the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

04 galant remote start issues


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
drawthedj 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2008
Posted: February 16, 2008 at 6:51 PM / IP Logged  

Hello all,

I've been installing a DEI Viper 771XV in a 2004 Mitsubishi Galant...for almost a year.....and I'm having the following issues:

1. The remote start does not start at all. On other systems I've installed, I would atleast hear the relays kick in. This was almost like a shutdown input was active. Diagnostics showed either of two wires. So I traced it, and this is only a guess, the brake switch wire shows ground when not activated and positive when activated. This was never a problem before but could this be a problem now? Does it need a relay? Oh, and the brake switch wire is connected to the correct input(+). The hood and trunk triggers have been disconnected.

2. I have also installed a DEI 556UW. I'm thinking that it doesn't work too well because I can not start the car normally with a key. There is a green icon on the dash that lights up. Its the shape of a car and inside theres a key. Could this be the 556UW Showing the spare car fulltime? When I disconnect just 556, the key starts the car normally.

I've checked all the connections twice and even rewired the whole thing. I've given up on this for a little while but heard about this site and decided to start messing with it again.

I've installed a lot of alarm systems and only a hand full of remote start systems so I'm a newbie to that. My last install was on a Mecury Mountaineer which, to me, is similiar to the Galant install. Being that you need the 556 box and need to bypass the factory security. That install went well.....this one didn't. Good thing its my car. And its a great thing that I don't do this for a living...lol

Thanks in advance!

mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 17, 2008 at 9:46 AM / IP Logged  

1 There will be a BLACK/ white neutral safety switch wire. Make sure to ground this wire out or the car will not attempt to start. Your brake wire sounds correct.

2 Do you have the bypass hooked up to the (-) status output wire of the 771? It would go to the ground wire of the bypass. This will only kick the bypass on during a remote start, and shut it off a couple of seconds after it has started. It does sound like your bypass is on all the time, which is what is causing the problem. The vehicle can see only one key at a time.

drawthedj 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2008
Posted: February 17, 2008 at 11:03 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the quick reply!

The BLACK/ white neutral satefy switch wire is grounded and the status wires are hooked up correctly. That was my first thought too as to why the bypass was not working. Is there an effective way to test the bypass? I'm not too sure as to how they work. I'm thinking, if I splice the status output wires, I can check the voltage there to see if the 771 is suppling constant ground?? I tested the keysense already. If it were giving off the wrong signal, the car would only crank, correct? Like I said, I'm not too sure as to how they work other than the signal being sent from the spare key through the antenna wire?? And maybe thats even wrong.

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 17, 2008 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  

You're pretty much correct on how the 556U bypass works - it sends the signal from the key inside it to the antenna ring around the key cylinder.  It sounds to me like you may have switched the blue (-) ground-when-running input and the black (-) ground input around, which would cause it to be active all the time - however that still doesn't explain why the remote start won't initialize.

When you say the brake wire goes to 12 volts "when activated" do you mean when you're pushing the brake pedal or when you activate the remote start? If it's the first case - that's normal. Second case - you've got something else hooked up to it that's causing problems - possibly the parking light output and brake light output are shorted together.

If you were inclined to test the 556U - when you short the blue wire to ground (assuming the red wire is connected), you should hear the bypass click on; when that ground is taken away it should click off.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
drawthedj 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2008
Posted: February 17, 2008 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  

Ok I will try shorting the blue wire on the bypass when I get a chance. Thanks for the suggestion

The brake wire is showing 12 volts when it is pushed. I figured it was correct because thats how I've done them in the past. It worked everytime. The only reason I asked about it was because I retested it, which I never had to, and it showed ground when it wasn't pushed instead of 'open'. I'm not too sure if that would cause the system to not initiate the remote start process. However, the shutdown diagnostics say that it is the reason.

drawthedj 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2008
Posted: February 24, 2008 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, I've re-wired a few things and disconnected a few more just to get this thing going. The car remote starts, then cuts off right away. I went through the tach learn process and that didn't fix it. The 556 seems to be working BUT after I looked closer at the ignition switch, I noticed that the antenna from the 556uw was around the factory ring, not in front or back.
Will that have anything to do with the car not staying on 'run'? I also still see the green car/key icon on the dash when I start the car with key normally. And that leads to the car quitting after it cranks too.
I remote started the car with a key in the run position. It started fine. Then I removed the key and it stayed on. I assume that the bypass is on for the start process and then not needed after that??
Also, if anyone knows of another way to bypass this thing without the antenna ring method, pleeeeease let me know.
And if anyone here has installed a remote starter on a 2004 Galant, what equipment was used and how can I get it. At this point, I can trash these DEI pieces if need be and start over fresh. I just want to finish this so I can move on with my life...lol
04 galant remote start issues -- posted image.
mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 24, 2008 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged  
You are right about the bypass only being needed during the remote start process. Make sure your key is secure in the box with the loop as tight as you can get it,and the ring around the key cylinder should be tightly mounted on the front side of the the factory transponder ring. I use a zip tie to get rid of the slack.
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 24, 2008 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
Also - you could get a PKU-MIT bypass from Bypasskit - doesn't require the spare key and might work a bit better.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
drawthedj 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2008
Posted: February 26, 2008 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged  
I may have found the problem. When I remote start the car with a key in the ignition, in the on position, it works. Then, when I take the key out, it still works. But, the center console goes out... the factory LCD display with the temp, compass, etc.. Now that tells me that there's an ignition/accessory wire not connected, which may be needed for the fuel pump??? Just a guess though. I've checked the heavy gauge wires and they're all connected and they're all connected. So now I'm back to the bypass not working. In the meantime, there's something not connected.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 26, 2008 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Chris I love your motto! Isn't there a sec ond ignition or starter? Has our fried tested for this. If the car is an auto, take the black white to the reversing light feed. The correct brake light feed WILL go to ground when brake pedal is not depressed, that's because it's going to ground through the brake light bulb filaments. I think the favourite is the blue and black on the 556y transposed.
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, October 31, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer