I have a 06 F250 with only power locks and windows. No immobilizer, VSM, Keyless entry, etc. I have however added factory upfitters and brake controller. along with a e-locker and auto 4x4 out of a 2015.
I'm trying to assess what i really need to hook up for the truck there's so many guides and forms that stated opt 1 over 2 etc.
Using the guides on here i just want to make sure I didn't miss anything before plugging it all into the brain
The12volt 06 F250 Guide This guide made it look super easy.
Download of wire install the12volt But these wire guide doesnt match for the same year
Viper 5706v Wireing The12volt
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
1 Red (+) 12V Constant Input ---- +12v Yellow (ignition)
2 Black (-) CHASSIS GROUND ----Ground to Chassis
3 Brown (+) SIREN Output
4 White/Brown Parking Light Isolation - PIN 87a of onboard relay
5 White Parking Light Output ---- Park lights (brown)
6 Orange (-) 500mA Ground When Armed
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
1 NC
2 Red/Black (+) Fused 12V Acc/Starter INPUT ---- Connect to? Acc1 Grey/Yellow
3 Pink/Black (+) Flex Relay Input #87a key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
4 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT #30 of FLEX RELAY
5 Red (+) FUSED 12v Ignition 1 INPUT ---- Ignition 1 Red/Green
6 Green (+) Starter Input (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER DISABLE)
7 Violet (+) Starter Output (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER DISABLE) ---- Starter 1 Green
8 Orange (+) Acc Output ---- Acc2 Red/Black?
9 Red/White (+) Fused 12v Ignition 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
10 Pink (+) Ignition 1 INPUT/OUTPUT connect to? Same as 5? Ignition 1 Red/Green
Door Lock, 3-pin connector - -> 451M module
1 Blue (-) 500mA Unlock Output
2 --------
3 Green (-) 500mA Lock Output
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
3 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
4 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
6 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
7 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
8 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/O OR N/C)
10 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/O OR N/C)
11 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT
12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT ---- Green/White (tach wire at kickplate)
13 BLACK/WHITE** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE/E-BRAKE INPUT ---- E.brake LtGreen/Red
14 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
15 GREEN* (-) DOOR INPUT (N/O OR N/C)
16 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT ---- DkBlue (fusebox/steering column)
17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
18 VIOLET* (+) DOOR INPUT
19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT ---- Green (Brake Pedal)
21 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT ---- does this go to the solenoid?
22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT ---- using built in timer
23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT ---- connect to??
24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
Just want to sort it all out before I plug it in and fry anything. any and all help would be amazing
It's always best to verify wires with a meter before making connections.
The fused red Viper wires are all meant to be connected to a constant positive 12 volt source (both reds, red/black and red/white). Think of the red wires in the remote start harness as terminal 30 on the built in relays (common terminal).
The descriptions on the remote start harness can be a little confusing. They almost make H3/5 and H3/10 sound the same.
The red H3/5 wire is the constant power supply for the ignition1 circuit (connects to a wire at the ignition switch with constant battery power- probably yellow or light green/purple). The pink H3/10 wire connects to the wire at the ignition wire in the ignition harness (probably red/green). This wire will have no power in the accessory position, but gets power when the key is turned to the run position (when the instrument panel lights up) and maintains power during cranking. It's used as an input, to sense when the key is turned on (for programming and as an alarm trigger), and an output for the remote start. This is connected to terminal 87 of the built in ignition1 relay. If you have a second ignition circuit, it can connect to the pink/white H3/4 wire (factory default is ignition2). If you don't have a second ignition wire, you can program it to use as another accessory wire.
It's important to make sure your ignition wires are powered as ignition and not accessory (accessory wires lose power during cranking).
Accessory wires power things like your heating and a/c (and blower motor) and lose power during cranking. One will connect to the orange H3/8 wire. If you need another accessory, you can use the H3/23 small orange wire to trigger an external relay.
H2/13 can be connected to ground if this is an automatic transmission vehicle. H2/21 and H2/22 are not needed for your application.
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
thank you so much. I understand these are normally shop installed units but I wish they provided actual listed connections for the diy. I'm not worried about a warranty excited to finish it today!!
Also, remember if you plan to use remote start, the default setting is manual transmission. If you have an auto transmission you'll want to program it as such so you don't have to go through the MTS mode procedure each time you exit the vehicle if you want to be able to remote start. This is Menu 3, Item 1 (option 1 is manual, option 2 is auto).
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.