viper 5701, 2007 mazdaspeed 3

krystm wrote: Why can't I edit my own posts?!

At 50 posts you become a Standard member. Standard members may edit their posts if it is the last in the thread, and upload images.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Big Dog wrote: Jworm, it's a combo so he can't use the domelight wire - it turns on at end of runtime. However, I had someone do a F350 with NC doorpins and he simply connected the positive door trigger input of the 5701. The 7 volt rise from ground was enough to trigger the alarm. He'll still needed to isolate the four doors from each other. OK, because I'm suicidal and have a fatal attraction to challenges, I'll help you out krystm. Is this a manual or auto shift car? The 5701 comes in manual transmission mode by default. If it's an automatic, you'll need to re-program the 5701 control module as per instructions in supplement.

Maybe you missed the part about me owning the same car. The hatchback version of the car (Mazda 3) has positive independent door trigger wires in the passenger kick panel. The Speed3 (Turbo version) only comes in the hatchback version. It also only comes in a manual transmission. For some reason, DEI's tech sheet list the car as only having N.O. door triggers....not the case. You are correct in that the domelight comes ON after the ignition is shut off so it would not be an appropriate wire to use.

krystm wrote: Its actually a Manual Turbo Car. So the big thing I am looking at is the turbo timer and workaround for the immobilizer. Quotes I am receiving are 68 /hr with hopefully a max of 4 hrs so around 300 to install.... So I dunno what to do at this point. Regardless of my skills or dads skills or friends skills I am competent enough to do this myself and would really like to save money and put the alarm where I want instead of where the installer wants to just slap it in. I am just looking for pointers and things to look out for during this install.

The car is not a very difficult car to do compared to other cars out there. If you have never done an install like this before, plan for 2 full days. Below the panel that is above and behind the clock is a good spot to hide the alarm brain (CPU). Bypassing the immobilizer it not too hard. I used a PKF3 on mine. There are many other modules out there that will work just as good. Download the manual for the PKF3 at bypasskit.com. The only hard part may be programming it, especially if you have the unit in manual transmission mode. I have mine in automatic mode, because I interfaced with the neutral sensing wire at the car's ECU to prevent it from starting in gear, but that is frowned upon at this website and cannot be discussed without getting the thread locked. None of the wires are too difficult to find, with the exception of the door trigger wires. I found them in the passenger pick panel in the harness running toward the back of the car. I think the wire colors were a little different than what was on DEI's tech sheet. I am going to be adding a couple more things to my alarm this weekend, so I will make a note of the wire colors for you and post again in a few days. I used the domelight supervision output of the alarm to drive a relay to power the domelight wire of the car for domelight supervision. That wire was also in the passenger kick panel. I remember getting the doorlock wires in the drivers kick, and probably the brake wire there as well. DEI's tech sheet says a double pulse may be needed for the unlock wire, but it was not on my car. I used the (-) parking light wire which is in the ignition harness along with all the ignition, accessory and starter wires. I read on DEI's forum that using the (-) parking light wire on the Mazda 3 may cause the radio lights to act erratic, but it worked fine for me. I went straight to the parking brake for the parking brake wire, but I'm sure there are easier spots to find it. I used a fuel injector wire at the ECU under the hood near the battery for my tach signal. I can email you a diagram of the ECU if you would like. Drop me a PM with your email.

Big Dog wrote: HOLY @#&^%$* ! Dude...pay someone! Then sit there and watch him do the install - you'll feel like you got a bargain when you hear him swearing. The install guide is nearly 100 pages! You gotta read every word in every paragraph on every page! Then you start over. Seasoned installers feel like newbies when they install these. It is possible to program features with the "valet" switch on the command center but it ain't easy. A Bitwriter will do the trick with the appropriate chip and software for the 5701. USB is for using the bootloader for XK bypass module programming.

Big Dog wrote: Here is the INSTALL GUIDE Here is the INSTALL GUIDE SUPPLEMENT Here is the OWNERS GUIDE

Stellar - I've been itching to read the manual for one of these beasts, since I don't deal with Directed much anymore. I'm not sure exactly what the fuss is about though. Looks to me like they're just getting on track with what other manufacturers have been doing for the better part of a decade.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

As started before... you can edit your posts after you have 50 posts. You then become a Standard member. Standard members may edit their posts if it is the last in the thread, and upload images.The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

Big Dog wrote: jworm, I've used the wires you talk about in the past as per the pic. I agree that it does work but I prefered not to use it because of the different polarities. I like the KISS philosophy.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by different polarities? It is not a normally open circuit. It is a positive circuit. The sedan is different....it is a N.O. circuit. Hatchback is positive.

JWorm wrote: ....it is a N.O. circuit. Hatchback is positive.

That's right. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Whether I do a hatch or sedan, I go to the brown connector at the BCM and I wire them the same. I'm a method worker which makes it easier to troubleshoot. Both ways are good, it's a matter of preference.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.