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Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=140883
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 12:58 AM


Topic: Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger

Posted By: tactical-gears
Subject: Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger
Date Posted: February 20, 2016 at 11:19 PM

Hello there this is my first post, my name is Pete,

I have a 2006 dodge charger and recently am trying to install a Viper 5906v with theXPressKit DEI DBALL2 and i added the harness which made it kinda easy for starters.. I have connected most of the easy wires with no problem,

My issue is the remote start, 10 pin heavy gauge connector. i only have the violet and green connected . I keep seeing it may require a relay, but if someone has done this to this particular car and you have pictures or diagrams please share them. I do-NOT have much trouble identifying the wires it's mostly connecting the 10-pin heavy gauge wires to where they should go and which wires can go together as i seen several vids where they bunch up the reds and pinks. Not sure..

NOTE: i do have the wiring print out form the car and the install paper from Viper. Thanks

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"



Replies:

Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 27, 2016 at 3:27 PM
geepherder wrote:

You have several wires on your system that need constant power. Do not connect them all to the white wire in your ignition harness. Do not connect them all to the BLACK/ red wire in your ignition harness. Connect half of them to the white wire, and the other half to the BLACK/ red wire.


geepherder Thanks, Can you check mine from the 6-pin main harness i see a constant power and some from the Remote start 10-pin and let me know which ones you would get/put together and which ones together. My mixed up is on the ignition -2 wires from the Remote Start 10-pin harness. Please help, the 3 pin connector and mostly the 24 pin are more easier for me. I am trying to hook it up on a 2006 Dodge charger and am using the Dball2.

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
   H1/1       Red            (+) 12v Constant Input
   H1/2       Black        (-)   Chassis Ground
   H1/3       Brown        (+) Siren Output
   H1/4       WHITE/ Brown    Parking Light Isolation Wire - PIN 87a of onboard relay
   H1/5      WhiteParking Light Output
   H1/6      Orange       (-) 500mA Ground when armed

Door Lock 3-Pin Connector
    (1.)      Blue       (-) 500mA Unlock Output
    (2.)      Empty          NOT Used
    (3.)      Green     (-) 500mA Lock Output

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
     H3/1     Pink            (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output
     H3/2     RED / White (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Input 87
     H3/3     Orange       (+)    Accessory Output
     H3/4     Violet          (+)    Starter Output ( Car Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/5     Green          (+)    Starter Input     ( Key Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/6     Red             (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1 INPUT
     H3/7     Pink/White (+)    Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output
     H3/8     Pink/Black   (+)    Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
     H3/9     RED / Black    (+)   Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input
     H3/10    NC       No Connection

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
(1.)      Pink/White       (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex relay Output
(2.)      Blue/White      (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output
(4.)      BLACK / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Dome Light Output
(5.)      Dark Blue        (-) 200mA Status Output
(6.)      WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output
(7.)      WHITE/ Violet     (-)   200mA Aux 1 Output
(8.)      ORANGE / Black   (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output
(9.)       Gray (-) Hood Pin Input (NC or NO)
(10.)     Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input
(11.)     WHITE/ Blue           Activation Input
(12.)     Violet/White*       Tachometer Input
(13.)     BLACK/ White** (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input
(14.)     GREEN/ Black    (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output
(15.)     Green*            (-) Door Output
(16.)     BROWN / Black    (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output
(17.)     Pink   (-) 200mA Ignition1 Output
(18.)     Violet*             (+) Door Input
(19.)     Violet/Black     (-)   200mA Aux 2 Output
(20.)     Brown             (+) Brake Shut down Input
(21.)     Violet / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Starter Output
(22.)     Gray/black       (-) Diesel Wait to start
(23.)     Orange            (-) 200mA Accessory Output
(24.)     GREEN / WHITE    (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output



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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: February 27, 2016 at 3:40 PM
The fused wires in the 10 pin harness (whichever of them you are using) all need to go to constant power. I've never done a Charger, or a dball2 for that matter so I can't give you guidance there.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 27, 2016 at 3:41 PM
Can someone tell me which ones they would bunch up together for constant power on the Remote start 10-pin .....My mixed up is on the ignition -2 wires from the Remote Start 10-pin harness. The 3 pin connector and mostly the 24 pin are a bit easier for me.

