viper 5901 on 09 mazdaspeed 3

scam404, With the car running, can you use a key in the driver's door to lock/unlock all doors? If that's the case, there shouldn't be a problem with ignoring the multiplex resistance lock/unlock wire. If a double pulse to unlock all doors is required, or if you want to use the ignition controlled lock/unlock feature of the Viper, you'll have to connect the regular lock/unlock green and blue wires to the car. Wouldn't hurt to block the positive outputs either - this is as simple as inserting a diode inline on each wire, with the cathode(striped) side facing the alarm module.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ok, So I just finished my install last night and i am having some weird issues. The lock/unlock, door trigger, horn, siren, and parking lights all work correctly but the hood is tripping it out and making it go off like every thirty minutes. It is saying hood open on the remote even though it isnt. I hooked it up to the wire in the pjb that it says is the hood pin switch but i could not get a reading off that thing to save my life. Is it ok to just unhook that wire and ground it or something? because i dont see any other wires in the service manual pinout diagrams that would suffice... Also, the little toggle switch that comes with the unit that has on and off, can i just leave that unhooked completely or do i have to hook it up and put it to on? The remote start is acting funny, when i start the car and try to do a valet takeover, the remote just makes a loud buzzing noise and says remote start error with 7 flashes which means it is waiting for a shutdown sequence from manual mode even though i have programmed it to go into automatic mode several times... Another weird thing is that when i hold down the valet button to go to the third programming menu (remote start menu) and i push the button 2 times then hold it down until it chirps, i try to put it on the mode for tach reading instead of virtual tach and it will only select between 1 to 3 chirps and there are four choices for that setting, the fourth of which is the tach which is the one i want.... its like the menus are screwed up or something weird is going on... i have programmed remote starts before and have never seen anything like what this one is doing.... So right now i have the parking brake wire hooked to the neutral safety switch input of the remote start input harness, and it reads a ground while it is pulled up and like .14 volts when down, i dont know if that is adequate or not. And i have the neutral safety switch which puts out a ground when in neutral hooked up to the brake wire input, should i switch these around or what? Could the brain not want to switch to tach mode because it has not properly learned the tach signal and that option is not available because of that? i thought i taught it properly but maybe not. Please Help!!!!!

eh....just saw your above post after replying to your pm. I'll repost my PM reply here. My Speed did not come with a factory alarm, and it did not come with a factory hood pin. Unhook the wire. Do not ground it. If you ground it, that will make it never work. A hood pin shows ground when the hood is open. Grounding the wire would make the remote start NEVER work. If you want hood protection, I would suggest buying a switch. If you want let me know and I can find you some links on eBay. Plug in the toggle switch and put it to the on position. I would mount it. When you are having the vehicle serviced turn it to off. You should get to the correct setting for tach by doing the following: Ignition ON, then OFF Press and hold valet button until the sire chirps 3 times in a row, then release Press and release the valet button twice, press it a third time and hold. Siren should chirp twice. DO NOT release valet button. Press lock....should chirp twice, press lock...should chirp three times, press lock...should chirp 4 times. Release valet button. The brain probably won't learn tach signal, until tach mode is selected. The parking brake wire going to the neutral safety input, and the neutral wire (of the car) going to the brake wire (of the remote start) is fine. Do you have the brake wire (of the car) going to the remote start at all? I have not installed DEI product since 2005, so I am not too familiar with the newer products. I have read about them a lot, and their design is still similar to back when I did.