1993 isuzu trooper, remote start

ScytekManual wrote: Scytek 20pin Main Harness Pin 2 --> BLACK/ GRAY Tach Input --> Connect to the vehicle's tach wire or a fuel injector wire if the tachless mode does not provide satisfactory operation.

I think this was why I initially did not hook up the Tach wire. It sounds like it should at least try to start without a Tach wire, but possibly fail to "fire" and idle without it. This leaves the only current explanation for the Scytek Violet Starter wire not getting +12V at all to be that I did hook up the Scytek Brown Ignition 2 wire to the Isuzu BLACK/ Red Ignition 2 wire at the ignition switch. I hope that's it! Would be a nice easy fix :)

To sum up, the green wire, that's the one I meant when I said ground,either by parking brake (manual) or reverse wire (auto). If it doesn't see a ground, it won't work, that simple, also tach is compulsory,ref 2nd ignition, Peugeots have 2 ignitions and both have to be treated as ignition 1!  Also on BMW's if the acc is not wired up as ignition 2 the car won't start so connecting ign 2 is relevant. Also clutch switch if vehicle is a manual, if you have to press the clutch to start, then you will need to bypass the clutch switch. It's possible to take your starter feed to this switch's output.

I'm still typing up the next post, but here's a scan of the Scytek manual regarding the "2-Pin White Connector" that has the Green - Parking Brake Input wire. http://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperWiring/ScytekGalaxy5000RS_WiringP3_resize.jpg

I stumbled upon a full PDF download of the Galaxy 5000RS manual on the Scytek website. http://www.scytek.net/manuals/galaxy/g5000RS.pdf

I put on my winter gear and went out into the driveway last night to kneel on the ice and work on it. Just a side note, winter boots and thick tube socks make all the difference, especially compared to the tennis shoes and regular ankle-high thin socks I wore last weekend. Makes 24deg F seem like 50deg F. The remote start is now working. I am embarrassed to admit the problem. I had not installed the antenna. I forgot about it entirely. It was still packed in the shipping box, wrapped up in a plastic bag. All I had to do was plug in the antenna and everything worked, HVAC and Starter. When I was testing the installation last Sunday, I must have though the brain's receiver was internal to its plastic casing. I totally forgot about the separate antenna and its 5pin connector. I didn't add Ignition 2, Accessory or 2-Pin Parking Brake Input GREEN. The only wires connected in total are the following. 6 Pin Starter Harness # RED 1 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery # RED 2 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery # YELLOW (IGNITION) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch # VIOLET (STARTER) --> BLACK/ White Starter Wire from Ign. Switch 20 Pin Main Harness # GREEN / WHITE (Brake Input) --> GREEN/ YELLOW Brake Switch # YELLOW (+12 Ignition Input) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch # BLACK (Ground Input) --> Chassis Ground # RED (Power) --> +12V Battery Antenna Harness, Valet Switch Harness, LED Harness I still need to add a hood pin. This Trooper was not equipped with a factory anti-theft module and thus did not come with a factory hood pin switch. I broke the hood pin switch that came with the Scytek Galaxy 5000RS by accident. I also need to decide on incorporating other features or not. I know my father would rather stick pins in his arm than struggle trying to get a car alarm siren to stop beeping in public. He very much likes peace and quiet. That being said, the siren is very helpful for communicating with the 5000RS, especially when programming or using Valet mode. I am considering installing the siren inline with an On/Off switch. Thank you all for your help. I'll post up some pictures after work.

Rob, so sorry my communication was not more clear over on R3V. (He and I are both members on another forum, www.r3vlimited.com). The Scytek is the ONLY remote start that has a decent "tachless" setting, which is default. Parking brake input is how you activate "turbo timer" or the super secret "manual mode", which requires their programming cable (which has yet to work for me) to get to. Guys, if you have not tried Scytek, give them a shot. Terrific product, decent service, awesome prices, just all in all the best remote start on the market. I will take their product over DEI any day! Luke

I posted up pictures covering the second installation attempt. Sorry I havn't quite worked out the kinks in widening the web page. I'm not proud of using the Scotchlocks, but I had ordered and installed them before reading about their reputations here. http://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstartP2/ Do you guys normally cut off the extra wires you aren't using? There's a lot of space taken up by the relatively huge bundles of wires that is preventing a "cleaner" install. It took like ~15 zip ties to mount all of that in there without having any wires in the way of moving pieces and making everything firmly fixed in position. Thanks again for all of your help howie II, Luke (StereoInstaller), soundnsecurity, and jock1314. My Dad is very happy and is loving surprising friends with the remote start. Thanks again. Rob

Ah, I forgot that the12volt forum doesn't auto-create links. http://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstartP2/ Here's a quick snapshot, even though this one came out blurry.

Good idea cable tieing the scotchloks BUT that only solves one problem with that type of connector, the fact that mechanically they work loose also insulation displacement connectors or IDC the generic name, DONT make a good electical contact and you are dealing with high currents here. As far as I'm concerned you MUST SOLDER. That photo looks like an early Ford ignition switch, notice how the factory leads are soldered on?  Using a Weller gun or similar high output solder device I would solder to where the factory joints are soldered and cable tie your loom to the factory loom. As regards your extra cables, think very carefully as to what you might want to add in the future, OR would you transfer the device to another vehicle? If not then I would (actually do) cut those leads back to about 3" (enough to grab later if I have to) and loom them in with your other leads.