ford door locks and alarm

Howie,   Does that apply to the starter interrupt relay as well? This starter interrupt relay is like an after thought to the whole alarm set-up. it is external with it's own relay adapter plug and 4 wires. 2 large gauge wires that are spliced into the ignition starter wire. 1 wire that picks a 12V feed and a (-) trip wire that goes to the alarm module. The example I've seen on this web site show's a starter interrupt relay with this diode across the coil connections of the relay. This is what I was questioning. Should I add a diode across the coil terminals or assume there is one on the PCB in the control module. This is totally separate from the lock issue. Dave

your door lock problem sound slike it might be fords sleep mode! after a set period of time the door lock switches fail to work, but the factory keyless will( kinda like a protection mode for prohibiting entry)does your alarm have a domelight supervision output?if not try adding a relay off your unlock wire tie pin 86 to wire that goes to your unlock(pink/green wire)while still kepping it attached to the pink/green, pin 85 to ground, pin 87 to constant 12 volts, pin 30 to your drivers door pin switch wire( blue/bk in left kick) then when you hit unlock on your remote it will pulse the domelight so the bcm thinks a oor opened and will return the lock switches to working

Sorry, yes you should, wired as follows: Cut starter wire. Key side to 87a Starter side to 30 Ignition* to 86 "Trip"- correct name is GWA, or armed - output to 85 Diode (1N4004) across the coil, band side to 86 *Hot when ignition on AND whilst cranking (starting).

Hunter, Yeah, Howie and I were thinking that also, But here;s the thing. This 1997 Ford E-150 is not suppose to have one of those GEM "wake-up" modules. But, I had to replace the Keyless entry module because the locks weren't working at all. Before the alarm installation all locks were working, Key FOB and door switches. Now the only thing I can think of is the OEM keyless module I got from the salvage yard was a different year that worked OK under normal conditions but incorperated a wake-up circuit that my Van isn't wired for. Or is the dome light BLACK/ blue wire the wire that wakes this OEM keyless module up? The alarm I have, has a dome light supervision wire. It's a 200mA (-) output from the alarm. The first alarm module I had, I didn't have a signal on this wire. I tested this wire when I had this module installed and there was a signal. The manual also says to connect this wire through a relay. But it didn;t seem to make a difference. In the doors of this van there are door handle switches, so if you pull a little on the door handle of the front doors the interior lights come on. The lights are on a timer, 12 sec or something and then go out. These switches are working normally. With the alarm installed and when it goes into lock switches not working mode, the door switches will turn the lights on but not unlock the doors. Without the alarm connected under normal conditions operating the door lock switches do not come on. I don't think there suppose to, it doesn't make sense. OK, just a little more info for you guys. hey Hunter, thanks for jumping in. Dave

Howie, The way they say to wire this relay. This relay is tripped when the vehicle is armed. This disconnects poles 87a and 30 ( starter won't turn when armed. pole 86 gets constant 12V. pole 85 is the (-) trip signal that comes from the alarm. We on the same track here? So I would connect the diode across 85 and 86 with the band toward 86 with the constant 12v ??

Hi, I read my post and I see there might be some confusion as to what I'm trying to say about by door switches, There are outside door handle switches within the door, These turn on the interior lights when you try and pull the outside door handle. If you don't open the doors the lights stay on for 12 sec or so. Then there are the interior door lock switches, these operate the door locks. So to clear this up. When the alarm puts the door lock switches into "NO WORK" mode. When you try the interior door lock switches, the doors DO NOT unlock but the interior lights come on. It doesn't matter if the Doors are physically open or shut. When the Alarm is disconnected, and the door lock switches are operating normally the interior light do not come on, as there suppose to work.

Who said wire a constant to 86? Bloody not me! Read my post again! IGNITION to 86 fool. Wire a constant to 86 and that relay will be engaged ALL THE TIME THE ALARM IS ON. 1.3amps constant draw. Flat battery over night. Bloody amateurs not reading properly are the cause of more posts on this site than anything else.

Howie, Your correct, the yellow from the relay socket (pin 86) is connected to the Ignition switch wire that has 12V when the "ignition is on and while cranking". Sorry ! Can't see the forest because of the trees. remember that old saying. I'll double check that again to see if I was in dream land when I was connecting that one. Anything is possible at this stage. Thanks Dave

Howie, You had me thinking. I had to put my coat on and go out and double check. Pin 86 is on the ignition wire that shows 12V while on and in cranking. But, I don't have the diode installed. Since the instructions don't show a diode across the coil and the company didn't supply or install one, In your opinion, should I put one in. It won't hurt if I do, right? Dave

Hi all, This alarm "Camco RS-750" same as Carvox CX2300 series has an option of 2-pulse door unlock sequence. It appears that it uses the same on-board relays to supply the voltage to lock and unlock the doors. But the alarm module has an extra small gauge blue wire that is wired into a relay to supply the voltage to either open the drivers door on pulse 1 or open the rest of the doors on pulse 2. I doesn't say how it's suppose to be wired to open just the drivers door or the rest of the doors. It does but tells you 2 different ways in the directions. I guess the only way to find out is program it for 2 pulse system and test the wires before I connect them. If the sun is shinning tomorrow that's one of the first things I'm going to try. Also to hook up the dome light supervision wire threw a relay to turn the dome light on and see if that solves my problem with the interior door/lock switches going dead. Thanks, Dave