2009 camry ignition harness , 5901 wiring

Ok, I have gotten the wiring diagram from Audiovox as well as Directech I have gone over the electrical system diagram from Toyota and there are some errors and This being the last thing I am hooking up, I want to get this right. ONCE. Here is what Audiovox says about the ignition harness Battery BLACK           (+) Ignition 1          YELLOW          (+) Ignition 2          PINK          (+) Accessory 1          WHITE          (+) Starter 1          BLUE          (+) Starter 2          GRAY          (+) Now, This is what the electrical diagram from Toyota says: Battery BLACK           (+) (pin 5) Ignition 1          PINK          (+) (pin 1) Ignition 2          YELLOW          (+) (pin 6) Accessory 1          WHITE          (+) (pin 2) Starter 1          GRAY          (+) (pin 3) Starter 2          BLUE          (+) (pin 7) AM1 (Battery)           ORANGE          (+) (pin 4) And the 5901 H3 Harness is as follows: Pink             IGN 1 output RED / White     12v constant fused 30a input (87 of RS flex relay) Orange             Accessory output Violet             Starter output (car side) Green             Starter output (key side) Red             12v constant fused 30a input (for IGN1 relay) Pink/White     Flex Relay output (default IGN2, prgm) Pink/Black     Flex Relay contact 87a (defualt IGN2, prgm) RED / Black     12v constant fused 30a input (Access & Starter) Now, Orignally I had all the wiring ready to go according to the Audiovox output, since then I have gone thru the Toyota Electrical diagrams and started wondering if what i had was backwards as it is completely opposite of Audiovox. So a few questions. According to Toyota, Starter 2 is what DIRECTLY goes to the starter coil and Starter 1 seems like it goes thru the check & balance circuitry to power the coil in the starter relay so that Starter 2 can crank the engine. Which one of these wires gets cut and put between the green and violet on the 5901 and which one gets spliced into? In comparing the Audiovox output to the Toyota diagram, The starter and ignition wires are flipped. Is there a reason for this? or do I wire it according to how Toyota dictates. I got everything nailed down and just want to clear up this last piece. You input is as always greatly appreciated and my Ignition system will thank you..

First of all why are you hooking up a starter kill part of the circuit? For Antitheft purposes? You DON'T need it ! There is already an anti-theft system in the car from the factory that nobdy off the streeet can defy. Best bet: Don't connect thick GREEN wire at all -you don"t need it. As for the 2nd ignition and the 2nd starter, that doesn't matter who's first or second as long as you connect up 2 ign and 2 starter wires.thetopinstaller

Well, regardless, hopefully you do have a multimeter or at least a test light, and plan on testing each wire as you connect. Anyway, both Audiovox's and Toyota's diagrams are pretty much right. When the aftarmarket calls something "Starter 1" or "Starter 2" it's usually arbitrary.....like if I told you to open your freezer and label your two ice cube trays 1 and 2, you'd probably either choose at random, or maybe you'd start from the left, or from the top, right? Anyway, when you go to get the car apart, you will find: --There are two constant-power wires, a black and that orange mentioned by Toyota. Just that the black wire is thick, and supplied by the (I think) 30-amp AM2 fuse under the hood. The orange is very small and powered by the 5-amp AM1 fuse. Use the black for all your constant-power needs, and leave the orange alone. --There are two wires that show power in the Run and Start positions. One is a thick yellow, the other is a thin pink. Yellow is what keeps the engine running, pink is what powers the climate controls (and surely some other things). It really doesn't matter which one you choose to call Ignition 1 and Ignition 2, and to which one you connect your pink or pink/white. However, I like all my installs to be done the same exact way, just to make future troubleshooting easier. I choose to connect the pink Ignition 1 output to the car's yellow wire, and the pink/white Ignition 2 output to the car's pink wire. --There's a white wire that shows power in the Accessory and Run positions. This wire feeds the radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighter, and other non-essential items. I prefer that the radio remain off during remote start, as to not disturb the neighbors, but also so the customer can get into the car and listen to their CD or cassette where they left off when parked. But it's up to you. If you want the radio to stay off until you get in the car and turn on the key, leave the white wire untrouched. If you want everything in the car to come on during remote start, just like when starting with the key, connect your orange Accessory output to the car's white wire. --There are two wires coming from the ignition switch that show power only in the Start position. A thick blue and a small gray, these are your two starter wires. The car needs BOTH wires to get power or it won't start. Thus, if you interrupt even one of these wires (doesn't matter which one), the car won't start. I usually have the habit of cutting the thick blue wire in half, and connecting the two halves to the thick green and purple of the remote starter. Then I would use the Viper's small purple second starter output to trigger a relay, to trigger the car's second starter wire. NOTE: A customer with a 2009 RAV4 noticed something. He tested the remote starter's anti-grind feature, and found that the car's starter didn't grind, but the engine did stall and have to be restarted. I think that was because I didn't interrupt the car's small second starter wire; only the first starter wire as described above. Customer didn't think it was a big deal. Sometimes the installer will take a shortcut by cutting both starter wires in half. Then he would take the "key" side of BOTH the blue and the gray wire, connect them both straight to the Viper's green wire.........then both of the "car" sides, connected straight to the Viper's purple wire. This will give you functioning remote start, functioning starter kill, and functioning anti-grind, but you're in essence jumping two of the car's factory wires together at all times. This has caused no known problems, but certainly is contrary to how the car was designed. Another alternative is to get TWO relays. Use the Viper's small purple to one relay to apply power to the car's gray starter wire. Use another relay, connected to the Viper's orange starter kill output, to "kill" the car's second starter wire just like you did with the blue starter wire. That last method is the most costly and time consuming, but will give you 100% functionality and no alterations to the factory design of the car.

Chris.. PERFECT.. That is exactly what I was looking for.. I figured it was a draw with either ign1 or ign2 or the starters.. I just wanted conformation.. Like I stated, I want to do this once and not spend an entire day trouble shooting.. Anyways, plan is to cut the blue and relay and splice the gray.. My feel is that Toyota designed 2 starter wires for a reason.. don't connect together.. Good info on the Radio.. No reason to turn it on, I will leave the white one alone.. Also, I am running the Idatalink module (life saver), Pink ign sense, tie that into the yellow? Hmm.. Another thought while I am cleaning up my wiring diagram.. Parking light.. I have it setup for (-) with fuse and from what I have gotten, I simply splice it into the black wire on the HL switch (pin 18) and I am also hooking up the defroster, I believe** It is latch (viper has pulse and latch settings) And YES Test everything! Been down the road of cutting wires not tested.. And on the AC side of the house, 110 at 20amps lets you know you are alive.. :) Anyways, Thanks Man.. Your help ius very much appreciated. I plan to document the whole install and do a install step by step post..

Mike.. Thanks again.. So, I am ready to go tonight.. After I get it all installed, hook up the neg battery term, I am guessing the first thing to do is program the Idatalink with the key, Set the Viper options correctly and then.... Set the shock sensor, glass breakage sensor then test?