2001 yukon, bulldog rs1200e

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jcowart

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: January 02, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 2:15 PM / IP Logged

I did my verification based on what the instructions said and based on my reading. I can't remember exactly what the numerical reading was but the wire was (-).

The way I connected the wire was to strip a portion of about 3/4 of an inch of the wire bare all the way around (no cutting) and twisted, then soldered the wires together. The only way the wire could be disconnected is if it was pulled out of the BCM (which I did not notice). Then again, it may be out the tiniest bit and not receiving, I dont know.

I do have an OEM keyless system. The unlock button works fine, but the locks do not respond when I press the lock button on the OEM remote.

It is strange. Everything else works perfectly, just not the door locks switch. In fact, the switch on the door panel does not respond when I try to unlock it either.

To sum up, the OEM remote will unlock, but not lock. The door panel switches all the way around will neither lock nor unlock.

Hopefully that is clear.

Thanks for your help so far. I do appreciate it

Jason Cowart

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 2:27 PM / IP Logged

Have you tried disconnecting the door lock wires from the remote start unit to see if that allows your door lock switches to start working again? It's a long shot but it's worth taking a minute and trying it out.

I can't think of anything that would result in what you have - typically when the door lock switches don't lock/unlock the doors the OEM keyless remote won't either. Is there any other strange things going on with the vehicle? Is it possible that you have a bad door pin that is making the truck think a door is open and thus not allowing you to lock the doors?

Kevin Pierson

jcowart

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: January 02, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 2:29 PM / IP Logged

No it is very strange. The doors lock and unlock perfectly with the remote starter remote, if that makes since. Every button on this remote works great.

But on the OEM and door panels, the lock feature does not work.

Jason Cowart

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged

To recap: Your factory door switches will not lock or unlock. Your factory remote will unlock, but will not lock. Focus on those issues. It sounds like 2 sperate issues.

Along the lines KPierson stated, you should partially disconnect your installation. I would start with disconnecting the R/S door lock outputs from the vehicle and see what results from the factory remotes and door switches. I would also check the drivers door pin. Does your door chime come on with the key in the ignition, with the driver's door open and closed? If you check, do not turn the key forward, just put it in the ignition. Also, check the factory remote operation with the vehicle started.

jcowart

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: January 02, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged

Okay here's what I did:

1. Contacted the GMC dealership today and they are faxing me the BCM wiring diagram so I can be 1000000% sure what is going on there, even though I have been confident that I connected with the right wire.

2. I followed the above advice and checked the fuses for the locking system. Here's what happened:

I noticed there were 2 fuses that controlled the lock action in the fuse box under the dash. One was a 20 amp and the other a 3 amp. I noticed the 3 amp was burnt out. I replaced it with another 3 amp and tried the locks. They worked!, BUT it blew the fuse again. This must mean the instructions were incorrect and the wire I connected with is the positive instead or the negative.

Is my assumption correct? Or is there another issue here?

Thanks in advance.

Jason Cowart

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:30 AM / IP Logged

LOL! I tried following this thread, but I can't tell what's actually been connected from the R/S to the vehicle and what signal it's been programmed to send, if any. I would suggest, as I did before, you disconnect your R/S lock/unlock wires from the vehicle and start from there. I'm not sure if others would agree with me, but I would highy suggest you diode isolate your lock/unlock wires in-line, from the R/S. This will protect the R/S on-board lock/unlock circuit, because of the flip-flop interface, from being shorted if someone operates the opposite vehicle switch and remote, at the same time. I'm not sure if BDS uses that interface, but DEI certainly does. Correct me if I'm wrong!

Note: I'm showing that vehicle with positive door locks.

jcowart

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: January 02, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 08, 2009 at 8:34 AM / IP Logged

Sorry if all of this has been confusing. I have included what the manual said below and an image of the module. Note the door locking section is at the top. I connected the door unlock wire (gree/black) to the white wire in my bcm which is the door unlock. I connected the door lock wire (blue/black) to the light blue wire on the bcm that controls the locks. While there were 4 wires that were light blue coming from the bcm, I followed the instructions below and identified the correct wire. (based on the instructions) The only way I could have gone wrong is if the manual itself is not correct.

Hopefully that explains it a little better.

Thanks for your replies in advance

“Type A” Door Lock Test (Most GMs and some Chryslers)

Press and hold the lock button on the switch and test the lock wire. The correct wire will test (+) positive.

Release the lock button and this wire should show a (-) negative. Now press and hold the unlock button on the switch and test the unlock wire. The correct wire will test (+) positive. Release the unlock button and this wire should show a (-) negative. Your vehicle has a “Type A” door locking system.

2001 yukon, bulldog rs1200e - Page 3 -- posted image.

Jason Cowart

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: January 08, 2009 at 9:00 AM / IP Logged

Ok. What is the RED / BLACK from the module connected to? I would recommend you replace the fuse with a 3 amp. Also, follow the GREEN / WHITE and BLUE/WHITE, to make sure they are not connected to anything, such as accidental grounding.

Regarding my previous post, you have relays, so the issue with diode isolating does not pertain. However, when the outputs are not driven by relays, then this does pertain.

jcowart

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: January 02, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 08, 2009 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged

the RED / black called for simply a constant (12v) power source so it is connected to a constant source.

I understand about the diode isolating.

The unused wires are coiled out of the way with electrical tape on the ends, so I don't see how there could be a grounding issue. but that is clever. I'll double check when I get off work

What would cause that 3 amp fuse in my fuse box to blow?

When I replaced it, it did not, but as soon as I pressed the lock switch on the door panel, it blew.

Jason Cowart

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: January 08, 2009 at 9:46 AM / IP Logged

jcowart wrote:

What would cause that 3 amp fuse in my fuse box to blow?

I was reffering to the fuse on the RED / BLACK wire. If you can find a 2-amp or 1-amp ATC fuse, that would be even better.

jcowart wrote:

When I replaced it, it did not, but as soon as I pressed the lock switch on the door panel, it blew.

As I've stated before, pull the R/S lock/unlock wires off the vehicle and test. It's possible, though unlikely and not designed that way, that the R/S lock(BLUE/BLACK) wire is providing a ground at rest, and maybe even the R/S lock(GREEN/ BLACK) wire also, if you haven't tested unlock yet. You can test for these, once their off the vehicle.

Also, that logic probe your using is not going to help you diagnose. Get a DMM !!!!!!! Your factory lock/unlock wires are negative at rest, but not a direct ground. They should show ~250 ohms resistance to ground. Forget what that manual is telling you and put the logic probe aside.

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