1995 gmc sierra lock wires melting

I have a 1995 GMC Sierra extended cab 5.7L sle and i just bought a remote start and car alarm for it (Scytek Astra 4000RS Series). I am having an issue with the door locks on the remote. I have them hooked up according to a 5 wire alternating 12V positive door lock diagram (https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/5wap.gif) 85 - the wire to the alarm 86 - 12V (+) (constant) 87 - 12V (+) (constant) 87a - switch side of the lock wire (reads 0V at rest) 30 - motor end of the lock wire (reads 12V when pressed lock or unlock) i hooked up the relays to the lock wires inside my drivers door if that matters. when i go to lock and unlock the doors with the buttons on my doors it works fine, but when i click on the lock or unlock button on my remote the wires heat up and i even had one melt almost all the way to my starter. I don't know what to do. In advance thanks for the help

your truck needs the Reverse Polarity diagram www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/typec.htm

that is how it is wired but it still melts the wires

The door lock wire is light blue and the lock wire is white. If your truck had factory keyless entry, then wire the door locks as a postive pulse system. If it didn't have keyless then they are a 5 wire polarity reversal system. Look in the glove box for the optin code label. Factory keyless is option code AUO. If my guess is correct, you have not installed a fuse for the power supply wire to the relays and you probably have terminals 87a and 30 backwards on the relays. Install the fuse (15 amp) and recheck your wiring.sparky

I haven't had very much time lately to look at my wiring but, i just recently wired it how it is described above and rechecked my wiring, but it still doesn't work, it just keeps blowing the fuses that i put in. Any Ideas? thanks

^ Ditto! A properly, fused source would have prevented this disaster and is basic wiring procedure/knowledge.Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

I already know what I did wrong. But my fused power source keeps blowing 30 amp fuses. I have checked my Wiring and based on the post above I have done it correctly but my door locks still don't work. If you could give me a hand that would be awesome.

You need to conduct some diagnostics on all the wires you're using for door-locks, with your DMM.Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

Change the relay wiring. In your first post you said "motor wire to terminal 30, reads 12volts + when pressed lock or unlock"?  Firstly it will be either or NOT both lock and unlock so do you have the right wire?   Secondly it can't  be the motor wire, that will still be at ground if you cut the wire. It's the wire side coming from the vehicle's lock controler that changes to 12v+ for about 0.8secs. So if it is the wire you've got 87a and 30 the wrong way round. This will blow your fuses.  Also read Sparkies post again.