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python 991 for 2000 honda passport


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sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 28, 2010 at 8:35 PM / IP Logged  
Hi I'm trying to match the wiring of my new Python 991 to my 2000 Honda Passport. Im new to relays.
Passport has wires that say Ign 1 and Ign 2.
Python   has Ign1 Input/output
        and Ign1 Input (30A)
Passport has Accesory 1
Python   has Accesory output
        and Accesory/Starter relay input (30A)
Passport has Starter 1
Python   has Starter Output
        and Starter Input
Python also has 87 flex relay input fused
            and 30 flex relay output
            and 87a flx relay input
I need a complete matching wiring please. Cuz I also need H2 harness, 18pin connector help and H1 12 pin connector. Thank you very much
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 29, 2010 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged  
I know nothing about Python, but your inputs are there for polarity. In other words, since you are feeding an ignition that is 12 volts you need to connect the inputs to a 12 volt source(the constant 12 volt at the ignition switch). Use your flex relay as the second ignition, be sure to program accordingly...
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  
I did some research. Please somebody correct me if Im wrong or agrre if Im right thanks.
Main Harness (H1) 12-pin connector
H1/1 (-) 200mA AUX/TRUNK output == Is this for trunk release? Mine is manual do I need this wire?
H1/2 (+) 12vdc == Any constant +12v
H1/3 (+) siren Output == Is this for the (+)siren wire and the other siren wire (-)to groung chasis?
H1/4 Parking Light Isolation wire == N / A
H1/5 (-) Chasis ground == Anywhere at chasis.
H1/6 (+) Door trigger input == N / A. Mine is (-)
H1/7 (-) Trunck pin / Instant trigger input == To the trunk door switch (green wire by glove box).
H1/8 (-) Door trigger input == RED / green wire by kick panel white plug.
H1/9 (-) Dome light output == to single pole relay pin 85, +12v + 5A fuse to pin 86, groung to pin 87 and door triger wire (RED / green)to pin 30.
H1/10 (-) Remote star / Turbo timer input == Is this for turbo charge cars?
H1/11 Parking light output == To parking light wire.
H1/12 (-)500mA ground when armed output == Only if you have window closers like "530T window automation system" right?
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
Door lock, 3-pin connector
1 blue (-) 500mA Unlock output == To unlock wire (RED / blue) kick panel.
2 empty   N / A
3 green (-) 500mA lock output == To lock wire (light GREEN/ red) kick panel.
I see I need (-) pulse on the wire to work. Do I need diodes with the stripe on the 991 side or car side?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
Answering your 2nd post, remember we don't have this unit or vehicle in Europe.
H1/1 Yes
H1/2 Yes
H1/3 Yes for Siren, other siren wire triggers factory horn, either directly or via a relay, NOT chassis ground (bang + smoke).
H1/4 Correct
H1/5 Use an M6 bolt (10mm spanner size) at the kick panel area.
H1/6 Correct
H1/7 Correct
H1/8 Correct
H1/9 If your dome light comes on when door is unlocked BEFORE opening, not needed. Otherwise correct.
H1/10 Correct, not needed.
H1/11 Correct.
H1/12 Correct.
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged  
H2 Harness, 18-pin connector
H2/1 (-) 200mA alarm disarm output == To factory alarm disarm wire (yellow/blue).
H2/2 (-) 200mA AUX 4 output == N/A
H2/3 (-) 200ma alarm arm output == To factory alarm arm wire (purple).
Extra (1)? Do I need to arm and disarm factory alarm. The thing is I don't wanna hear the horn sound every time I arm and disarm the factory alarm. I just wanna hear the siren chirp. Are the two alarms going to be arm at the same time?
H2/4 N/A
H2/5 N/A
H2/6 N/A
H2/7 Disel wait == N/A
H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn honk output == I don't wanna use the horn. If I don't use this wire. Can I still hear the chirp on the siren arm and disarm sounds.
H2/9 Tachometer input == to tach wire (BLACK/ red) driver kick 22 pin plug.
H2/10 (-) 200mA Status Output == No Idea ??
H2/11 (-) flex relay control output == No Idea ??
H2/12 (-) 200mA accesory output == No Idea ??
H2/13 (-) 200mA starter output == No Idea ??
H2/14 (-) 200mA ignition 1 output
H2/15 (-) Hood pin input == Safety switch to hood pin wire.
H2/16 (-) 200mA 2nd status / rear defoger output == Is it going to a relay? pin 85, then 12v + fuse xAmp?, ground 87 and rear defoger wire pin 30.
H2/17 (+) brake shutdown input == To red wire on the brake switch.
H2/18 (-) Neutral safety input == No idea ??
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you very much for a very very fast answer.
So for the siren I use H1/3 (+) siren output and H2/8 (-) 200mA horn honk output right.
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 06, 2010 at 6:40 PM / IP Logged  
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1   (+) Ignition 1 input/output == To ignition 1 wire (BLACK / YELLOW) right?
H3/2   (+) pin87 flex relay input (30A fused) == To any +12v constant wire right?
H3/3   (+) accesory output == to accesoty wire (blue) right?
H3/4   (+) starter output (car side of the starter kill) == to ( BLACK/ white) wire
H3/5   (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) == I don't understand which one is car side or key side. Is the same color wire?
H3/6    Ignition 1 Input (30A fused) == To any +12v constant right?
H3/7    pin30 flex relay output == to ignition 2 wire (BLACK/ red) right?
H3/8    pin87a flex relay input == N/A right?
H3/9    accesory/sarter relay input (30A fused) == To any +12v constant right?
H3/10    No connection == N/A
So Can I use a +12v for all the red wires? which wires should I protect with a diode? only outputs?
There is also a "Light flash plarity (10A (maximum)fuse jumper" + - I don't know how to use it.
Thank you very much to everybody who helped me. And thanks for everybody who wants to help me. Fist time installer. Love electronics.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 07, 2010 at 2:34 AM / IP Logged  
I think you are going to need a lot more LOCAL professional help than I can give you from 4000 miles away. As an example, horn honk doesn't just go to the horn wire! You have to test at steering column, does it need a relay? etc. Yes you will need to disarm factory alarm if present, you will need a by-pass, you have at least an 2nd ignition to think about on Hondas.
Your question about H3/4 and 5, read the instructions.
Use ALL the fused wires, join at the ignition feed constant, where or why do you think you need diode protection?
sape33 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2010
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: September 11, 2010 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged  
OK. I got all the Remote Start (H3) 10-pin connector wiered.
I almost have all the main harness (H1) 12-pin concector.
When I tested the (-)door trigger input wire in my car it's (-) when I open any of the 4+1(trunk) doors EXEPT the hood. But I also used the (-)trunk pin instant trigger.
1. Can I switch the (-)trunk pin instatn trigger to the hood and leave the trunk switch to be activated by the all door trigger wire.
2. Or maybe the OEM hood switch is not working.
3. Is the H2/15 (-)hood pin input (n/c or n/o) only for remote starter safety? Does it trigger the alarm also?
Because if the H2/15 is to trigger the alarm also. Then I can take my time finding a good hood pin to replase the OEM switch.
4 Where does the (-) neutral safety input wire go to?
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