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Trying to learn about relays


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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 27, 2011 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  

I have a digital multipmeter. I expose copper wire on the black & white wire going to the compressor. I check my ground to the battery pos side and it was good, there was no power going to the compressor. I check the fuses under the dash again and they were still good.

I then pull RDI Fan fuse 40A from the junction box and continuity was good.

I pull the relays to check the ohms. Fan 2 relay with 5 prongs, had three copper color prongs and two silver prongs. Only the silver prongs had ohms of 114.5. Fan 1 relay had two copper color prongs and two silver prongs, and silver prong ohms was 110.6. MIG/CLT relay was two copper and two silver and the ohms was on the silver prongs were 170.5.

I need a easier understanding on how to run 12 volts to the relays to test them.

Thanks for the help.

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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 27, 2011 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged  
One each relay with two copper prongs, place one silver terminal to 12volts, the other to ground. The relays should make an audible click and you should go from infinity (= open circuit) to continuity, 0-1ohms.
One the relay with 3 copper terminals, at rest there should be open circuit between say 1 and 3 (my nominal markings) and continuity between, say 1 and 2. when you again short one of the silvers to ground the other silver to 12volts, again an audible click and then say 1 and 3 will have continuity, 1 and 2 open circuit. Hence 1 is common (= 30)
2 is normally closed (= 87a) and 3 is normally open (=87). Also known as a SPCO or single pole changeover.
See diagram. A21_untitled.bmp
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 27, 2011 at 6:28 PM / IP Logged  
Now probe the slots on the relay bases where the copper terminals went. on the four terminal bases one of each should read 12 volt live, one the 5 terminal one of the three.
If not turn on the engine, now loop from the live to the other base for the copper terminal with a piece of wire, do the same for the 5 terminal to the one that joins to the live when the relay is powered up. Turn on engine, select AC with the fan at speed one.
Everything should work, and check that feed to the compressor for 12 volts, in fact you might have heard the compressor clutch plate kick in.
Everything should now work. If not it's an AC pressure switch or ECU problem.
If it works replace one relay at a time till it fails, that's your answer.
notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 27, 2011 at 7:28 PM / IP Logged  

That is great, I will try it tomorrow and let you know what happen.

Thanks, getting closer.

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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 28, 2011 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged  

I did the testing. Thanks for making it easier to understand. I did the 12v test to the three relays, all of them made a click sound. Fan 1 relay is for when the water temperature get hot and that work. I pull Fan1 relay out when the fan came on and fan shut down. I put the relay back in and fan came on.

With the relays out for Fan 2 and M/G CLT, I check terminals for power. The 5 terminal there is three across, the two outside terminal are silver and the one in the middle is copper. The one outside silver one had power only when the engine is on, I jump from one silver terminal to the other silver terminal and nothing happen. I tested the M/G CLT terminal and one silver and one copper terminal had power when engine was running , I jump the two and nothing happen. With the relays all put back in still no power to the compressor. Can I run 12v wire to the black & white wire that goes to the compressor.

I was tightening the hood latch when I drop the socket wench down by the front of the compressor. I start the engine and try turning the control nob for hot and cold, hot work but not the cold. But I notice on the dash red symbol, I look it up in the car book and it for the air bags and it just staying on. I know I didn’t do anything with the air bags. I remember seeing a black metal box with wires going into it where I drop the socket wench. I disconnect the battery and took two bolts off and got the metal box up to look at it. It was rusty, I disconnect the connect wires, there a plastic box inside the metal box, with two tiny terminal. I don’t know how to test this. On the menal box there a label saying Senor, Air Bag. FH. Toyota 89173-12100 187600-4990 Denso RH.

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91stt 
Silver - Posts: 564
Silver spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 24, 2006
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: June 29, 2011 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
I just saw this post. I have uploaded the wiring diagram for you A/C system to this site. There are other sensors that may be causing your problems and you may need to check all of them to determine the which is your culprit. The diagrams should get you started with the components involve, hope this helps.
A/C wiring diagram
This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.
notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 29, 2011 at 8:29 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks, I will check it out,

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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: July 03, 2011 at 10:03 PM / IP Logged  

I finally got chance to 12v on the black & white wire going to the compressor and the clutch engage.

I went back to the relays and pull out M/G CLT relay that I tested before and heard a click. I hot wire again where the relay was this time touching more then one setup and the clutch engage. I bought a new relay , will put in tomorrow, it to hot and humid. Was $15.00 dollars for the M/G CLT relay. The air bag relay, my wrench mash the connector when it fell, will work on that after the A/C is working. Thanks for your help, learn a lot and now I have good cheat sheets to use and learn.

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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: July 04, 2011 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged  

I bought a new M/C CLT for a/c magnetic clutch relay, clutch didn’t engage. Pull that relay out and hot wire and the clutch engage. Test the new relay it tested fine.

Then I went to Fan 2 relay pull it out and tested the terminals in the junction box this relay has 5 terminals. With the car running and a/c switch on, there was no power to the two silver terminals, but on the relay it self there continuity and ohms between the two silver terminals. There was power between one silver and one copper terminal. Between the two silver terminal is one copper terminal, with one silver terminal and the center copper terminal there power, switching to the other silver terminal there was power. If the two silver terminal on the relay tested with a click with 12v test, how will it work in the junction box with no power to the silver terminal.

I found this , but can’t find where it is.

The cooling fan < color=#810081 face=Arial>relay is located below bumper fascia at right headlamp. The ground for the < color=#810081 face=Arial>relay is at the headlight as well. the < color=#810081 face=Arial>relay is controlled by the pcm, so if you had a bad coolant temp sensor, this would cause the pcm to control the fan incorrectly, and possibly trip a check engine light. more than likely you have a bad connection or relay.

I found this too, I been looking but can’t find it.

If I remember the wiring I saw before, the relay is actually on the compressor some where (this is the reason it was overheating)

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