at:
1)Viper will enter MTS and engine will continue running after key removal.
2)After exiting vehicle the engine will now shutdown upon door lock.
3)the problem....Engine will not start again from remote. Will start in A/T mode.

I'm so close... Did I miss an MTS step if I got to that point? I'm so close.






-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I really want to make this work the way it is now. Unfortunately, many of the problems I have been experiencing seem to point to the DBALL2 and possibly the Honda4 firmware. Specifically, it's ability to support any given feature set through D2D or W2W/CAN BUS. Some features work over one but not the other it seems. I say this because If it were a problem with wiring or noise being induced then I would expect it to have affected all features equally. So, if there is not an easy fix to my current situation can some offer a proven solution to interface a M/T 07 Honda Civic si and a Viper 5301 LE (4x02)?

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Does it attempt to crank at all? What are you getting for parking light flashes?

kreg357 wrote:

---

The DEI products MTS Reservation Mode is a PITA.  That's why I prefer Compustar products.  Here are their steps to
enter into Reservation Mode :

Activating Reservation Mode
STEP 1: Start the vehicle with the key. Place the transmission in neutral, remove pressure from the foot
brake, and set the emergency/parking brake.
STEP 2: Remove the key from the vehicle’s ignition. The vehicles engine should remain running even
after the key has been removed.
STEP 3: Exit the vehicle and close the door. The vehicle’s engine should shut off upon closing the door
and the doors will lock.

The Firstech Compustar system is in reservation mode and the vehicle is ready to safely remote start.

Pretty straight forward.  Of course, everything must be connected and wired properly.  At Step 1, when you step on the
brake pedal, release and set the EBrake, the Parking Lights come on and the car is kinda in PitStop Mode.  At Step 3,
the engine will continue running until it sees a door open then and all the doors close.  You can program a 10 second
delay between the last door closed and the door lock.

---

I agree about MTS being a picky PITA. After all what difference does it make if you follow a sequence or have all necessary conditions in place. Either scenario would assure the same level of safety.



-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

bs1d3] wrote:

---

Does it attempt to crank at all? What are you getting for parking light flashes?

---

It does not try to crank at all. I have a detailed list of events a few posts up.
Here is a direct link.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

mscguy wrote:

---

If the vehicle has a manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the engine is running and the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash 5-times confirming that the remote start is active.
If the parking lights do not flash 5-times, then repeat steps 1 - 6.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car stays running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Lock the system. (the vehicle shuts off when locking the system).
You can now remote start the vehicle. If a door is opened before the next remote
start activation the system will not remote start.

Maybe that's why. You're starting the sequence with the parking brake engaged.

---

I wanted to clarify that I am getting to the end of this list of steps. I receive a MTS(7-Blinks) failure after completing step 10 and afterthe vehicle shuts off when locking the system.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I feel your pain.  It's so frustrating to have everything exactly right and not get the desired results. 

With that era / Gen of Civic's, my philosophy was K.I.S.S.  I would use a solid but inexpensive transponder bypass module
like the PKH34 and hardwire the rest.  Most of the wires are right there at the fuse / junction box.

The four door trigger (-) wires are in the Green 42 Pin plug at the top of the fuse box. 
Driver Front, Pin 37 = Green
Driver Rear,  Pin 17 = Brown
Pass Front,   Pin 3 =   Light Green
Pass Rear,    Pin 2 =   Gray
Use four 1N4001 diodes ( bands towards the car ) to each wire then combines all wires into one and connect to
R/S (-) Door Trigger Input.

The Trunk Trigger (-) is in the same plug, Blue wire at Pin 37.

The Brake Pedal (+) wire is in that same plug, Light Green wire, middle of the top row of pins.  You can also go to the
actual Brake pedal switch, same color wire.

You already have the Door Lock and Unlock wires.  The Arm and Disarm wires are in the same MICU connector or
harness in the DKP.  Arm is Orange or Pink ( 2 or 4 door ) and Disarm is Brown.

The E-Brake (-) can be found at the E-Brake switch or, if you don't want to run a wire to the center console, in a White Plug
on the right side of the steering column.  Should be a very Light Blue wire.

Tach went to the non-common color wire at any F.I.

I would install a hood pin ( alarm ) or tilt switch ( R/S only ) and be pretty much done.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

I feel your pain.  It's so frustrating to have everything exactly right and not get the desired results. 

With that era / Gen of Civic's, my philosophy was K.I.S.S.  I would use a solid but inexpensive transponder bypass module
like the PKH34 and hardwire the rest.  Most of the wires are right there at the fuse / junction box.

