2013 Jeep Wrangler, Manual Transmission, CM7000 with Blade AL

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Manual, and I'm trying to hook up a CM7000 with a Blade AL bypass module and FT-DAS sensor and I'm running into a few issues.
I have gotten to the point where the module is a solid red color (waiting for more vehicle information). Also, to my understanding, CANH and CANL are handling things such as door triggers, hood pin, etc. That is why some of the wires are not connected on CN5

1) Not sure where to hook up accessory and starter output wires on CN3 (Blade AL document states to NOT connect any other accessory, ignition or start wire from the remote starter to the vehicle)
2) I can't get remotes to initially program
3) I can't get the module to flash blue or become solid blue to program to the vehicle.

Did some searches and looked at wiring diagrams for my vehicle an it states
"Second Starter PURPLE / brown (use interface mod or Tech Doc 1084)-180 ohms ignition switch, black 5 pin plug, pin 2"
"May need to interrupt dk. GREEN/ orange, pin 1 of the clutch switch during remote start to avoid check engine light"

Could someone clarify the statements above?

Here's what I'm using for referencing:
BLADE-AL(DL)-CH5-EN_20180717.pdf
CM7000_Full_Install_V3_15_2016.pdf
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134179
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137871

I've hooked up a few remote starts on my automatic honda and subaru vehicles, turn key and PTS, but never a manual Jeep before. So any help or info would be greatly appreciated!

Here is my current wiring:

Low Current Ignition Harness (CN3)
White (12V Accessory Output) -> ?
Red (12V Constant) -> 12V
Yellow (12V Starter Output) -> ?
Green (12V Ignition) -> White/Red (CN4)

Blade Connector (CN4)
White/Black (Ignition Output) -> Pink/White
White/Red (Ignition Status Output) -> Green (CN3)
White (12V) -> Red
Yellow (MUX) -> Purple/Brown
Brown/Red (CANH) -> White/Black
Brown/Yellow (CANL) -> White/LtBlue

Remote Start Connector - Gray (CN5)
Light Blue (E-Brake In) -> Green/White (Parking Brake)
Red/Black (Start Out) -> Yellow/Orange (Clutch)

A few thoughts on the install and problem.

I'm guessing that you did make the Chassis Ground connection on CN3-6 Black wire.

I guess the main thing that jumps out at me is the fact that your vehicle is a manual transmission. While I've done Wranglers, I've never attempted a manual transmission vehicle. That's mostly due to liability reasons, especially in a possibly "open" vehicle. That being said, I did notice that the iDatalink site and the install guide both referred to the Jeep as "Wrangler JK STD Key AT". The AT notation at the end there means Automatic Transmission. It's typical of iDatalink to actually have a separate Type diagram for Manual Transmission vehicles showing the necessary additional wire connections. I see that you do indicate a Clutch Bypass in your wire list. I've never done a MT Wrangler so I can't verify that info. The info I have indicates that a relay should used to do the clutch bypass (5 Wire REV).

I checked the Fortin site, and while they don't indicate AT Vehicles Only, none of their install diagrams show any Clutch Bypass wiring, which they normally do for MT vehicles.

As for the R/S's unused ignition outputs, the CH5 install guide does have a note that says :
WARNING: DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER ACCESSORY, IGNITION OR START WIRE FROM THE REMOTE STARTER TO THE VEHICLE.
Those wires ( ACC and Starter ) are not needed and not used. The 2nd Starter wire you mentioned is known as the MUX wire and that function is handled by the Blade AL and it's connection to the Purple/Brown wire at Pin 1 of the Ignition plug.

As for your Compustar Remote Pairing issue, it's probably due to the fact that the CM7000 needs to see the vehicles IGN signal go from to OFF to ON and the Blade AL supplies that signal. Either the inline diode is reversed and/or the Blade AL must be successfully programmed before it can output that signal. You could disconnect that IGN1 connection temporarily and use a jumper with +12V to the IGN1 wire to perform the remote pairing process.

Not sure why you can't get the Blade to program to the Jeep. I would verify that the CAN wire connections are correct and properly soldered. I would perform a Factory Reset on the Blade and then go into vehicle programming. It's also possible that a MT vehicle handles things differently enough to prevent bypass module programming or the Blade firmware is smart enough to notice that the vehicle does not have an AT .

Best bet would be a call to iDatalink to see if your vehicle application is supported.

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Soldering is fun!

Idata won't give you support for a manual transmisson Jeep. Since the top can come off, like a convertible, remote start is expressly "not supported"..

did you put a diode for the white/red? module is flashed i assume?

Appreciate the responses guys. Gave up on the project for a little bit. I do have it grounded, the diode is in position and the module is flashed. I did contact Compustar and idatalink, and they just gave me the "not supported" response. I did recall another member on here did get it up and running and just had issues with reservation mode at one point. Kreg you actually responded to his post as well, back in 2017 though.

I don't think firmware is an issue because it seems as though AT/MT share the same firmware, referring to Subarus, Toyotas, and Hondas, which share the same firmware for both auto and manual.

I believe I'm just missing a few wires that I need to connect, because to CM7000 is lit up solid red, meaning its waiting for more info. If I connected the wrong wires to the wrong places, it would be flashing red telling me it has incorrect information.

I think I'm on the right path, I just need to figure out if I need wires hooked up on the remote starter side or bypass side.

Here's are the connections I think I'm missing (Which I thought some would be handled by the bypass through DATA wires, but I don't think it would hurt to connect it to the RS)

Foot Brake
Hood Pin
Door Trigger
Parking Lights

Would anyone else concur?