remote start, 2004 honda accord

Hi, I have a few questions regarding remote starters. I decided to keep it clean and have it all in one thread instead of clustering the forums and making multiple ones. So here we go. 1) Car = 2004 Honda accord ex 5mt Remote starter = viper (DEI) 5101 Question: Okay so I got my unit all hooked up and running fine, everything works, except I did not install the trunk popper,any other aux, or the rear defroster. So seeing a few wiring diagrams, some mention I need a relay for the trunk popper and some dont mention a relay. Is one actually needed? Cant I just connect the wire to the trunk popper wire that is used by the OEM system? Also for the rear window defroster. Most diagrams I've found didn't have the wiring color or location for this, what should I be looking for on the fuse diagrams when finding it, or does anyone know it. Also is anything else needed to hook this up? The aux outputs supply a current of 200ma , and the manual says I need a relay or diode? How hard would this be to hook up. Another question is , with my aux outputs, I have 4 i believe, what else could I connect this to. I have heated seats and heated mirrors, is this possible? And I was thinking my stereo since I forget to turn down my music sometimes and I would not want to annoy my neighbours with my music when I remote start my car. That's it for questions specifically regarding my Honda accord. Now I have some questions I have about a future install on a toyota. (Sorry for so many questions) Car 2004 & 2007 Toyota Camry SE automatic. Remote starter : Viper 5301 & viper 5501 Questions: I've read about a t-harness and its suppose to help reduce time on the install. Is it strictly an ignition harness? which will help reduce the splicing on 5-6 wires? Is it worth it to get the harness or should I just stock to splicing and soldering. The only thing I can see this thing being useful is so you dont butcher your oem harness. Your personal opinion, would you use one , yes or no? Another question is, I know im going to have to connect the factory alarm disarm wire to avoid the alarm going off, but what about the factory arm wire? Does this pretty much rearm the alarm when I lock the doors with the RS key fob? Last question ( i promise :) ) , I was thinking of getting a one of the bypass modules for hte car, the xk05 i believe it is called. How exactly does this work, does it make the install easier? and how so, how many wires do i need to hook up and if i understand how it works ... it uses the factory alarm wires or something? So i wont have to install door triggers, locks , immobilizer by pass etc? Sorry for so many questions. But thanks to who ever puts the time to answers them :)

----HONDA ACCORD----- Trunk release: Yes, it's a high-current positive wire, so you do need a relay, wired as follows: 87 and 85: Fused constant power 87a: no connection 86: RED / white trunk release wire from Viper 30: This goes to the YELLOW /GREEN trunk release wire in the driver's kick panel. There are several wires the same color....test carefully to get the one that makes a positive signal when you release the trunk with the factory remote. Defroster: Never hooked it up on an Accord, but I think I heard somewhere about a brown wire before...try the search feature here. Radio: Did you hook up the WHITE/ black second-accessory wire at the car's ignition switch wiring? There's no need. Disconnect it, and then the radio will stay off during remote start. ------2004 and 2007 Camry SE------ Alarm arm and disarm: Did you test for a factory alarm? Only the XLE gets a factory-installed alarm. The SE could have a dealer-installed Toyota alarm but it's not likely. Bypass module: Supposedly the XK05 has been improved, but at least in its original configuration, it's the most installer-unfriendly choice for that car. Look into the Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-SL2, KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL, or any of the ADS modules from idatalink.com.. T-harness: I've heard that Bulldog makes, or used to make, T-harnesses to connect Bulldog remote starters to certain cars, but I've never used one.

Chris Luongo wrote: ----HONDA ACCORD----- Trunk release: Yes, it's a high-current positive wire, so you do need a relay, wired as follows: 87 and 85: Fused constant power 87a: no connection 86: RED / white trunk release wire from Viper 30: This goes to the YELLOW /GREEN trunk release wire in the driver's kick panel. There are several wires the same color....test carefully to get the one that makes a positive signal when you release the trunk with the factory remote. Defroster: Never hooked it up on an Accord, but I think I heard somewhere about a brown wire before...try the search feature here. Radio: Did you hook up the WHITE/ black second-accessory wire at the car's ignition switch wiring? There's no need. Disconnect it, and then the radio will stay off during remote start. ------2004 and 2007 Camry SE------ Alarm arm and disarm: Did you test for a factory alarm? Only the XLE gets a factory-installed alarm. The SE could have a dealer-installed Toyota alarm but it's not likely. Bypass module: Supposedly the XK05 has been improved, but at least in its original configuration, it's the most installer-unfriendly choice for that car. Look into the Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-SL2, KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL, or any of the ADS modules from idatalink.com.. T-harness: I've heard that Bulldog makes, or used to make, T-harnesses to connect Bulldog remote starters to certain cars, but I've never used one.