The four door trigger (-) wires are in the Green 42 Pin plug at the top of the fuse box. 
Driver Front, Pin 37 = Green
Driver Rear,  Pin 17 = Brown
Pass Front,   Pin 3 =   Light Green
Pass Rear,    Pin 2 =   Gray
Use four 1N4001 diodes ( bands towards the car ) to each wire then combines all wires into one and connect to
R/S (-) Door Trigger Input.

The Trunk Trigger (-) is in the same plug, Blue wire at Pin 37.

The Brake Pedal (+) wire is in that same plug, Light Green wire, middle of the top row of pins.  You can also go to the
actual Brake pedal switch, same color wire.

You already have the Door Lock and Unlock wires.  The Arm and Disarm wires are in the same MICU connector or
harness in the DKP.  Arm is Orange or Pink ( 2 or 4 door ) and Disarm is Brown.

The E-Brake (-) can be found at the E-Brake switch or, if you don't want to run a wire to the center console, in a White Plug
on the right side of the steering column.  Should be a very Light Blue wire.

Tach went to the non-common color wire at any F.I.

I would install a hood pin ( alarm ) or tilt switch ( R/S only ) and be pretty much done.

---

Kreg357,
1)Thanks for the door trigger info. I have plenty of 1N4001 diodes in my man cave/electronics workshop for that, so I am good to go there.

2)Trunk Trigger (-) I will add the trunk wire W2W while I am there. Is there any chance that the Trunk Output is there as well?

3)Tach is already run directly to F.I.

4)The Brake peddle (+) is already W2W to the switch.

5)E-Brake is already W2W through the center console to the Handbrake Switch and providing a ground for the Neutral Safety wire.

6)Hood wire is run to the engine compartment but not connected yet while I'm testing since its N/O Contacts.

7)Arm/Disarm are currently handled as options in D2D. I will try W2W on those as well.


-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

To do the Trunk Release directly ( instead of Data via the DB-ALL2 ) you will need a relay to convert the Vipers'
(-) Trunk Release Output to a (+) signal that the Civic needs.  The (+) Trunk Release wire is in that same Green
42 Pin plug.  It is a Green wire that will test as a (+) pulse when the trunk is popped.  Relay wiring :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper (-) Trunk Release Output
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through a 10 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Civic Green wire
Relay Pin 87a not used

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Since, the snow is dumping pretty heavy right now I figured I would make up the diode pack and prep the anti-grind relay with the diodes it needs.

(-) Door Trigger relay pack🤓
Sorry, I could not help myself



-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Now if you could only train it to do a self-install...      Actually, that 42 Pin Plug is accessible, it's just the plug cover that is a PITA to remove.

Ah, a Hakko soldering station and quality Scotch electric tape.  Excellent!  I'm using their HAKKO FX 601 Soldering Iron for my in-vehicle work.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, I have lots of tools for this sort of thing. I still have a decent gas soldering iron from when used to install commercial access control systems and CCTV. Unfortunately, it does not consistently hot enough to do the ignition wires. I ended up running an extension cord outside and used my Hakko. I work in IT now but I never lost the soldering bug.

Since the last photo it has evolved a bit. I really am bored, lol.



-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Kreg,
Woo hoo!!!, That was it!!! It just needed W2W connections for the doors and trunk status inputs. Grrrr... Unreliable Time Saving features...I should have known better regarding D2D and or the DBALL2 for anything picky like MTS mode. 🙄The next install will be W2W for everything from the start.



-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Good news!    Glad you got it sorted out.  Sometimes the old school, direct way is the best.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Kreg,
So, while the the remote start works now after the W2W of the door and trunk triggers, the trunk release still is an issue. You mentioned earlier that I could convert one of the (-) AUX output with a relay to be (+)12V using a relay. Well, I found this laying around and wired it up for that purpose. It's a little ugly but it's solid. You have to love that hot glue. The only question I really have is if a relay that is rated 5A / 30VDC is heavy duty enough. I saw that right above that rating it also listed 10A / 30VDC. Maybe the higher rating is pulsed and the orther is latched?
Here is a picture with the specifications visible.


