01 Honda Prelude, Valet 526t
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74200
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 5:34 AM
Topic: 01 Honda Prelude, Valet 526t
Posted By: this_guy_online
Subject: 01 Honda Prelude, Valet 526t
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 7:03 PM
Greetings, first-time installer here, I'll appreciate any help getting me started. In my younger days I put in a few simple car stereos. I'm reasonably mechanical and understand (I think) the basics of how all this works. I'm confident I'll be able to identify all the necessary wires on the car, and the corresponding wires on the unit. I've read a bunch of threads here and elsewhere, all the FAQs I can find, and guides on various web sites.
I'm stuck, though, and would love to tap the experience here.
* 2001 Honda Prelude (automatic)
* Valet 562t, with 555d bypass module.
I've opened the box, examined all the bits and pieces, and read the install guide through several times.
Yesterday:
- I assembled the tools (pliers, screwdrivers, worklight, flashlight, digital multimeter, soldering gun (based on advice I read here and elsewhere, I want to solder all connections), electrical tape, etc.)
- I rolled down the car windows so I don't get locked out.
- I pulled the lower dash cover, steering column cowl, passenger kick, and glovebox.
I stared at the wiring under the dash, stared at the wiring on the unit, I started identifying the wires in the diagrams. Eventually, I put everything away and went inside.
I couldn't bring myself to start using the wire cutters (it kinda felt like when they're disarming a bomb in the movies).
I still hope to do this myself (I called some shops, they're all charging at least twice the cost of the equipment itself just to do the installation for me; all said they use t-taps.) If I can just feel confident enough to make that first snip I'll be good. Can any of you experienced installers give me a push?
Here are some questions, in no particular order. I know to you, some (or all) of these are forehead-slapping stupid questions, but hey, there's a first time for everything... Help with even one or two might get me going to where I can figure the rest out. Thank you!
A. The wires on the separate heavy-gauge relay aren't very long, so it'll be close to where I connect to the ignition wires. Should I still be trying to make this part as inconspicuous as possible?
B. Where, exactly, might an experienced installer cut into starter/ignition/etc. wires - up close to the ignition switch connections? As far away from the switch as possible? Whereever it's convenient?
C. Same for the non-heavy-gauge wires - do you have any preference for where you cut into a wire? Close to a fusebox or control unit or connector? In the middle of a run? Or doesn't much matter?
D. The Installation Guide makes no mention (that I can find) of the little On/Off toggle switch that came in the box. Any clue to where I would connect this, and where might be a good place to mount it (some sooper-secret location, or just conveniently out of the way?)
E. In the box was also a little black plastic dealy, about the size of my little finger, with a four-prong socket, an "HX" logo, and a self-adhesive sticker. Not mentioned in any docs or diagrams I can find. Antennae/reciever? Necessary? Is there a preferred or customary location for it if so?
F. Finally, any other tips for a first-timer preparing to go through this? (for example: locating and mounting the control unit - I was going to ziptie it to something above the glovebox; locating and adjusting the hood pin; which set of wires to start with; things to do, things not to do, best music to play while installing, etc.)
Again, I don't expect anyone to answer all this at once, but man I could use a little help putting the dikes onto that first wire...
Replies:
Posted By: dj hellfire
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 7:26 PM
this_guy_online wrote:
A. The wires on the separate heavy-gauge relay aren't very long, so it'll be close to where I connect to the ignition wires. Should I still be trying to make this part as inconspicuous as possible?
B. Where, exactly, might an experienced installer cut into starter/ignition/etc. wires - up close to the ignition switch connections? As far away from the switch as possible? Whereever it's convenient?
C. Same for the non-heavy-gauge wires - do you have any preference for where you cut into a wire? Close to a fusebox or control unit or connector? In the middle of a run? Or doesn't much matter?
D. The Installation Guide makes no mention (that I can find) of the little On/Off toggle switch that came in the box. Any clue to where I would connect this, and where might be a good place to mount it (some sooper-secret location, or just conveniently out of the way?)
