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viper 5701, 2006 toyota corolla


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ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 04, 2010 at 2:04 AM / IP Logged  
I used to have a 2002 Chevy and the key "computer chip" was ONLY a 18k ohm resistor...   
Is that basically the same situation in the bulldog bypass 791? Does the bypass 791 just make the connections through the resistor? This 2006 corolla only came with 1 key and I been meaning to get more...
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 04, 2010 at 6:10 AM / IP Logged  

The Toyota Corolla uses a transponder type immobilizer system.  The 2002 Chevy you mentioned probably used GMs' PassLock resistor based immobilizer system.  They are very different.  The Bulldog 791 bypass module can do either type system ( as detailed in the 791 install guide ), but...

As you only have one working key, you can't use the Bulldog 791 or any "Key in the Box" bypass and hide your only key under the dash.  Fortunately, the PKALL will program to your car with only one key ( some cars / bypasses require 2 working keys, like Fords ).  Your remote start will work and you still have your key.

Just a bit of info for you.  While it is expensive, I would go to a Toyota Dealer and get another key cut and programmed to the car.  If you lose your only working key, the cars computer must be replaced ( or re-flashed ).  Much more expensive than getting a spare key now. 

Soldering is fun!
ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 04, 2010 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
yes sir I agreed with you.
This morning I ordered the bulldog 791 and an extra key off ebay (CHEAP)
To program and cut the key it will be an extra $65
I regret it now but I went with the bulldog 791 cause I thought the DEI PKALL was going to temporarily require 2 keys? (Still not sure on that one)
I installed almost all wires today (I worked from 1pm - 5pm? The H1, H2, H3, RS OUT wires are WAY too long and the RS IN is way too short.
I'm finding bits of a previous alarm that wasnt really hooked up.. I dont know if its factory or aftermarket but it doesnt have markings like an aftermarket would. I'm wondering if there is already a 791 up in there somewhere?
They put the factory fuse box in THE WORST POSITION!! I think I nearly had a stroke having to check all my fuses today.
I'm still not sure on alot of wires so thats what my next post is going to be: specific wire questions
Thanks again!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 04, 2010 at 8:22 PM / IP Logged  

The Bulldog 791 is a black box a little larger than a pack of cigarettes.  If you had one previously installed, there should be an antenna ring around the outer edge of the ignition cylinder with a pair of wires go back to the 791 module. 

The PKALL will program with only one working key.  It is something to think about doing in the future.  Having a working key hidden under the dash is a liability.  Be carefull if you get the PKALL off EBay.  The PKALL can only be programmed once, so make sure it is NIB, un-used and guaranteed to work.

Soldering is fun!
ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 04, 2010 at 9:22 PM / IP Logged  
wow thats important information! I try to only order from the top rated sellers for reasons like that (oddly enough the people I bought the viper from were top rated yet the wires on the H3 were ALL scrambled around and they labeled it as Remanufactured yet when I got the box it said Refurbished! Huge difference!)
I bought the viper for the brand image... at the time I didnt know of any better competitors and didnt have an account to like, consumer reports.com
I didnt really get the viper for security, I wanted the Rem Start for my baby. Badass security is just a cool addition to the Rem Start! This one is for my wife's car. Soon I will buy one for my car and I'll try to get the DEI PKALL.
I was scared because the PKALL looked like more wires than the 791 haha
ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 10, 2010 at 11:58 PM / IP Logged  
Nobody has anything to comment on my well laid out wiring diagrams that I have put together at the bottom of page 2?
Its only the rough draft but I hope it will help future users
I have my 791 and am attempting to hook it up but I have yet to receive my extra key I ordered this last monday... (its all I lack)
ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 13, 2010 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  
I'm finding discrepancies in my factory wiring vs websites like:
bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
I'm trying to hook up my 791 bypass:
According to this website: bulldogsecurity.com   - 791 bypass
I only have to hook up 3 wires. The red to 12v+, the Orange to ground, and the blue (negative, input) to what I think is on the viper (rs status out, negative) and I think I need to put a diode between it to make sure I dont get feedback from the vehicle?
thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 13, 2010 at 10:33 PM / IP Logged  

There are always differences between the wiring guides.  Bulldog is usually close, AudioVox a little worse, Directwire is very good but for dealers only.  Remember these are only guides.  Always test and verify with a Digital Multi Meter.

You can temporarily put your key in the 791 to see if it remote starts.  If the Vipers' (-) Status Output is only going to the 791s' Blue wire, no diode is needed.  Only the 3 wires you listed are required.

Wiring Comments:

First Picture -  All wires listed, red, red, RED / white & RED / black need +12v constant.  A 15A source might be insuficiant.    H3/8 is not used and gets insulated.    Keysense is usually only needed if the car has a factory alarm.  If  you want to connect it, use the Vipers (-) 200 mA Second Status Output at Remote Start Input 5 pin connector, Blue/White wire at pin 5.

Second Picture -  H1/11 - set Viper jumper to (-) and attach to cars (-) parking light wire at light switch.    Domelight supervision.  If unlocking your car with the factory remote turns on the dome light, you don't  need this connection.

Third Picture - OK

Fourth Picture - Too small to read.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 13, 2010 at 10:45 PM / IP Logged  

If your car is an automatic, you must change the Viper's' default programming.  Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2.  Also the Neutral Safety Switch wire should be connected to chassis ground.

If you are going to connect the tach wire you must change Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4.   Then you must do a Tach Learn process before you can try a remote start.  ( Running in Tach mode is the most reliable way to get the car started. )

Soldering is fun!
ezrollin 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 15, 2010 at 12:28 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry I dont know where I got that my parking light system is the ( + ) system. I dont know if I found it somewhere in the car's electrical schematic? I couldnt find it anywhere..
Thanks for all the info, that is definately needed!!
I'm scared to hook it up until I'm sure I've got everything right
I'll try uploading # 4 again:
viper 5701, 2006 toyota corolla - Page 3 -- posted image.
Page of 4

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