have i blown my amplifier?

When performing the following tests,  about 30 seconds into it, put your finger really close to the top of the 494 to see if it is getting hot.  Do not touch it, it may get really hot.  If it is even warm you can stop testing, it is bad.

Try connecting the remote lead and the jumper back to the fuse holder.  Do you have any alligator clips so you can connect the jumper and have both hands free to take some readings with the meter.    With the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp, meter to DC Volts, red lead to power terminal, then to the remote terminal, just to verify the amp is getting power.  Leave black lead there and check the following pins on the 494.  7 should read 0   8 should read 12    9 and 10 should be around 5.  11 should be the same as 8.  12 should read 12.   Let me know what you find out.

Here are the results I got last night.

Pin 7 = 0

Pin 8 = .004

Pin 9 = 0

Pin 10 = .034

Pin 11 = 0

Pin 12 = 0

So I've got what is most likely a stupid question. From what I've experienced in the past whenever something isn't working then you come to find something else isn't working...sometimes they have a common fault. This is a shot in the dark here, but I found out last night that the relay I use to run a fan above my HU and to send the remote wire back to my rear amplifiers wasn't working 100%. It wouldn't turn the fan on, but it was switching my other amp in the rear on. Is it possible that this relay hasn't been sending enough juice to power the remotes for two amps?

What I've done while the orion amp has been out of commission is running my subs off the amp that typically ran the 6 x 9s in my rear deck. I'm basically running a panaroamic front stage with subs. Perhaps the relay was working just enough to switch the one amp.....

Now that I think more about it that is completely inane. If the relay switches at all it is switched and that's just that. Correct? Also, it wouldn't have a whole lot to do with the readings I'm getting from the pins of the 494 because we're sending direct power to the amp. I don't know...I think I'm just grabbing out at anything in desperation. I went ahead and replaced the relay with one I had laying around. The fan started working again. If you think it'd be worth it I can get new readings after work and let you know what I get at about 4:45 - 5:00.  Haha, if you feel the need to berate me, go ahead, I'll understand. lol

8 and 11 should have near 12 volts.  Pin 12 should have 12 volts on it. You must have a bad solder joint on pin 12.  You are connecting the wire from pin 12 to the fuse.  You need to figure out why there is not 12 volts on pin 12. 

I received the amp and the extra parts to repair the other amps. With your help I was able to replace the output transistors and get the US Acoustics working again. I have yet to repair the JL amp that I canabalized for its transistors, but that should be a breeze. I would have been completely done for without your help! I can't begin to explain how grateful I am for your work/assistance/patience/expertise/time...the list goes on and on. You are of extrodinary value to The12Volt.com!!! The amp works like a champ and it even performs better than ever! It turned out to be bad solder joints on both fuse blocks, one bad transistor, and a defective LED. There is no way I'd have even known how to check or even being to repair those problems. You did it all for a minimal cost and fast shipment! I will sing your praises for as long as you'll let me! Thanks again and best of luck in the new year!