-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Not sure exactly the current load of that vehicle circuit.  You could take a fused jumper wire with a DMM set to DC Amps in-line to measure the vehicles trunk release solenoid current draw.  The relay you have is not a Solid State relay but rather a SPST +12V coil relay.   Here is a link to the Spec Sheet :  https://www.goodsky.com.tw/files/New%20Datasheet/SMIT_relay.pdf

I'd guess that it will handle the trunk solenoid but definitely fuse it at 10 Amps.  Worst case the fuse blows ( or the relay is damaged ) but the car will be OK.  Standard Bosh style automotive relays ( SPDT 30/40 Amp ) with the 5 wire harness can be found on-line for < $5 in quantities of 1. 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

The relay you have is not a Solid State relay but rather a SPST +12V coil relay.

---

When I said it was solid I only meant that the wires were physically secure due to the hot glue around the wire/pin solider joints. Sorry for any confusion on that. I can see from the part number why you might have thought I was thinking along those lines though. Thank you for the spec sheet though.
I was thinking that the trunk release current load might have a typical rule of thumb. If not I can certainly try and meter it out. I am not sure if my meter would grab and hold a pulsed value. I guess there is only one way to find out.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get an Engine Compartment DEI warning label, since the factory refurbished units do not include one.

Thanks,

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

How many do you want?    I was thinking of having a garage sale on them and the hood pins that come in the kit.

PM me your address and I'll send a few.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the offer. Last night I found one from a previous install buried in my man-cave.

I have another question though, lol.

I installed that relay I sent a picture of earlier. It works great, although for some reason I have to unlock the doors to disable the factory alarm before popping the trunk or the alarm goes off.

So, it seems that:
1)trunk release works
2)trunk status works
3)factory alarm ARM/Disarm works, just not when holding the AUX button to activate the trunk release.
Is there a setting I am missing or is there an install trick used to achieve this.



-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28 wrote:

---

Thanks for the offer. Last night I found one from a previous install buried in my man-cave.

I have another question though, lol.

I installed that relay I sent a picture of earlier. It works great, although for some reason I have to unlock the doors to disable the factory alarm before popping the trunk or the alarm goes off.

So, it seems that:
1)trunk release works
2)trunk status works
3)factory alarm ARM/Disarm works, just not when holding the AUX button to activate the trunk release.
Is there a setting I am missing or is there an install trick used to achieve this.

---

The more I think about it the more I am convinced that the DBALL2 once again is my problem. Since, the trunk release and the trunk status are now W2W to the RS the alarm ARM/disarm wires which still connected to the DBALL2 are not getting the message. Grrr.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Well, you know what you have to do now. Rip it all out and put in an Idatalink product. :) j/k   

Check the programming on Menu 2, Item 5 OEM disarm w/ aux/trunk. Default is "ON" but check anyway.

Otherwise, what's another couple wires to hardwire at this point :)

mscguy wrote:

---

Well, you know what you have to do now. Rip it all out and put in an Idatalink product. :) j/k   

Check the programming on Menu 2, Item 5 OEM disarm w/ aux/trunk. Default is "ON" but check anyway.

Otherwise, what's another couple wires to hardwire at this point :)

---

Thanks, I will check on that setting and I agree with you that its only a couple of more wires.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Well, since it's only a couple more wires I started to dig into the fuse box again only to be completely unsuccessful finding the arm/disarm wires. I have been looking at two sources of documents which have worked for me until now.
The spread sheet that was available here when looking up the 2007 civic and the service manual.
The spreadsheet indicates a 34 pin plug with orange and brown wires occupying pins 31 & 32. I am not sure there is a 34 pin plug anywhere on the drivers side fuse box. additionall, it appears that the orange and brown wires I need are listed in the service manual as belonging to pins 8 and 13 connected to MICU somewhere. Unable to find them out front, I pulled the fuse box again and non of the smaller plugs connected to the rear line up with those pin numbers either, as far as I can tell. See images below for my current mess and relevant doc. Am I completely off base on this one? I remember before using the KC DRVR wires on my wife's pilot.





-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28 wrote:

---

Additionally, it appears that the orange and brown wires I need are listed in the service manual as belonging to pins 8 and 13 connected to MICU.

---

Correction, it should read 7 & 13

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

See if you can find them in the connector going into the drivers door harness in the drivers kick.

Factory Alarm Arm      orange or pink (driver door key lock)      -      driver kick, door harness, white 18 pin plug, pin 13     
Factory Alarm Disarm      brown (driver door key unlock)      -      driver kick, door harness, white 18 pin plug, pin 7



Thats the C752 connector in the middle of your wiring diagram you posted.

Thanks, I saw MICU and thought it would be one of the fusebox plugs. I do know the plug your talking about. It is square in shape and has several rows, as opposed to the typical longer two row plugs.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I managed to dig this up, if you wanted to take a closer look at that green plug in your picture. Looks like a likely candidate.

