DEI Remote Start install 08 Camry Push Start

NEED HELP PLEASE I'm all wired in. While attempting to remote start the vehicle ignition turns on with climate control, dash lights, radio, etc. The dash light to signify no key present stays lit. The vehicle doesn't turn over at all and the ignition shuts down after about 5 seconds. It tries 3 times total then my 2-way remote gives me an error signal but I don't get any feedback from the parking lights or the DBALL2 LED. I re-programmed the DBALL2 which had no affect. I'm going off the Type 3b wiring diagrams here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82c-bcI84jlenB5MXM3dk5LRVk/view?usp=sharing I verified with a continuity tester that the STSW wire is making a connection. Other than that wire it appears I don't need to make any other vehicle connections based on the instructions due to the harness. It says the wires 1 & 2 from the 12-pin DBALL connector are optional. Should I wire these in anyway? The vehicle light signifying key not present must be the heart of my problem I imagine? Not sure where to go next with this....

I was slightly mistaken about the vehicle light. I just tried starting the vehicle normally but without the smart key fob in the car and the dash LCD display actually says "Key Not Present" which isn't happening while trying to remote start. The light I was speaking of in my previous post is actually labeled as "Security" and that does stay lit when trying to remote start.

verify the connections for the stsw and OBD. OBD - controls convenience features + immobilizer STSW - start cycleTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Do you have the H3/5 Red connected to a constant 12 volt? And, did the DBALL program per the steps in the install guide?When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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tedmond wrote: verify the connections for the stsw and OBD. OBD - controls convenience features + immobilizer STSW - start cycle

The OBD connections are through the TLTH1 harness that I purchased, wouln't that be something if it ended up being a bad harness. The STSW connection is good. I double and triple checked that one.

smokeman1 wrote: Do you have the H3/5 Red connected to a constant 12 volt? And, did the DBALL program per the steps in the install guide?

Yes and yes. I'm going to go double check the H3/5 right now though just to make sure I did in fact use the right wire.

Verified that H3/5 Red is connected to constant +12V. Multimeter shows +12V on H3/1 Pink while attempting to remote start. I'm sort of thinking... are there any settings on the remote starter that I should be changing so it "knows" the meat of whats going on should be through D2D? I unplugged the D2D wire and started the remote start via remote and the relays clicking inside the Remote Starter sound exactly the same. I'm wondering if maybe it's not giving the DBALL2 a chance to start the car before it cancels because it thinks there's an issue.

Just out of curiosity sake, look on the side of the 5501 where the cover is. There are 2 jumpers. Make sure they are horizontal = and not IITed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

OK I got it working! Tachometer setting for the remote starter has four options: Virtual Tachometer (which is what it was set at), Voltage, Off, or Tachometer. I changed it to Tachometer and we're in business.

NEW QUESTION When the vehicle is started normally by push to start all keyless lock functions are disabled including on the Viper remote. Can I hook up the lock outputs from the Viper module to the vehicle lock wires and have this function back on the Viper remote while the car is running? I'm looking for a way to have the car stay running and be able to lock the doors so I can run into a store, etc. with the vehicle running.