Viper 5706v, 2010 Hyundai Elantra

Make sure your plugging the 3-pin door lock connector into the proper port on the 5706v. The blue wire should test as ground during unlock and the green should test as ground during lock with the remote. The 3-pin plug fits in other spots so ensure your putting it in the right spot (this mistake has been done on here before). I can't stress enough to connect to the correct green and yellow wires on the vehicle. The "driver kick, gray 39 pin plug" has a multitude of green and yellow, namely yellow that are in some way linked to door lock function. When aiming for a particular function using the vehicle wiring info you have to ensure that not only is the color correct but also that your at the correct pin number that has that color. Howie, makes a valid point. The system must be fully installed with antenna and power for the remote to work the locks. The siren and lights should both do their thing when you press unlock or lock on the fob. While not generally the case, the remote may need to be learned to the system if all the above is good but the 5706v doesn't respond to the remote. *This is an extra tidbit that shouldn't apply as you've tested the 5706v unlock/lock output* In summary, with power, ground, antenna, a programmed remote, and proper connection of the door lock harness to both the vehicle and the 5706v the door locks should work.

I should also add when are the door locks not working via 5706v remote? All the time (never works)? During remote start? With the key in the ignition? or some other scenario?

catback wrote: I should also add when are the door locks not working via 5706v remote? All the time (never works)? During remote start? With the key in the ignition? or some other scenario?

1- All the time (never works) 2- i will post a video demonstrating the issue that i have.

When you tested the red DMM probe to 12v(+) and the black probe to the green and blue wire of the viper, did you use the viper key fob to lock and unlock, or the factory switch?

jgerard81 wrote: When you tested the red DMM probe to 12v(+) and the black probe to the green and blue wire of the viper, did you use the viper key fob to lock and unlock, or the factory switch?

of course viper remote NOT factory remote

Since manually grounding the green or blue wire causes the vehicle to lock or unlock, it sounds like the vehicle may be detecting an unexpected level of resistance at those wires when the Viper grounds them. If it were me, I would try using the green and blue wires to trigger a relay

Or measure the current drawn when grounding should't be more than 150 milliamps.

I could definitely be wrong here, as I was leaning more towards a weak ground coming from the green and blue wires of the Viper. Those two wires may not be able to supply adequate ground to the vehicle's locking system, however, they should be fine for triggering a relay. Either way, you are correct about testing the current, which should be done before moving forward.

howie ll wrote: Or measure the current drawn when grounding should't be more than 150 milliamps.

He's testing with a test light and as long as it's not a home made job the current should be about that (150) or less. The test light limits the current and if the circuit functions with the test light in series then the required current to operate is being met.

I think I also suggested measuring the voltage between red and black on the H1 pliug, let's face it we don't know what else works and doesn't.