If you are referring to the large green plug in front and to the right is 42 pins.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Ok, think I found it.


-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Well, got it back together and It still alarms with the trunk open. However this only happens through the two-way remote, not the factory alarm. Additionally, it only happens when the trunk is opened using the vipers remote. Opening the trunk with the factory key remote does not cause this. I suppose it isn't surprising since the trunk release on the factory key now not only pops the trunk it also unlocks all the doors. Did I need to diode isolate something? I did take the unlock/lock function away from the DBALL2 by wiring the blue and green directly to the wires the dball2 was connected to in factory harness. Maybe it needs to stay connected????

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28 wrote:

---

Maybe it needs to stay connected????

---

I am referring to the unlock/lock on the dball2. The reason I mention it is because it showed that those wires where required to prevent issues with the factory alarm. However, I figured that would only be the case if lock/unlock wasn't W2W to the harness from the R/S. Maybe this was a work around for something CAN BUS related?


-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Blue & green wires? Did you connect the 5301 door lock and unlock wires to the factory alarm arm and disarm wires? Maybe I read that wrong.

Do I need a quenching diode across the trunk release relay coil to prevent the factory pulse from feeding back through the coil to the R/S since the relay shares the + for the coil and the pulse? Ie...(-) trigger

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I guess I did read it wrong.   You connected h2/1 and h2/3 to the factory alarm disarm and arm wires correct?

I assumed you were going to leave lock and unlock as it was, and just wire in the arm and disarm viper wires.

mscguy wrote:

---

I guess I did read it wrong.   You connected h2/1 and h2/3 to the factory alarm disarm and arm wires correct?
I assumed you were going to leave lock and unlock as it was, and just wire in the arm and disarm viper wires.

---

I connected the arm/disarm wires to h2/1 & h2/2. H2/3 is the AUX1 input on the 5301. While I was in there I thought I would just direct wire the lock/unlock as well. I figured it would be better since everything else other than the immo was off of it. As you can see in the diagram below, there are separate lock/unlock feeds from the dball2 to the R/S and also from the dball2 to the factory harness. I was hoping to eliminate all of that and just go straight from the R/S to the harness. It may not have anything to do with any of it, but I thought it was worth mentioning.




-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

mscguy wrote:

---

Blue & green wires? Did you connect the 5301 door lock and unlock wires to the factory alarm arm and disarm wires? Maybe I read that wrong.

---

No, sorry for any confusion. The disarm/arm before where being handled by D2D. These went W2W to 31 & 32 brn/org on the 34 pin plug you mentioned.

The Lock/unlock was just something I was trying to cleanup and thought may have caused some issues since the dball2 had a note on connecting it's unlock/lock out directly to the harness. There is a little box with that text in the image I sent.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I moved the blue and green lock/unlock input wires from the R/S back to the dball2, as well as the lock/unlock output wires from the dball2 to the harness. This was not causing the strange trunk release. Maybe I just never noticed it before.

The arm/disarm wires are still directly connected to the brown and orange wires on the 34 pin plug.

I did notice that pin 22 on the 34 pin plug was light blue and there is a reference to the door/keyless entry system. Would you know by chance if that wire happens to be the elusive second unlock wire?

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

That light blue pin 22 looks to be the Passenger door lock Knob switch. Goes to ground when you pull up the passenger door lock knob.

I assume that since you put the door locks back, and connected the arm/disarm wires, that the trunk alarm problem still exists?

Did you check that menu option I mentioned a little ways back?

mscguy wrote:

---

That light blue pin 22 looks to be the Passenger door lock Knob switch. Goes to ground when you pull up the passenger door lock knob.

I assume that since you put the door locks back, and connected the arm/disarm wires, that the trunk alarm problem still exists?

Did you check that menu option I mentioned a little ways back?

---

I connected the light blue wire to pin 22 and set menu option 2/7 to setting 2(2nd unlock after first) - no luck on a second unlock so I guess its a different light blue wire.

Yeah, the remote starts making alarm sounds with all the LEDs flashing. It is interesting though that when I open the trunk it does not "goes off" immediately, it waits about 15-20 seconds.

Regarding menu option 2/5, I hit the the lock button on the remote and heard two beeps which means it was on Default and advanced to the 2nd setting. I moved through back to Default and backed out.

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28 wrote:

---

Regarding menu option 2/5, I hit the the lock button on the remote and heard two beeps which means it was on Default and advanced to the 2nd setting. I moved through back to Default and backed out.