Thanks

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
   H1/1       Red (+) 12v Constant Input
   H1/2       Black        (-)   Chassis Ground
   H1/3       Brown        (+) Siren Output
   H1/4       WHITE/ Brown    Parking Light Isolation Wire - PIN 87a of onboard relay
   H1/5      WhiteParking Light Output
   H1/6      Orange       (-) 500mA Ground when armed

Door Lock 3-Pin Connector
    (1.)      Blue        (-) 500mA Unlock Output
    (2.)      Empty  NOT Used
    (3.)      Green     (-) 500mA Lock Output

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
     H3/1     Pink (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output
     H3/2     RED / White (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Input 87
     H3/3     Orange       (+)    Accessory Output
     H3/4     Violet (+)    Starter Output ( Car Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/5     Green (+)    Starter Input     ( Key Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/6     Red (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1 INPUT
     H3/7     Pink/White (+)    Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output
     H3/8     Pink/Black   (+)    Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
     H3/9     RED / Black    (+)   Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input
     H3/10    NC       No Connection

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
(1.)      Pink/White       (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex relay Output
(2.)      Blue/White      (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output
(4.)      BLACK / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Dome Light Output
(5.)      Dark Blue        (-) 200mA Status Output
(6.)      WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output
(7.)      WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output
(8.)      ORANGE / Black   (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output
(9.)       Gray (-) Hood Pin Input (NC or NO)
(10.)     Blue   (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input
(11.)     WHITE/ Blue Activation Input
(12.)     Violet/White*        Tachometer Input
(13.)     BLACK/ White** (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input
(14.)     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output
(15.)     Green* (-) Door Output
(16.)     BROWN / Black    (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output
(17.)     Pink   (-) 200mA Ignition1 Output
(18.)     Violet* (+) Door Input
(19.)     Violet/Black     (-)   200mA Aux 2 Output
(20.)     Brown  (+) Brake Shut down Input
(21.)     Violet / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Starter Output
(22.)     Gray/black       (-) Diesel Wait to start
(23.)     Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output
(24.)     GREEN / WHITE    (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output



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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 27, 2016 at 9:25 PM
I am installing the viper 5906v on 2006 charger..I'm pulling my hairs out some :( If you can guide me on the 10-pin please do..Here's some questions below.

Question #1... The H3/7-pink/white wire Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output, What does it mean? The car wiring data info says same as ignition-1 ? Do i wire up a connection using a relay which i do have, if so please guide me, i just need a boost to get started..

Question #2.. Does the H3/8 Pink/Black wire go with a mentioned above relay but goes in 87a ? Diagrams please share or which should i follow..

Question #3... Does the 5906v have already a kill switch built into it,. I am confused with H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Output ( Car Side of Starter Kill ) AND H3/5 Green (+) Starter Input     ( Key Side of Starter Kill )... If it don't do i wire up a kill switch wiring? Which Kill switch diagram should i follow?

Question #4... H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory Output,, Do i connect this wire to a ACC wire in vehicle?

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
     H3/1     Pink            (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output
     H3/2     RED / White (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Input 87 ------------------done
     H3/3     Orange      (+)      Accessory Output
     H3/4     Violet          (+)    Starter Output ( Car Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/5     Green          (+)    Starter Input     ( Key Side of Starter Kill )
     H3/6     Red             (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1 INPUT -----------------------------------done
     H3/7     Pink/White (+)    Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output
     H3/8     Pink/Black   (+)    Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
     H3/9     RED / Black    (+)   Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input --------------------------done
     H3/10    NC       No Connection

Thanks in advance for any advice you can post up...



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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:16 AM

Here is a link to a Pictorial on your 2006 Charger :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132847
While the aftermarket equipment used is different, the wire colors and locations should be the same.

By "added the harness", I'm guessing you mean the DBI D2D harness as there appears to be no T-Harness available from
XpressKit for your car.  ( I'm not a DB-ALL2 user...)  That would mean that the DB-ALL2 w/402.Chrysler Ver 5.06.01
firmware is connected to the Viper via the 4 Pin D2D harness and all the Blue dash lines in the Type 4 diagram are handled
by that harness.

The install is pretty simple with very few wire connections to the car.  Most of these connections are shown in the DB-ALL2
Type 4 diagram and photos can be found in the pictorial.  The only additional thing is the Viper siren wires.

