Hospitals are great - they now have bedside internet access!
Jest kidding - I've done my toe-in, and the GF is cool - provided I get there within 50 minutes...
And noting my pseudo-withdrawal of my comments re your linked fusebox....
But yeah - that box looks great. Maybe (too?) big, but if space is okay.
In fact I'm intending(!) to do similar with my Chevy Wasp. (Well, it's not Chevy, but its next incarnation was as the Chevy LUV which became the KB & Rodeo (Isuzu).)
I'm mounting a 1991-1995 Rodeo -cum- Fontera fuse box. Very similar to yours pictured, but uses JIDECO (or JECS?) relays, ATS blades, and 2 L-type flinks. Two relay bases can be changed (for the 3 main types - 2xSPST, 2-opposing-SPST, and SPDT), and I've extracted the fuse connectors to reinsert or rewire as desired.
It's a matter of taste, and a desire for masochism.
It's more a case of what you think, and can do, and then if <whatever> is suitable.
But I like "standard" vehicle stuff in vehicles - even if from a 30-year younger vehicle. After all, it's what the original maker would have done. (Did I mention cheaper?)
Also probably more possibilities. You get to understand and can reconfigure later.
In my case, the excess of fuses solved another dilemna - wanting to be able to easily swap between outer permanent low-beams with traditional hi/low beams without complex switching and reconfiguration. (I have 4 headlights.) That will now be done via the fuses: In one case, the 2 fuses go
there, for the other, I just swap their position. Simple!
It's a bit of work, but IMO cheaper (from a wreckers etc) and better. (My original firewall mounted fuse box consists of four 3AG glass fuses, and its 30A light circuit burnt out years ago. But added lighting, cooling fan, and other relays now reside beside the battery. You may be familiar with that scenario LOL?)
As for grabbing other fuseboxes, cut the wires as long as possible. I prefer to be able to terminate original wires than have to extend them.
Oh oh - 40 minutes, and I have yet to get cleaned up!