E. In the box was also a little black plastic dealy, about the size of my little finger, with a four-prong socket, an "HX" logo, and a self-adhesive sticker. Not mentioned in any docs or diagrams I can find. Antennae/reciever? Necessary? Is there a preferred or customary location for it if so?
F. Finally, any other tips for a first-timer preparing to go through this? (for example: locating and mounting the control unit - I was going to ziptie it to something above the glovebox; locating and adjusting the hood pin; which set of wires to start with; things to do, things not to do, best music to play while installing, etc.)
Again, I don't expect anyone to answer all this at once, but man I could use a little help putting the dikes onto that first wire...
I just installed the same unit on my car last week, so I may be of some help. A. All wires were long enough for me to concele both modules (relay pack and brain) behind the center console under the in-dash radio. B. Just leave enough wire closer to the key side just incase you ever want to remove the unit and all of it's wiring. This'll make it easier to reconnect the starter wire. I left about 2 inches on the key side. C. Doesn't matter. I used t-taps for all the really thin 18-22 guage wires since they are very low current. I did solder all the heavy guage wires at the ignition harness. The only wire I actually cut was the starter wire since it was required. Everything else just needs a little of the insulation removed so you can tap onto the wire. You don't actually have to break the wire. If you choose to do so anyway, just give yourself enough room to work on the wire. D. Does your car allow the engine to start with the car in drive or reverse? If not, take a look at the toggle switch. There is a little plate on the side that says on and off. The wire on the ON side needs to be grounded and the wire of the OFF side goes to the module. This will allow the system to work with the switch ON and not work on OFF. If your car can start in gear, you have to tap the ON side into the nuetral safety switch. But most likely, since your car is an 01, you should just be able to get away with grounding this wire. E. That is the antenna. If you look at the last page of the installation manual, you will see it. Mount it vertically behind the rear view mirror for best range. Just run the wire up the a-pillar and under the headliner. F. As for the hood pin thing, you don't have to use the one they supplied if your car has a stock hood pin. Just find your stock hood pin wire and tap the hood pin wire into it. If you want, you can use the hood pin they gave you as a trunk pin and have it so the starter will not work with the trunk open. Other than that, take your time. E-mail me with any other questions at djhellfire2k1@yahoo.com.
Posted By: trnkmnky123
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 8:40 PM
on that year car u can cut the starter wire at the harness it makes it more accesible to theives usually u can find the str wire up in the dash up high by the fuse block. as far as connections dei usually likes soldered connections t-taps work good though
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:59 PM
dj, thanks!
>A. All wires were long enough ... under the radio
Cool, maybe I'll try that instead of above the glove.
>B. Just leave enough wire closer to the key side...
OK, sounds good.
>C. ... I used t-taps for all the really thin 18-22 guage wires ...
Excellent. I may do this once I start getting fed up with soldering all those little wires.
>D. Does your car allow the engine to start with the car in drive or reverse? If not, take a look at the toggle switch. There is a little plate on the side that says on and off. The wire on the ON side needs to be grounded and the wire of the OFF side goes to the module. This will allow the system to work with the switch ON and not work on OFF.
Ah ok, makes sense - then the switch connects to the BLACK/ white neutral safety switch input on the unit.
>E. That is the antenna. If you look at the last page of the installation manual, you will see it...
DOH! You're right, it's on the diagram. OK, excellent explanation.
>F. ...you don't have to use the one they supplied if your car has a stock hood pin...
I couldn't find mine, I'll look again tomorrow.
>E-mail me with any other questions
Will do.
Excellent, thank you very much, this helps a lot!
Posted By: dj hellfire
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 9:27 AM
Here is a wiring diagram for your car. According to it, you don't have a stock hood pin, so you will need the one supplied with the kit: https://www.designtech-intl.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=3289&product=Remote%20Start However, it is not etched in stone. They did have a couple wire locations mixed up for my car, but for the most part, it was very accurate. Make sure you install the hood pin low enough so that the hood still lines up properly when closed, but also that it presses the switch.
