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Problem with Jeep Grand Cherokee


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Sierra2700 
Copper - Posts: 117
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posted: December 15, 2004 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged  

Ok. Installing a Autostart 2way system in my jeep 2001-grand cherokee

Problem: When I connect the main wiring harness to the autostart brain the car starts to crank over. So I have to immediatly remove it.

Here is how the wires are hooked up

Main Harness:

A=12 volt=Red

B=Starter Output=Yellow

C=12volt=pink black

D=Ignition=Yellow

E=accessory=Dark blue

I know your supposto test each wire before you connect it, the only problem is this is a grand cherokee, and everyone who has installed those, knows they cant get access to the ignition harness so you can disconnect the harness and let it fall and then you have access to all the wires. So I tested both 12V wires, they turned out fine, but the starter, ignition and accessory wire you cant test because they are not connected to vehicles column.

Here is the wires so you can confirm that they are connected correctly. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=43867&KW=grand+cherokee

mo12v 
Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 2,748
Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 30, 2003
Location: Afghanistan
Posted: December 15, 2004 at 6:59 PM / IP Logged  

Here is how the wires are hooked up

Main Harness:

A=12 volt=Red

B=Starter Output=Yellow  * You may have your Yellows switched. Did you verify first?

C=12volt=pink black

D=Ignition=Yellow     * I have DARK BLUE as Ignition 1

E=accessory=Dark blue  * I have RED / Black as Acces.

There are more Ignition wires that need to be activated also

__________________________________________________________________________

 

Constant 12 voltsRED & PINK/BLACKIGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 voltsD BLUEIGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
StarterYELLOWIGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome LightYELLOW (-)AT BODY CONTROL MODULE *
Trunk Pin SwitchTAN/BLACK (-)TOP 52 PIN CONN. AT JUNCTION BLOCK **
Parking LampYELLOW (RESISTER SYS.)AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH (SEE TECH NOTES)
Power LockD\ ORANGE / BLACKP\ ORANGE / VIOLET ***
Power UnlockR/ PINK/BLACKS/ PINK/VIOLET
* Body Control Module (BCM) Located High In Dr. Kick Below Junction Block. ** Junction Block Located High In Driver Kick Panel. *** This Car Uses A Data Link Circuit For Power Door Locks. Wires At Switch In Driver Door Operate Driver Door Only, Wires At Switch In Passenger Door Will Operate All Other Doors.

Accessories
Window UpD\ L BLUE P\ BROWN D\ GRY/WHT P\ GRY/WHT * SEE Notes
Window DownF/ WHITE F/ VIOLET R/ GRN/WHT R/ GRN/WHT
Ign Key WarnL BLUE (-)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Trunk ReleaseN/A
OEM HornGRAY/ORANGE (-)AT STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
HeadlightsVIOLET OR VIO/RED (+)AT JUNCTION BLOCK HIGH IN DRIVER KICK
OEM Alarm ArmN/APASSIVELY ARMINGSYSTEM **
OEM Alarm DisarmLIGHT GREEN/ ORANGE (-)DRIVER DOOR MODULE-SEE TECH NOTES ***

* CAUTION!! This Vehicle Uses A Data Link Circuit For Power Windows. Colors Listed For The Driver Front Are Located At Switch In Driver Front Door. Colors Listed For Other Doors Are Located At Switches In Each Door. For Front Windows, - Reversal Rest At Ground Circuit, For Rear Windows - Reversal Rest At Positive Circuit.

** OEM Alarm Arms Passively Or Thru OEM Transmitter.

Remote Start
Tach SignalTAN/PINK *AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE **
Ignition #2BLACK/ ORANGEIGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3N/A
AccessoryRED / BLACKIGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral SafetyBROWN / YELLOW (-)AT SWITCH ON TRANSMISSION OR PCM **
Brake LightWHITE/ TAN (+)AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDEL
Reverse LightVIOLET/BLACK (+)AT SWITCH ON TRANSMISSION
Rear Window DefrostBLACK/ WHITEAT SWITCH (POLARITY UNKNOWN)

* TAN/PINK Is A 2 Cylinder Signal With A 4.0L Engine Or A 1 Cylinder Signal With A 4.7L Engine. Located In The White Connector Pin #9. ** Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Is Located Passenger Rear Of Engine Compartment. Immobilizer Bypass

MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
NowYaKnow 
Gold - Posts: 1,217
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: December 15, 2004 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged  
"knows they cant get access to the ignition harness so you can disconnect the harness and let it fall"
There is no reason to disconnect it. The grand cherokee is one of the easiest vehicles on the road. Open up the harness at the steering column and you can test all your ignition wires without unplugging anything. As stated in the car the thick red and pink/black should be 12v constant. Starter is a thick yellow. Ignition is a thick dark blue. Accessory 1 is a thick BLACK/ orange.
Accessory 2 is a thick RED / black. The thin yellow in that harness is your (-) park lights. You need a 1k ohm resistor. Brake is WHITE/ tan at the brake switch or various other places in the vehicle. With that said, I don't see any obvious reason as to why your unit starts cranking the car as soon as it's plugged in. As you can see it does look like you have some errors in your wiring so I would start by fixing them and go from there. Also do you have the ground hooked up? Be sure to hook the ground wire up to a solid ground in the vehicle before plugging the harness in. Otherwise the unit could cause strange things to happen, possibly like your experiencing. Also pick up at least a $3 test light or something and test wires your asking for trouble just guessing. Scary stuff..
Mike
Sierra2700 
Copper - Posts: 117
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged  

I actually have  a test light, I used it on the 12 volt wires, but like the starter wire won't show a signal because its not hooked up to anything, its just hanging there.

Basically my problem was getting to the harness so I just pulled it out of its socket. How do I get to it? Do you need to remove a panel or a few screws? I tried to break it apart but couldnt get any of the plastic panels off to get access to the harness. I even unscrewed the screw that can be seen once you open the door (just below the side view mirror on the inside).

Thanks for the help, but our wiring sheets don't seem to match, why would mine say there is no second ignition wire while yours does?

NowYaKnow 
Gold - Posts: 1,217
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 6:04 AM / IP Logged  
To remove the underdash panel you take 1 screw out from the side, 1 10mm out from the lower left side of the panel, 1 10mm out from the lower right side of the panel, and two screws out from the top of the panel. To reveal the 2 top screws you must remove the piece below the gauges. It just snaps out I think 4 push clips hold in on. There is no 2nd ignition wire. The car has 1 ign and 2 acc.
Mike

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