Here is the wiring :

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
   H1/1       Red   (+) 12v Constant Input   to +12V Constant
   H1/2       Black  (-)   Chassis Ground chassis ground
   H1/3       Brown  (+) Siren Output        siren
   H1/4       WHITE/ Brown    Parking Light  PIN 87a          not used
   H1/5      White Parking  Light Output   *** Set to (+)   to WHITE/ Violet in PKP
   H1/6      Orange  (-) 500mA Ground when armed       not used

Door Lock 3-Pin Connector
    (1.)      Blue        (-) 500mA Unlock Output       D2D
    (2.)      Empty NOT Used
    (3.)      Green     (-) 500mA Lock Output          D2D

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
     H3/1     Pink   (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output       As per Type 4 diagram
     H3/2     RED / White (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-2       not used
     H3/3     Orange       (+)    Accessory Output not used
     H3/4     Violet          (+)    Starter Output ( Car Side )   As per Type 4 diagram
     H3/5     Green          (+)    Starter Input     ( Key Side )          not used
     H3/6     Red (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1       to +12V constant
     H3/7     Pink/White (+)    Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output         not used
     H3/8     Pink/Black   (+)    Flex Relay Input 87A         not used
     H3/9     RED / Black    (+)   Fused (30A) ACC/Starter Input     to +12V constant
     H3/10    NC       No Connection

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
(1.)      Pink/White       (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex relay Output   Not used
(2.)      Blue/White      (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output            D2D
(4.)      BLACK / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Dome Light Output                Not used
(5.)      Dark Blue        (-) 200mA Status Output            Not used
(6.)      WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output             Not used
(7.)      WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output             Not used
(8.)      ORANGE / Black   (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output            Not used
(9.)       Gray (-) Hood Pin Input (NC or NO)       to kit supplied hood pin switch
(10.)     Blue   (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input           D2D
(11.)     WHITE/ Blue Activation Input                    Not used
(12.)     Violet/White*        Tachometer Input     D2D
(13.)     BLACK/ White** (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input      D2D  ** Could go to Chassis Ground
(14.)     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output   D2D
(15.)     Green*   (-) Door Input    D2D
(16.)     BROWN / Black    (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output     Not used
(17.)     Pink   (-) 200mA Ignition1 Output         Not used
(18.)     Violet* (+) Door Input   Not used
(19.)     Violet/Black     (-)   200mA Aux 2 Output           Not used
(20.)     Brown (+) Brake Shut down Input         D2D
(21.)     Violet / YELLOW    (-) 200mA Starter Output           Not used
(22.)     Gray/black       (-) Diesel Wait to start   Not used
(23.)     Orange   (-) 200mA Accessory Output      Not used
(24.)     GREEN / WHITE    (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output     D2D

While I am not a Viper user, I believe you can combine the three necessary +12V constant input wires into one and fuse
this one connection down to 20 - 25 amps.  The +12V constant wire shown in the Pictorial should be suitable for this but
you could always go directly to the battery, too.

Question #1... The H3/7-pink/white wire Ignition-2 / Flex Relay Output, What does it mean? The car wiring data info says
same as ignition-1 ? Do i wire up a connection using a relay which i do have, if so please guide me, i just need a boost to
get started..

Answer #1 :  H3/7 is not used/needed for your application. 

Question #2.. Does the H3/8 Pink/Black wire go with a mentioned above relay but goes in 87a ? Diagrams please share
or which should i follow..

Answer #2 :  H3/8 is not used/needed for your application.

Question #3... Does the 5906v have already a kill switch built into it,. I am confused with H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Output
( Car Side of Starter Kill ) AND H3/5 Green (+) Starter Input     ( Key Side of Starter Kill )... If it don't do i wire up a kill switch
wiring? Which Kill switch diagram should i follow?

Answer #3 :  Slightly longer answer.  The Charger may or may not have a Factory alarm system.  The Viper is an alarm
system and monitors the doors, trunk and hood.  So, do you need/want additional security?  The "Starter Kill" relay is built in
to the Viper.  No need to add an external relay.  Wired up as shown above and in the DB-ALL2 Type 4 diagram will work
fine but not use the Vipers Starter Kill and Anti-Grind functions.  You could try it this way first, make sure everything works
OK before cutting the cars Starter wire and adding in the Vipers thick Green wire.

Question #4... H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory Output,, Do i connect this wire to a ACC wire in vehicle?

