ok, ok, box designing it is.

Here is the pics I said I would post. I am the one in the blue and white button up, my bro is the other one. As you can see, my cutting was off a bit on this first one. (: I siliconed the outside of the parts that I couldn't get to because of attaching the port too soon. That should suffice...I hope. The new size goes for both boxes because the second one is already glued that way. Please help with the figuring. Thanks for any help.

Here is the one with me, it was too large and I didn't realize. The first two above are the second box...I am getting much better with the skill saw. (:

Your issue? You are not pre-drilling. If you ARE pre-drilling, your drill bit is too small. Also, I find that coarse drywall screws are much better at holding in MDF than are fine thread screws. MDF MUST be pre-drilled, or you will split as you have seen. Even if you are not so close to the edge that you can't see the de-lamination, it is happening, and your joint is not as strong as it COULD be. Nice BBQ! :)It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Yes I am pre-drilling. I have a 7"/62 drill bit and 2" deckmate all purpose coarse threaded screws. I think what happened was that my bro thought if we put small nails on each end of the port, it would be easier to find the middle of the port board with a stud finder when screwing it down. I think that screw got really close to the nail. At this point I realize that I should have cut the length of the boards to 21.5". We cut them to 23". So, now I have a box with the port included of 3.05 cu ft. What I am going to do is put that # in the slot port calculator on this site for the (vb). It gives me a port length of 22" long for 30hz. That displacement is .47 cu ft. Minus .47 cu ft. from 3.05 cu ft. That gives me 2.58 cu ft. of internal volume. I then plug 2.58 cu ft. into the (vb) part in the calculator for the slot port. It now gives me a length of 27" long for 30hz. This length of port takes up .58 cu ft. So, I minus .47 from .58 cu ft to get a difference of .11 cu ft. Minus .11 cu ft. from 2.58 cu ft., and get a final (vb) box volume of 2.47 cu ft. (I will still have to account for bracing and the driver though.) Is this the correct way to do this? Please help. My last day of vacation is today, I want to have as much done as possible today.

The figuring never ends.  You just have to stop somewhere.Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Hey, thanks Stevdart, for replying. I will upload some pics after a bit. I have finally finished and siliconed the boxes and everything. I will hook it up tomorrow. Do I have to wait a whole 24 hrs to let the silicone dry and cure, or can I hook it up tomorrow at noon or so? I finished siliconing at about 9:00pm tonight due to circumstances beyond my control.

If you screwed it together (and it appears that you have) the silicone is only there to seal the gaps... ou should be fine to hook it up by that time tomorrow. If it's no longer tacky on the outside, and if it feels rubbery, without feeling "structure free" you're all cured up as good as you're gonna get.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Ok, thanks haemphyst. I have read somewhere that the fumes may be still present, and could eat at your surround and possibly distroy your woofer. That's why I asked. I put my Kenwood on the baffle of one of them, just to see what it would look like...pretty sweet. I just sold the 2 Kenwoods today btw. Anyone know of some good carpet that is thin (I have maybe 1/4" on each side of my trunk with these bad boys in there. (: What do you all think of my bracing? Is it good? It is what Kicker manual suggested. Sorry so many pics, hope you don't mind. Just want you all to get a good look at these things.

Silicone, as it cures, creates acetic acid. Also known as common vinegar, I don't think there will be any issues with vinegar fumes "eating" any of your woofer's "soft parts". That cannot be said for ALL adhesives or sealants. Liquid Nails could do some serious damage, but most other water or silicone based products should be fairly safe. If you can breathe the fumes or work around the product without having to use a respirator according to the label, then your woofer'll be safe. Also, I notice that you have the woofer already installed. If there were to be any damage done, it would not be exacerbated simply by "playing it", and it's already too late... As mentioned, though, you'll be perfectly safe powering it up, once the silicone cures to the point of being solid. As far as your bracing? That looks pretty decent, but I LOVE overkill... I'd've made a cross brace, and cut a big hole in it rather than just the corner braces... :) And probably two of them. Kicker only recommends what they do to minimize panel flex, where I go all the way to stopping all vibrations to whatever extent I can. I think you'll probably be good to go!It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

The woofer is not installed in that picture, it is just sitting there; in the hole. The front baffle is not even installed at that point. Just thought I would let you know that. I just wanted to see what it would look like with a woofer in there. (: I sold that speaker and its twin later in the day. I made these boxes for the 2 Kicker 12" CVR's. I am going to run the wires through the ports to hook it up. I don't really have very much room to get a terminal anywhere that isn't iffy about where it is located. Thanks for the reassurance Haemphyst. I appreciate all you guys help.