Pulling my hair out!!!

How do you have your tach sensing hooked up?

I have worked with a few of the Crimestopper remote start alarms. One of which was on a Ford Contour SVT with the Ford PATS system I believe. Anyhow, to ensure that the remote start part of the alarm is working fine, you should be able to put your key into the igntion, and try to start it with your remote. If the car still shuts down, its probably not the transponder part of the alarm. However, if the remote start still does not work, it may be the transponder. I think, being that the remote start was previously working, that it would have to be the transponder, and should not have anything to do with the tach, ignition wires, etc .. as long as they are still intact. Good luck is all I can tell you. If you need any further information feel free to e-mail me @   drvnbysound@aol.com

try transponder.com they have great stuff

To make sure that it is the passlock, look at your dash lights when you attempt to remote start. If the security light acts just as it does when you start the car with the key, then that is not your problem. However, it is very likely that your problem is the bypass module. I am not familiar with the CS bypass you are using, but you said that it uses a pot for the resistance. Did you actually have to dial in the resistance to the pot? I have neevr seen a module that does that. I either use the PLDATA from www.bypasskit.com or I create my own bypass setup with a relay and a trimpot. It is true that cold temperatures will effect the resistence in a resistor, but that is why a trimpot is better than a resistor, because you can get the value within a fraction of a percent. I have heard that the passlock systems have a 5% tolerance, so I figure if I can get the pot withing 1% then the cold weather will not change the resistance more than 4%. If you just want to try a simple bypass method to guarantee that your bypass is not the issue, take a look at this diagram: Passlock II Temporary Bypass (Diagram #2) To get the resistence value: Strip back the Black wire. Start the car with the key, then cut the yellow passlock wire. strip back the key side of the yellow wire and take a DMM and put one lead on the key side of the yellow wire and the other on the Black wire. Record the resistence, then reverse the two leads and record the resistence. Use the higher of the two resistences recorded as your resistence and then set up the relay diagram using a resistor or a trimpot. Note: For trucks and SUV's the passlock ground wire is ORANGE / Black, and for cars it is just Black, so it may appear that I have conflicting references to the color of that wire, but if you remember this note then it will all make sense. If you dont want to use a trimpot you can just use a resistor, but make sure that you get it very close to the resistence. Like I said, I have heard you should only allow a 5% tolerance, but I would get it as close as possible so when it gets cold, then it will stay within the tolerance, that is why I like trimpots because even if you have a cheap DMM, you can still get the resistance within 1% of tolerance. J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Sounds like your PassLock bypass....you can do what jrilla said, get the PLDATA, make your own, or run a DEI 555L. The 555L is self-learning to the tolerance in the key(s). Another option would be the 555U also by DEI, however, it will completely bypass the Passlock, and would require you ro leave a key under the dash at all times in a nifty lil plastic container. Any bypass module will work, or you can run down to Radio Shack and grab a trimpot... Good Luck

online, nope...sorry...however, anyone whom sells Viper, Sidewinder, or any alarm by DEI has them available...immediately...( try Best Buy, or Circuit City ) The price varies I've noticed...one shop I worked for charged $50, antoher Charged $35....calla round, when you find the cheapest....there ya go