Answer #4 :  Your car does not have an actual Accessory wire and does not need either the Vipers thick (+) Orange
Accessory wire or the thin (-) Orange Accessory wire connected.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 11:04 AM
Thanks for the reply.
I will try some of the wiring later on today. I am using type 4 wiring and the D2D which handles most of the locks, unlocks, etc etc. The pin -10 harness is the one giving me pain, but i will try some of what you posted. I did see your link thread the other day but the equipment was different so i was weary of following it (fear of burning something), though i did go over your entire thread and theres nothing better then pictoral views, thanks for that!!! it really helped as i had already disected most of the carpet, ignition etc, etc. But since you mentioned the wiring is mostly the same posted_image i will be trying it then get back to reporting what happened. I know for sure i will be back. Thanks again

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 12:12 PM
Use the Viper wiring listed above, the DB-ALL2 Type 4 wiring diagram and the pictures of the necessary wires shown in the Pictorial.  Like you said, you are using different modules, so you have to draw the needed info from various sources and put it all together for your application.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 2:44 PM
I had everything just about how you posted it but i did removed the H3/9 RED / Black power to coincide with your post as not used...... I also did not use the H3/6 green and went straight only with the violet starter out put as said.

I have 1- issue though on 6-pin connector? Since it says (-) 50mA ground when armed output. What fo i do with that wire.

As of now i try to remote start it and it reads" Remote start Not available" i believe i need to Enable MTS mode but i have not a clue yet 🙁 Module blinks 7 times likewise lights in regards to the start up diagnostics.
Any input ?

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 3:16 PM

As noted above, the Vipers' GWA output is not used.  It is a signal that is typically used for window roll-up or similar functions.

Are you saying that your Charger has a manual transmission?  I must have missed that somewhere.  My answers would have slightly different, if I answered at all.  If you do have a manual transmission, this info is incorrect and needs to be ignored :   

13.)     BLACK/ White** (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input      D2D  ** Could go to Chassis Ground

In MTS Mode the BLACK/ White wire needs to get the EBrake signal, which the DB-ALL2 in D2D mode supplies.  Do not ground the Vipers Neutral Safety Switch input wire.

Additionally, with a manual transmission in MTS Mode, you must run in Tach Mode ( no problem, as the DB-ALL2 supplies a Tach signal ) and you must bypass the clutch pedal interlock switch.  This makes this install more complicated, more advanced and increases liabilities...



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 3:20 PM
Its an automatic.

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 3:32 PM
I have the orange not connected on 6-pin Main harness. Thats the H1/6.

The Aux #13 BLACK/ white is currently grounded** for automatic vehicles as stated.

Neutral safety switch is on "on"

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 5:27 PM

Auto trans is good news.  No need for Reservation Mode at all.  BLACK/ White wire to chassis ground.

Just do some Viper programming in Menu 3.
Transmission Mode = Automatic    Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2
Engine Checking = Tach    Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4

Do a Tach Learn and you should be good to go.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 6:13 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Auto trans is good news.  No need for Reservation Mode at all.  BLACK/ White wire to chassis ground.


Just do some Viper programming in Menu 3.
Transmission Mode = Automatic    Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2
Engine Checking = Tach  Â  Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4


Do a Tach Learn and you should be good to go.




I have no clue how to the viper programming, tach is learned.

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 6:59 PM

I use a BitWriter, so I'm not much help.  You can use the remotes. 

It's on Page 2 of the two page install guide.  Here it is :

Programming System Features
The System Features Learn Routine dictates how the unit operates. It is possible to
access and change most of the feature settings using the Control button.
1. Open a door.
2. Turn the ignition on, then off.
3. Select a Menu. Press and hold the Control button. The number of siren chirps
     indicates the menu number. 1 chirp indicates menu 1, 2 chirps - menu 2 and
     3 chirps for menu 3.
4. When the desired menu chirps are heard, release the Control button.
5. Select a Feature. Press and release the Control button the number of times
    corresponding to the feature you wish to change. Then press and hold one
    more time to select the features.
6. Program the Feature. While holding the Control button, you can program the
    feature using the remote control.

For features with only two options; AUX = option 1 while AUX = option 2.
For features with more than two options; AUX selects the options in ascending order,
while AUX selects them in descending order.

Note: Pressing AUX button resets the feature to the factory default.
Once a feature is programmed:
• Other features can be programmed within the same menu
• Another menu can be selected
• The learn routine can be exited if programming is complete

To access another feature in the same menu:
1. Press and release the Control button the number of times necessary to advance
    from the feature you just programmed to the next one you want to program.
2. Then press the Control button once more and hold it.