---

Am I correct in this assumption? ............which means it was on Default and advanced to the 2nd setting.

loknar28 wrote:

---

It is interesting though that when I open the trunk Viper alarm does not "goes off" immediately, it waits about 15-20 seconds.

---

Is this normal behavior? like a "door held open" feature?

-------------
2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

I'm running out of ideas.

What input is your trunk connected to on your r/s?

mscguy wrote:

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I'm running out of ideas.

What input is your trunk connected to on your r/s?

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Sorry for the delay getting back to you. Honey-Do-Lists      

Trunk Status (-)
blue - fuse box, top 42 pin plug

Trunk Release (+)
Heavy Green Wire - fuse box, top 42 pin plug


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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Yeah, but what wire is your trunk status connected to on your viper? Is it shared with the doors?

mscguy wrote:

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Yeah, but what wire is your trunk status connected to on your viper? Is it shared with the doors?

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You know what, looking at the the Viper Install guide I am now noticing that there is no trunk status wire. Prior to installation with the DBALL2 I prepped the wiring, creating a harness between the two devices. Looking at the DBALL2 guide it simply states that you should connect the DBALL2 trunk status output to the Viper's trunk status input. The dball2 wire is RED / blk and I most likely did connect this to the (-) door status on the Viper, since the one for the trunk does not exist. How else would you monitor the trunk status? I will need to unwrap the harness to verify this, but I suspect that this is the case. I think I also did not use a diode on that guy. If they are connected together through the same viper interface I guess that could be important.


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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Yeah, you mentioned a while back that you wires the trunk w2w as per kregs instructions, so I'm assuming you connected it to the door wire.

Yeah seems like that maybe the problem? So in this situation is the door wire an appropriate location for trunk status? It seems like an odd physical input to leave out. There is RED / WHT for trunk release so do you not need the status wire? When I originally was wiring the dball I guess I assumed that it would be fine for the alarm to see the trunk as just another door so I wasn't to worried about it. In this case I guess the thinks one of the doors is open when the door alarm has not been disabled. Maybe I just need to cut that input. Would you agree?

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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

For clarification I do not mean the entire door input, just the trunk signal wire that is triggering that input.

In any case I do appreciate the time that Kreg and you have given me to iron out my issues. If either of you have any networking or other IT questions, please do not hesitate to send me a message.


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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

If you open a door, does the alarm go off right away?

I have the alarm set to disarm on unlock, so I assume that it arms upon lock. How would I test this? I know that if I stay in the vehicle and the alarm arms....i.e. door locks on timer, and I then turn the key in the ignition that the factory alarm goes off immediately.

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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Roll down the window, close the door, arm the system, wait a minute, reach in and open the door.

If I remember your wiring diagram correctly, your car has seperate disarm switches in the door lock knobs, so this method should only set off your viper alarm.

Ok, I did the following.

1) started car and rolled down window.
2) shutdown car and closed door
3) locked vehicle with the viper remote.
4) Reaching through window, I unlocked the door manually....physical unlock rocker next to handle. Pulling the inside handle on its own doesn't unlock the door unlike some other vehicles out there.
5) I then opened the door using the inside handle. This did not trigger either the Viper or the OEM Alarm.


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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

And you made w2w connections to the door pins right?

mscguy wrote:

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And you made w2w connections to the door pins right?

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Yes, The Viper (H8-GRN) (-) Door Trigger input is connected diode isolated (-) toward the vehicle harness:

42 pin plug
A)GRN - 37
B)LT GRN - 3

On a positive note the 2nd unlock(progressive) is working.



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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Yeah, that all looks fine.

Just for fun, can you connect a wire to the H8 (-) door trigger, drag it out the window to the battery, close the door, arm the system, wait a minute, then touch the wire to ground. Just to see if the alarm goes off right away. Seems weird that there is a 45 second delay before anything happens when you open the trunk.

mscguy wrote:

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Yeah, that all looks fine.

Just for fun, can you connect a wire to the H8 (-) door trigger, drag it out the window to the battery.

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If the door triggers were not working would MTS mode allow the remote start to work? I would think that doubtful.

mscguy wrote:

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Seems weird that there is a 45 second delay before anything happens when you open the trunk.

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I know.....Is any of this because it is a 5xxx Responder LE. It does not have a siren output. As you would expect it does have a horn output though.

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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX

Good point. I keep forgetting about your manual trans.

Yeah, I guess what is important is working reliably, so if the delayed trunk alarm is my only problem then I guess I should feel happy and leave it be, lol.

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2016 Toyota Highlander
2007 Honda Civic Si
2004 Honda Pilot EX