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birdinstalls 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: April 16, 2011
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: April 17, 2011 at 2:54 PM / IP Logged  

With a working key it does the same thing. I am aware of the Sentra key immobilizer installed but had planned on mounting a uncut programmed sentra key right by the ingnition tumbler.

I am really trying to do this as cheap (being a broke college student) as possibly while learning at the same time. I am really confused about the door triggers and locks but planned on figureing that out later.

Will that relay circuit I found work as a bypass? Thanks for the help guys!

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,787
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 17, 2011 at 3:45 PM / IP Logged  

Well, there is a lot to learn.  There is a CM3000 install guide in the Downloads section:  Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their wiring guide :  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

If the Jeep did not remote start with the key in the ignition, but not turned, you have wiring problems, tach learn problems or something but not an immobilizer problem.

The Starter Kill / Anti-Grind circuit is optional.  Did you cut the Jeep's Yellow Starter wire at the ignition harness during your install?

The cheapest way to bypass the factory ignition immobilizer is with a relay and a "key wrap".   This will use a working key hidden under the dash but will still preserve the normal immobilizer security.  Next best way is with a DEI 556U, available "online" for less than $15 ( still need a key ).

The door locks are a pain.  Wires and relays into both doors:  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/3430_GRAND-CHEROKEE_JEEP%20GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20LOCKS.pdf  It's worth the money to get a bypass that does both the immobilizer and the door locks unless you enjoy pulling door panels off a 7 year old vehicle and wiring up a bunch of relays...

Soldering is fun!
birdinstalls 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: April 16, 2011
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: April 17, 2011 at 4:55 PM / IP Logged  

I am at work and can't look at the PFD's on this computer but thanks for the link. I have been going off the same wiring diagram given it just did not give the links to the diagrams.

I did not cut the yellow starter wire but have read a little about it from the CM 3000 guide. I just hooked up the Pin# 6 (yellow) directly into the yellow starter wire.

This is what my diagram says:

Pin #6: Yellow- This wire is the (+) Starter output. This is pre-wired to

the starter-kill relay for ease of installation. At the starter-kill relay you
will see a yellow and yellow/black. These wires are used to interrupt the
starter wire in the vehicle. You will need to cut the starter wire in half
and connect the wire accordingly: Yellow/Black will connect to the key
side and the yellow will connect to the motor side (starter side).

Now I think about it the violet wire was wired to a relay going into a accessory on pin # 2 (not 100% of the configuration) but I think it led to constant. I will do some research unless someone know a configuration to achieve this. :)  

birdinstalls 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: April 16, 2011
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: April 18, 2011 at 7:19 PM / IP Logged  
Called the compustar support and had it starting in 2 minutes.
The battery had died in the car I pulled it out of. He said this was the problem. After holding I and II and pressing III (3 times) she started like a charm.
Thanks guys
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