big job planned, 1996 chevy tahoe

1996 Chevy tahoe 4x4 Planning a big G5 alarm and convenience sytem to go in next month. I will have the main alarm, intellistart and smart windows as well as a host of other options. Here are some questions. 1. Since the modules have supply have a seperate 12v+ input feeds to run there outputs is it not feasable for each unit's high current power input to to tap and solder into it equivalant power supply wire into the vehicle harnesss since there are not increasing the load on existing wires? Merely just switching it on a different path. For example intellistart 2 power feeds will tap into the two ignition switch feeds-parking lights flasher feed into the headlight switch main feed and so forth. Trying to avoid installing a battery fed fuse panel for for it all right now. 2. has anybody ever been able to extend the data link cable between the modules 2-3x longer then original without ill effects so the modules can be further seperated by distance and still communicate? 3. Will the smartwinwindows G4 comlink with the G5 units? Need a confirmation on this. They should but I have talked to installers who cannot give a definite answer cause they find cliffords to complicated to even want to install. 4. If the rpm-based door autolock function is enabled will it only lock after the initial start and drive-off or every time that it detect a door has been opened and closed? 5. I have the 520t backup-battery so will it be strong enough to run the three controller constant 12v cpu feeds or if I have to use the battery on just the main cpu how will it deal with with the comlink loss off start and windows modules? Does it actually check the data path for existance of the modules each time there is data to be move from one to the other? Or if vehicle power supply is severed will the main cpu logicly lock-up and cease to function cortectly it own functions becuase two mudules dropped offline? 6. I have a medalion siren from a G4 bullet. Can that be used on the optional siren wires from the main cpu in addition to the smart siren or do I have to have the the newer 518c neo siren? Anyone have a manual on the neo unit? Was going to use the second siren inside the vehicle. 7. With this and stereo equipment w/nav, sat-radio and bluetooth models added on and some other electrical stuff to go in has anybody some creative ideas to find room for all this stuff in a tahoe. The backseat and pasenger front unders will already be occupied with an dual down- firing sub box and amp respectively. The glove box and overhaead console will also be used for sensorsor modules as well. Or is it benificial to put the sub box in the cargo area. How about a creative electrical grid and electronics base in the cargo area covered by a newly formed supprorted floor with ventalation. I don't mind loosing a few inches of vertical height back there or is that pushing it to far. Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.

1) Yes as long as you go to the battery input sides. If in doubt a 100amp fused 06 gauge from the battery to a multipoint fuse box would be a good alternative. 2) Yes, I've gone to over 6 feet, the UK Cat 1 Cliffords come with Wiz fly-leads, 3 core, just use the outer two and solder together or bell wire. 3) Yes, done it though I prefer to use the 530t. 4) Only on the initial instance though I prefer it to straight ignition lock. 5) Use to ONLY run the 5 amp lead. What controller? I can't think of one with 3 power leads? Ideally the I/Start 3 leads + ground should go straight to the battery. 6) If the Medalion was a SPEAKER, i.e. 2 plain black wires, then no. 7) I haven't a bloody clue it's your problem and all part of the fun, I don't even know what a Tahoe is, the only Chevys we see in Europe apart from 'vettes are the awful Daewoo product.

By controllers I meant each of the modules. I know I can only do the modules power supplies just wondering if I could do all 3 on the one back-up unit. I know th SW4 can run off the same fuse as main unit for several years. The feeds for the high current feeds like parking light flasher, I/S and SW4 still feed off the vehicle battery which won't matter if it is killed and alarm trigers anyway. Here is what a Chevy tahoe SUV from 1996 looks like. HAd two option as well.

No, only run the 5 amp alarm CPU fuse off it, unsafe otherwise. Funnily enough I was just perusing the Wiki site, realised it was the good old Blazer, the sunshine (whatever that is) in your photo made me laugh because the last time I worked on one was in Florida in 1982, big job and got heat stroke into the bargain

Thanks. They dumped the blazer name in 1995. I am glad.