To select another menu:
1. Press and hold the Control button.
2. After 3 seconds, the unit advances to the next menu and the siren chirps, indicating
    which menu has been accessed.

The learn routine exits if any of the following occurs:
• The open door is closed
• The ignition is turned On
• There is no activity for 30 seconds
• The Control button is pressed too many times



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:09 PM
kreg357 wrote:

I use a BitWriter, so I'm not much help.  You can use the remotes. 


It's on Page 2 of the two page install guide.  Here it is :


Programming System Features
The System Features Learn Routine dictates how the unit operates. It is possible to
access and change most of the feature settings using the Control button.
1. Open a door.
2. Turn the ignition on, then off.
3. Select a Menu. Press and hold the Control button. The number of siren chirps
     indicates the menu number. 1 chirp indicates menu 1, 2 chirps - menu 2 and
     3 chirps for menu 3.
4. When the desired menu chirps are heard, release the Control button.
5. Select a Feature. Press and release the Control button the number of times
    corresponding to the feature you wish to change. Then press and hold one
    more time to select the features.
6. Program the Feature. While holding the Control button, you can program the
    feature using the remote control.


For features with only two options; AUX = option 1 while AUX = option 2.
For features with more than two options; AUX selects the options in ascending order,
while AUX selects them in descending order.


Note: Pressing AUX button resets the feature to the factory default.
Once a feature is programmed:
� Other features can be programmed within the same menu
� Another menu can be selected
� The learn routine can be exited if programming is complete


To access another feature in the same menu:
1. Press and release the Control button the number of times necessary to advance
    from the feature you just programmed to the next one you want to program.
2. Then press the Control button once more and hold it.


To select another menu:
1. Press and hold the Control button.
2. After 3 seconds, the unit advances to the next menu and the siren chirps, indicating
    which menu has been accessed.


The learn routine exits if any of the following occurs:
� The open door is closed
� The ignition is turned On
� There is no activity for 30 seconds
� The Control button is pressed too many times




Yes i have it and have seen it. i press the side for a while after opening door etc etc.. and it goes into settings but i hear no chirps at all and only see other options but i hear no chirps.

The whole alarm works fine and chirps and triggers doors and trunk. Flashes lights and arms and disarms fine. I'm not sure if i can do it, i lasted the past 2 hours trying i ended up in the same place   posted_image I thank you though alot. Not sure what i can do.

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:17 PM

Maybe the Vipers present door trigger input is NG.  You could try applying a chassis ground to this wire :
15.    Green          (-) Door Input 

See if that gets you into programming mode.

Other that that, see if you can borrow a BitWriter.  They can be also be purchased ( EBay for under $80 ).
DEI 998T V2.9



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:27 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Maybe the Vipers present door trigger input is NG.  You could try applying a chassis ground to this wire :
15.    Green       Â Â  (-) Door Input 


See if that gets you into programming mode.


Other that that, see if you can borrow a BitWriter.  They can be also be purchased ( EBay for under $80 ).
DEI 998T V2.9




I think it's better just to get a BitWriter, probably gonna need it later if all goes well. i can try grounding that green wire to see what it does. i left the car there, i'll return back to it in a bit then i'll post the findings.

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:28 PM
Are the BitWriters hard to use?

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:53 PM
Not at all.  Just plug it into the DEI R/S brain and turn it ON.  The menus / options are displayed in English, making option choice easy.   Hard to get lost and make a incorrect change.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Not at all.  Just plug it into the DEI R/S brain and turn it ON.  The menus / options are displayed in English, making option choice easy.   Hard to get lost and make a incorrect change.


Awesome , i just ordered one so, i guess that puts my time in pause. I will go check though 1 more time. Just saw a youtube video not bad at all. Comparing the BitWriter and doing all them chirps ain't worth even trying for the other settings without making a mistake. lol

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: March 02, 2016 at 9:21 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Maybe the Vipers present door trigger input is NG.  You could try applying a chassis ground to this wire :
15.    Green       Â Â  (-) Door Input 


See if that gets you into programming mode.


Other that that, see if you can borrow a BitWriter.  They can be also be purchased ( EBay for under $80 ).
DEI 998T V2.9




Hey kreg357, we did get the remote start going finally. I called an audio guy to come check the wiring and not too bad just i had the green wire kill switch hooked up and he said it was not needed. He tried to program it with the valet but wouldn't budge. He put that bitwriter and did set to automatic finally and it showed that it had a lock to not allow programming, i guess not to bad if you have a bit writer (getting mine soon though). I also wanted to come here and thank you personally for the guidance and help you given me. Thank you very much for that. I did do a video with a kinda go along steps and wires that were used hopefully i can post up on pictoral section to give back to the site. The vid is not to bad but i tried. Thanks again my friend.

