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soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 13, 2009 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged  
personally i have the viper 791xv ( a little old ) but i hide my antenna under the headliner and it didn't seem to make a difference even after i had some dark tint installed. also let me warn you now, that 1 mile range they speak of is limited to line of sight. so if there are any obstacles in the way like buildings or trees then you can expect that range to go down a lot.
and that is true, you shouldn't need the glass break sensor if you use the proximity sensor but i like lots of defense. the glass break is so cheap there is really no reason not to have one, but any way thats just me.
and also, it might not be that good of an idea to hide the brain that well because you still want to be able to get to it without having to tear the whole car apart but thats up to you. all im saying is that you might need to periodically adjust the settings of the alarm and especially if you are using the remote start.
and it doesn't matter if you are using factory or aftermarket harnesses i was just saying in general it will come out better if you run the wires with whatever harnesses are there already.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 13, 2009 at 5:09 PM / IP Logged  
Some thoughts. Place the Siren where you suggested and try it.  You are in a marvelous position where you can chop and change relatively easily, the idea of burying your alarm wires in the new loom is very good, also soundnsecurity makes a good point for service accessing the brain. The best place soundwise is if you have an inner wing splash shield, get it behind the headlights.  Protected and hard to get at.
67stang 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: April 09, 2009
Posted: April 16, 2009 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  
S&S.. Cool. I was hoping I could mount it to the roof before I installed the headliner. We'll be having a light tint on the windows but just enough to add some UV protection. Glad to hear it should still work. I understand the line of site bit however a 1 mile LOS should still have better range then a 1/4 mile LOS even with buildings.
I've rethought my plans for the brain and have changed its location. Still hidden well with very little access but is accessible. Thanks for pointing this out. Also yes, all the wires will be bundled together with the main car wires. I'll be running all the wires from point A to point B in the car first then removing everything carefully and securing it in loom to create my own harness. Then the harness gets installed.
howie.. Thanks for bringing up splash shields! 2 reasons.. I need to order the new shield rubbers (I keep forgetting!) and a great install area.. between the cowl splash shield and door post.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
1967 Mustang: Built 351w Roller, 4-Speed Toploader, Coil-over Front Suspension, Power R&P,
9+ Currie w/TrueTrac 3:25, Ron Francis Wiring, 4-Wheel Disk Brakes, Vintage Air Heat & A/C,
& so much more!
jasonlipka 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 9:49 AM / IP Logged  
Just found this thread. Y may want to rethink that mounting spot for the 515R. Reason being, you need to "kinda" be able to get to it. Why? If someone cuts your battery cables (doesn't sound like they'll be able to on your car), the 515R will sound and the only way to shut it up is to use the key on the back of the siren.
So what I am saying is that if you hide the 515R siren so very well, then if it ever trips, you're gonna have to tear your car apart to shut it up.
Personally, I would hide the regular siren really well and put the battery backup (515R) siren in a spot that's easier to get to. So what if they can see the 515R, what are they gonna do about it? If they cut the wires to it, it goes off. Besides, you need to be able to get to it somewhat easily to disarm it. And also to test it. The batteries in those things don't last forever, you know.
Another things is that you'll need to disarm the siren if you ever disconnect the battery cable (replace the battery) or if the battery goes dead (a dead main battery "appears" like the battery cable has been cut to the 515R). These are all times when you'll need to be able to access the siren to manually disarm it with the key.
Part of me wants to say that you can almost use a 515R to entice a thief into setting off the alarm before he's even started on the cabin of the vehicle. Also, remember that if you place the siren under the hood, they have to get past the hood pin before they've even laid eyes on your siren(s).
FTW, I'd mount the 515R in the engine compartment and put the 514N (included) siren in your rear quarter panel, as described previously.
Also, I realize it may seem redundant to run both the 520T and the 515R, but I like redundancy. If the thief cuts your siren and power to the unit and the alarm is still wailing away, he's really gonna be scratching his head. And you were asking what the 520T powers. EVERYTHING. It provides power to the main unit. Whatever the brain powers, the 520T will as well. That's why they recommend using the negative output to drive a relay for the parking lights. Otherwise, the 520T has to power them, which cuts into how long the 520T can power the system.
Hope this helps.
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