Posted By: r2d97
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 1:09 PM
just ground out the neutral safety switch. It is to much heartache trying to find it. (Thats up to you though). Your not going to try and start your auto prelude in drive anyways. AS far as the hood pin goes. You don't have hook that wire up if you dont want to. When it sees ground it will disable the remote start feature so, if you don't want to hook that up you don't have to either. If you take your car to the mechanic just flick the on/off switch to the off position and that will temporarily disable the reamote start.
Posted By: dj hellfire
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 2:11 PM
r2d97] wrote:
S far as the hood pin goes. You don't have hook that wire up if you dont want to. When it sees ground it will disable the remote start feature so, if you don't want to hook that up you don't have to either. If you take your car to the mechanic just flick the on/off switch to the off position and that will temporarily disable the reamote start.
Yeah, I had mine like that at first, but then I was kind of afraid that if I ever had part of the engine apart or had the car up on a lift with the oil draining, that the unit may somehow activate and mess up my engine. I know it's kind of extreme, but it is possible. So I just connected the hood pin wire. Luckily though, my car has a stock hood pin, so I just t-tapped into that.
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 2:08 PM
Thanks to those who helped, answered all my questions and got me going. I have two new mysteries. Details: * 2001 Honda Prelude (automatic). No factory alarm. * Valet 562t remote starter, with 555d bypass module. First-time, do-it-yourselfer here - these questions probably seem pretty stupid to those of you who've done a lot of these. I have: - Soldered in the connections from the ignition harness to the heavy-guage relay module. - Fished the hood switch and tach sense wires through the firewall (hardest part so far, ended up pushing a coathanger (with the end filed smooth and round), lubed with vaseline, through the existing grommet/sleeve from the engine compartment into the cabin, then taping and dragging the wires through.), routed in conduit, soldered and taped. - T-tapped or soldered all other applicable wires that I can find. Mystery 1: What are these connections? The wiring diagrams list the following. I don't know know what, if anything, I'm supposed to connect to them; do some of them maybe have to do with a factory alarm (which I don't have?): DesignTech (Same diagram they sent me on paper (looks like it was printed from DirectTechs): - Lock Motor (note: NOT door lock, got that already) - Unlock Motor (note: NOT door unlock, got that already) - Door Trigger - Trunk/Hatch Pin (note: NOT hood switch pin, got that already) - Disarm No UnlockA diagram posted here - excellent, the location details were great! - Door 1 (note: NOT door lock/unlock) - Door 2 (note: NOT door lock/unlock) - Arm (key): (note: I assume this is for a factory alarm, so not applicable) - Disarm (key): (note: I assume this is for a factory alarm, so not applicable) - Arm Input: (note: I assume this is for a factory alarm, so not applicable) - Disarm Input 1: (note: I assume this is for a factory alarm, so not applicable) - Disarm Input 2: (note: I assume this is for a factory alarm, so not applicable) I'm especially curious about the Disarm No Unlock, which was marked with yellow highlighter on the factory wiring diagram. I have no idea what wire of the remote starter that would connect to. Mystery 2: Um ... it won't start... All wires connected (that I can figure out, anyway). Fuses installed. Tach signal learned. Have changed none of the programming in the unit. 555d Bypass unit NOT installed yet, testing the remote starter first. - Insert key in ignition, don't turn. - Arm system with Lock button on remote. Car beeps and flashes as it's supposed to, status light blinking. - Hit * button on remote twice. Lights flash, accessories come on, engine cranks briefly but doesn't start. System tries to start the car two more times, gives up. - Disarm system, start the car with the key, starts just fine on the first or second crank. Bad ignition wire connection? (I soldered it, not a beautiful solder join but it looked clean to me.) Something I've forgotten? Thanks!!
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 2:22 PM
Design-tech is now owned by DEI, so you are correct with the statement "looks like DirecTechs", because I have yet to see a difference between the two!
