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2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue


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jmacf14 
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Posted: December 25, 2008 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged  
Ive installed an ungo sr6000 in this 2007 accord ex w/ v6. I used an idatalink ads al ca module that was flashed at a local shop. Everything works great axcept no lock/ unlock. I wired everything per the wiring info from idatalink, good soldered joints. Any ideas or suggestions? How hard would it be to wire the alarm unit to the locks themselves. The info I had said "type B" locks, I'm not sure what that means. Older hondas are just negative locks, are these the same? Thanks in advance, and Happy Holidays! 
jmacf14
i am an idiot 
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Posted: December 25, 2008 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged  
2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue - Last Post -- posted image.Power UnlockPINK/BLUE(-)IN A GREEN PLUG AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue - Last Post -- posted image.
2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue - Last Post -- posted image.PowerLockPINK/BLACK(-)IN A GREEN PLUG AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL

Notes on both say to test using passenger door lock/unlock switches

JWorm 
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Posted: December 25, 2008 at 7:12 PM / IP Logged  
The lock and unlock wires are easy. The arm and disarm wires are in the drivers door. Thats not so easy. I would try to get the module working.
jmacf14 
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Posted: December 25, 2008 at 11:33 PM / IP Logged  

Any ideas how to make the module work better? according to the idatalink install guide's vehicle compatibility chart, this car is a type 1 install, and the type one installation wiring diagram shows a brown red wire for doorlock  data wire. I have the orange wire from the module soldered there. I am running a factory disarm wire from the ungo to the bypass' brown wire for disarm (-) input. that should take care of the factory alarm disarm, correct? If thats the case, can I just hardwire directly to the pink/black and pink/blue for locks and be done? I'm not real sure if I'm not reading the info correctly on the install guide for the bypass. Thanks again.

jmacf14
jmacf14 
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Posted: December 26, 2008 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged  
Heres what Ive discovered: I disconnected the lock/unlock wires from the ungo to the bypass. I pulsed ground to the bypass modules lock/unlock input, and behold the locks worked. So I meterd the ungos lock wires and they were working also. The differance being that the ungo sends (-) signal down 1 wire and (+) down the other. I believe that was causing the problem. I tested the (-) factory alarm arm and disarm wires to the bypass lock input wires and they worked fine then, except it would unlock drivers door on remote start., I ended up just hard wiring the lock wires from the ungo directly to the car's lock/unlock wires. This works fine since the ungo is still disarming the factory alarm through the bypass. everything is working great now. This ungo unit is definately not as installer friendly as the ultrastarts that I usually install.
jmacf14
ckeeler 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged  
you could have also just placed diodes inline on the lock wires to block the positive voltage from reaching your bypass. i always do this
jmacf14 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged  
so I should have wired diodes withe the cathode facing the ungo, away from the bypass. This will block the 12v. but allow the (-) signal? Sounds right. Correct me if I'm wrong for future referance. Thanks.
jmacf14
ckeeler 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  

jmacf14 wrote:
so I should have wired diodes withe the cathode facing the ungo, away from the bypass. This will block the 12v. but allow the (-) signal? Sounds right. Correct me if I'm wrong for future referance. Thanks.

exactly. really you should always do this as a practice if connecting door lock wires to a data bypass module or MUX system such as a 1-wire chrysler. if your just triggering a standard negative or positive triggered relay system, its not nessasary.

jmacf14 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  

Now I know. every day is a learning experiance. Thanks.

jmacf14

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