Hey, For the relay, I've never worked with relays before (im still learning :) ) , anyways is there a specific relay that is needed? Im hoping to order one soon but since Im still new to the scene, i might need some help on what specific relay I need to order. Thanks. Also for hte radio, it works, I have an aftermarket unit in the car also. But my main question was if i could hook it up to an auxiliary out on the remote starter, so i can control it with my remote. Its not a big deal really, its a plus if it can be done though. As for the camry, I tried testing for the alarm again, and I dont think there is any, I believe the security light would be for the immobilizer instead. MAkes it a bit easier for me :)

kreg357 wrote: A few answers on the Toyota Camrys. The "T-Harness" is made for Bulldog products.  You could use them with the Viper R/S's but there would be some cutting & soldering to do.  Basically they connect into the cars Ignition Harness at the steering column and save time on those wires.  I have used them and they save some time but cost around $25 and are application specific.  Check the Bulldog Web site for availability:  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/Category/1020-t-harnesses.aspx The XK05 bypass will work nicely for the 2007 Camry using the 5.PKTI firmware.  That module/firmware combo is very nice, easy to install and program. The 2004 Camry is listed as needing the PKT2 firmware.  While this combo works well, the install is more difficult. Either module will perform the cars immobilizer bypass without loosing a key.  Using a bypass module will provide extra security in that you won't be hiding a key under the dash.  The bypass function is done thru data.  However you will need a special USB xkLoader cable to load the firmware onto the module.  I prefer the iDatalink modules.  Some of the iDatalink modules will handle the bypass and the door locks, trunk, alarms, etc,etc.  Here is a link to their Web site:   http://www.idatalink.com/helpdesk/ Here is a link to the DEI XK05 module:  http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=346    Check out the install guide for each car to see the wiring necessary.

Thanks for the link !! I hope it works for my car, I will have to email them about it fitting in teh camry's. Im fairly sure it does but it wont hurt to double check! As for the xk module. I think I am only going to use it in the 2007 camry, and just do a straight up install on teh 2004 . For the immobilizer programming ... how difficult would this be, something the average person can do? No special devices are needed ... is therE? And thanks for your repsonses guys! Now another question or two :D In my accord, I used a universal immobilizer by pass, it says to connect the ground to a wire that has a -ve output when the remote starter is on, for now I just grounded it, making my cars immobilizer disabled 24/7 rather than when it is remote started. Which wire provides this on the viper units. And is there an easy way to check if your car has an immobilizer or not?

Thanks for the help. I have yet more questions... For hte trunk release , if i successfully get the relay to work with it , will my oem key fob trunk release still work? And for the defroster, I thought i needed a relay ... but someone said they didnt use one? Which is confusing. Is the defroster a low current wire? enough for a 200ma current to power?

If the R/S is installed correctly, the factory FOB should still function normally.Soldering is fun!

Chris Luongo wrote: ----HONDA ACCORD----- Trunk release: Yes, it's a high-current positive wire, so you do need a relay, wired as follows: 87 and 85: Fused constant power 87a: no connection 86: RED / white trunk release wire from Viper 30: This goes to the YELLOW /GREEN trunk release wire in the driver's kick panel. There are several wires the same color....test carefully to get the one that makes a positive signal when you release the trunk with the factory remote. Defroster: Never hooked it up on an Accord, but I think I heard somewhere about a brown wire before...try the search feature here.

THANKS! the trunk release worked perfectly! Now I have another question, since the trunk release is a "-" wire on the accord, the camry has a "+" wire , I'm not good with relays so im going to assume I dont wire the the same way because I need a + output instead of the - ? How would I wire that up. Thanks Also still couldnt find the defroster, only ones i found through the search is a "+" wire, and the wire on the remote starter is a "-" , so i assume im gonna need a relay to change it to a "+" output?

I have a few more questions again :) I'm going to be doing the install on my camry soon. This is a quick question about the valet button/antenna. Usually your suppose to hide this? but then people say its suppose to go on the windshield? putting it on the windshield would increase my range? but then the valet button is right there? if it was an alarm that would be more of a problem but still is that suppose to be how it is ? Can someone explain to me when the wires give out +12v so when I test it with my dmm I use the right ones instead of just relying on a chart off the internet? When does a ignition, starter and accessory wire give off 12v. AND how do i determine which is the 1st ignition, 2nd ignition, 1st accessory , 2nd accessory etc. and for the heavy gauge harness, what exactly is the "input" wires, the ones that are the polarity feed wires. Does this just determine the polarity of the given wire output? eg, if i hook it up to a +12, it would let the remote starter know to give my output a +12v output? also the camry's have, 2 ignition, 1 accessory, and 2 starter wires. The heavy gauge harness has ... 1 ignition output, 1 accessory output, 1 starter output, then I have an extra ignition 2 output, which can be used as an ignition, starter or accessory output. Okay so Say i use it as the ignition 2 output. Now i am short 1 starter wire? Am I right? how would I get the extra starter wire? The only thing I can think of is to connect the 2 starter wires on the harness and connect it to the single starter output wire ... but I dont think that is safe and there is a proper way ? thanks