1. If your vehicle does not have a factory alarm, you do not need to connect to this wire. It would be used to disarm the factory alarm prior to remote starting, without unlocking the doors.
2. When you programmed the tachometer, did the unit verify that it learned it?
Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 2:38 PM
when you program the tach raqise the idle during the learn process to 1200 rpms. this will allow the remote starter to crank to a higher rpm before releasing the start relay. xs
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 3:15 PM
2. When you programmed the tachometer, did the unit verify that it learned it?
Yup: started engine, held program button down within 5 seconds, status light came on solid.
when you program the tach raqise the idle during the learn process to 1200 rpms. this will allow the remote starter to crank to a higher rpm before releasing the start relay.
I'll go out and give that a try when I have minute...
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 3:34 PM
raise the idle during the learn process to 1200 rpms
Dang, didn't seem to work. Tried learning the tach at 1200, 1500, even 2000 RPM. Exact same behavior - cranks several turns but doesn't start, gives up after three tries. With the key, engine starts within first few cranks.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 5:02 PM
What ignition wires did you power up ? Also, sounds like a Immobilizer problem to me. Do you have the BLACK headed key in the ignition when you try to remote start the car ?
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 7:14 PM
Jeff,
Thanks -
What ignition wires did you power up ?
I tied into the yellow and black 12-ga. ignition wire, in the harness at the steering column. I cut away an inch of the insulation a few inches behind the wheel, soldered the pink heavy-gauge ignition input in the harness that goes to the relay, taped everything up tight.
Also, sounds like a Immobilizer problem to me. Do you have the BLACK headed key in the ignition when you try to remote start the car ?
Definitely - tested the remote start with the black, Honda transponder key in the ignition; r.s. doesn't work - turn the same key and the car starts right up.
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 7:43 PM
Here's something else for you to try. Start the car with the key. Then after it's running, make sure your foot is off the brake and the hood is closed, then hit the button to remote start the car. The parking lights should flash and the doors unlock ( if they're hooked up anyway ). After that turn the key to the off position. If the engine shuts down then somethings wrong with the wiring you hooked up to the igintion harness double check those.
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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 12:46 PM
Thanks, everyone, for your ideas. [I]Here's something else for you to try...[/I] Tried your suggestion - engine stopped after I turned off the key, so something wrong with my wiring. I'll double check and post an eact diagram in a while.
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 4:20 PM
Hi, still hoping someone can help me figure this out.
I retested with my multimeter. The BLACK / YELLOW 12-ga. wire in the ignition harness tests ~12V both in Run and Start. This is the wire to which I soldered the pink "Ignition Input" wire from the Valet heavy-gauge relay unit harness. The solder connection is good, the Valet side of the wire is hot in start and run.
When I arm the system and try the remote start, the starter circuit works (engine cranks), but I show no voltage in the ignition line.
So, the Valet, for some reason, is not powering up the ignition circuit when it runs the starter.
I'm studying the install and owner guides and the circuit charts, looking for some reason why this might be. Any ideas? I'd rather assume it's installer error, than a defective Valet unit.
(by the way, Mods, thanks for merging the topics, I wasn't sure whether or not I should have started a new one)
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: March 11, 2006 at 12:48 AM
Check the fuses on the 2 red wires. And do you have both of them hooked up? If not they both need to be hooked up to a source of constant 12v. Are you sure that the ribbon harness that connects the relay pack to the brain is plugged all the way in at each end. Just some simple things to check first.
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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: this_guy_online
Date Posted: March 11, 2006 at 7:26 PM
Check the fuses on the 2 red wires. And do you have both of them hooked up?
Errrmmm.... BOTH red wires, you say?
Yup, that was it! Thank you!
I thought the second red power wire was for when you have to hook up a second ignition circuit or something, and wasn't needed for a simpler configuration. I'm glad I didn't cut it off, and instead folded and ziptied it out of the way until everything was tested.
Thanks, cntrylvr! Thanks, dj and Jeff and everyone else!
Out to finish soldering.
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