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door actuator


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micrors4racer 
Copper - Posts: 88
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2009
Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
micrors4racer wrote:
Heres a video of it in action. What should I do? Do you think the control box is faulty? The first part shows the connections to the actuators and the other part is the red and green wires into the control box's lock and unlock output.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/micrors4racer/?action=view¤t=1251423414.flv
I mean blue and green. Also I'm an Idiot their not going back and forth only when the driver side is pushed in, both locks go in then back out again but it doesn't do it over and over again unless you push it in once more.
micrors4racer 
Copper - Posts: 88
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2009
Posted: August 27, 2009 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
Update, If i unhook all the other wires except for the blue and green one, it works just fine.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/micrors4racer/?action=view¤t=1251424824.flv
But I would really like to use the driver door lock as a switch so I still need help figuring this out.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 1:56 AM / IP Logged  
I think somewhere at the beginning of this long drawn out saga I mentioned about NOT connecting all 5 wires in the passenger door, just the motor wires. The micro switches (position sensors) on each 5 wire motor might be in opposition to each other.  Wonderful video, doesn't show the motor or linkage, also how about flipping the door catch or had you done that?
micrors4racer 
Copper - Posts: 88
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2009
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 2:36 AM / IP Logged  
I don't think you mentioned not connecting all the wires on the passenger motor in this thread. Tommorow I will try just having the passenger motor hooked up to the blue and green and the driver side all 5 wires. I did try just lifting the lock and it would lift up just fine and stay that way but it wont activate the other motor.
Here is the linkage. When I connected the linkage to the lock rod The motor was in the middle of its travel between fully extended and fully retracted. Is that how their supposed to be mounted?
door actuator - Page 3 -- posted image.
door actuator - Page 3 -- posted image.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  

First, sorry I didn't mention it but we answer this type of question so often we often forget.  On a 5 wire actuator (or solenoid or dor motor, they all mean the same) 2 of those wires are motor wires, on yours blue neg sitting goes pos to open, green neg sitting goes pos to close. The other 3, black to ground (actually on some cars e.g. Ren 5 this is pos but it's irrelevant) and white and brown are the switches. Inside a 5 wire are positional micro switches. When that motor is pulled or pushed either white or brown will then STAY common to the black...that's why the "proper" relays shut down their coils after about 1.5 secs. When you have cheap i.e. non MES motors, if one motor is sitting fractionally (can be less than 1/4"-6.4mm) lower or higher than the other, it will affect the micro switch.

The answer to your last query is you are doing this wrong. Loosen the rod clamp, shut the door lock striker (so the mech thinks the door is closed), lock or unlock the door then align the motor so it's at MAXIMUM pull less about 1/4". Tighten. Remember my above coments, now it should pull sufficient to lock or unlock and control the passenger motor.

micrors4racer 
Copper - Posts: 88
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2009
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 2:02 PM / IP Logged  
Okay I will try that on saturday and get back at you guys, I am busy today and need the car so I cant work on it. I'll keep the passenger motor only 2 wire and use all 5 wires on the driver and reposition them like you said and we'll see what happens.
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