2009 Honda CR-V Remote Start And Wiring

Adding a thought to what Chris said,  with those flip flop low current outputs,  I found a few years ago to always diode them to avoid silly problems.  They wouldn't even work on BMWs or  UK Fords with factory KE systems.  I noticed on DEI's latest install manuals that they NOW tell you to use diodes as well.  Chris,  "your find by fire"  is a great system,  been using the "let's hope it's this one,  connect the tach wire to it and see if it programmes" approach for sometime now, then if it works solder and seal off.  Trouble is I sometimes forget to solder! (The Danny Crane Syndrome)

Thanks again guys...I'll try the find-by-fire method :) Three more questions for you if you don't mind. 1. Would you guys happen to know if there is a "hood" wire for the car? This way I don't have to use that dumb hoodpin switch that comes with it. 2. I was going to hook up a siren to the brown wire instead of the car's horn. I can do this without a relay, right? 3. I have what I'm assuming are the "progressive" door locks where the first time I hit unlock it opens the driver's door, and the second time I hit it all the doors unlock. If I want to keep them progressive, can I just not use H1/6 Blue wire and it will act normally (when the car is running remotely)? Thanks!

2. The manual only says I need a relay if I need to convert the signal from (-) to (+). I was assuming if I didn't need a relay for the horn, then I wouldn't need one for the piezo, but I guess that's wrong thinking? 3. Basically if I hook up the Python KE/RS and I want to maintain the vehicle's progression unlock, is it ok to just tape off the H1/6 BLUE wire? Thanks for the reply!

You don't need a relay for the Siren, you might well for the horn unless the horn lead at the steering column has a relay after. First does horn work without ignition if not forget the rest. Find horn lead at steering column, first see if it's pos or neg, if pos lead to 85 on relay, 12v+ to 86 and 87, 30 to horn wire. If neg, place your meter in DC 10amp test mode, red to horn wire, black to ground see how much current is drawn when it sounds the horn. If 100milliamps or less you're OK to wire directly. To maintain progressive lock, use the alarm's green to lock and blue via a relay to DRIVER's unlock motor wire as follows blue to 85, 7amp fused 12v+ to 86 and 87, car side of driver's unlock wire to 87a and motor side to 30. Take your secondary unlock wire to 85, 15amp fused 12v+ to 86 and 87 car side of passenger unlock wire to 87a and motor side to 30. That's it.

1. Audiovox states hood trigger is light blue, in harness in driver kick panel. 2. The horn switch wire is low current and activates a factory relay - that's why you don't need to add your own to control it with the Python's low current horn output. A siren would draw more current than the horn output is capable of supplying; therefore a relay is necessary. 3. With the car running remotely, the factory keyless entry won't work at all (Honda factory keyless entry stops working when the ignition is on). Therefore you'll need to use the Python's remote for keyless entry. If you want it to unlock progressively, you'll need to utilize the H1/6 blue "2nd unlock" output as well as a relay, and make the following wiring changes: Blue " (-)unlock, (+) lock" will go to pin 85 of the relay. Pins 86, 87 will go to constant fused 12V+. Pins 87a and 30 will go to the driver's door unlock motor lead, which should be gray with silver dots in the harness going into the driver's door. To verify that you have the correct wire, cut the suspected wire in half and operate the power lock switch in both directions. The driver's door should not operate but all the others should. 30 from the relay will go towards the actuator in the door, 87a will go away from it. Last - the H1/6 "2nd unlock" output will go to the (-) unlock switch wire on the car. C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Thanks for the replies guys...you're really helping me out a lot. I believe I've reached the testing/aggravation stage :) I have all the wires temporarily hooked up, and nothing happens when I hit the Python remote (in terms of the lock/unlock button or the remote starter. If I hold the lock button, the panic kicks in, so at least I know it's getting the signal. If I disconnect the RS ribbon connection, then the Python "clicks" when I hit the lock/unlock on the Python remote, but the doors don't lock/unlock. I'm using the blue wire and grey wire for the door locks. They seem to respond with the multimeter and when I use the switch on the door. But when I hook them up to the Python, nothing happens. Can't I supply ground to the wires that I'm using for the lock / unlock to make sure it's the right wires? Now that I think about it, maybe I can't. Ugh, it's too late to be doing this. I'm probably missing something totally stupid. Oh, and I'm using the Fortin electronics bypass by the way.

loneranger wrote: cpgoose wrote: They seem to respond with the multimeter and when I use the switch on the door. What exactly do you mean by "respond"? I mean that as I'm probing the wires and I hit the lock/unlock button on the door, the meter jumps all the way up and then falls back down. I can't really tell how many volts it shows because it happens so fast. That's why I'm assuming I have the right wires. cpgoose wrote: Can't I supply ground to the wires that I'm using for the lock / unlock to make sure it's the right wires? Yes. However, I highly recommend you fuse the GROUND at ~1A or less.

I literally take a spare wire and touch one end to the car's chassis and touch the other end to the wire that I'm testing, but unfortunately it doesn't do anything. Is this because it uses a transponder?

I've also skipped a bunch of wires that I don't want to use. I'm assuming that's ok, and it's not causing the system to not respond. For example, I skipped: 1. H1/1 (RED / White) Channel 2 2. H1/3 (Brown) Horn honk 3. H1/7 (Blue) Second unlock 4. H1/9 (BLACK/ White) Domelight Supervision 5. H1/10 (WHITE/ blue) Remote start activation input 6. H1/11 (white) Selectable Light Flash Output 7. Relay satellite wire: RED / white (12v input) 8. H2/1 (Violet/black) Channel 4 output 9. H2/2 (GREEN / WHITE) factory rearm output 10. H2/3 (Gray/Black) Diesel wait-to-start bulb input 11. H2/4 (Light GREEN/ Black) Factory alarm Disarm 12. H3/1 (BLACK/ White) Neutral Safety Switch Input (I grounded this) 13. H3/4 (Gray) Hood pinswitch input (I taped this off) 14. H3/5 (Blue/White) Status/Defogger output I also didn't plug in the LED or VALET SWITCH. Is it ok to do this, or do some of those wires have to be used regardless?