car cranks but no start after alarm setup

updates folks... Last night, I re-checked all the relevant fuses and they are all good. I was able to measure about 12 volts at the fuel pump fuse when ON. I also got voltage at the fuel pump relay but could not hear the fuel pump. This morning, I removed the cover under the rear seat to expose the fuel sender shield. Then after that I removed the shield to expose the connectors. I was gonna test the connectors but they kind'a look difficult to unhook. So I thought I'd do the start sequence again to see if I could hear the pump better. Now, I can hear the pump for about 5 seconds when ON (or so it seems). The sound is very faint though so I am still not sure (hopefully it wasn't the CD player looking for a CD). Later, I'm gonna have my wife turn ON the car for me so I could put my ear very close to the pump. I'm almost positive though as the sounds seems to stop at the same time that the fuel pump relay "clicks" (I felt it with my hand). If I confirm that the fuel pump makes a sound, is it safe to say that it's not a fuel problem? I am going to check for spark next. I still need to do some more research as I have not done that before and I have no idea how to do it in daylight. Any tips would be appreciated (preferably with just one person testing). Thanks!

Though of pulling the pipe off either the end of the fuel pump or up on the engine bay to see if it's actually shoving any gas through?

I'll try to trace the fuel line if I could find a tire-like valve somewhere to see if it squirts fuel. I actually opted not to do the fuel filter replacement myself since it seemed to messy, but if I have no choice, I'll unplug the tank side.

that's called the fuel pump priming. it primes when you first turn the key then turns off until the car starts then it's on constantly......... Why would you need the pump pushing fuel to the rail if the car is not on?A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Thanks Z I wasn't sure of the sequence, I also thought modern fuel injected engines used that primer as a start-enrichment device delivering fuel under high pressure, then cut out or down when tach was sensed, maybe I was wrong.

I've been in this situation before. Car starts before I worked on it and doesn't afterward. I feel your pain on both sides. I was a master mechanic long before an installer. So I think you should go back to the starter fluid into the airhorn (or air filter box) trick. It sounds like yoiu already established you have fuel pressure so check for spark. If the car attempts to start after you spray starting fluid (not B-B-Q starter) then you do have spark.thetopinstaller

Ok updates... Today I finally got a chance to check for spark. I inserted a test light (Lisle 20610) in between spark plug #1 and the plug wire (it's a V6 with firing sequence of 1-2-3-4-5-6). I didn't get any light at all during cranking. I also tried changing to a brand-new wire, still no joy. If you guys think that test wasn't enough, should I try testing with a brand-new plug grounded directly to battery (like if old plug is fouled up and can't close the circuit)? So it seems that at this point, we have fuel (or at least it's pumping fuel) but no spark. The ignition (I imagine) is connected this way: primary starter wire -> brain 2nd starter wire is still uncut (connected like factory) ignition -> brain There shouldn't be a problem if the 2 starter wires go different ways, right (2nd is direct or factory default, primary goes thru brain)? I assume this is not any different from the previous alarm where the primary wire is connected thru a (starter kill) relay, is it? Anyway, I'll investigate the spark a little bit more if I can check for power along the route before the plug wires.

Is there a tach wire for the remote start that is connected to the distributor?Nissan Master Tech.

mpe235 wrote: Is there a tach wire for the remote start that is connected to the distributor?

The installer said he needed the engine running to find where the tach wire is. Since the engine could not start, I assume the status of the tach wire is whatever it was when the Audiovox PRO9232 was still there (which, if the 9232 didn't need it, then it's likely that the tach wire is still factory connected). But i'm just guessing here.

I didnt hook up the tach wire because I need the engine running to verify the wire. The Audiovox alarm doesnt have a tach wire. A tach wire hook up is only for remote starters.