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: March 02, 2016 at 10:24 PM
First of all i want to Thank member kreg357 who is in this site, who guided me to get my post going and ultimately in the end it now works real nice, I also want to thank the car alarm guy who came and did the BitWriter stuff and checked my wiring...I wanted to post this video in hopes it can help someone else who may find this video helpful. The wiring you see in the video has been properly fixed in all aspects, everything soldered and heat shrinked etc etc. real nice, so bare with my video it was my rough draft.....And for the record i am not an alarm installer......

Installation was done on a 2006 Dodge Charger SE automatic vehicle with a factory alarm already.....

NOTES NOT MENTIONED IN VIDEO:
(1.) Video is for automatic vehicles: Make sure to program module from manual to automatic or else it won't work, It will keep displaying "Remote Start Not available" so change to automatic..You will need a BitWriter to do this as some modules have a lock on the programming feature options making the valet programming button to no use...
(2.) Do-Not forget to flash the interface Dball2 to your make and model of vehicle & follow the Dball2 programming when you wire it to the car.. You must also flash the interface module (Dball2) to your car model... You can flash it yourself in their site: xpresskit.com/Firmwares.aspx?p but you must have a computer to do so...
(3.) Make sure to use the D2D mode or the 4 wire connection from the Dball2 to the Remote Starter module.
(4.) Must do the "Learn Tach step" on Remote Starter..
(5.) Toggle switch must be set to "ON"
     

THE WIRES THAT WERE ONLY USED ARE BELOW:

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
H1/1     Red          (+) 12v Constant Input ----------------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.
H1/2     Black       (-)   Chassis Ground --------------------- Connect to ground Chassis
H1/3     Brown     (+)   Siren Output ----------------------- Connect to Positive (+) red siren wire
H1/5     White              Parking Light Output ------------ Connect to Park Lamps WHITE/ Violet (+) located on passenger kick

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
H3/1    Pink            (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output --------------------------------- Connect to 5-pin plug to Ignition Pink/White wire
H3/4    Violet        (+)    Starter Output    ( Car Side of Starter Kill )------- Connect to 5-pin plug to Pink/DK Green
H3/6    Red             (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1 INPUT --------------------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.
H3/9    RED / Black (+)   Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input -------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
(9.)      Gray (-) Hood Pin Input (NC or NO) --------------------- Install the trigger pin under hood, pin is supplied in package
(13.)    BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input ------- Automatic vehicles ground (-) to chassis

The mentioned wires above were the only ones used in the Remote-Starter module...

BELOW IS THE VIDEO I DID..HOPE IT HELPS SOME, THANKS


www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCRlW3Ftf4&feature=youtu.be


posted_image posted_image posted_image

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 5:15 AM

Glad you got it all working.  It's strange that your Viper came in a "Programming Locked" condition.  I used to mention
that when members posted problems making changes with the remotes but was told by others that they had never
seen a new or re-furb unit come from the factory locked.  When it is locked, only the BitWriter can remove that restriction
and make other changes.  Your unit is unlocked now, so the remotes should be able to make programming changes but
having a BitWriter is the way to go.

The video is good.  Shows the actual components, connected and in use.  A couple of solder joints and you're all set.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tactical-gears
Date Posted: March 03, 2016 at 3:31 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Glad you got it all working.  It's strange that your Viper came in a "Programming Locked" condition.  I used to mention
that when members posted problems making changes with the remotes but was told by others that they had never
seen a new or re-furb unit come from the factory locked.  When it is locked, only the BitWriter can remove that restriction
and make other changes.  Your unit is unlocked now, so the remotes should be able to make programming changes but
having a BitWriter is the way to go.


The video is good.  Shows the actual components, connected and in use.  A couple of solder joints and you're all set.





Thanks again, i think i should be getting mine today if not tommorrow, i ordered the one you ssid from Ebay. Hopefully i can try it out because when the guy plugged it in he was showing me all the options the module had, so i'm really curious how i eant the settings to really be. Not sure if you saw the video but i tried.

Thanks again for all the help



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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"





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