2015 Accord Sport VSS5X10 Abnormalities

I have two vehicles. '12 accord lx and a '15 accord sport.

My '12 works flawlessly except for when I remote start the vehicle it'll unlock/disarm even though it's programmed to lock/arm after remote starting. I've had times where the vehicle will send back error codes to the LED remote but I don't know what they mean. I've heard it's low voltage on the battery? Idk, It's rare but it happened once or twice.

It states my '15 requires key2go but it gives you two options to flash and I used the "standard" method option that I used on my '12. To my surprise I can remote start the '15 without key2go but it'll do the same thing my '12 does and immediately will unlock/disarm after a remote start. On my '12 I can just hit lock afterwards and all is good even though it's not how I'd like it to work but on my '15 after a successful remote start and erroneous unlock, I hit lock, get a confirmation that it's locked on the LED fob but you can still open the door and doing so kills the engine as would a factory remote start. Guessing this is why I need the key2go :/

On the '15 Lock, unlock, remote start, aux1 validity (trunk) and aux2 (defrost) all function correctly when used individually. I additionally have defrost latched to remote start on both vehicles and that works fine as well. But for a while, after a successful remote start, pressing lock or unlock will work but the brain will send some type of error code back to the LED remote. Additionally, when I disarm, the LED on the antenna doesn't shut off like it does on my '12 it simply changes the pattern in which the LED blinks. Not sure if this is a newer feature so the light will blink if you accidentally forgot to lock your car but I'm almost certain it's not.

Additionally on the '15, I believe the shock sensor is faulty. On my '12 when I installed it I could flick it to test the sensitivity and adjust it accordingly. On the '15 the LED will turn solid red for a couple seconds when it's first plugged in and that's it. I cannot get the LED to turn on when it detects vibration/ when I flick it regardless of arm/state or other factors.

I'm sure a key2go flash will solve some of my issues on the '15 but nobody in my area wants to give me a set price. Everyone wants to leave it in their shop for an hour so I can pay for everyone's lunch when it's a 5 minute deal. I additionally have the data cable secured nicely next to my obd2 port for easy access so nothing needs to be removed to preform a flash.

Key to go will not help your door locks. Check your analog door lock connections as thats how the door locks are controlled when the car is running under remote start. Should be connected to pink and green coming in from the driver's door.

beegbie wrote:

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Key to go will not help your door locks. Check your analog door lock connections as thats how the door locks are controlled when the car is running under remote start. Should be connected to pink and green coming in from the driver's door.

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I never said key2go would potentially fix the locks. I said key2go may solve the issue with the door opening killing the engine and not being able to lock the vehicle during a remote start.

Additionally I mentioned that the lock and unlock buttons lock and unlock the car just fine otherwise.

The are no issues with the wiring.

"I'm sure a key2go flash will solve some of my issues on the '15 but nobody in my area wants to give me a set price."


No, It will not solve any of your issues. If the module programmed, there's no need for key2go. I'm sure your wiring is fine. Good luck.

beegbie wrote:

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"I'm sure a key2go flash will solve some of my issues on the '15 but nobody in my area wants to give me a set price."


No, It will not solve any of your issues. If the module programmed, there's no need for key2go. I'm sure your wiring is fine. Good luck.

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I was referencing the issues in the second paragraph with the doors not locking during a remote start and opening a door during a remote start killing the engine.

I have no idea what's going on here. These two statements seem to contradict each other.

1. " I said key2go may solve the issue with the door opening killing the engine and not being able to lock the vehicle during a remote start. "

2. " I never said key2go would potentially fix the locks."

What am I missing?

Looking at the diagram, the dark blue (pin 7) and dark green (pin15) on the white 18 pin connector should go to the lock wires coming in from the driver's door (green and pink). Do you have these wires connected?

I believe you may be missing your eyes. Try "reading" what I wrote. Nothing contradicts anything. And I know you haven't caught on yet but again, everything is wired correctly.

I separated my ideas into these wonderful things called paragraphs. If you don't know what a paragraph is: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/paragraph

In my second paragraph I stated that the '15 will not lock during the vehicle being remotely started and since it states my vehicle requires key2go and key2go replicates the key digitally to help bypass the immobilizer I was partially assuming key2go would remedy that specific problem.

