2007 ram tips for remote starter

Using the CH3 from iDatalink and using the RS232 removes the need to have the parking lights and also no horn honk on remote start either ( no sure why they program that into the CHDL7 modules ?? ) For the horn honk on lock the CH3 does this through CANBUS control. If you want to use stadard wiring for this, then use the suggestion in the last post.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

UPDATE:

I got everything done and working except for the parking lights due to time restraints.  Now... do I have to trigger the parking lights via a relay if my remote starter has a selectable parking light output (can be switched from + or -) ??  I know I will need the resistors.... but isnt the relay only for vehicles that do not have a (-) neg parking light output??

Let me know.  I plan on finishing this up tomorrow. 

Thanks.

The difference between (-) and (+) parking light outputs from aftermarket RS/alarm/keyless units: A (+) output is always a relayed output. Usually the relay's rated at 10A or so. Here's an example datasheet of one that's used in some remote starts(it's the SPDT variant). The (+) output has basically no more resistance to constant 12V when it's active than if you'd run a wire directly to the positive battery terminal. The (-) output is a low current transistorized output, which is designed only to drive a relay. With the jumper selecting "+" on your RS it will drive the internal parking light relay. Move the jumper to "-" and it will bypass that relay and its negative current will go directly to the white wire (I've assumed here that your lights are jumper selected and the parking light output wire is white), so that it can control a (-) switched relay on the car. This (-) output, since it's supplying ground via several transistors, does have internal resistance to ground. So when working on a Chrysler with resistive parking lights, if you connected it directly with the (in this case) 1130 ohm resistor, the truck would see some much higher resistance and you'd probably get either no lights or the headlights would come on too. I'd suggest 3 options: 1. Use a relay like you've suggested. You've got the pins right, and the resistor would be 1130 ohms(any value within 10% of that should work) and wired inline on the wire from 87 or from 30. 2. Get several resistors, and wire them inline on the wire from your RS(jumpered to (-) of course) going to the WHITE/ lt. green on the truck. Use trial and error until you find a resistor value that will activate only the lights that you want. 3. Assuming your factory parking light relay is (-) control, you could use the solution that some have done on Grand Cherokees which you also mention above, wrapping one of the relay terminals directly. The internal resistance inside your AutoCommand doesn't matter when driving a relay.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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