You chime in with "key2go will not help lock your doors", which I'm quite aware of and never expressed any concern of. If you read my third paragraph you would see that I specifically state all the functions work correctly when the vehicle hasn't been started remotely.

Yes, for the third time, I closed with "I'm sure key2go may fix some of the issues, I was referring to the second paragraph". Just ignore that. If your only advice is to make sure I have the lock/unlock wires wired correctly, then yes, they are wired correctly. Thank you for your wonderful expertise.

Go troll someone else's thread with your useless knowledge.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to make you mad. I really was trying to help. If the outputs from the 5x10 are connected to the lock/unlock wires in the car, the next step is to test the outputs from the 5x10 to see if they go to ground when pressing lock and unlock on the remote.

Here is my two cents on this post...

Let me start off by saying I'm not a big DEI user.  My info will be from a more general perspective that might help a bit.

First, the cars mentioned are from different generations.  The 2015 Accord Sport is grouped with the Accords for
model years 2013 through 2015+ using a regular ignition key ( not push to start ).  This is the latest / current gen.  The
2012 Accord LX is from the previous gen ( 2009 - 2012 ) and a bit different.   Making direct comparisons between the
two can be iffy.

As mentioned above, I'm not a DEI user.  The current gen, regular key Accord's I have done are with bypass modules
from iDatalink, specifically the ADS AL-CA flashed with the DL HA6 firmware.  All have worked flawlessly.  The remote
started engine will not shutdown when a door is opened ( like PTS vehicles do ).  Here is a link to a Pictorial on these cars : 
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137247 

At the end of the Pictorial is some info on the cars peculiarities.  These cars come with a Factory Alarm system.  Using
the iDatalink bypass module, it unlocks the drivers door prior to a remote start to turn off the alarm and you must program
the R/S or the bypass module to do a "lock after remote start" to secure the car.  Using the iDatalink bypass module, the
R/S remotes have no issues controlling the vehicles' locks at any time.  As noted in the Pictorial, the R/S FOB's can
only pop the trunk while the engine is off, just like the factory remotes.  ( You can get around this by going directly
from the R/S to the car. )  Additionally, while the engine is off, the R/S FOB's give progressive unlock but when the
engine is running, the R/S FOB's unlock all doors at once.

While this might not answer your concerns directly, it might give you some insights on the operation and differences
between bypass modules, etc.  Your info on "key-to-go" not being needed is interesting info.  My understanding was
that all the bypass module companies required this ( Fortin = D-Cryptor, iDatalink = KLON ) for the transponder bypass
portion of the vehicle solution.

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Soldering is fun!

@kreg357

Yeah, I understand the '12 is an 8th generation accord while the '15 is a 9th and that some 9th gens have PTS.

I have mine set to send two unlock signals when the unlock/disarm button is pressed once so I never knew that it auto-set to that while the engine was running but I knew about the trunk popping not working during so.

The VSS5X10 has the bypass built into it. I'm an over compulsive minimalist so I like the least amount of stuff as possible. I de-soldered the extra wires not in use on the MC501 relay, and I de-pinned the extra wires on the molex plugs that weren't being used.

I'll have to look into those other brands as I would prefer it to work perfectly. Here's a link to the install guide that you mentioned: https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA6/ADS-AL(DL)-HA6-EN_20160301.pdf in case anyone else is curious, I gave it a once over, I'm going to check it out more later when I have some time.

Thanks for the alternative suggestions but I gotta try to get what I have working if I can. I gotta bad back and the last thing I want to do is have to tear it all out and throw something else in.

I do not believe I have read on this Forum a more rude response to someone trying to help you!!! mb 448 you are lucky that beegbie and kreg where still so forthcoming with information after the degrading response to beegbie's post. These two are some of the most helpful people on this site. Shame on you!!!!!!!

Well said Ziggy.

@ziggy and @mscguy, You're kidding right? I was very clear in explaining my issue. He replied twice and to each time I carefully took the time to explain to him what could already have been known if he actually took the time to read my thread instead of "speed replying".

I told him my wiring was fine, he replies with "I'm sure your wiring is fine. Good luck." and in his next post he's asking me to check my wiring.. I'm sure you could see why I might be under the impression at this point that's his intentions aren't to help me. It's the internet after all and a forum on top of that. People are known to post replies that are completely irrelevant to the the topic at hand.

He apologized and it's over. Well, it was, until you two decided to also show up, not read anything, and offer your conjecture.